Road trip Archives - The Best Viewpoints

Climber in front of mountain Hvannadalshnúkur

February 4, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to successfully climb the highest peak of Iceland – Hvannadalshnúkur

The land of fire and ice is hiding one of the most demanding ascents of the project European Peaks. Its highest mountain Hvannadalshnúkur is an inactive volcano covered by Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull and its summit is not only very physically demanding but also very unpredictable when it comes to weather. Strong winds and blizzards are common there even in summer. In this article you can find all tips you need to know before your climb to Iceland’s highest mountain including my own personal experience and you will also get a tip for a guiding company.

Important information for climbing Hvannadalshnúkur

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on glacier, glacier experience necessary, difficult navigation
Essential equipment: Touring skis/snowshoes/crampons, hiking poles; full glacier equipment 
Best time to visit: April - June
Fees or restrictions: No but guide strongly recommended
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Skaftafell
Starting point: Parking lot Sandfell (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2,110 m
Ski touring/hiking distance: 11.5 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Hvannadalshnúkur: 7 hours 30 minutes up, 4 hours down
Elevation climbed: 2,066 m 
Water availability on the mountain: No but you can melt snow or ice from the glacier
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Víking Rökkr **** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the route to Hvannadalshnúkur

The climb of Hvannadalshnúkur has four parts. Up to about 1,000 m above sea level there is a rocky section with a path to follow. Then you will enter the glacier on which you will climb to the altitude of about 1,800 m above sea level. There will be waiting a large plateau. Do not walk the shortest possible route to the peak over the plateau. There is the largest risk of falling into cracks. Instead, follow the peak on a curve, do not go straight (see the map below). At the end there is a steep final section to the peak (ca 300 elevation meters).

Map of the route to Hvannadalshnúkur

My story of climbing Hvannadalshnúkur

I climbed Hvannadalshnúkur as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. After winter ascents in Andorra and Norway I was facing an even bigger winter challenge. The majestic mountain Hvannadalshnúkur is both beautiful and demanding and it became one of the highlights of the expedition. To reach the summit the majority of your climb will be on a glacier where you are in danger of falling into cracks and you have to get ready for hostile weather. Blizzards and strong winds are common here even during summer.

Two climbers under Hvannadalshnúkur — *Jakub and I under Hvannadalshnúkur. Will we manage to climb it?*

I had a big respect for this mountain so I wanted to book a mountain guide (which I strongly recommend to you too if you want to summit this amazing mountain). This company has years of experience in climbing Hvannadalshnúkur and it will ensure your safe summit. However, the circumstances changed. No guide was available on my summit day so I decided to climb the mountain only with my friend Jakub.

Proper preparation is the key

Because Jakub and I wanted to climb Hvannadalshnúkur at the beginning of the climbing season, early April, planning was the most important success factor. In Iceland there were still winter conditions, and climbing in bad weather would mean gambling with our lives. We planned to stay in Iceland the whole week with the hope that one of the seven days will be suitable for the climb.

A farm under Hvannadalshnúkur — *Hvannadalshnúkur in all its beauty*

Before we arrived in Iceland, we closely monitored the weather forecast. That was very changeable. It seemed that predicting Icelandic weather was like throwing a dice. Completely random in the long term. Therefore, I was looking for Icelandic climbers on Facebook to ask how to prepare for our climb and where to watch the weather. I got answers from three climbers who had already climbed the highest mountain of Iceland. We got these recommendations:

Check the weather forecast at this Icelandic website: en.vedur.is.
Be careful when climbing over the glacier. It is necessary to be tied on a rope and to be very careful. The glacier is safe in winter if you follow the recommended GPS route exactly.
GPS is important to not to get lost. Don’t forget an extra battery/ powerbank.
Register your climb at safetravel.is, so local authorities know about your venture.

Weather lottery

Based on the weather forecast we decided to climb Hvannadalshnúkur right after our arrival to Iceland. The forecast looked amazing. Sunny the whole day, just a strong wind in the morning. I contacted local mountain guides who perform regular ascents. However, I was told that the ascent was canceled due to bad weather. “Too windy,” they said. The climb was supposed to move to the next day, but we didn’t like that at all. It was supposed to blow less, but it was supposed to be cloudy with snowfall. There was no other summit day before our flight back to Stockholm so we decided to climb the mountain on our own.

In Reykjavik we rented climbing equipment and managed to get harnesses, crampons, a rope and hiking poles. According to the rental company and local climbers, this should be enough for us in the current conditions. According to them, the main risk – glacial cracks – is safely covered with snow from the whole winter during this time of the year.

First day in the winter wonderland

Then we rented a car and headed towards the starting point of the climb – Sandfell. The trip usually takes four hours. We left Reykjavik and took the Highway 1 (also called Ring Road) to the southwest. The 90 km/h reduction was annoying, but we soon understood why there is such speed limit. It started to blow like crazy, temperatures dropping below zero, and snow was blowing from the mountains. The visibility was suddenly only a few meters. Blizzard. We were glad we could drive at speed of 30 km/h.

The journey was longer than we expected. We arrived late at night to a village called Vík. Due to the high rocks there was a significantly weaker wind than elsewhere on the road, so we decided to stay there overnight. We hoped not to find ourselves lost in snow the following morning. We spent the night in the trunk of our rented Subaru Forester and it was surprisingly comfortable.

Plane wreck in Iceland — *Nearby Vík you can also find the famous plane wreck*

We woke up to see the sunrise on Vík’s beach and the view promptly forced us to leave the car to see the beauty. The black sand beach together with cliffs around was perhaps the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. But the harsh Icelandic climate was showing us its strength. It was so windy that we took just a few pictures and headed back to our car.

