Kungsleden Archives - The Best Viewpoints

Strong northern lights in the snowy landscape of northern Sweden

April 17, 2024 • 0 Comment

Your ultimate guide for Kungsleden in winter

Do you know where you can experience one of Europe’s last true wildernesses? If you haven’t heard of the mythical Kungsleden (translated as the King’s Trail) in northern Sweden, read carefully. It’s a 470 km long trail from Hemavan to Abisko that leads through a beautiful unspoiled mountain landscape full of vast lakes, high mountains and deep valleys. The trail is very popular in summer, but you can experience the greatest adventure on Kungsleden in winter. My friend Rikki and I decided to explore the most interesting part of the trail, the 107 km journey from Abisko along Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise, to Nikkaluokta to see what this winter adventure entails. Check out this blog post for all info you need before your trip

Book a guided trip on Kungsleden in winter

Before you start reading about Kungsleden in winter, I have big news. Due to many reactions and big interests of this article, I decided to organize a trip from Abisko to Nikkaluokta on skis. It will be held from 4th to 10th March 2025 and it will be amazing! You can look forward to fantastic skiing experience and northern lights. We will be two experienced guides taking care of you and the group will be max 12 people. Would you like to hear more? Send me an email to info@jardazaoral.com and I will give you detailed information. We have a few spots left, so let me know as soon as possible if you would like to join us. But before that, read below my experience and tips.

How to get to Kungsleden?

Most visitors of Kungsleden start their journey in Abisko. The most convenient way to get there is to ﬂy to Stockholm Arlanda airport, and then take a direct overnight train right at the airport train station, which will take you to the starting point at the Abisko Turiststation stop. You will very likely meet other winter enthusiasts in the train and spend valuable time talking about upcoming adventures with them. The train offers comfortable beds so you can rest well before you wake up right at the start of the adventure.

Another and slightly quicker option is to ﬂy to Kiruna, Sweden via Stockholm Arlanda airport. From Kiruna you can take a bus and train to Abisko. However, I don’t recommend this option if you have a lot of equipment with you. Because of the multiple transfers, this option is less convenient.

The way back depends on where you ﬁnish your journey on Kungsleden. In our case, we ended up in Nikkaluokta, from where we took a bus to the station in Kiruna. From there we took again the overnight train to the airport in Stockholm.

Abisko National Park and its frozen river covered by snow — *The expedition starts in the beautiful Abisko National Park, where you can wander along the frozen river Abisko*

Where to sleep on Kungsleden in winter?

In winter, 99% of visitors stay overnight in local mountain huts, which can be found every 10 to 20 km along the way. You can ﬁnd a complete list of them on the Swedish Tourist Association’s (STF) website. These huts offer cozy accommodation that is usually simple but functional. For a fee of 500 SEK (in 2024 if you are a member of the STF) you get everything you need in this inhospitable and frozen landscape. If you’re planning on staying inside, it’s deﬁnitely recommended to become an STF member before your trip, as you’ll get signiﬁcant discounts at all the huts along the way. The huts offer all the essentials you need during your winter adventure:

Sleeping rooms: Huts offer shared sleeping rooms, usually in the form of dormitories. They are equipped with mattresses, duvets and pillows, but you have to bring your own bedding. I recommend a lightweight summer sleeping bag to ensure warmth and comfort.
Kitchen facilities: Basic cooking equipment such as cookers, pots, pans and utensils are available in the cottages so tourists can bring their own food and prepare it there.
Drinking water supply: The cottages have drinking water sources that visitors can use for drinking and cooking. However, water must be brought from a water source that may be up to a kilometre away. Housekeepers will show you how to get the water. It’s an exciting activity and it will be one of your favourite adventures on the trip.
Shop: Huts sell a basic range of food. Check the Swedish Tourist Board STF website in advance for the current offer.
Limited electricity and lighting: Be prepared for that there is no electricity in the cottages. You can charge your batteries only with your own power banks which are necessary for this trip. In the evening kerosene lamps and candles are used as sources of light.
Information: Some lodges have satellite internet access so visitors can get additional weather information, which is often crucial for planning the following days.
Toilets and sanitary facilities: There are dry toilets at the villages and saunas are used for washing. Before entering the sauna, you can wash yourself with warm water from barrels.

