Norway Archives - The Best Viewpoints

Tent at Reinebringen viewpoint in Lofoten

April 14, 2024 • 0 Comment

The best viewpoints and hikes of Lofoten islands

I have visited over 60 countries around the world and I love many places in each corner of our planet. I can imagine visiting some places again but it often doesn’t happen because my desire to see new places is stronger. There is just one spot which I visit regularly because it stole my heart. It’s called Lofoten islands and it’s the most special place I have visited so far. The sharp cliffs rising from the sea together with the exceptional climate are simply wonderful. It’s a perfect spot for anyone who loves hiking, nature and viewpoints. If you haven’t visited Lofoten yet, my article might convince you to do so soon! Here are my tips for the best hiking trips + some extra special tips for resting days in this Norwegian paradise.

When is the best time to visit Lofoten?

Before I name all the wonderful places across Lofoten islands, let’s start with this important question. The climate of Lofoten is very special and conditions vary a lot across the seasons. It’s also important to consider when Lofoten islands are busy and when you can enjoy the islands with less tourists. I recommend the follwing:

Try to avoid July and August. These are the most busy months on Lofoten islands due to summer holidays and you might spend a lot of time in crowds or traffic jams.
For summer conditions, choose the first half of June if you want to experience the midnight sun or September which gives you opportunity to still experience warm and pleasant weather and see northern lights at the same time.
If you would like to see Lofoten under snow, visit the islands from mid February to mid April. These are the best winter months since the days are already longer. Bear in mind that if you would like to visit any of the mountains below you have to be properly equipped. Snowshoes/skis are recommended and avalanche knowledge and equipment are required for some mountains which you access via steep terrain.

In case you can only visit Lofoten during the high season, I recommend you to make the most popular hikes (Reinebringen, Kvalvika + Ryten) during times when other people sleep to enjoy them without crowds. This means setting your alarm for early mornings.

Since the Lofoten islands are more and more spectacular the further the south you come, I will write about the hikes in the order from south to north. If you have limited time for a Lofoten visit, this is also my recommendation: spend most of your time in the south.

Before every hike, check properly the local weather forecast. Weather conditions at Lofoten can change dramatically and very quickly. Be careful on your hikes!

Reinebringen – the most popular viewpoint

Difficulty: Moderate
Short description of the ascent: The hike is relatively short but very steep. It can be tricky and slippery in snowy or icy conditions or after strong rains. 
Parking: Free - Djupfjord or paid in Reine village
Camping allowed: No
Best accommodation nearby: Wonderful rorbuer at Reine/Sakrisøy
Starting point: parking lot Djupfjord
Height of the peak: 448m
Distance to the top: 2.2 km (one way)
Time to ascend from Djupfjord to Reinebringen viewpoint: 50 minutes (one way)
Elevation climbed: 442m

Let’s start with the most popular hike of the whole Lofoten. If you google pictures of Lofoten, you will likely see the view from Reinebringen first and I understand why. It’s wonderful! I visited the mountain in September 2017 and it was still allowed to tent on the top at that time. I will never forget the wonderful, sunrise, sunset and very strong northern lights during the night. It was one of my most powerful travel experiences of all time!

Secret tip: Most hikers visit just the first viewpoint on the way to Reinebringen, not the actual top. Climb 300 elevation meters more and you will likely be on the top on your own (see the map above). It’s worth going further than others. You can then continue down to Djupfjord and walk along the fjord back to the car.

Tenting at Reinebringen, Lofoten on a mountain top — *Tenting on Reinebringen is unforgettable. A pity it isn’t allowed anymore*

Northern lights above Reinebringen at Lofoten islands — *I will never forget this night at Reinebringen. This was an amazing show!*

Munken – my favourite viewpoint

Difficulty: Moderate
Short description of the ascent: Long hike with a bit steep final part
Parking: Sørvågen
Camping allowed: Yes but not everywhere. See restricted areas at Lofoten Friluftsråd website
Best accommodation nearby: The Tide - Rorbuer in Sørvågen
Starting point: parking lot at Sørvågen
Height of the peak: 770m
Distance to the top: 6.1 km (one way)
Time to ascend from Sørvågen to Munken: 4 hours 30 minutes (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 843m (one way)

If you are at Lofoten islands during high season and want to avoid crowds on Reinebringen, you can consider my personal favourite mountain Munken instead. It’s less visited since the hike is longer but the mountain is higher and that’s why the view is even better! From Munken you can see the whole Reinefjorden, Forsfjorden and Kjerkfjorden! On the way, you will pass Munkebu hut where you can spend the night if you are a member of Norwegian Tourist Association DNT. It’s worth becoming a member if you are planning a longer trip in Norway. You can also tent on the way but check the possible locations on Lofoten Friluftsråd website in advance.

Sunrise view of Lofoten from a mountain top — *Sunrise at Munken is like from a different planet*

Hermannsdalstinden – the toughest hike in Lofoten islands

Difficulty: Very hard
Short description of the ascent: A long hike with very steep final part 
Parking: Sørvågen
Camping allowed: Yes but not everywhere. See restricted areas at Lofoten Friluftsråd website
Best accommodation nearby: The Tide - Rorbuer in Sørvågen
Starting point: parking lot at Sørvågen
Height of the peak: 1029m
Distance to the top: 10km (one way)
Time to ascend from Sørvågen to Hermannsdalstinden: 8 hours (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 1265m up and 420m down (Note: one way! The altitude data in the map below is incorrect)

If you are looking for a bigger challenge, consider climbing the highest mountain of the most southern island of Lofoten Moskenesøya. Hermannsdalstinden is more remote than other popular mountains in the area so the hike is much more demanding. You will also have to scramble on the final hike since it becomes very steep in some parts. But the view is worth all the effort. The panoramic view is simply fantastic!