Too windy on Hvannadalshnúkur

We decided to continue towards Hvannadalshnúkur. As we drove out of the village Vík, the wind doubled in strength. It was even stronger than the previous day while bringing even more snow. We realized what white darkness looks like. We couldn’t see further than two meters. At that moment we were very glad that we did not borrow a smaller car, which would certainly not handle this furious weather.

There was no rush. We continued very slowly but we still managed to reach the Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull pretty early in the morning. We saw Hvannadalshnúkur for the first time. Unfortunately, it was immediately clear why the guides canceled the climb. Even though the sky was clear, the wind was blowing so hard that it created snow clouds on the mountain. We realized that we wouldn’t see anything during our summit. At that moment we were sure: today we won’t climb anything.

Hvannadalshnúkur seen from the road during crazy wind conditions — *The first view over Hvannadalshnúkur and crazy wind on the road*

We drove to the village Skaftafell which offers perfect accommodation for climbing Hvannadalshnúkur since it’s affordable and closest to the starting point. We ate breakfast and thought about what to do next. Will we take some warming up hike and will we follow the climbing company tomorrow in cloudy and snowy weather? During the breakfast however, the wind miraculously calmed down, not only in the lowlands, but also in the mountains. It was nine o’clock in the morning, which is still relatively late to climb Hvannadalshnúkur, but the sun is already quite high at the beginning of April and sets as late as at half past eight in the evening. ‘What if we try to climb? We have more or less 12 hours until it gets dark. We’ll return if it feels dangerous.”

Perfect weather conditions

After a brief discussion, we decided to go for it. We packed food, water, tea, all necessary climbing equipment and power banks in case our phones run out of battery and of course headlights. We registered ourselves on safetravel.is in case we would need help and started our ascent. In a few minutes I got a message from safetravel.is : “Do you have complete glacier equipment? Do you have experience with alpine and glacier tourism? During this time of year the climb is very challenging.”

We were very pleased that the local authorities were so interested in tourists and wanted to ensure our safety in the mountains. We reported an expected return time at 23 o’clock. If we don’t report two hours after, the organization would send a search. We left the parking lot Sandfell at 11 am. I guess it was the latest leaving time to climb Hvannadalshnúkur of all previous April climbers.

Hiking in Iceland in April — *The first part of the climb was easy. It led on rocks*

The wind completely left the mountains so we could climb only in T-shirts. We quickly ran up the first 1,000 altitude meters across stony and snowy terrain. In this part it was easy to find the way. After about two hours we reached the glacier. It looked clean and without cracks. We were relieved. Time to put crampons on, tie ourselves to the rope and climb up.

Climbing on the glacier

We climbed the glacier more slowly. I often checked the terrain in front of us to make sure there are no cracks. I also checked the GPS regularly to see if we were going in the correct direction. We climbed slowly but steadily up. We expected to reach the plateau several times but there were several endless horizons ahead.

Glacier on the way to Hvannadalshnúkur — *Hopefully, the last horizon ahead*

We came across one crack. Luckily it was narrow and well visible so we easily overcame it. It was interesting to look for cracks. It reminded me of skating on thin ice, which I do with a local Stockholm skating club at the beginning of the skating season in autumn. The thickness of the ice often changes, so every skater must have a stick with a sharp end to examine the thickness of the ice. Here it was similar. I tested regularly to see if there was a crack below blown snow.

The large plateau under summit with glacier under Hvannadalshnúkur — *The large plateau under summit*

At around 6 pm we finally reached the plateau below the summit. “The summit is near now” I encouraged my friend Jakub but I saw that it would still be quite a hike to the top. We followed the Icelandic climber’s instruction and didn’t follow the shortest route to the summit. Instead, go along the contour line around. You will avoid a great risk.

Sunset on top of Hvannadalshnúkur

We continued even more cautiously than before. I checked the surface in front of us before every step. We encountered two more cracks. Both weren’t well visible. After another hour we got to the final climb. The sun was slowly setting which we expected. We knew we would be going down in the dark. The last climb was steep, but could be handled without an ice axe. We passed the beautiful snow-covered rocks and reached the summit. We did it!

Selfie on top of Hvannadalshnúkur — *On top of Iceland*

The wind was blowing on top so it quickly became really cold but the gorgeous view of the setting sun over the cloud-covered valley and ocean behind warmed us up. Indescribable scenery.

The view from the peak Hvannadalshnúkur is amazing — *The view from the peak is amazing*

We knew we were only half way. The descent would still be very difficult so we spent only a few minutes on the top and headed back. We knew it would be dark in about an hour and a half, so we tried to get back to the plateau as quickly as possible so that we would pass as much of the glacier as possible before it got dark. Thanks to the perfect weather conditions our traces remained visible. We didn’t have to look for a new path, so we could go back much faster. Indeed, the Icelandic forecast was correct.

Descent in the shine of northern lights

We managed to pass the plateau before it got dark. Then we had to slow down but it was still easy to follow our steps with our headlights. After two and a half hours we came back from the glacier to the rocks. The toughest and most dangerous part was behind us.

Northern lights in Iceland — *Northern lights on the way down*

We expected the rest of the hike to be easy but we ended up in a crisis. Clouds occurred and the navigation got much more complicated. We couldn’t even see our traces anymore and we got lost several times. Our legs were in pain and we were tired so we decided for a break.

Icelandic dried fish with bread and a bit of tea gave us new energy so we could continue. We walked down in darkness and a bad mood when the sky suddenly cleared up and we saw northern lights. The aurora was so strong that it illuminated the path we wanted to follow. Suddenly we could easily see where to go. Thanks to the aurora we managed to get back safely to the car. After our arrival we texted safetravel.is that we are safe and went to sleep. We fell asleep within a minute.

