Via ferrata Archives - The Best Viewpoints

May 5, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Germany – Zugspitze

I don’t know if it was the intention of the Germans, but the name of the mountain Zugspitze corresponds to reality. Zug means train and it indicates that it is possible to get to the top completely without using energy thanks to a cable car. Unfortunately. Zugspitze is a beautiful mountain with perfect views, but the amount of tourists going up is spoiling the atmosphere. What is the best way to reach the top without taking the cable car? This article will give you all necessary information before your visit including guidelines, a map and my own experience.

Important information for climbing Germany’s highest mountain

Short description of the ascent from Partnach: Steep and long climb using via ferrata
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear. Via ferrata equipment not necessary for all routes.
Best time to visit: June - September 
Fees or restrictions: Yes, fee to enter Partnach gorge (check current prices)
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: On the top in Münchner Haus
Best accommodation at starting point: Hotel Staudacherhof in Garmisch-Partenkirchen or hotel Eibsee nearby cable car to Zugspitze
Height of the peak: 2962 m 
Hiking distance: 19.4 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Zugspitze: 7-12 hours up, 4-6 hours back
Elevation climbed: 2280 m
Water availability on the mountain: Many huts (Bockhütte, Reintalanger, Knorr and Münchner Haus) on the way
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Aecht Schlenkerla ***** (6 stars maximum)

The best routes to Zugspitze

From Partnach Gorge: This route is long but beautiful and with a minimum of other tourists. It starts at the Partnach Gorge near Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The beginning is wonderful since it leads via a deep gorge along the river Partnach. Be aware that you have to pay a small fee to enter the gorge (check current prices). The next part until Reintal is going gently up on small roads. From there you are in an alpine paradise with fantastic views and a minimum of other tourists. The trail leads to the Reintalanger Hut, a mountain hut where hikers can rest and refresh. From there, the route continues up via Knorrhütte to the Schneeferner glacier where a via ferrata starts. The last part is the steepest but the via ferrata is just level A so it isn’t hard to reach the top of Zugspitze. We will take a deeper look at this route in this article.
From Hammersbach: The Hammersbach route is the most popular route to reach Zugspitze without a cable car. The route is named after the village Hammersbach near its starting point. The trail passes through beautiful forests first and then continues via the deep valley Höllentalklam. During the hike there are two huts. You can visit Höllentaleingangshütte, where you can take a break before going up the Höllentalklam and there is also the Höllentalanger Hut just before the steepest part. The last ascent to the Zugspitze goes via a glacier and steep via ferrata level C where it is recommended to have a helmet and via ferrata set.
From Ehrwald: There is also an option to climb to Zugspitze from Austria. This route starts in the village of Ehrwald in Austria. The beginning of the hike is easy but it continues later with steep terrain and via ferrata level A and B. Approximately halfway you can take a break at Wiener-Neustädter Hut. From there, the trail becomes even steeper as it approaches the Zugspitzplatt, a high plateau beneath the Zugspitze summit. The final section involves an ascent to the summit, which may include some exposed and challenging terrain.

Map of the best route to Zugspitze

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Germany – Zugspitze

Germany and its highest peak Zugspitze was another stop on my expedition European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I took an epic train ride to Germany from Innsbruck. The train tracks led through a beautiful alpine landscape. In addition to this beauty there was a thunderstorm, so the mountains were even more dramatic. When I arrived in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (also called Ga-Pa), the change in the weather took its toll. The temperature dropped by 20 degrees, and I started to freeze quickly in my shorts.

It was great that my booked hotel was nearby. After 15 minutes of walking I got to the most beautiful accommodation of the whole journey so far. The hotel looked like a castle, no exaggeration. And even the staff behaved according to that. I got some champagne as a proper welcome, and after the formalities was welcomed to a beautiful room. I did not hesitate and immediately jumped into the soft bed.

Hotel room in Ga-Pa — *My room in the castle hotel*

After half an hour of relaxing, Björn, a friend of mine, arrived and timed his arrival just for a prepared dinner. I pulled out the most decent clothes I had (shorts and a short-sleeved T-shirt) and set out to test the 5-course Bavarian dinner. Such dinners could be more often on my table during my whole expedition. Thanks a lot hotel Staudacherhof who supported me on my trip and offered me this amazing dinner and room on my trip to Zugspitze!

Partnach route to Zugspitze

After an unusually long sleep, we headed for breakfast where we finally started to plan our summit to Zugspitze. You can get to the top in several ways (as described above). Unfortunately, the simplest option, namely taking the cable car, is used by most people. My opinion, however, is that cable cars are enemies of the mountains, so this way was not possible. Another and for me the most appealing option was the shortest but the steepest route via ferrata from Hammersbach. Unfortunately, this route was not suitable due to unfavorable weather forecasts. It isn’t the smartest choice to climb the rocks in the rain. In the end we decided for the easiest but longest walking route which is 21 km long hike directly from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Zugspitze with an elevation of 2000 m.

We headed out at 11 a.m. and the maps suggested that the journey would take 10 hours. We were supposed to be at the top just before sunset. The journey began above my expectations. At first, I was disappointed that I had to pay 5 EUR admission for some ravine, but after the entry I did not regret it for a minute. Honestly, this gorge is even more interesting and dramatic than the famous Caminito del Rey (which I saw in Spain). A wild river modeled a deep rocky canyon. The dramatic image of the morning was amplified by the morning thunderstorm, so the water not only flowed in the river but was also dripping everywhere from the peaks of the rocks. I give my warmest compliments to the trail builders for what they have managed to create for tourists here.