TIP: The hike is very long. It’s possible to do during one full day but it’s tough. I split this trip with my friends in two days:

Day one – hike to Munkebu hut where we spent the night in a tent.
Day two – climb to Hermannsdalstinden and descent to the starting point.

View from Hermannsdalstinden at Lofoten islands — *View from Hermannsdalstinden*

Kvalvika + Ryten – the most popular hike in Lofoten

Difficulty: Moderate
Short description of the ascent: The hike is relatively easy but the overall elevation is pretty high 
Parking: Parking lot at Torsfjord (two options - see the beginning and end of the map)
Camping allowed: Yes, camping on Kvalvika beach is a wonderful experience
Best accommodation nearby: Heloíse`s accommodation in Fredvang is closest but if you have a car I recommend to stay at wonderful Reine/Sakrisøy
Starting point: parking lot Torsfjord 
Height of the peak: 543m
Distance to the top: 7.8 km (whole round trip)
Time to ascend from Torsfjord via Kvalvika to Ryten and back: 4 hours 
Elevation climbed: 855m

This is another very popular hike so I recommend choosing a time outside of the main season. It can be difficult to find a parking spot. This hike has has two highlights – the visit of wonderful Kvalvika beach and the beautiful view from mountain Ryten. If you have a tent, consider camping at Kvalvika. It offers perfect camping opportunities and you can also witness midnight sun from there.

Tenting at Kvalvika beach at Lofoten during sunset — *Tenting at Kvalvika* *is a full Lofoten experience*

View from Ryten to Kvalvika beach in a natural windshield — *Enjoying view from Ryten in a natural windshield*

Mulstøheia – hidden gem of Lofoten

Difficulty: Easy
Short description of the ascent: The hike is short and easy 
Parking: Yttersand
Camping allowed: Yes, tenting on the mountain is wonderful
Best accommodation nearby: Heloíse`s accommodation in Fredvang is closest but if you have a car I recommend to stay at wonderful Reine/Sakrisøy
Starting point: Yttersand
Height of the peak: 295m
Distance to the top: 1.7 km (one way)
Time to ascend from Yttersandto Mulstøheia: 1 hour (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 277m

I visited the mountain Mulstøheia already four times because it’s very easy and quick to get to the top and the view is spectacular. I don’t understand why but it isn’t popular among tourists yet so you can often enjoy the views on your own. Highly recommended.

Bbq with Norwegian salmon on Mulstøheia at Lofoten — *Bbq with Norwegian salmon on Mulstøheia*

Winter view on snowy Lofoten islands from a mountain top — *Mulstøheia is easy to reach even during winter months*

Hoven – easy hike to warm up before bigger adventures

Difficulty: Easy
Short description of the ascent: The hike is short and easy 
Parking: Parking lot next to golf area
Camping allowed: Yes
Best accommodation nearby: Lofoten Links Lodges or Hov camping
Starting point: Parking lot next to golf area
Height of the peak: 367m
Distance to the top: 1.7 km (one way)
Time to ascend from parking lot to Hoven: 1 hour (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 331m

Don’t laugh at me but I climbed this mountain because the meaning of Hoven in my mother tongue Czech is “shit”. I was very curious how the view from “shit” will look like and I was very nicely surprised. It’s wonderful! Hoven is surprisingly far from any other Lofoten mountains and therefore you can see very far in all directions. Besides Lofoten islands can you also see Vesterålen.

Lonely Hoven island and mountain at Lofoten — *Lonely Hoven on an exceptional lowland at Lofoten*

Store Kongstinden – the best viewpoint of Svolvær

Difficulty: Easy
Short description of the ascent: The hike is short and easy 
Parking: Parking lot next to Litl-Kongsvatnet
Camping allowed: Yes but not everywhere. See restricted areas at Lofoten Friluftsråd website
Best accommodation nearby: Anker Brygge or other options in Svolvaer
Starting point: Parking lot next to lake Litl-Kongsvatnet
Height of the peak: 552m
Distance to the top: 2.2 km (one way)
Time to ascend from parking lot to Store Kongstinden: 1 hour (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 515m

The largest city on Lofoten is called Svolvær and lies on island Austvågøya. The city is worth visiting for its cosy islands, typical local architecture and cute city centre but the best about the city is seeing it from mountains around. My favourite hike leads to mountain Store Kongstinden and from there you have a wonderful view over the city. In winter you can take a shortcut to the top by local ski lift. Have you ever seen a skiing centre with a better view before?

Sunrise view of Svolvær at Lofoten from a mountain — *Svolvær is waking up during sunrise in September*

My extra tips for you: What you shouldn’t miss on Lofoten islands

Now you know my favourite hikes. Of course, there are more options and you probably won’t make a mistake if you choose another hike. Lofoten islands are beautiful everywhere. Unfortunately, you can’t really rely on good weather at Lofoten so it’s good to have some plan B besides hiking. Below you can find some more personal tips:

The most tasty food at Lofoten: Anitas sjømat AS and their fish burger – I have tried many dishes in Norway but I have to admit I was often disappointed. Most of the dishes I had were overpriced and not worth the money. Anitas sjømat is an exception. Their food and especially fish and shrimps are amazing! This is a must when you visit Lofoten. I slept in nearby traditional houses – Rorbuer at Sakrisøy and it was an fastastic experience and it was my every day lunch. What a holiday I had there!
The best beaches to visit at Lofoten: Besides the remote beach which I recommended in the article before (Kvalvika), I also highly recommend the beach Unstad which is famous for its surfing conditions. You can marvel at amazing surfers there making tricks in the freezing water or you can try it too. There is a surfing rental shop. You can find one more surfing beach nearby village Flakstad and I also recommend visiting the wonderful sandy beaches at the villages Ramberg and Utakleiv. Btw, all of these beaches are facing the north, so they offer perfect view of midnight sun and northern lights when it actually gets dark.
The best sauna: I skipped one sandy beach on purpose in the point before because there is one more reason to come there. On a beach in village Hov under mountain Hoven, you can find a beautiful sandy beach with… a sauna. Jumping into the freezing water after sweating inside is another must experience from Lofoten.
The most cosy villages: There are many wonderful villages at Lofoten islands. Here are my favourite ones: Reine and Sakrisøy on the most southern island Moskenesøya, Ramberg and Vikten on Flakstadøya and Henningsvær and Svolvær on Austvågøya.
If you want to take a break from hiking, take a beautiful Lofoten cruise from Svolvaer to the most beautiful fjord of Lofoten – Trollfjord.
Would you like to see northern lights and you don’t know how? Read my northern lights guide with tips or book a guided tour at Svolvaer with local professionals.

Are you looking for more hiking tips? Check out my tips from other countries too. Here is a list of my hiking articles.

Strong northern lights at Kvalvika beach, Lofoten — *Hiking in winter at Lofoten is amazing too!*

February 25, 2024 • 0 Comment

Experience TOP 40 winter activities in Scandinavia

In 2012, I decided to move to Sweden to study and it was the best decision of my life because I love winter and here I can enjoy it fully! Since then, I managed to try a lot of winter activities in Scandinavia while others are still waiting on the list. Take a look at well-known and unknown winter activities that you can experience in Scandinavia.

1. Ice skating

Let’s start with the best winter activity you can do in the capital of Sweden. The region of Stockholm has hundreds of lakes of different sizes and together with the large areas in the Stockholm archipelago you have the best ice skating opportunities. Since it doesn’t snow much in Stockholm, you can skate pretty much anytime from the season start (usually November or December) until the ice melts (most often some time in April). If you would like to experience real freedom this is a winter activity for you. Imagine skating the whole day on the endless Swedish sea around islands and cute villages on islands. Would you like to join for a trip? In my free time I’m working as an ice skating guide. Learn more at my in-depth article about skating on natural ice. You can also take a look at how it is to fall through ice below.

*Skating in the city centre of Stockholm*

2. Cross country skiing – classic style

Let’s move to another traditional Scandinavian winter sport – skiing. Did you know that there are several kinds of skiing? We will go through all of them in this article. Let’s start with the most known skiing style which is classic cross-country skiing. Have you heard about Vasaloppet? This oldest cross country skiing race in the world has already attracted more than 1,700,000 participants around the world. The race is 90km long and promises an unbelieveable atmosphere not only for the racers but also for the spectators. Visit the finish of the race Mora and you won’t regret it.

If you would like to try cross country skiing yourself, many places across the country offer cross country skiing courses. Try it, it’s so much fun! And if you fall for skiing, after a few years of training you can participate in Vasaloppet too. Take a look at what my Vasaloppet experience was like.

*Start of Vasaloppet with over 15000 participants*

3. Cross country skiing – skating style

Recently, the skating technique of cross-country skiing has become more and more popular. The technique originated in the early 20th century and became widespread in the 1980s following Bill Koch’s success at the 1982 World Cross Country Championships. In order to compare the differences between the two cross-country styles, I managed to complete the Vasaloppet with both techniques. Which one do you think is better for such a long race?

4. Downhill Skiing

If you want to be even faster, go for downhill skiing. On downhill skis, you can easily reach speed above 100 km/h. There are many ski resorts around Scandinavia but you will find the best one in Åre. It offers the most tracks and most slopes. Another advantage is that Åre offers slopes for everyone regardless if you are a beginner, intermediate, advanced or pro skier.

You might be surprised but there is also a small ski resort in the middle of Stockholm. Hammarbybacken offers even a world cup competition for pro skiers. Even though the hill is relatively short, it also has its black slope which is perfect for a slalom race.

*Skiing in Åre can lead to ski jumping too*

5. Snowshoe hiking

Let’s take a break from skiing and let’s take a look at snowshoeing. Snow shoes are perfect for hikes in areas with a lot of snow. You’ll love the feeling of crunching snow under your feet. My personal favourite place for snow shoeing is Skuleskogen national park where you can hike daily 10-20 km and stay over in local huts, even free of charge. There you can have a great time having a barbecue under the Northern lights.

Beautiful snowshoe location in Swedish mountains (Jämtlands Triangel) — *This is another beautiful snowshoe location in Swedish mountains (Jämtlands Triangle)*

6. Watching Northern lights shows

Have I just mentioned Northern lights? It is the most exciting phenomenon to witness in Scandinavia so let’s take a look at them. Aurora Borealis occurs sometimes all around Scandinavia but you have the biggest chance to witness them behind the polar circle. I’m myself fascinated by Northern lights so much that I’m hunting them every time we have a chance to see them in Stockholm. Just keep in mind, you have to be patient to see the lights. If you want to learn more tips about when and where to see Lady Aurora, you can take a look at my Practical Guide to see Northern Lights.

*Admiring northern lights on Lofoten islands in Norway*

7. Ice fishing

Another activity which requires patience but brings a lot of joy is ice fishing. Create a hole in the ice with a special ice drill and catch your dinner. Ice fishing is so popular in Scandinavia that there are even ice fishing competitions. Can you beat the largest fish ever caught on ice in Sweden – 7kg arctic char?