One week road trip around Iceland

In the morning we were woken up by a group of tourists led by a mountain guide at six o’clock in the morning. It was cloudy and snowy. It was certain that even if the climbers managed to climb Hvannadalshnúkur, they would not see anything. On the other hand, I must admit that we took a risk. If one of us fell into a glacial crack, we would have a big problem. We didn’t have any equipment to rescue each other from a glacier crack. Climbing Hvannadalshnúkur with only two people and without glacier equipment is definitely not an exemplary approach. Based on my experience I definitely recommend to climb the mountain only with an experienced local mountain guide.

Hot springs in Iceland — *Well deserved relax after the summit day*

Anyway the goal of our Icelandic expedition was managed on the first day of our visit and we still had six days on Iceland. Time to explore the island. What was the first stop? Hot springs and relaxation. Are you staying in Iceland longer? Check out my 10 day itinerary for exploring Ring Road Iceland.

My tips for climbing the mountain Hvannadalshnúkur:

I highly recommend hiring a mountain guide or joining a guided tour. This is a very demanding ascent even for experienced climbers due to the extreme weather conditions.
It is necessary to monitor the weather. Climbing Hvannadalshnúkur is only possible in perfect weather conditions.
GPS navigation is necessary.
Complete glacier equipment is recommended.
Recommended accommodation: Hotel Skaftafell

View over the highest mountain of mainland Portugal - Torre

December 3, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Portugal – Torre

Portugal’s highest mountain Torre is located in the northeastern part of the country near the Spanish border. Torre is very unique because it can “boast” of the heaviest traffic on any European highest point. Portuguese builders “honored” the mountain by building a roundabout on the actual highest point. It is a bit disappointing to get there since there are even ruins of old radars around. However, there is so much to explore around so I was very glad to visit the Portuguese mountains. This article will give you all necessary tips to visit Torre and its wonderful surrounding mountains and villages.

What is the highest point of Portugal?

DISPUTE: Before I start telling my story about Torre I have to explain why I selected this mountain as the highest point of Portugal in my project European Peaks (my climb of the highest peak of every European country). Torre is the highest point of mainland Portugal but there is also mountain Pico located in the Azores islands, which is 2,351 m high. However, since the Azores are an autonomous territory with its own government (similar to the “Danish” Faeroe islands), I don’t regard it as the highest point of Portugal.

Important information of the highest point of Portugal – Torre

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Guided tour: Yes, available from a local guide in the city Covilha
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation: HI Serra da Estrela - Pousada de Juventude in the village Penhas da Saúde
Nearest food supply: There is a restaurant and a shop at Torre
Height of the peak: 1,993 m
Time to ascend to Torre: 0 min
Hiking distance: 0 m 
Elevation climbed: 0 m
Water availability on the mountain: There is a restaurant and a shop at Torre
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)  
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Black Super Bock  *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Torre

My story of reaching Torre with personal tips

I climbed Torre as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. My trip to Portugal started in Madrid because all other flights from Malta were insanely expensive. My plan was to take a train to Guarda, a city at the foothills of the Serra de Estrela mountains but the only daily train was unfortunately fully booked. I found out that this train is very popular with Eurail/Interrail travelers so it was fully booked for the whole following week.

Aerial view of the highest point of Portugal - Torre — *The roundabout on Torre*

I had to find a different solution then and I found a good alternative. I took a train to the city Salamanca which was closest to the Portuguese border and I rented a car there to continue. After I reached the city Guarda by car, I took a small dinner – a great piglet. I also bought a bottle of port wine for the evening and set out for the trip to the highest mountain Torre.

Torre “boasts of” a roundabout

I got to the top just before sunset. The climb was not demanding at all because, as I mentioned, there is a road to the top with even a roundabout on the actual peak. I was lucky. The view was beautiful, because I was above the clouds. It’s good that this great weather diverted my attention. Otherwise, the Portuguese mountain is quite tasteless. At the very top, besides the aforementioned roundabout, the Portuguese also built two large satellites, which no one cares about these days. The only thing that seemed to be functional was the local ski lift heading to the top. Obviously there must be a lot of snow in winter. In the middle of August, there were still several snow spots on the slope.

Sunset above the clouds on mountain Torre — *Sunset above the clouds on Torre*

The not so charming Portuguese highest peak did not kill my mood. I had a bottle of port wine made just 100 kilometers away in the famous Douro Valley. I found the best spot to watch the epic sunset above the clouds, opened the bottle and enjoyed the view. Unfortunately, the bottle of the excellent port wine was not bottomless so it was soon time to settle down in the back seat of my rented car and sleep.

A climber drinks a beer on mountain Torre in Portugal during sunset — *A climbed mountain without a peak beer would not be a mountain*

In the morning, I woke up a bit broken and bitten by mosquitoes, which apparently enjoy the local wet climate. It was definitely a mistake to leave a window in the car half-open. Luckily, another nice sunrise woke me up and made me explore the mountain area.

Portugese hidden gems

Amazing hidden gem of Portugal - the village Piodao — *Amazing hidden gem of Portugal – the village Piodao*

Aerial image of an amazing hidden gem of Portugal - the village Piodao — *Amazing hidden gem of Portugal – the village Piodao*

Since I only had half a day, I set out on my way. The plan was to visit the lost villages in the mountains which I had read about several times before and which had really impressed me. I stopped subsequently in the villages of Loriga and Piodao. All of them were amazing. I felt like I was in Vietnam. The villages were surrounded by terraced fields with various crops and high mountains. Moreover, tourists have not discovered this area yet so it felt really peaceful.

Most of all, I liked the village of Piodao where a flock of sheep assisted me when taking pictures. I definitely have to get back here and spend more time. I was a bit sad I couldn’t stay longer. There was a wonderful hotel with view over the whole village and I just wished to stay for a night or two to enjoy the surrounding mountains and views.

Aerial view of cute village Loriga in Portugal — *Another hidden gem of Portugal – the village Loriga*

Tasting Port wine

I had to return the car soon in Spain again, but there was one more hidden gem which I could not miss. Just 100 km to the north, there is the river Douro which is famous for growing grapes used in the production of port wine. I found one smaller Quevedo port wine factory with great references.