The Partnach Gorge in rainy weather — *The Partnach Gorge is gorgeous*

Heavy rains are not fun

After this marvelous introduction, a long, and a bit boring period came with almost zero elevation meters. In order to not get too bored, nature prepared a heavy rain for us. At that moment we longed only after a hut, where we could hide and get some energy. But it occurred not earlier than after 10 long km… We came to the Bockhütte Hut completely soaked. The mood was improved as late as when we filled the tank in form of a local dark wheat beer. Simply perfect. I wish that brewers in Czech Republic and Sweden visited Bavaria and learned to brew this luxurious beer.

Simply amazing Weizenbier on the way to Zugspitze — *Simply amazing Weizenbier*

From this hut the nature started to vary more and get even more beautiful. The woods began to thin and we began to enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding peaks of the German Alps.

River in German Alps — *Our last break before ascend*

Clouds slowly getting lower in German Alps — *Clouds slowly getting lower*

The hike was getting more and more beautiful the higher we were getting but unfortunately it was also very long for Björn who lost all his energy. I helped him with his backpack for the last 5 km and we reached the Knorr hut under the Zugspitze in complete fog.

Recharging energy at Knorrhütte

We sat down in the restaurant and ordered a warm goulash soup and a beer. We refilled energy and started discussions about the upcoming day. Björn was obviously tired since he overestimated his hiking skills. Luckily, there was a solution. Now we were suddenly happy for the lifts around Zugspitze. Björn decided to take a shortcut the next day to the top by taking a cable car from Zugspitzplatt.

The next morning during sunrise it was still foggy, so we got on the road at 8 o´clock in the morning. After another 500 meters of elevation, the weather, unlike the previous day, was favorable, so I could take up a rocky path backed by a steel rope. I would compare this journey to the Tatra Mountains. Well-secured, no overexposed moments. I think there’s no need for belaying in nice weather.

Busy top of Zugspitze

Björn got to the top sooner of course and waited with two typical white sausages and wheat beers. Thanks, Björn for this tasty reward. The Bavarian kitchen – that´s something I love. However, the disadvantage of the Zugspitze peak showed too. And that is the cable car. Tourists who probably had been in the mountains for the first time took a lift to the summit.

According to their clothes, I’d rather think they were going to either a gala dinner or to a beach. They didn’t seem to understand that it was going to be cold at almost three thousand meters above sea level. They topped this smart behavior when they tried to get to the nearby summit, which can only be reached through a short, but interesting via ferrata. I just feared for some of the girls wearing high heels to fall from a few-hundred-meter-high cliff. Fortunately, my expectations were not confirmed, and so the ladies were nicely matching the fully equipped mountain climbers at the top cross.

Cross on the top of mountain Zugspitze — *Valuable moment – noone on the top of Zugspitze*

When I finally got through the crowd of tourists, I could enjoy a breathtaking view. The clouds had just spread out, and I got to see a deep valley with arguably the largest German glacier. However, the view did not last for a long time, and I was too slow to pick up my camera, so I just have this picture of dense milk covering Zugspitze.

*View over the end station of the cable car from the top of Zugspitze*

We decided not to walk down. We love our knees and the journey would take another 8 hours which would be tough for Björn. So, we decided to take the “enemy” cable car. The 33 EUR ticket hurt, but that´s life.

*View over Zugspitze from the start of the cable car*

My tips for the mountain Zugspitze:

Book your accommodation on the top of Zugspitze. If you do so you can enjoy precious time when there are no tourists on the top when the cable car is closed.
Try the via ferrata if it is nice weather. I am very sad I didn’t try it.
Best accommodation at starting point: Hotel Staudacherhof in Garmisch-Partenkirchen or hotel Eibsee nearby cable car to Zugspitze

Hiker enjoys view at sunset and mountain Triglav

April 28, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to prepare for climbing Slovenia’s highest peak Triglav

The mountain Triglav is very popular among Slovenians. Apart from the fact that the mountain itself is on the state flag, there is also an unwritten law that every Slovenian should climb the top at least once in a lifetime. I had respect of the mountain because I was unable to conquer it for the first time when I was 12 years old. This time I was much more prepared and climbing Triglav was one of the nicest experiences I ever had in the mountains. Follow this article for all necessary information you need before your visit including recommended routes, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Slovenia’s highest mountain

Short description of the ascent: Steep and long climb using via ferrata
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear + helmets + via ferrata equipment recommended
Best time to visit: June - September 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Best accommodation at starting point: Aljažev Dom or Multiple options in village Mojstrana, recommended Aparthotel Pr' Jakapč' with the best reviews
Starting point: Aljažev Dom 
Height of the peak: 2,864 m 
Hiking distance: 5,8 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Triglav: 5-8 hours up, 4-6 hours back
Recommended ascent in two days: DAY 1 - Aljažev Dom - Triglavski dom na Kredarici (via Tominškova pot); DAY 2: Triglavski dom na Kredarici - Triglav - Aljažev Dom (via Pot čez Prag)
Elevation climbed: 1,885 m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Union Black Unfiltered *** (6 stars maximum)

The best routes to Triglav

There are several routes leading to Triglav. Here is a list of them:

Tominškova pot and Pot čez Prag: You can choose the most popular routes from Aljažev dom, which can be managed via two different ferratas (Tominškova pot – a bit easier and Pot čez Prag – a bit harder) going up and down in one day. Two days are recommended though – see detailed tips in the description of these two routes below.
Via the valley of the seven Triglav lakes: Another option is to go to the top via the valley of the seven Triglav lakes. This route is a relatively long trek in one of the most beautiful European valleys.
Via the Krma valley: Another option to reach Triglav is through the Krma valley, which is considered to be a long but an easy ascent and with a minimum of people.