*One of ice fishing competitions in Umeå*

8. Sauna

Are you becoming cold from all this talk about winter sports? I have something for you to warm up. Try a sauna with a jump into freezing water. It is not only a lot of fun but also healthy for your body. According to studies, taking a sauna helps with relaxing and detoxifying your body and Scandinavian countries know it. Therefore, sauna use in Finland, Sweden and Norway already starts in early childhood.

Cooling down in snow after sauna — *If there is no lake or sea to jump in after sauna you can ask your friends to cover you in snow. It works well too!*

9. Ice windsurfing

Let’s go from cold water back to ice. One of the most exciting winter sports I’ve ever tried is ice windsurfing. It is even more exciting than windsurfing on water. If you have a strong enough wind, you can reach speeds faster than 150km/h thanks to the very low resistence of the ice.

10. Snowkiting

The wind can also be utilized for snowkiting. Bring a kite and enjoy it either with skies in the mountains or with skates on a lake. Both are a lot of fun!

11. Ice hockey

Compared to summer, there are not many winter team sports but the existing ones are a lot of fun. You probably know ice hockey which is very popular around Sweden and Finland. Gather a group of friends to play a game or visit a match of Swedish hockey league and enjoy one of the best hockey games you can see in the world.

*When I was studying in the north of Sweden in Umeå we played ice hockey every week with other students*

12. Bandy

Have you already seen ice hockey but would you like to see something even more unique? Visit a match of Bandy. Simply said, it is like ice hockey just on a frozen football field played by 11 players on every side. It is regarded as one of the fastest sports in the world and is only played in northern countries. To give you a taste of the game, look at the best goals made in the Swedish league below.

13. Curling

Another winter team sport requires a lot of precision. Build a team and try curling in one of many curling halls around Scandinavia.

14. Biathlon

Currently, my favourite Olympic winter sport to watch is biathlon. Thanks to the shooting, the races are very unpredictable and that makes it very exciting! You can watch biathlon competitions every winter in Östersund which holds a world cup competition. When I visited one of the races, I was also happy to find out that you can even try biathlon yourself there. It was very cool to try to hit the targets like pro athletes. Now, I will not complain anymore about the biathletes who miss the targets. It’s pretty hard!

15. Winter camping

Do you like hiking and camping? Try it in winter too. There are much less hikers during winter so you can enjoy the nature on your own. It’s very cosy to wake up and have a view over a frozen landscape. As a bonus you won’t be bothered by mosquitoes compared to summer.

*Winter camping with my girlfriend at Jämtlands Triangle*

16. Ice Hotel

Do you prefer sleeping inside? Then, try something special during winter in Sweden. Visit the famous Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi and spend a night in an ice paradise. The hotel is unique every year with decorations made by artists from all around the world!

Once you’re there, don’t forget to take a shot in a glass made of ice and if you’re there with your fiancée, why not to get married there too? The Ice hotel also has a small chapel where couples from all around the world get married.

*Testing if it’s a good idea to get married at the Ice Hotel*

17. Back country skiing

Let’s get back to skiing. There are a few very popular ski activities you can try in Scandinavia. Let’s take a look first at ski touring and back country skiing. The difference is very small and the names are often exchanged with each other. In Scandinavia it’s two very different sports though. Back country skis in Scandinavia are very similar to cross country skis, they are just wider and they are used in free terrain. People often use these skis for travelling longer distances from hut to hut and they are also used for multiday trips with an extra sled where you can carry supplies. Try for example back country skis in popular mountain areas in Sweden such as in Jämtland close to Åre or far in the north at Kungsleden.

*A backcountry skier in the Swedish mountains*

18. Ski touring

Ski touring in Scandinavia is rather associated with off piste skiing. The skis are more similar to downhill skis and people use skins for going up in the hills. These skis are rather used to climb mountains and to enjoy downhill in free terrain rather than long distances. Thanks to ski touring you can for example climb Norway’s highest mountain – Galdhøpiggen.

*Climbing the highest mountain of Scandinavia in winter is a strong experience*

19. Ski jumping

One of the winter activities that I have not yet tried and have only observed so far is ski jumping. But if Eddie the Eagle could do it, why couldn’t I? 🙂

*Ski jumping championship in Falun, Sweden*

20. Heliskiing

Would you like to try world class off piste skiing in the best possible conditions? Try heli skiing behind the polar circle. In Abisko you can join a group of skiers and experience heli skiing.

21. Ice Cross

Have you heard about Ice cross? It’s popular mostly thanks to exciting Red Bull events. Check it out and if you dare, visit the ice cross facility in Stockholm.

22. Dog sledding

One of the most popular activities among visitors to Scandinavia is dog sledding. I have to admit I am a bit afraid of dogs so I haven’t tried it yet but I will one day. It looks very cosy! In addition to my own experience, I also have to see this special race in Norway once.

23. Ice climbing

If you like rock climbing you should definitely also try ice climbing. What about ice climbing directly on the highest waterfall in Sweden or the famous Gudvangen icefall in Norway shown in the movie below? It is also on my to try list this winter.

24. Winter swimming

We have already talked about sauna but did you know that it is very popular to swim in ice cold water without going to the sauna these days? There are even races in cold water in Sweden!

25. Winter kayaking

I prefer to utilize water in the solid state during winter for activities such as skiing or skating but there is also an option to experience an adventure on unfrozen lakes. Enjoy views over snow covered national parks or cities from a kayak. Stockholm offers many opportunities for instance.