Aurora borealis over the huts in the Sámi village Abiskojaure — *Aurora borealis over the huts in the second stop Abiskojaure*

TIP FOR PEOPLE WHO PLAN TO SLEEP IN A TENT: You can also use the cabins even if you don’t want to stay overnight. For a fee of SEK 200 (per person per day in 2024) you can sleep in a tent next to the villages and use all the services listed above. This makes it a great alternative for adventurers who decide to go on Kungsleden with their own tent and sledge. This was also our case, and we were only going to use the huts for overnight stays in case of emergency or bad weather.

It worked out very well. In the end we managed to stay all nights outside but we sometimes took advantage of the facilities of local huts. They were very comfortable and cozy. It was very nice to warm up for a while and to make delicious food inside.

*Winter camping on Kungsleden is an unforgettable experience*

What is the best route for Kungsleden in winter?

In winter, the route is some kilometers shorter than in summer, because the lakes on Kungsleden are all covered in ice and snow. This is a nice advantage compared to summer but as you have to carry more equipment, the journey is much more demanding and therefore slower than in summer. We wanted to try the most popular and most beautiful part of Kungsleden so we set out for a trip from Abisko to Nikkaluokta. This is the most common itinerary:

Day 1: From Abisko to Abiskojaure: The ﬁrst day is a warm-up. You will only have 13 km to go with a gentle climb of around 100 elevation meters.
Day 2: From Abiskojaure to Alesjaure: The second day is the most challenging of the entire journey to Nikkaluokta. You have to prepare for a 20 km long trip and 400 elevation meters.
Day 3: From Alesjaure to Tjäktja hut: The third critical day is fortunately not that long. However, you have to prepare for a steeper climb of 300 elevation meters at the end. Look forward to this day because the Tjäktja hut offers fantastic views and perfect view to the north so you have an amazing chance to see northern lights from here.
Day 4: From Tjäktja to Sälka: Not far from the Tjäktja hut, you will reach the highest point of the whole trip – the Tjäktja Pass. Here you will be exactly halfway on the way from Abisko to Nikkaluokta. At the pass you can rest in an emergency shelter before the biggest descent of the whole trip. This is the only place of the whole trip where the descent is steep, so be careful when descending this 2 km downhill. The whole route from Tjäktja to Sälka is 13 km long and you will climb 150 m right at the start and then you can look forward to descending 350 m.
Day 5: From Sälka to Singi: The shortest day is only 12 km long, with 80 m of elevation gain and 190 m of descent. It is the easiest day of the whole trip so you can take it easy and take a longer relax in the beautiful valley where Singi lies. It’s good to have one short day in the itinerary because this day also serves as a reserve day in case it isn’t possible to move on any of the previous days due to tough weather conditions. Yes, it sometimes happens due to a storm. It can happen that you have to stay the whole day in a hut and then make a longer stretch and manage a trip from Tjäktja to Singi in one day for instance.
Day 6: From Singi to Kebnekaise fjällstation: This 15 km long route leads over a pass with a beautiful view and then through a deep valley to the foot of Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise. This is my favorite day of the whole journey as it offers fantastic views over the Kebnekaise massif.
Day 7: From Kebnekaise Fjällstation to Nikkaluokta: The last day is very long, ca 20 km and probably the least interesting. That’s why most tourists decide to shorten this route and pass it on snowmobiles to catch a bus from Nikkalookakta to Kiruna, which awkwardly runs only once a day at 12:00 sharp.

Tent in the valley under Kebnekaise and under northern lights at Kungsleden in winter — *Wonderful northern lights above our tent at a valley nearby Kebnekaise fjällstation*

You can see from the route description above that the whole route is mostly ﬂat or with just a small up/downhill. However, if you carry a lot of equipment, you will feel the 300 meters of altitude in your body. We deﬁnitely did!