In this article, we will take a look at the most popular summer ascent to Triglav from Aljažev dom.

Map of the best route to Triglav and back

Equipment for climbing Triglav

When climbing Triglav from Aljažev dom, a helmet is a must. Since many mountaineers choose this way to the top, it is common to witness rock falls. Besides helmets, a via ferrata set is also recommended. I already had experience with climbing Triglav from my childhood, when rules and recommendations didn’t play as strong a role as they should have so we climbed Triglav without a via ferrata set. Nevertheless, I would never do it this way with my own children. Via ferrata equipment is strongly recommended to everyone who is afraid of heights and especially for children. The terrain is partly very exposed. I will return to my childhood experience later in the article.

My story of climbing Triglav with personal tips

Triglav was another moountain to reach within my project European Peaks during which I reached the highest point of every European country. I arived to the Slovenian city Jesenice after the successful summiting the mountain Zugspitze in Germany. I came by a night train at 5 a.m. so I was still very sleepy. That’s why I didn’t hesitate to unfold my sleeping mat on the ground at Jesenice train station. I was so glad I wasn’t the only weirdo. Two Spaniards joined me, so I had no regrets to spend another night as a homeless man.

Demanding Tominsek route to Triglav

My friend Mara arrived after a few hours, woke me up and we immediately moved with his car to the hut of Aljažev Dom, which is the best-known starting point for the mountain Triglav. Time to hike up to Triglav!

The hike began roughly immediately after the start. We chose the more demanding Tominsek route, which offers both a beautiful via ferrata and traverses across a steep slope.

Steep parts on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav — *Some parts are very steep on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav*

The nature of the Julian Alps still stayed in my memory. Many times during the hike I remembered my first visit. When I was twelve, my parents and their friends with their children decided to summit Triglav. However, they made a major mistake. They decided to ascend and descend Triglav in one single day.

Climbing Triglav in one day is stupid if you aren’t experienced

Why the rush? For less trained individuals (which they definitely were that time, sorry mum and dad) and especially for children, it can be a too big challenge. That time I only climbed up to the Kredarica Hut, where me and other kids waited for our parents to return from the summit of Triglav. Or better said if they’d come back at all. In my child’s eyes, I didn’t give it a big chance. The thunderclouds on the surrounding hills looked pretty scary. Fortunately, the parents probably knew what they were doing and successfully returned from the top of Triglav.

That’s why I and my friend Mara decided to divide the climb in two days. In the end, the opening ascent of 1,700 meters of altitude took us 4.5 hours and we were at the Kredarica Hut. There was no mountain spring water along the way, so we were very thirsty.

The cosy Kredarica Hut

The Kredarica Hut had a pleasant atmosphere. At each table tourists planned the climb for the following day while eating their dinner and drinking beer. Fortunately, it was forbidden to “kadit” at the table, as the signs on the wall showed (Slovenian word “kadit” means “to smoke” in English, in Czech it means “to shit”). Those who wanted to smoke had to go out (we were glad for that). I would say that the father of people of Slavic nations had made a lot of verbal puns from the mentioned languages.

Amazing sunset over Triglav

From the funny conversation with the locals, we were only disturbed by the sunset, which drew us out with its radiant golden color. And what a view it was! In the end, it turned out to be one of the most beautiful sunsets of my entire expedition. The clouds were flowing over the saddle and it created a beautiful show.

We really enjoyed this view. On the other hand, we were concerned about what kind of climb was waiting for us the following day. The initial part of the climb looked very steep. Is it possible to establish a safe route in such terrain? Mara even declared that he was not going anywhere the next day. To my remark that even my mom conquered the mountain he couldn’t give up though: “If your mom made it, I must do it too.”

Expect very steep climb before reaching Triglav — *Expect a very steep climb before reaching Triglav*

Final via ferrata to Triglav

After the sunset show, we went to bed so we could get up at 5 in the morning to climb to the top of Triglav and catch the sunrise from the summit.

The morning wake up was difficult, but it definitely paid off. We avoided the crowds of cheering tourists climbing to the top. On the way to Triglav, we did not meet a single tourist who would slow us down on the narrow via ferrata, or would even threaten us. The ascent to the summit was ideally timed for the sunrise. It was a real beauty from the summit. We could not wish for better weather and we had the whole of Slovenia under us. It was great visibility, so we could even see the distant Grossglockner in Austria.

The top of Triglav during spectacular sunrise — *The top of Triglav during a spectacular sunrise*

The way down took us half an hour longer than the ascent. The tourists started to form similar queues as I experienced earlier on Grossglockner. This time we didn’t mind though. The sun was shining, it was not cold, and the views were still breathtaking. When we returned to Kredarica Hut, the weather was perfect. To celebrate the ascent, we fell asleep on sunny benches for an hour.

Never ending descent

After a well-deserved nap, we headed back to the valley. For the descent we chose the second route this time – Cez Prag route. It was supposed to be less steep and therefore more gentle for the knees. However, it was very similar to the first route in my opinion. While descending I chose my favorite method – the quicker you go, the faster you will have it behind you, and I managed to run down the whole hill in 2h 45 minutes. I waited for my friend while having a refreshing beverage.