*My frozen kayak during a sunrise tour in the Stockholm archipelago*

26. Fat biking

Biking and snow often don’t go together. Slippery roads can be tricky so bikers usually take a break from biking during winter months. Have you heard though about fat biking? These bikes have much thicker tyres so they can be used on snow. Would you like to try?

*My girlfriend testing a fat bike on a beach. It also works very well there. Next time we have to try it on snow!*

27. Car drifting

Let’s stay on snowy roads. Do you like cars? Then, I have a winter activity for you too. North west of Stockholm, there is a special lake where ice drive races are organized. Visit Dalarna and test your driving skills on ice!

28. Yukigassen

Yukigassen will bring you back to the childhood times when you had snowball fights with your friends. It is actually an official snowball competition. As you might guess from the name, it comes from Japan but there are Yukigassen associations in all major northern countries including Sweden. Visit Luleå for a national competition.

29. Sled

Let’s stay in our childhood and let’s enjoy children’s favourite means of transport in winter. Sledding is so much fun even for adults and there is even a sled championship in Sweden every year. Visit SM veckan and compete in Alpin Rodel.

30. Bobsleigh

We talked about the traditional childrens’ toy sled but how about a professional one? I admire the high speeds on skeleton/sled or bobsleigh tracks. Would you dare to try it?

31. Skijoring

Do you have pets and would you like to train together with them? Then, skijoring is the best thing for you! Skijoring is basically any sport where a person on skis is pulled by a horse, a dog (or dogs), another animal, or a motor vehicle (snowmobile or car for instance). In Sweden, you can find many cross country skiing tracks where pets are allowed.

32. Reindeer race

If you own a typical Lappland pet – reindeer, you can participate in a Reindeer race in Finland. This is a wonderful event when people gather from all around the world to admire Sámi traditions.

33. Snow mobiling

To be honest, I am not much of a fan of snow mobiling. I prefer moving in the pure nature with my own power but I understand snow mobiling is popular in Sweden. The machines are very quick and you can explore nature in much shorter time compared to skis or skates. For me, they are just very loud and smelly and I am not that happy to meet them on my trips. I am not surprised that they are banned in Norway in free nature and allowed only on specific paths. I hope Sweden will follow the rule in the future. Anyway, snow mobiles are allowed now so try them.

34. Snowboarding

I almost forgot about snowboarding. It’s not much a surprise because I am a skier and you know there is a small rivalry between both sports so maybe I forgot it on purpose 🙂 Anyway, Sweden offers perfect conditions for snowboarding too. If you are a skier like me, why not trying a snowboard too? Look what Ms. Ledecka managed. She won a gold medal both in snowboarding and skiing at the Olympic games. I am proud to be a Czech 🙂

35. Winter Safari

In winter it is wonderful to observe animals in their natural habitat. Witnessing a moose and reindeer in Swedish mountains during winter is pretty common. But how about watching polar bears on Svalbard?

36. Hunting for the lowest temperatures

I have to admit I’m a bit of a weather nerd. I follow weather forecasts every day and I’m fascinated by our atmosphere and its phenomena. That’s also why I decided to study a meteorology course at Uppsala University in Sweden. During that time I found out that it’s popular to “hunt” for the lowest temperatures. Very low temperatures are very interesting because you can try wonderful things like in the video below. Do you know where we can measure the the lowest temperature in Scandinavia?

37. Winter kicksleds

Have you ever heard of kicksleds? These are especially popular in northern Europe and are also used for classic shopping trips. Below is a video from one of the manufacturers.

38. Igloo

What is it like to sleep in an igloo? Despite the ice or snow structure, it should be “relatively” warm inside. It’s time to experience what it’s like to be an Inuit for a day.

39. Winter surfing

Surfing is very popular in the summer. However, while traveling beyond the Arctic Circle, I discovered that it is also popular in the winter in the beautiful Lofoten archipelago. Judging by the video below, isn’t it gorgeous?

40. Glacier caves

Finally, I have perhaps the most beautiful thing – the glacial caves that can be found in Iceland. See what nature can create. Let’s explore them quickly before the glaciers melt.

So what do you think: Is winter boring or not? 😉

A climber celebrating successful summit of Galdhøpiggen

February 11, 2024 • 0 Comment

Your guide to a successful summit of Norway’s highest peak Galdhøpiggen

Galdhøpiggen, Norway’s and also Scandinavia’s highest mountain is located in the Jotunheimen National Park. It isn’t easy to reach. It is about the same distance from Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim so it takes time to get there but the visit definitely pays off. The Norwegian mountains are beautiful. In this article you can find all the information you need before your own climb of Norway’s highest mountain. Besides practical information you can also read about my own experience of summiting Galdhøpiggen in winter.

Important information for climbing Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen

Short description of the ascent from: Hiking on rocks all the way to the top, well marked
Essential equipment: Standard hiking equipment sufficient
Best time to visit: June - October or March - May for winter climb
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Spiterstulen and Juvasshytta or the best rated accommodation nearby at Elveseter
Height of the peak: 2,469 m
Distance to the top: 6.1 km 
Time to ascend from Spiterstulen to Galdhøpiggen: 3 hours 10 minutes 
Elevation climbed: 1,418 m 
Water availability on the mountain: There are streams on the way up to 1,600 m
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Bad Mango ** (6 stars maximum)

Two most popular routes to Galdhøpiggen

There are two main routes leading to the highest peak on Norway. Similarly to the route to Swedish highest mountain Kebnekaise, you can choose to take a longer hiking route with no glacier crossing or shorter route which requires glacier experience:

From Spiterstulen: This is the most popular route to climb Galdhøpiggen and is also known as the “normal route.” It is a non-technical climb that can be done by anyone with reasonable fitness and endurance. The trailhead starts at Spiterstulen, a mountain lodge located in Jotunheimen National Park. From there, it takes around 4-6 hours to reach the summit, depending on your pace. The trail is well-marked and easy to follow.
From Juvasshytta: This route is more challenging than the Spiterstulen route and is recommended for experienced hikers or climbers. The trailhead starts at a higher altitude compared to Spiterstulen. Juvasshytta, a mountain lodge located at the foot of Galdhøpiggen lies at 1,850 m. From there, it takes around 5-7 hours to reach the summit. The trail is steep and rocky and you will have to pass a glacier, with some sections that require the use of crampons. The route is only open during the summer months and is subject to weather conditions. If you don’t have glacier experience, a mountain guide is recommended.