When I arrived, I found that I didn’t choose the best time to visit. All the winemakers were having lunch. However, they were very accommodating and quickly came to serve me. In a second, I got 10 kinds of their port wine to taste. I tasted white, red and pink in several age categories. I learned the difference between Ruby and Tawny (Ruby is stored in larger barrels with no air access – the color and flavor doesn’t change much; Tawny is allowed to ripen in smaller barrels; both color and taste change over time) and I strongly regret that I visited this wine bar by car. I had to spit out all the wines after tasting. One of the saddest moments of my European Peaks expedition. Next time I will spend more time in Portugal!

My tips for the mountain Torre:

If you have time, consider biking to the highest point of Portugal from the city of Guarda or Covilha where you can get easily by train.
If you come here in winter to Torre, try skiing at a local slope.
The villages around the national park are amazing and even more interesting than the actual peak. I recommend Loriga and Piodao.
The valley around the river Douro is not far. I think you should not leave Portugal without tasting Porto wine. I tested wine at the Quevedo port wine factory and it was amazing.

Tourist on top of the highest point of Monaco - Chemin des Révoires

November 19, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Monaco – Chemin des Révoires

Monaco’s highest point Chemin des Révoires does not impress. It is located on a street on the border between France and Monaco and is not even marked. There is also no view from so you might expect that I don’t recommend to visit it. But that’s wrong. Thanks to visiting Chemin des Révoires, I got the opportunity to explore one of the most luxurious places in Europe. Monte Carlo is an interesting city where you have a lot to discover. Follow this article for all important information you need before your visit of the highest point of Monaco including all practical information about Monte Carlo and my personal experience. I’ll add also a secret spot from where you can see the whole Monaco.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Monaco – Chemin des Révoires

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Guided tour: No
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation: Hotel Ambassador-Monaco
Height of the peak: 170 m
Hiking distance: 210 m 
Time to ascend to Chemin des Révoires: 4 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 10 m 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Blanche de Monaco ***** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the short walk to Chemin des Révoires

My story of reaching Chemin des Révoires with personal tips

I visited the highest point of Monaco as a part of my project European Peaks during which I reached the highest point of every European country and this was its funny cultural part! After visiting other ministates Vatican and San Marino I was looking forward to another adventure in Monaco. My friends and I started our walk in Monaco’s harbor. We went through a series of stairs to the highest point of the country lying on the street Chemin des Révoires.

It’s expensive to be outside of the EU

Monaco harbour at night — *Monaco at night*

If you are looking for a beautiful view, the highest point of Monaco will disappoint you – it lies on an unmarked spot on the border with France and the view is covered by high residential buildings. I wanted to make sure I was at the correct spot so I turned on the internet on my phone. I started googling to see if we were on the right spot when I suddenly got a message: “Welcome to Monaco. One MB for 3 EUR.” I immediately turned off the phone, but too late. Two minutes of surfing cost me over 30 EUR. This price hurt but I found out the most important information. We found the right spot. My friends and I had reached the highest point of Monaco.

Unforgettable view over Monaco

The view was boring so we headed down to enjoy the atmosphere of the local casino where the James Bond movie Golden Eye was filmed. On the way back to the center we used a popular network of elevators (if you want to be lazy you can also use them to reach the highest point, so you don’t have to climb a single elevation meter). The famous casino Monte Carlo was disappointing. Only slot machines were available for regular tourists. In order to play other games you have to meet a certain dress code and pay 17 euros. Since we didn’t have any suits with us we left the casino.

Instead we decided to visit another viewpoint located in France. The lookout Tête de Chien is regarded as the best spot to see Monte Carlo. Let’s see. Tête de Chien turned out to be exceptional. There are not many places in the world where you can see a whole country from a single viewpoint. Here you can see the whole Monaco.

We didn’t return to Monaco. The accommodation is insanely expensive there, as in the nearby city of Nice. That’s why we headed to the nearby mountains. In the village Auberge De La Madone we found a cozy accommodation with beautiful view for much better price and the village was so cute!

My tips for climbing the mountain Chemin des Révoires:

Unlike San Marino and Vatican where EU data work, Monaco has its own operators. Turn off your data before entering the country if you don’t want to get broke like I did.
The most beautiful view of Monaco is from the mountain Tête de Chien.
If you don’t want to walk, use a series of elevators to get to the highest point of Monaco.
Nearest accommodation: Hotel Ambassador-Monaco

View over fairy tale castle at Monte Titano in San Marino

November 12, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to plan your trip to the highest peak of San Marino – Monte Titano

San Marino is the third smallest country in Europe and probably the oldest existing republic in the world. It was founded in 301. The symbol of this small state is the three towers, which can be found at the three highest points of the country. The highest one, La Cesta (also known as Fratta), stands on the top of Monte Titano. Follow this article for all important information you need before your visit of Monte Titano including practical info, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of San Marino – Monte Titano

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Guided tour: Yes, available with a local guide in San Marino
Fees or restrictions: Yes, you have to pay an entrance fee to reach the highest point. Check out the current price and opening times
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation: Grand Hotel San Marino
Height of the peak: 739 m
Hiking distance: 418 m 
Time to ascend to Monte Titano: 0 hours 11 minutes 
Elevation to reach: 32 m 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: San Marino Bionda **** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Monte Titano

My story of reaching Monte Titano with personal tips

I visited Monte Titano as a part of my project European Peaks during which I reached the highest point of every European country and this was a cool trip! I visited it together with other ministates Vatican and Monaco and it was a fun cultural experience! In my opinion, San Marino was the most interesting visit of all the “dwarf countries”. Let’s see why.