Relax at romantic Bled

Mara joined me in a while. After a quick snack, we headed to the renowned lake Bled to relax. We weren´t keen on waking up very early in the morning, but we did it in the end. The sunrise over lake Bled with its picturesque isle and the church in the middle sounded tempting. And it was worth it. A beautiful spectacle. I haven’t seen many more romantic places. I understand why Bled is a popular place for lovers. Around the lake we met more or less only couples in love holding each other´s hands. Pity that I was at Bled only with Mara and not my girlfriend that time.

Sunrise over the lake Bled — *Sunrise over lake Bled*

My tips for climbing the mountain Triglav:

Stay over in the Kredarica Hut. There is no hurry to climb Triglav in just one day. You will avoid afternoon storms which are very frequent during summer and you will be able to enjoy beautiful sunset from Kredarica.
Wake up very early for the summit day. You will avoid the crowds.
If you have an extra day, spend it around the lake Bled.
Best accommodation at starting point: Aljažev Dom or Multiple options in village Mojstrana, recommended Aparthotel Pr’ Jakapč’ with the best reviews

View at beautiful mountain Grossglockner

April 21, 2024 • 0 Comment

Climbing Grossglockner: A practical and personal guide to successful summit

Grossglockner is one of the toughest challenges of the whole European Peaks project. You have to cross a glacier on the way up and the last part is very exposed so securing with a rope is essential. Here all the necessary tips you need for your successful climb. Follow my tips and personal experience from my own climb to the highest point of Austria.

Important information for climbing Grossglockner

Short description of the ascent from Kals am Grossglockner: Demanding multi-day climb on both rock and glacier
Essential equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (avoid weekends; best September)
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Best accommodation at starting point: Gradonna Mountain Resort Chalets & Hotel in Kals am Großglockner with fantastic view
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Huts Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte and Stüdlhütte
Height of the peak: 3,798 m 
Distance to the top: 9.2 km (one way)
Time to ascend from Karl am Grossglockner and back: Typically 2 days (see recommended itinerary below)
Day 1: 5-7 hours to Erzerhog-Johann Hütte
Day 2: 1-3 hours to Grossglockner from Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte
Descend from Grossglockner back to parking lot: 3-5 hours
Elevation climbed (one way without acclimatization climb): 1,878 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Huts Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte and Stüdlhütte
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Edelweiss Dunkel ***** (6 stars maximum)

The best route to Grossglockner

The most common route to the summit of Grossglockner starts at Kals am Grossglockner and involves an overnight stay at the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. Here’s a general overview of the route:

1. Starting Point: Kals am Grossglockner is a village located in the Hohe Tauern National Park in Austria and serves as a common starting point for climbing Grossglockner. There is a parking lot where you can leave you car and start your hike.

2. Approach to Stüdlhütte: The route to Grossglockner usually involves a hike to the Stüdlhütte, a mountain hut situated at an elevation of approximately 2,800 meters. This hut serves perfectly as a spot for a lunch break.

3. Glacier from Stüdlhütte: The next part of the hike between Stüdlhütte and Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte involves passing a glacier. Therefore, it’s necessary to have proper equipment with you. The Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is a perfect place for an overnight stay before the final climb to Grossglockner the next morning.

4. Final climb to Grossglockner: The final climb is very steep directly from the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. Knowing the route, proper climbing equipment and experience is necessary. If you lack experience or equipment a climbing guide is a must.

Map of the climb to Grossglockner

My story of climbing Grossglockner with practical tips

Grossglockner was another amazing mountain on my expedition European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country but it was probably the most challenging mountain for me. After my car accident in Scotland I was sure my expedition was over. I lost all my equipment and I was very depressed. It is difficult to describe the feeling but I was just lying on my bed with negative thoughts about what happened and what could happen. I didn’t have any motivation to do anything, felt hopeless and didn’t know what to do next. Should I just cancel my remaining holiday and go back to work? Should I stay at home for a bit to recover?

Amazing support from family and friends helped me to set out again

People around me couldn’t help me either. I had to make some decision myself. The problem was that I was not able to do that. I was so desperate that I visited a psychologist for the first time in my life. We had a long discussion and the psychologist found out that I actually deep inside wanted to continue and finish the remaining mountains. She found out the most important thing: I hate giving up.

As I said I didn’t even think about continuing after the accident because I was scared about failing and I didn’t want to let others down again. But it was true. I just didn’t want to give up. The meeting brought the right spark for my decision. I would do all my best to continue and to finish the expedition!

The highest mountain of Austria - Grossglockner — *Next mountain to reach – Grossglockner*

On one hand, it was a wise decision. I still had all the tickets booked and many friends were waiting for our appointed climbs. On the other hand: was it even possible? I didn’t have any equipment and almost no money. But I decided to give it a try. I posted on social media that I need help and what equipment I am looking for. The response was amazing. I managed to borrow and rent all the equipment I lost within just 24 hours. Only thanks to my amazing family and friends around me I regained the lost trust and I believed again I can make it. That assured me. I should get back to the mountains.

Climbing gear for Grossglockner — *Expedition equipment fixed in 24 hours*

Grossglockner is one of the most challenging mountains of the European Peaks project

I quickly packed all the new equipment and set out on the trip. Let’s climb Grossglockner! I met my friends Martin and Stefan in Austria and we continued together to the car park at Lucknerhaus. That’s where our two day climb started.