Maps of the climbs from Spiterstulen and Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen

Click on the maps to see the distance, elevation and more details about the routes.

My story of climbing Galdhøpiggen in winter

I climbed Galdhøpiggen as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. After visiting the highest mountains of Vatican, San Marino and Monaco, I waited for suitable conditions for climbing the next mountains. The climbing break took in the end two months. At the beginning of March the days were finally getting longer in Scandinavia (about 10 hours of sunshine) and the weather was improving. The dark northern winter seemed to be over. Time to climb a new peak!

Freezing Scandinavia

My Norwegian friends told me that March is the best time to climb Galdhøpiggen. There are wonderful winter conditions and the mountains are generally without tourists. Ideal mountain for tour skiing. This vision attracted me so I teamed up with two friends Honza and Víťa, who both love ski touring, and we set out for a trip.

The only thing my Norwegian friends didn’t disclose was that it will be cold. The weather forecast was predicting −21°C for the weekend we had planned our trip. We were afraid that the weather might make our climb to Galdhøpiggen impossible but we still decided to try.

We all met at Víťa’s place in Oslo on Friday. The weather seemed to be best directly on Saturday (still −21° C but clear sky and mild wind) so we decided to leave early in the morning to reach Galdhøpiggen already in the afternoon.

Speeding in Norway not recommended

The alarm rang at 3:30 am. We quickly packed our stuff and left Oslo at 4 am. The journey was smooth. You don’t meet many cars on Norwegian roads on a Saturday morning. It would just be great to have different road regulations in Norway. The speed limit of 90 km/h on highways is absurd. My experience told me however that exceeding this limit could result in a significantly increased budget of this trip. One year ago I was fined 5000 NOK (about 500 EUR) for speeding by 5 km/h and therefore we did not take a risk.

We arrived to Spiterstulen, the start of our climb at ten o’clock. This time was still promising. We can probably make it to the summit and back before sunset, which is expected at 6:45 p.m.. That’s enough time. We quickly packed our backpacks with proper avalanche equipment (the so called “ski alpinist holy trinity” – a shovel, a transceiver (beeper) and a probe), snacks and hot tea. We put on our skis and started our ascent.

Winter paradise around Galdhøpiggen

Skier in fascinating snowy mountains of Norway — *Time to climb Galdhøpiggen*

It was cold when we were preparing our equipment but we had to stop after a while for another reason. Surprisingly, we were hot. Thanks to a windless and cloudless sky, we felt warm after the first 200 elevation meters. The first part of the climb was the steepest, which was maybe another reason. We took off a layer and continued up.

Luckily, we were not the only ones trying to reach Galdhøpiggen that day. Other enthusiastic ski mountaineers headed up ahead and created a nice trail so we saved some time by not having to look for the best possible route. After two hours we had the steepest passage behind us and reached the ridge. There was not much snow so we are took off our skis for a while and crossed the rocky passage with skis on our backs. Even though there was not much snow we were happy anyway. It means that the avalanche danger is low.

Fight for nose

After the next one and a half hour we stood on the top of Svellnose (2,272 m) from which we saw Galdhøpiggen for the first time. The wind also began to blow. It was suddenly very cold. We put on all of our layers. We climbed to the top as quickly as possible to warm up. The peak seemed to be near but the climb still took us an hour.

View over mountain Galdhøpiggen — *The first view over Galdhøpiggen*

Finally we were on Galdhøpiggen. The views from the top were wonderful. I regretted a bit that all my previous ascents took place in summer. Winter ascents are simply amazing. I started to photograph the winter paradise. Since I was constantly moving I was not cold but my friend started to have a problem. I was in the middle of photographing a large panorama when Honza called me: “We have to go down. Víťa has a completely white nose. He doesn’t feel it at all.”

Peak selfie from mountain Galdhøpiggen — *Peak selfie including Víťa’s slowly freezing nose*

It was clear that the fun was over. I sent my friends ahead so they didn’t have to wait until I had packed my photography equipment. Honza and Víťa are very good skiers so they left quickly. I just saw them gradually turn into two small dots and they disappeared soon beyond the horizon. I wasn’t happy about that. Even though I regard myself as a good skier (I worked for several years as a ski instructor), this was only my second trip on back-country skis in my life.

Don’t ski with a heavy backpack

Sunset over Norwegian mountains around Galdhøpiggen — *The last sun rays on the way down from Galdhøpiggen*

I realized that skiing with a heavy backpack isn’t fun. The snow conditions were not the best ones. There was an unpleasant ice crust so the skiing was difficult. I skied down in the most precise plow-style I could to descend as safely as possible. I went down at the speed of a racing worm. Finally, I appreciated the lessons as a ski instructor when I had to be in the plow position all the time. The descent was very long. So long. Infinite! My legs were hurting. The sun started to set and the visibility was getting worse. I just kept one hundred percent focus not to make any wrong move. I don’t know how I would deal with a fall or some injury by myself at −21° C and in darkness.