Bad timing

Surprisingly, we had no problem finding a place to park near the highest point, although various guides note that finding a parking spot in San Marino is often a big problem. We left our car at parking lot 7 which is nearest to the highest point of the country – Monte Titano.

*San Marino and its three towers are well visible even from far distance*

We walked up towards the highest of the three San Marino towers, La Cesta, where you can find the highest point of the country. After an eight-minute hike we reached the gates of the tower. Closed on New Year’s Eve. The tower is closed only three days a year and we chose one of these days. No! We went here for nothing. Now we understand why the parking lot was so empty. Well, tomorrow is a day too.

New Year’s swim

Instead of visiting Monte Titano we decided for an alternative plan – a New Year’s swim in the nearby sea. The Adriatic sea was cold but very refreshing. Just the Italians wearing thick jackets couldn’t believe their eyes.

New Year's freezing swim in Adriatic sea — *New Year’s freezing swim*

We woke up early the following day and drove from the beach back to Monte Titano. It was freezing and foggy. Nothing Italians are used to. Final balance: icy roads and several cars in the ditches. Fortunately, we avoided any accident. Soon we were parking again on parking lot 7. We arrived very early, so it was free again.

Fairy tale mountain Monte Titano

View over the highest tower La Cesta of San Marino — *View over the highest tower La Cesta*

We started to hike up towards the tower La Cesta when the fog started to be thinner and thinner. When we reached the peak we were above the clouds. The trip paid off. We felt like in a fairy tale. One big isle with a picturesque castle emerging from a sea of thick clouds. Beautiful view. This time the tower was even open so we could finally reach Monte Titano.

View from the highest point of San Marino - Monte Titano — *View from the highest tower La Cesta*

My tips for climbing the mountain Monte Titano:

Avoid the following three days when visiting San Marino: January 1st, November 2nd, and December 25th. The tower La Cesta is closed on these days.
Arrive to San Marino early in the morning. The parking lots are full soon.

View over the highest point of Vatican - Vatican Hill

November 5, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to reach the highest point of Vatican – Vatican hill

Vatican is the only country in Europe where the highest point is not named so it is simply called Vatican Hill these days. It is nothing to be surprised about. The Vatican has no real mountain. But of course there is a highest point so I had to visit it too if I wanted to visit the highest point of every European country. Vatican Hill is located in the Vatican Gardens and you might think it will be the easiest highest point to reach but it is a surprisingly difficult task. If you want to reach it you need to book a guided tour months in advance due to its popularity. In this article, I will give you all necessary practical tips you need before your visit as well as my own experience from Vatican Hill.

Important information for reaching Vatican Hill

Short description of the ascent of Vatican Hill: Guided tour which must be booked ahead
Essential equipment: No special equipment necessary
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: Yes, you have to pay a ticket for the guided tour. Check the current price
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation: Best reviewed accommodation nearby Vatican - St. Peter Manor
Height of the peak: 75 m
Distance to the top: 3,05 km (the whole guided tour)
Time to ascend to Vatican Hill: 1 hour 40 minutes (the whole guided tour)
Elevation climbed: 86 m (the whole guided tour)
Water availability on the mountain: Yes, there are cafes and shops on the guided tour
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Birra Roma Bionda **** (6 stars maximum) 
Short description of the ascent of Vatican Hill: Guided tour which must be booked ahead
Essential equipment: No special equipment necessary
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: Yes, you have to pay a ticket for the guided tour. Check the current price
Camping allowed: No
Height of the peak: 75 m
Distance to the top: 3,05 km (the whole guided tour)
Time to ascend to Vatican Hill: 1 hour 40 minutes (the whole guided tour)
Elevation climbed: 86 m (the whole guided tour)
Water availability on the mountain: Yes, there are cafes and shops on the guided tour
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Birra Roma Bionda **** (6 stars maximum)

Map of Vatican Hill’s location

My story of reaching Vatican Hill with personal tips

I visited Vatican hill as a part of my project European Peaks during which I reached the highest point of every European country and this was a cool trip! I booked a week to stay in Italy and I also visited the highest point of Monaco and San Marino. These “dwarf” countries are so special!

Visit of European ministates

This time I traveled with my girlfriend Joanne and two good friends from Sweden, Chilean Emiliano and his Swedish girlfriend Anna. Our journey began in Rome, a city which is regarded by many people as the most beautiful city in the world. I had never visited Rome before so I was very curious about it. We selected our accommodation as close as possible to the Vatican in order to visit the highest point of the country early in the morning. This is the best way to avoid the crowds of tourists that are famous for Rome.

Tickets to Vatican gardens

It was the right decision. We could see the walls of the Vatican and the famous St. Peter’s Basilica right from our window . It is the largest church in the world. It is 211 meters long and 27 meters wide.

St. Peter's Square in Vatican without tourists during sunrise — *St. Peter’s Square is without tourists* *during sunrise*

The next day I let my friends sleep and I got up early to welcome the sun at St. Peter’s Basilica. I wanted to take the shortest way but I was still sleepy so I went in the opposite direction. In the end I circled the entire Vatican. I vainly hoped that the Vatican had several entrances. When I finally found the St. Peter’s square the sun just started to rise. It was beautiful and the square was completely empty. I was the only tourist there. I took a panorama picture of the square and came back to our accommodation to pick up my friends for a pre-booked tour of the Vatican Gardens.

View over Vatican gardens from the Dome of st. Peter's Basilica — *View over Vatican gardens and the highest point Vatican Hill from the Dome of st. Peter’s Basilica*

Getting the tickets to Vatican gardens was the biggest challenge to reach the Vatican’s highest point. It must be ordered months ahead because they are sold out very quickly. The advantage of the ticket is that a visit to the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museums are included. This time “climbing” will be accompanied by a rich cultural program.