Looking stupid in my mum's sunglasses — *My mum even lent me her glasses (she has more or less the same diopter strength). I looked like an idiot but it worked. Let the journey begin.*

Description of the climb to Grossglockner

At the beginning it was a very easy hike with stunning views. We expected potential difficulties after the hut Städlhütte because there is the beginning of the glacier. However, finding the way was very easy thanks to great visibility. The glacier was quite dirty but at least there were no dangerous cracks. The traverse over the glacier took only about an hour. Then we only had a short via ferrata in front of us and we soon reached the hut Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte.

*Quickly melting glacier under Grossglockner*

Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is a very cosy place to stay. We had a great dinner there and even better beer. Unfortunately, we had no view because clouds arrived. Instead of having views over the fog, we rather went to bed on time. Next morning we had to wake up early.

Wrong weather forecast sent us into a freezing fog

The alarm clock rang at 4 am. Our plan was to catch the sunrise on the top of Austria. We started the climb in the darkness and a dense fog. Unfortunately, this was again a time when the forecast was completely wrong. Luckily, we were not the first ones climbing up so we could follow a path in the glacier. It took us about an hour to pass the glacier and then the true climbing began.

Unfortunately, it was still very foggy so the navigation was very difficult. This time there was even no path so it was even more difficult to find the correct way up. We got lost several times which meant an hour delay. Luckily, more and more people were showing up coming from the hut so it was subsequently easier to follow the correct route.

The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment on the way to Grossglockner — *The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment*

Due to the delay, we lost the opportunity to catch sunrise on the top but it didn’t really matter. The clouds were still occupying Grossglockner. At least, we were back on the correct route so the climb got easier.

Grossglockner needs traffic lights

Suddenly, the visibility improved a bit and we realized we are already on the final ridge. That time, the first climbers started to return from the summit as well. However, that was the beginning of our worst Grossglockner experience.

It was very exposed on the ridge and there were almost no places where you can pass a climber from the opposite direction. The queues started to form and they became very long in a short while. The administrators of the Grossglockner route should consider building traffic lights there. There were simply too many people. We had to wait sometimes even twenty minutes at a time. The rocks were covered with frost and the wind was getting stronger with every elevation meter. During such a long waiting time you will get cold. We started to freeze.

*Crazy queue on the way to Grossglockner*

Finally, the first 30 climbers overcame the narrow passage leading from the top and we could finally continue ascending. Our hands were frozen but the climb let us warm up. Luckily, the top was already not far. We soon spotted the cross on the top emerging from the clouds. In the end it took us three and half hours to reach the summit. Unfortunately, it was still cloudy so we had no view.

If you want to climb Grossglockner avoid summer weekends

On the way down, the situation from the way up repeated several times. Queues really ruined the overall experience of our climb. The worst were some irresponsible groups which refused to wait. Instead they were hurrying up and putting others in risky situations. Next time I would never climb Grossglockner during the weekend again.

After descending about 200 meters, finally the weather improved. The clouds disappeared and we finally had a wonderful view over the largest glacier in the eastern Alps – Pasterze. This view was certainly worth the effort.

View over the beautiful glacier Pasterze — *View over the glacier Pasterze*

Descending with recovered weather was much easier. We soon passed the cabin Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte and had a celebration lunch under the glacier at the Städlhütte. We made it. One of the toughest climbs managed despite bad weather!

Lastly, I would like to thank a lot my climbing partners Stefan and Martin for the best company and especially their climbing experience. Without you I would never get up to the peak!

View over Grossglockner - northern side — *View over Grossglockner – northern side*

View over Grossglockner - southern side — *View over Grossglockner – southern side*

My tips for the mountain Grossglockner:

Avoid climbing Grossglockner during weekends. The mountain is extremely busy. I suggest climbing it during autumn when the summer tourists disappear as well.
The climb is technically demanding. You need glacier experience as well as climbing experience. If you lack any of these two, don’t even try to climb the mountain on your own. Find an experienced climbing partner or a mountain guide.
Best accommodation at starting point: Gradonna Mountain Resort Chalets & Hotel in Kals am Großglockner with fantastic view

View at highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Maglic

September 3, 2023 • 0 Comment

Practical guide to the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Maglic

Maglić, sometimes also called Bosanski Maglić, is the most beautiful mountain of the highest points of all Balkan states. It looks like a limestone pyramid with steep 700 meter high rock walls. The most popular climb to its peak via a via ferrata isn’t easy but you will be rewarded. From its top you can enjoy spectacular views over the oldest preserved forests in Europe. This article is your ultimate guide how to get to the top of Maglić including my personal experience.

The best routes to Maglić

There are two popular short routes to the peak from Bosnia and Herzegovina and also one longer route from Montenegro. Let’s take a look at them:

Via ferrata from Prijevor: The most popular and also the most scenic route starts at Prijevor. There is a parking lot and observation tower at the start of the hike. From there, it isn’t far to the peak. In fact, it’s only 2 km away but bear in mind that the hike is very steep and there is via ferrata on the way for safety. Here is a map of this route. We’ll take a look at this route more in detail in the article below. Bear in mind that this route offers fantastic views but if you’re scared of heights, the second route is recommended.
Alternative route from Bosnia: This route is longer but isn’t steep. If you’re scared of heights, this is a better option for you. Take a look at this map where the route starts. There isn’t a particular parking lot at the start of the hike but you can leave your car next to the road. This route goes up mainly in the forest so you will have less views but it’s safer.
Route from Montenegro: This route is the longest. It starts at a hut called the same as the peak – Maglić – and it follows the marked route “Maglić do Pivske planine preko kanjona Pive”. As this route is longer and further from civilization, it will give you more chance to explore the remote mountains of Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Take a look at the map.