Fortunately, my legs were sufficiently trained so I managed to get back to Spiterstulen after two hours of a seemingly endless descent. I came to the reception where Víťa and Honza were warming up. Víťa’s nose was already bright red. It looked good. His nose is safe.

Starting point to climb Galdhøpiggen - Spiterstulen Hut — *Spiterstulen Hut reached*

My tips for climbing the mountain Galdhøpiggen:

Although there is a hut on top of Galdhøpiggen it is closed in winter. Don’t rely on it and check the opening times.
Take your own meal with you to save money. It is very expensive to eat in the hut Spiterstulen and there is no kitchen to prepare your own food.
For skilled skiers, Galdhøpiggen is suitable for a back-country skiing trip. The difficulty isn’t very high but be aware of the snow conditions and avalanche danger.

Hiker on top of Finland's highest mountain Halti

January 28, 2024 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Finland – Halti

Finland is a bit sad country when it comes to mountains. The north of Europe can boast of a unique landscape including deep fjords, large glaciers, high mountains and thousands of lakes. However, Finland can offer almost “only” the lakes from these. It’s Norway and partly Sweden who have the high mountains. The Finnish highest point Halti is only 1,324 m high and its peak is not even lying in Finland. The actual peak is situated a few meters behind the border in Norway and is 1,328 m high. It doesn’t mean however that Halti isn’t worth a visit. Follow this article for detailed information about Finnish highest point Halti including all practical information and maps for its visit as well as my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Halti from lake Gualosjárvi

Short description of the ascent: Short hiking but in a difficult terrain without a path
Essential equipment: GPS map or a printed map with compass
Best time to visit: June - September, suitable for winter climbs too, avoid months with short daylight (November - January)
Fees or restrictions: No 
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Olderdalen on the Norwegian side of the border; Kilpisjärvi at the Finnish side
Starting point: Parking lot at Gualosjárvi 
Height of the peak: 1,324 m 
Hiking distance: 6.6 km 
Time to ascend to Halti: 2 hours 30 minutes up, 2 hours down (time on mapy.cz below exaggerated)
Elevation climbed: 647 m
Water availability on the mountain: No
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Tromso 13 Saison ***** (6 stars maximum)

Two main routes to Halti

You can choose two different experiences if you want to climb Halti.

Route 1: From Finnish Kilpisjärvi – If you would like to have a proper Finnish experience, you will want to take this option. This popular route to Halti starts in the small village Kilpisjärvi located in the north-western corner of Finland. From Kilpisjärvi, you can follow a marked trail that leads to the summit of Halti. The trail is around 50 km long and can take anywhere from 3 to 5 days to complete, depending on your pace and level of experience. There are huts on the way where you can stay overnight. Alternatively, you can bring a tent. Along the way, you’ll pass through beautiful Arctic landscapes, including rugged mountains, deep valleys, and crystal-clear lakes. The trail is well-marked and maintained, so you shouldn’t have any problems finding your way. The hike can be challenging, but the stunning views are well worth the effort.

Route 2: From Norwegian lake Gualosjárvi – Another possible route to Halti starts at a beautiful lake Gualosjárvi. You can reach it by turning from the route E6 in Norway in Olderdalen at the village Biertavárri. The road is partly made of gravel so it can become muddy after heavy rains. After ca 30 km on this road you reach a parking lot at the Gualosjárvi lake. From there, head to mountain Ráisduottarháldi, and then continue towards Halti. There is no trail so don’t forget to bring a good GPS map or compass and printed map (if you can use it). This hike is shorter and you can take advantage of passing Norway by stopping at wonderful fjords on the way or visiting the city of Tromsø.

Maps of the hikes from Finland and Norway to Halti

My story of climbing Halti

I climbed Halti as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Since I was a bit under time pressure, I decided for the shorter route leading from Norway, the lake Guolasjárvi. This journey was supposed to take only one day.

Detail of Finland's highest mountain Halti — *Finnish flag on Halti waiting for our visit*

The weather played the most important role in the planning process. There is no trail to the Finnish highest mountain Halti from the Norwegian side so it would be advisable to go to the top in good conditions not to get lost. As the forecast for the following day showed fog, we chose to visit the Norwegian town of Tromsø near the Halti mountain instead. We did not regret that choice, because the weather was much better there and we could at least test Joanne’s new hiking boots.

Tent in a Norwegian fjord — *Tenting in Norway is a dream for every hiker*

The view over Tromsø from a nearby mountain (where you can get by a cable car Fjellheisen) was beautiful as it typically is in Norway. The view over fjords and high mountains around was simply amazing. I got a bit disappointed at the moment, that the Norwegian highest mountain is not in the EU. But what could be done?

Climbing Halti from Norway

We were looking forward to the Finnish summit where we headed the following day. The plan was to camp at the starting point. Unfortunately, there was some maintenance work in the tunnel the night before so we had to settle for camping by some random fjord. We didn’t really mind. Norwegian nature is beautiful simply everywhere. In addition to the view, nature served us a lot of raspberries growing right next to the tent.

Splashin water from a big wave in an Norwegian fjord — *I like random fjords*

When we woke up we were hidden in a deep fog. As I mentioned, the only problem with conquering the Halti mountain from the Norwegian side is navigation. There is no path to the top from Norway, so one must rely only on the map and on his own instincts. I didn’t want to get lost in the fog somewhere in the Finnish mountains, so we waited until the noon for the weather to get better.