Thanks to the confusing morning I knew this time exactly where we should go for the tour, so we got there in time. We skipped a kilometer long line with our pre-purchased ticket and we went looking for our guide.

Exciting pope stories on Vatican Hill

Unlike the other highest points, the visit of the highest point of Vatican was not physically demanding. On the other hand one must be patient. Before we reached the Vatican Hill we had to listen to many histories of different popes. Our guide turned out to be a big fan of all the popes, telling us both her personal anecdotes as well as passed on stories about thirteen of them. Her tour took over two hours. When we got to the “peak”, I was glad to have a secret escape for a while to take some photos and to take a break from the pope stories.

*Selfie from the highest point of Vatican gardens*

A visit to the gardens was worth it anyway. The Vatican gardens are charming. The Pope is a happy man that he can stroll through such natural and calm beauty every day in the middle of a busy city.

Unbelievable view over Rome

Although the highest point of the Vatican is in the gardens, some also regard the viewpoint of St. Peter’s Cathedral as the highest point. Of course we could not miss it. We planned it for the next day, again in the early morning to avoid queues. Opening hours from 7 am saved us again from crowds and we basically had the whole viewpoint of Rome for ourselves. The view from the dome of the cathedral is truly monumental. Those who visit Rome should have this place on top of their must-see list.

View from the Dome of st. Peter's Basilica in Vatican over Rome — *The view from the Dome of st. Peter’s Basilica*

After a four-day visit of Rome, I was thinking if it was really the most beautiful city in the world. From a historical point of view, it probably has the most interesting monuments I have ever seen. I agree with that. I wasn’t impressed though with the overall picture of the city. The main disadvantage of Rome is the excessive tourism. From lunch time on, the city is overcrowded. If you want to visit any museums or viewpoints you have to spend a long time in queues. Although I was glad that my expedition provided me with this cultural bonus, I was looking forward to the mountains again.

View from the Altar of the Fatherland over Colosseum — *Another viewpoint which I enjoyed a lot is from the Altar of the Fatherland*

My tips for visiting Rome and Vatican Hill:

Get up early and visit the main sights before other tourists wake up.
The most beautiful view in Rome is from St. Peter’s Cathedral and from the Altar of the Fatherland.
Many tickets can be purchased in advance on the internet. For example, if you want to avoid a several hours long queue for Colosseum tickets, buy them online.
Nearest recommended accommodation: St. Peter Manor

Aerial view of the highest peak of Belarus - Dzyarzhynskaya Hara

June 11, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to plan a trip to the highest peak of Belarus – Dzyarzhynskaya Hara

Belarus’ highest mountain Dzyarzhynskaya Hara belongs to the less interesting high points of countries around the world. It’s only 345 meters high and its location isn’t very pleasing. There are ruins of an old factory next to it. Despite that my trip to Belarus was still very interesting. Do you wonder why? Follow my tips for your visit of Belarus’ highest point including my personal tips.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Belarus – Dzyarzhynskaya Hara

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes but not recommended (the surrounding isn't very pleasing)
Nearest accommodation/food supply: I don't know. Google Maps work badly there but it's close to Minsk where you can get both food and accommodation
Height of the peak: 345 m
Hiking distance: 130 m 
Time to ascend : 2 min 
Water availability on the mountain: I don't know. Google Maps work badly there but it's close to Minsk where you can get both food and accommodation
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Lidskoe Pshenichnoe *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the short walk to Dzyarzhynskaya Hara

My story of reaching Dzyarzhynskaya Hara with personal tips

I visited the highest point of Belarus as a part of the European Peaks project during which I climbed the highest point of every European country. After returning from Iceland, I rested in Stockholm and gathered strength for the next big trip to visit the rest of the former Soviet Union countries (Belarus, Ukraine, Moldova). I planned the start of this trip for the end of April to welcome the arrival of spring. My journey began in Belarus where I met my high school friends Mates and Jeňa. What will we experience in Belarus?

Visa difficulties

Belarus was open for a short time for tourists. It was finally possible to spend 30 days in the country without a visa. The only condition is that you had to arrive and leave the country to / from Minsk airport.

I didn’t know much about Belarus before arriving so we decided to educate ourselves on a free guided tour in Minsk. The capital turned out to be virtually without monuments, as most of them were destroyed during World War II. Unlike other countries, the Soviet leadership decided not to restore the original Belarusian architecture and built instead a lot of concrete monsters. As a demonstration I provide a picture of our accommodation where we booked an airbnb flat.

Minsk and its brutalist architecture — *Minsk and brutalist architecture*

I was mostly surprised that there are many cozy cafes and pubs in Minsk. According to the guide they were created just a few years ago in response to the growing number of people working in the IT business. They created a demand for better services. Unfortunately, these places are not affordable for the common residents with an average salary of €300 per month.

Radish vodka

Unfortunately, my friends and I didn’t have any better idea after the tour than visiting some of these local businesses, where, of course, the tasting of the local vodka couldn’t be missed. We were served like bosses. We got free fireworks when we got our main dish and we were getting free radish vodka in between the courses. What a welcome to Belarus.

The evening turned into a party with local music and dances. I would like to say that we will never forget the party but unfortunately I didn’t remember much the following day. But I remembered the most important thing. We were taking a taxi with a very friendly driver called Sasha who could even speak English. He promised us that he will take us to the highest Belarusian point.

Climbing Dzyarzhynskaya Hara by taxi

The next day I found his number in my phone and dialed it. For approximately 40 EUR we ordered his taxi services for half a day. He showed up in an hour and our journey began.

Dzyarzhynskaya Hara is located about 50 kilometers from Minsk so I was curious what the Belarusian countryside will look like. The journey outside the capital was very interesting. Views of the concrete complexes were soon replaced by large fields and occasional villages. The roads remained half-broken all the way. Sasha was a good driver. I would almost say that the trip was comfortable but then the head restraints and seat belts in the car wouldn’t be missing. I didn’t notice these details last night.