Important information for climbing Maglić from Prijevor

Short description of the ascent: Short hike with scrambling and it also includes a steep via ferrata
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: May - October
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes but be careful of bears!
Nearest recommended accommodation: Camp Sutjeska with cosy huts
Height of the peak: 2,386 m
Hiking distance: 2 km 
Time to ascend to Maglić: 1,5-3 hours up, 1-2 hours down 
Elevation climbed: 687 m
Water availability on the mountain: At the start of the hike
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nektar Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the climb to Maglić from Prijevor

My story of climbing Maglić in winter conditions with personal tips

After our bear story in Montenegro, my girlfriend and I continued to the last Balkan country on my expedition. Arriving to Bosnia and Hercegovina was an interesting driving experience. The quality of roads went sharply down after crossing the borders of Montenegro. On the other hand, the roads could boast of lots of cattle. Until we reached the village of Tjentiště lying at the foot of Maglić, we met the whole farm including cows, sheep, pigs and goats.

The journey wasn’t only interesting from an animal perspective. We also had amazing views over landscapes. I personally most liked the views of the Durmitor Mountains which were covered in fresh snow and the drive through the Sutjeska National Park through a very interesting deep canyon.

When we arrived to Tjentiště, we found a surprisingly nice and modern campsite Sutjeska with cozy cottages, so we could sleep well before climbing the highest mountain Maglić.

The way to the top looked simple as described on the Internet. We will go from Tjentiště by car to the starting point of the hike and the actual climb will be only two kilometers long with less than 700 meters of elevation. The articles online were mentioning that the ascent is steep and accompanied by a via ferrata but nothing extra demanding so we were looking forward to it.

Still a lot of snow

We woke up early to start our hike during sunrise. The weather was perfect and the Windy app was saying there is no snow on Maglić. Nothing should stop us from making a successful ascent. We took the gravel road to the beginning of the climb. It was surprisingly well passable but there was snow one kilometer before our destination. The snow didn’t let us through. It looks like the apps were wrong: we will have to encounter winter obstacles even on Maglić. We had to stop our car, park it and extend our climb by a kilometer. We packed our backpacks including crampons and left towards Maglić.

One of the most beautiful Balkan mountains

View at Maglić from below — *Time to start our climb*

We came to the starting point after fifteen minutes and there we had an amazing view over Maglić. We couldn’t wait to climb it. After we took a few pictures we headed up. The climb was very steep right from the start. The opening short passage in the forest soon changed into an ascent on rocks and small stones. After forty minutes we reached a large snow field. The Windy app was wrong this time.

Since the sun didn’t reach us from behind Maglić the snow was frozen. We had to put on crampons. The slope was becoming steeper and steeper. Slipping down would mean going down several hundred meters on our butts. I was sad we didn’t have ice axes with us.

After climbing about 400 meters of altitude on the snow field, the snow suddenly ended and it seemed that the rest of the way was just climbing via the via ferrata. We left there our crampons to have lighter backpacks and headed up. It was obvious that we were the first ones to try to climb here this year. There were a lot of loose stones on the trail and the via ferrata was often still frozen to the rock, so we couldn’t use it. Some of the rocks which looked like solid handles were breaking in our hands after winter erosion. The climb wasn’t the safest thing I have done. We had to be extra careful with every elevation meter. Looking down I thought we wouldn’t survive a fall.

Via ferrata in winter without proper equipment is a hazard

Steep climb to the top of Maglić — *It was steeper and steeper*

I didn’t quite understand how all the articles about Maglić were claiming it is an “easy scrambling”. The climb looked pretty dangerous to me in these conditions. Fortunately, Joanne was brave and accustomed to the heights from climbing centers, so she didn’t protest and continued climbing up with me.

We managed to get just 40 elevation meters from the summit. It was so close but suddenly a new snow passage appeared. We didn’t see it from below. Shit. We left our crampons behind. Neither me nor Joanne liked the last steep meters in snow. We discussed what to do. Joanne was too scared to continue. I was going to try to reach the peak without crampons, by digging steps in the snow. If that doesn’t work we would just turn around. If it did work, I would be back soon. The peak is near. Joanne would wait for me.

I was lucky. The snow had an ideal consistency. It was still hard so I could make steps by kicking in it. I could continue up well while holding the surrounding rocks to secure myself. I managed to climb 35 altitude meters and I already saw the peak. It was so close but I saw that I cannot continue. There was no snow in front of me but ice. I couldn’t hold on to anything. Climbing the last five meters would be suicide without crampons and an ice axe. I had to give up.

Feeling stupid on the top

Snow on the mountain Maglić anda hiker on the final ridge — *The last part was a bit crazy but luckily manageable*

I was sadly coming back down to Joanne when I noticed one more potential way to get to the top. There was a narrow path between two rocks. It looked steep but it should be possible without crampons. I tried this way and it worked. A few steps up I got over the rocks, overcame the final overhang and stood on the summit. I did it!

Even though I managed it didn’t feel correct. I was feeling ashamed. Joanne was waiting for me. I thought I can climb up quickly but the ascent to the summit and return looked like it would eventually take an hour and a half.