Lake Guolasjärvi in Norway — *View over the starting point of the hike – lake Guolasjärvi*

It paid off. The path along the rocky terrain was a pleasant change from the beaten paths on the previous mountains. After the initial three-kilometer climb we found ourselves on a plateau with smaller peaks around. One of them was the Halti mountain.

Hiker and a view over Norwegian lake Guolasjärvi — *Reaching the plateau*

I checked my location according to the map and we marched to the mountain, which was supposed to be the highest point of Finland. Just to be sure, we cheated a bit and used a phone app called Mapy.cz, which confirmed to us that my presumption was correct. I highly recommend this app by the way. All hiking trails are perfectly marked there.

We were standing on the Halti mountain soon. The sad news for all Finns, however, is that the summit of the mountain doesn’t lie in Finland, but in Norway. The highest point of Finland is a few dozen meters away and a few altitude meters below. Fortunately, in this nice weather,we couldn’t miss it. It boasts of a stone-built pillar and a Finnish flag.

Hiker on top of Halti — *On top of Halti*

The last beer in Ylko’s life

As usual, I grabbed my summit beer to celebrate the ascent when one Finnish guy suddenly climbed to the top from the Finnish side. I wanted to make a toast with him but Mr. Ylko stopped me: “I don’t drink alcohol anymore.” He then confessed that he had decided to summit Halti to put an end to his drinking. He told me he had drunk 6000 beers in the last calendar year, and because his wife wanted to leave him, he decided that he’d rather stop drinking. Symbolically, he brought the last Karhu beer can to the highest peak of Finland. He poured the beer on the ground in front of me as a gesture of the end of his drinking period. From his determination, I felt that the resolution to stop drinking would end up well. I hope he has not been drinking since.

Beer Karhu at Finnish mountain Halti — *Ylko ready to spill the last beer of his life*

My tips for climbing the mountain Halti:

GPS navigation is necessary for the successful summit. There is no marked path to the top from the shorter Norwegian side.
I recommend high quality hiking shoes. You have to walk through difficult, rocky terrain.
If you have more time consider a trip to Halti from Finland. The return hiking trail is 89 kilometers long.
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Olderdalen on the Norwegian side of the border; Kilpisjärvi at the Finnish side

May 1, 2018 • 0 Comment

Preparation camp at Lofoten islands

My summer expedition EU Peaks will be a long trip with only short brakes so there will be no time for failures. That’s why I don’t want to underestimate the preparations. I go running almost every day and I am learning to use my equipment. During the last year I have bought a lot of new camera gear and I have learnt a new cool method to make panoramic pictures. I wanted to test everything before my trip so I am sure I can handle it. I wanted to do the test in a tough environment so I could see how I and my gear can manage extreme conditions. The result is: I decided to visit Lofoten islands.

What are Lofoten islands? To be honest I think it is the most beautiful place on our planet. You may wonder why I like such a cold place far behind the polar circle. But if you saw those sharp mountains scrambling out of a rough ocean I think you would quickly understand.

A panoramic view over Reinefjorden, Lofoten

April seemed to be a perfect month. It is the month with the most changeable weather and the strongest wind of the year. During this time you can expect all: rain, fog, snow, hail, rainbow and hopefully also sun and northern lights. Perfect for photographers. Hopefully, my girlfriend would enjoy it too.

The trip didn’t start the best. My ordered large backpack didn’t arrive in time so I looked like a turtle with two backpacks. As a bonus I got some Swedish food for the way. Yeah, Norway is expensive. Charming right?

That’s my choice though. I know that carrying 15 kg of camera equipment might be tough. However, there is no other option. If I want to capture perfect moments and make the best pictures from my expedition I need professional equipment and that unfortunately weighs a lot. I am now doing panoramic landscape photography where I usually use 9-45 pictures to create one final photo. This is the only way to provide excellent quality of my work and make it printable on a large scale. In a later post, I will go more in detail how I shoot for those interested.

Now just 18 hours train to Narvik which is btw. also a perfect training for summer. I will be mostly travelling by train. I think it is most fun. You meet many interesting people and it’s much better for the environment than planes. A pity that Swedish trains are reliable like the long-term forecast so we were four hours delayed. Fortunately, we reached Lofoten islands before sunset and they didn’t surprise us. They were beautiful as always. We were welcomed by this amazing sunset. Can you imagine a nicer place for an evening bbq?

A beach on the small peninsula Holdøya at the beginning of Lofoten

The following days were as expected. Very strong wind and very changeable weather. It prepared perfect conditions for photography. Look at some examples of my work.

View from a snowy football field in the village Henningsvær

The camera and all my lenses seem to work. The second step was to test my drone. I had to be very careful. It was extremely windy and I didn’t want to let it swim so I was very careful when choosing the time for takeoff. It showed up that wind should be weaker than 10m/s. I was lucky to fly a few times with a decent wind and it resulted in the following images. I have to admit that the drone can cope with very strong winds if it manages to take off. It was a very pleasant surprise.

Kvalvika beach

Planet of the village Henningsvær

Panoramic drone view from the small peninsula Holdøya

The biggest challenge was to come though. We wanted to reach one of the mountains and tent there to witness a nice sunset, sunrise and hopefully northern lights from above. I made myself a turtle again, this time a turtle with snowshoes and went up to the sky. It was definitely worth it. This was our view from the tent.

A view from a mountain close to the village Fredvang

The northern lights were a bit weak but the nature was forgiven after giving us this beautiful sunrise.

The nicest sunrise can be seen only from the mountains

I am happy I could test all my tripod, camera, three lenses and drone and I think I am ready for the summer. I made some mistakes but I am happy for them to happen now and not during my expedition.

See you soon Lofoten islands! I can’t let you be without me for a long time!