Dzyarzhynskaya Hara from my drone's eyes — *Dzyarzhynskaya Hara from my drone’s eyes*

Sasha managed to find the very highest point of Belarus although it was six kilometers away from what Google Maps said. At that moment, I was really glad we went on a journey with him.

Selfie from the top of Dzyarzhynskaya Hara — *On top of Dzyarzhynskaya Hara*

I am quite interested in what Sasha thought about our trip to Dzyarzhynskaya Hara. He was just laughing to himself the whole time, especially when I showed my complete photo equipment and photographed one of the ugliest places of my expedition for about an hour. Our visit of Belarus and Dzyarzhynskaya Hara was for sure special.

*Random factory of whatever across the road of Dzyarzhynskaya Hara*

My tips for climbing the mountain Dzyarzhynskaya Hara:

Be careful when looking for the highest point in Belarus. Google Maps show the wrong spot. Use mapy.cz instead.
If you rent a car, keep in mind that there are many holes in the road.
Taste radish vodka in Minsk. The name sounds scary, but the taste is very interesting.

June 4, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to reach the highest point of the European side of Turkey – Mahya Dagi

Mahya Dağı in the Turkish Strandja Mountains is probably the only mountain in the project European Peaks where I didn’t like my stay and I was looking forward to leave. At the top there is a base of the Turkish army and they don’t like to be spied on or even photographed. I would like to mention something positive about climbing the top of Mahya Dağı, but unfortunately there is no such thing. You can reach the summit by car and there is a nice view but nothing remarkable. Anyway, this is your guide how to reach the highest point of European side of Turkey including my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of of European side of Turkey – Mahya Dagi

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Height of the peak: 1,031 m
Hiking distance: 0 m - you can park just next to the highest point
(If you want to walk to the highest point there is a heliport nearby the peak and you can park next to it)
Time to ascend: 0 minutes (you can park just next to the highest point) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Efes lager ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Mahya Dagi

My story of reaching Mahya Dagi with personal tips

I climbed the highest point of European side of Turkey as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Mahya Dağı with an elevation of 1,031 m is the highest point of the European part of Turkey only. The highest absolute point in Turkey is Mount Ararat with a height of 5,137 meters. However, it is located in the Asian part of the country, so it isn’t included in this project.

Turkish flag in Istanbul — *Welcome to Turkey*

I visited Turkey by myself. It was actually just a 24 hour stopover on the way to Russia to climb Elbrus, the highest point of Europe. I landed at Istanbul airport, picked up my rental car and drove to the west.

Crazy Istanbul traffic

Soon I discovered the main obstacle on the way to Mahya Dağı – transport. Istanbul is Europe’s largest city, so it isn’t surprising that it is known for traffic jams. Since I landed in the Asian part of Istanbul I had to drive through the whole city. It was rush hour so I had fun being stuck in traffic.

My goal was to stay as close as possible to Mahya Daği so that I could get up early in the morning and climb the summit during sunrise. The mountain isn’t a popular tourist destination so there weren’t many possibilities. In the end I stayed at a hotel in the village Saray about one hour’s drive from Mahya Daği.

Due to the traffic jams I arrived at the hotel very late. I was surprised how lively the local restaurant was. Why is everyone so happy? I realized it when I got to my room. It was Ramadan. Muslims came to life after dark. I was tired though and didn’t join the festivities. Instead I went to sleep to wake up for sunrise at Mahya Daği.

Dangerous selfie

I woke up at 4:30. It was tough to get out of bed but it was worth it. The advantage of traveling early was that the roads were completely empty. I reached the summit of Mahya Daği exactly at sunrise. I stopped about 300 meters below the mountain with a nice view on the summit to take some pictures.

After picture time, I continued up. Since there is a military base and since it is strictly prohibited to photograph on Mahya Daği (I had read from previous visitors that there is even a risk of an arrest because of taking photos) I drove as quietly as possible not to disturb the potential security on the top. I needed at least one photo from there.

Heliport at Mahya Daği with a view — *Heliport at Mahya Daği*

I parked at an old heliport just below the summit. I had a nice view of the morning shadow of the mountain. It was obvious that Mahya Daği isn’t that small of a hill. I walked the last hundred meters to the summit in silence. I must say I felt respect. Barbed wires, huge photo-prohibiting signs, and a frightening-looking radar suggested that the Turkish armed forces would really get rid of the photo shooting Jarda quickly. Being arrested in Turkey has never been one of my dreams so I secretly took only one decent selfie and returned to my car. Overall, it was my shortest visit of all the European mountains.

Slefie at the highest point of European side of Turkey — *Due to this picture I could have been in jail*

My mission was complete. I still had a half day before my flight to Russia so I took advantage of it and discovered Istanbul. I mostly liked the Grand Bazaar which is visited by over a quarter of a million people every day. You’ll find everything there. I bought the perfect energy supplies for Elbrus in the form of dried fruit and Turkish delight.

A boy jumps into water in Istanbul — *Quick jump to Istanbul*

My tips for climbing the mountain Mahya Dağı:

Mahya Dağı isn’t a very interesting place. However, adrenaline enthusiasts will enjoy visiting the summit. Where else in Europe can you be arrested for just taking a photo?
Avoid rush hour.

April 9, 2023 • 0 Comment

The highest peak of Jordan – Jabal Umm ad Dami

Jordan impressed me like no other country before. It has so much to offer. I didn’t have high expectations before my trip but I enjoyed every single day in the country at the crossroads of the continents of Asia, Africa and Europe. The best experience was definitely the climb of the highest point of the country. Do you wonder why? Follow my story of visiting Jabal Umm ad Dami.