Beautiful view from Maglić to Bosnia and Herzegovina — *View from the top was amazing but I couldn’t enjoy it for a long time*

I just took the essential pictures on the top and wanted to descend back to Joanne when I saw four other tourists suddenly heading toward the summit from the other side of the ridge. It was an Austrian family with two kids who went to the summit in shorts and without crampons. “Where did you come from?” I couldn’t believe my eyes. “We reached the peak from Bosnia. The journey was a few kilometers longer than yours but it wasn’t steep and with almost no snow. It took us three hours to get here.”

A group of hikers reaching Maglić from Montenegro — *Austrian family reaching Maglić from Montenegro*

I was feeling hopeless. Why the hell couldn’t I find any article about this alternative route on the Internet? And why did nobody in our camp recommend this route for us? We spoke about getting to Maglić the whole evening last night. We had unnecessarily followed a risky path while we could have had a pleasant day hike.

I was scared to descend back to Joanne but I didn’t have any other option. Fortunately, my worst case scenario that going down would be worse than going up didn’t come true. I descended calmly and slowly without problems. Then we descended back to the car together.

The descent was very long. It took us 3 hours and 30 minutes to reach the car. We went down the same way. In winter, I would never choose this route again without proper climbing equipment including crampons, harness, rope and ice ax.

Selfie with mountain Maglić — *Safely under Maglić after tough summit and descent. This was a bit crazy*

My tips for climbing the mountain Maglić:

I recommend a 4×4 car to get to the starting point. The road can be difficult to pass, especially after rain.
If you want to skip the steep via ferrata, choose an alternative route to Maglić across Montenegro. It is much safer.
Do not walk off the marked trails. There can be still mines from the Balkan wars in the ground.
Bring jingle bells and pepper spray against bears. We saw one bear from our car.
Nearest recommended accommodation: Camp Sutjeska with cosy huts

Beautiful sunset view of Fagaras mountains

July 9, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak

The Făgăraș mountains in Romania are a majestic range of rugged beauty. If you are looking for a wonderful mountain ridge hike with a minimum of other visitors, this is the place for you. You’ll most likely only meet sheep on the way. Among the mountains on the main ridge one stands out – Moldoveanu, the highest summit. Climbing Moldoveanu’s peak requires courage and endurance. It lies more than 13 km from the nearest village and therefore is usually climbed in two days but it’s so worth it! Not only the summit but the whole journey offers unforgettable views over surrounding peaks, valleys, and lakes.

Important information for climbing Moldoveanu Peak

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on the mountain ridge
Essential equipment: Hiking gear for long and demanding hikes
Best time to visit: June - October (Be careful of strong storms during high season)
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Bâlea Lac and hut Caban Podragu
Recommended accommodation before the hike: Well rated Hotel Paraul Capra on the other side of the tunnel of Transfagarasan
Starting point: village Bâlea Lac (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2,544 m
Hiking distance: 13.1 km (one way) - be careful - demanding both ways
Time to ascend to Moldoveanu peak: 8 hours up, 7 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,429 m up and 965 m down (this means only one way - important to count on the way back!)
Water availability on the mountain: hut Cabana Podragu and a stream under mountain Mircii (see the map below)
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Silva Black (dark lager) *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of two best routes to Moldoveanu Peak

The highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak is very remote compared to other highest mountains of European countries. It’s recommended to climb it in two days because the distance from the nearest village Bâlea Lac is very long and the hiking path to the peak is very hard with many ascents and descents. I recommend to stay at Cabana Podragu on the way or to bring a tent. Regarding the route, you have these two main options:

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac: This option is a bit shorter but it’s very hard because you will have to hike the tough ridge with many uphills and downhills both ways.
Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria: This option is a bit longer but it has the advantage that you descend on the way back to civilization.

I myself selected the second option but I have to admit it didn’t feel like an easier route. It was very long and demanding too. There is no easy way to and from Moldoveanu Peak.

Map of the route to Moldoveanu Peak

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac

Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria

My story of climbing Moldoveanu Peak

I have to be honest. Moldoveanu Peak is the mountain which I underestimated the most of all European Peaks I climbed. Starting at 2,030 m and looking at the map showing 2,544 m for the highest peak makes the underestimation easy. In the end, it became one of the toughest hikes with the first injury. On the other hand it also became the hike with one of the best views and the least tourists. Follow my steps in the Făgăraș mountains.

To Moldoveanu Peak via one of the most amazing roads in the world

My trip to the highest peak of Romania started in a night train from Hungary. I was lucky to book one of the last beds in the train so I could charge some energy before the fourth EU Peak in four days! I was happy that my mum also wanted to join for one EU Peak and she chose Moldoveanu Peak. She was already waiting for me with my father in the city Făgăraș, the city which gave its name to the mountain ridge with the highest mountain of Romania. The city itself is not interesting at all though. We took a short lunch break and continued up to the mountains.

Soon we reached the starting point of our hike which is located at Bâlea Lac pass. The drive up was epic, which is not surprising. The Transfăgărășan road was named one of the most amazing roads in the world, definitely the most scenic car drive of my trip.

Hiking at Fagaras mountains — *Time for some hiking with my parents*

The weather forecast was very good so I made a brave plan to tent on Moldoveanu Peak. I was really looking forward to this challenge. My parents seemed to look forward too. We packed our backpacks and I took all of my equipment with me including a tent, a sleeping bag, a mattress, clothes, food and of course my drone and all camera equipment. Altogether my backpack was 30 kg. This hike was supposed to be a test for a one week long hike across the Swedish mountains. Is it a good idea?

Fascinating ridge of Făgăraș mountains

The initial climb to the mountain ridge isn’t really difficult and after half an hour you have a magnificent view. We thought that the toughest part was behind. Then, we walked up and down on the ridge and enjoyed amazing views around. I think you can’t find such a nice grassy landscape anywhere else.

View from the ridge over beautiful road Transfăgărășan — *View from the ridge over Transfăgărășan*

After ca 3.5 km we stood in front of a fork. Should we take an easier route via the refuge Cabana Podragu or should we take a more scenic route and continue on the mountain ridge via a trail called “Three steps from death”? We still felt in shape so we decided for the more challenging route.

Three Steps from Death

Unfortunately, that showed up to be a big mistake. The hike would be okay with light backpacks but carrying 30 kg wasn’t fun at all. After a few hundred meters the most crucial part occurred. We had to use steel chains to get further up and subsequently down. At one point my mum lost balance and fell on her back. When my father and I looked at her we knew directly that this won’t be okay. “I twisted my ankle” she said in pain.

At this point, Moldoveanu Peak had to step aside. We had to come up with a rescue plan. I first thought we would have to call an ambulance but my mum said: “No, if I stop the ankle becomes swollen and it would be even worse. I have to continue to the nearest civilization.” My father and I were surprised by her decision but we couldn’t say anything against it. The doctor is always right, and she actually is a doctor. Looking at the map we were in the worst position. We were at two thirds of the route in between our starting point and the refuge Cabana Podragu.

Fagaras mountains in Romania during sunset — *It was getting dark and we still didn’t reach the cabin*

My mum refused to go back the same way so we decided to continue to the cabin. She tightened her shoes and we continued walking. We became slower and the sun started to go down. We realized soon that we won’t manage to reach the cabin before sunset. Instead, we decided to build tents. I found a nice tenting spot on top of a mountain only 40 meters lower than Moldoveanu Peak. Look at the view I had from my tent.

Fantastic sunset over beautiful Romanian mountains — *Green paradise going to sleep*

How to get my mum safely home?

After sunset we were planning what to do the following day. The shortest way for my mum to get to civilization was to continue to the cabin Podragu and then down through a valley to the village Arpașu de Sus so we decided for that. My father wanted to make everything easier so he decided to go back to our starting point to pick up the car to make my mum’s journey shorter. I decided to wake up at 4 am to conquer Moldoveanu Peak in the early morning and join my mum later at the cabin Podragu.

This solution had one certain advantage. I still have the opportunity to climb the highest mountain of Romania! The disadvantage was that my sleep would be very short. It could be longer but I decided to take pictures of the Milky Way. It was such a beautiful night.

Don’t bring a too heavy backpack to the mountains

In the early morning I woke up very tired but visualizing myself on the top gave me energy to start my hike. I was still halfway from our starting point though. I passed the last pieces of snow from last winter, witnessed a beautiful sunrise and enjoyed views over spacious green mountains. The journey was long and there were no people around. The only living beings I met were sheep.

It could be an amazing day but I always had on my mind that my injured mum was waiting for me, so I tried to hurry as much as I could. Two hours later though I needed a break. I suddenly became too tired to continue. I decided to leave my tent and sleeping bag under a large stone to have a lighter backpack. My hike became better but not for a long time. Soon I was tired again. The backpack was still over 20 kg. I decided to even leave my drone and my computer under several stones in order to be able to continue.

On the top of Moldoveanu Peak

One more hour and I finally conquered Moldoveanu Peak. I was super tired but the view was excellent. A pity I couldn’t enjoy it for a long time because my mum was waiting. I didn’t want to let her go alone. In the end I stayed only for the essential pictures before I headed back.

Selfie on top of Moldoveanu Peak, the highest peak of Romania — *Tired on the top of Moldoveanu Peak*

On the way back I realized I didn’t have any local money and no food either so my mum was the only potential source of new energy at the cabin Podragu. After realizing that I even started to run back. Luckily, I found one Lifebar Protein energy bar in my bag which gave me enough energy to see my mum. She was still waiting. She said her deadline before leaving was in ten minutes. How lucky I was.

Never ending descent

I ordered a local soup, a main dish and a local beer. Much better. I felt like a reborn Jarda. I felt ready to descend. My mum got new energy too but her ankle still hurt. Let’s hope we’ll make it. If I said the journey to Moldoveanu Peak was long, then I don’t know what to say about the descent to the village Arpașu de Sus. First few kilometers were scenic but once we got into the forest the journey got boring and never ending. Even my watch turned off because of low battery. That long was this terrible descent.

Sheep in Romanian mountains — *Besides my parents, the only living beings I met in Romanian mountains*

When it looked like we are finally reaching the road where my father was supposed to wait, the path suddenly started to go up. One turn, second turn, third turn, fourth turn until I suddenly screamed: “Kurv∗!” Only 10 more turns up and finally the hill ended. Then we just had to go steeply down and there was my father waiting. We managed!

After taking off her shoes, my mum’s ankle got three times bigger and she wasn’t able to walk on it for one month. Never underestimate mountains. This could end up much worse but we managed in the end. So proud of my parents.

My tips for the mountain Moldoveanu Peak:

Don’t underestimate Moldoveanu Peak.
Make the summit in two days. Tent halfway or stay over in the cozy refuge Podragu.
If you have longer time you can cross the whole Făgăraș mountain ridge. The whole trip takes ca 7 days.