Date of summit: 6th December 2022 9:30 
Traveling mode: Hiking
Height of the peak: 1.854m
Hiking distance: 2.78km 
Hiking time: 1 hours 26 minutes  
Elevation climbed: 359m
Map of my journey to Jabal Umm ad Dami: Suunto map
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Petra lager beer 5% *** (6 stars maximum)

It took me more than four years after the last time to visit a country outside Europe again. That’s a lot compared to the times before covid and my expedition European Peaks when I usually made one trip a year outside the old continent. I simply couldn’t wait for such an adventure. I am happy that my friends Jan and Mates joined me for this trip so we all could enjoy the rich history and culture, amazing food and astonishing landscapes of Jordan.

This time, I will skip describing the start of our trip when we visited the Dead Sea and Petra (btw, both very exciting and unique tourist attractions), and I will move directly to Wadi Rum, a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan which hides the highest mountain of the country – Jabal Umm ad Dami.

Reading a book at Dead Sea — *My friend Mates reading a book at Dead Sea*

How to climb the highest mountain of Jordan – Jabal Umm ad Dami?

Wadi rum is a large desert and it offers such wonderful sceneries that today it is a protected area that has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2011. No wonder that it is popular among tourists. They usually visit Wadi Rum by organized tours booked in advance. I would recommend the same, especially if you come during the high season (March-May, September-November). Tour operators are limited and the available spots fill in fast. Even though we visited Wadi Rum during the low season (early December), we also booked our trip in advance. We made a thorough research and selected Wadi Rum Magic Tours which had the best reviews.

It turned out to be an excellent choice. We booked a two day tour during which we were supposed to climb the mountain on day 1 and we still had a chance to explore the most interesting sights of the desert during day 2. Our guide Arid was a local bedouin who had a great experience with both the highest mountain and the most interesting sights in the desert. He was also a skillful cook and prepared tasty local dishes which we appreciated a lot after long days in the desert. What we enjoyed most though was his flexibility and sense of humour. We had a lot of fun together and he was okay with our wish to replan the program a bit and make the summit of Jabal Umm ad Dami for sunset.

Jeep tour in Wadi Rum

When I travel abroad and visit new places I always try to schedule my visits of the most interesting and famous places differently than others to skip the crowds. I am very happy we did the same in Wadi Rum. Similarly like anywhere else, all the organized tours follow similar patterns. All start at the same time, follow the sights one by one. Even here most of the jeeps go together and you are basically in the crowd the whole day. If you make a trip to Wadi Rum, try to ask to start earlier for instance.

We had another trick for the highest mountain of Jordan. We heard that nobody climbs Jabal Umm ad Dami at sunset time so we asked our guide if we could do so. He became curious about this idea. He wanted to witness the views during late hours as well so we changed the normal plan and set out for the peak after lunch.

It was perfect because even other interesting sights in the desert were already without other tourists. On the way we managed to see for example the chicken and egg rocks where we had so much time for ourselves that our guide could boast of his cool climbing skills. We were definitely impressed because he managed a tough boulder problem even while smoking a cigarette. We took a few pictures and moved finally towards the highest mountain of the country.

The chicken and egg in Jordan desert — *The chicken and egg*

Picnic at Jabal Umm ad Dami

The highest point of Jordan is far from all the bedouin settlements. It is situated nearby Saudi Arabia’s border and it takes over an hour to drive to the foot of the mountain from the Wadi Rum village. It takes time to make it to the top compared other sights in the desert but it brings the advantage that not many people are interested in the climb. If you want to experience something unique in the desert and without crowds, it is an excellent opiton.

We started our climb at 2:30pm. Here I wondered: Why so early when we want to be at the top for sunset? The path is rocky and partly sandy. I recommend high and closed shoes. I had outdoor running shoes which often work perfectly for such hikes but it was a big mistake this time. If you don’t want to have your shoes full of sand, choose something more durable. Alternatively, take it easy and behave like our guide. He decided to climb in his flip flops (no, this was a joke. Flip flops might be okay for locals because they grew up in the desert and are very skillful in the mountains but proper equipment is recommended here, especially if you are in the desert for the first time).

In general, the equipment of our guide was a bit funny. Besides his “shoes”, I also have to leave here a comment about his “backpack”. Instead of a rucksack, he carried up a small duffel bag. Lol. Regardless of the equipment, the guide was the fastest of us and while waiting for us, he was collecting local herbs to make a surprise for us at the top.

Once we successfully climbed the peak (btw, not a long climb as we made it in one and half hours but still a little challenge because of slippery sand), Arid set up a fire and made a very nice tea. How many times can you say you had a tea from the herbs of the mountain made freshly on the mountain top?

Cooking tea at Jabal Umm ad Dami — *Happy Arid cooking tea*

Wonderful sunset over the whole Jordan

Here comes the answer to my question. The biggest advantage of our early summit was that we could enjoy a wonderful time on the mountain top. It was perfect weather and we were sunbathing while drinking the tea and looking over Wadi Rum desert on one side and Saudi Arabia on the other. What a moment it was! I usually spend some time on mountain tops but I am mostly busy photographing the landscapes. Here, we stayed over two hours and most of the times we just relaxed and enjoyed the wonderful views and talk with our guide.

After the epic sunset our steps led back down. Half of the way was still during daylight but we needed headlamps for the second part. If you want to climb the mountain to see sunset, don’t forget them. When it got dark I was a bit scared for our guide. The surface was sometimes very slippery and difficult to see but my worries were unnecessary. Of course, the guide made it fastest even on the way down, despite his flip flops.

The toughest part of the day was on the way to our camp by jeep. December nights are pretty cold so don’t forget a feather jacket. You will sit on the back of a jeep outside so you need proper clothing not to freeze to death. Luckily, we had warm clothes so we survived the 90 minutes long journey. We arrived a bit cold but our day ended with an amazing bedouin buffet in a desert tent village. Good night and a new fairy tale coming soon!