If you’re planning to travel with a tent, you have a slight advantage. You are much more ﬂexible and can adjust your daily mileage depending on how you feel. In fact, you are allowed to camp anywhere in Sweden as long as you set a tent at least 150 m from a household. The only exception is national parks so be careful with planning your first two days. During these you will be hiking in Abisko National Park and you are only allowed to camp in designated areas, namely right next to the Abisko STF hut in Abiskojaure and at a designated camping site called Nissonjokk. Nissonjokk is the only place out of these three where you don’t have to pay for the tenting spot (in Abisko and in Abiskojaure, it costs 200 SEK to tent and you can use the facilities).

When is the best time to visit Kungsleden in winter?

Compared to the the rest of Europe, the winter season in northern Sweden starts much later. This is due to the short days in December and January and the extremely cold weather then. In 2024, the local huts were open between 16/2 and 21/4. Which date to choose? My recommendation is the end of March.

At the end of March temperatures tend to be more comfortable than in the second half of February or during early March and the days are already long enough to manage your daily trips. The end of March is also great when it comes to the chance of seeing the Northern Lights. On the contrary, April nights are already short so there is smaller chance of seeing the Northern Lights and you don’t want to miss them. It’s one of the biggest attractions of a every Kungsleden trip. If you want to know more about northern lights, check out my article Practical Guide to see Northern Lights.

Climb from Abiskojaure to Alesjaure rewards you with beautiful views — *The longest climb from Abiskojaure to Alesjaure rewards you with beautiful views*

Weather on Kungsleden in winter

In winter, the weather on Kungsleden can be very harsh and unpredictable, which is why this route requires thorough preparation and proper equipment. Be prepared for very low temperatures. In winter, temperatures on the Kungsleden can be well below freezing. Temperatures below -10°C or even -20°C are not at all unusual.

However, the low temperatures aren’t the biggest challenge on Kungsleden. Severe cold weather is manageable. Do you know what is important to be careful about? Strong winds and gales. They are very frequent on Kungsleden and they dramatically reduce the “feels like” temperature.

Another thing to watch out for is avalanches. Heavy snowfall and wind can also cause avalanche danger. Most of the King’s Trail is off avalanche terrain, but be sure to check with local huts for current avalanche conditions.

It might sound like I would like to scare you off coming to Kungsleden in this paragraph but I didn’t mean it. There are also beautiful sunny days on Kungsleden during which you can enjoy views of the amazing Scandinavian landscapse. Be ready also for this weather and don’t forget sun cream and proper sunglasses.

To summarise the weather on Kungsleden, you need be prepared for both sunny weather and extremely cold conditions. The weather can change quickly on Kungsleden, so be prepared for variable conditions. Check the weather at each station before your every day adventure and be prepared for anything.

*Frozen author of this article sends greetings to his readers from Tjäktja pass*

What is better? Snowshoes or skis on King’s Trail in winter?

As you probably guess, there is a lot of snow on Kungsleden in winter, so it isn’t possible to set out on such adventure in common hiking shoes. Instead, you need to consider whether to bring snowshoes or skis. My girlfriend and I tested part of the Kungsleden on snowshoes in the past and it wasn’t a bad choice. However, we were in the vast minority using snowshoes and we were much slower than skis. In fact, only foreign visitors use snowshoes.

This time we tested Kungsleden on skis as 99% of the locals do, and we quickly understood why locals don’t use snowshoes. Skis are much faster and comfortable and you can also enjoy the downhills. Snowshoes are better in very steep terrains but it isn’t the case of Kungsleden. You don’t have to worry about challenging up/downhills here. Most of the trail is ﬂat and you’ll only have to pass gentle ascents and descents.

Kungsleden in winter with beautiful view of Sweden't highest point Kebnekaise — *Kungsleden in winter also offered us a beautiful view of Sweden’t highest point Kebnekaise – the highest peak behind us*

Equipment on winter King’s Trail

For a winter expedition beyond the Arctic Circle, proper equipment is necessary. To enjoy Kungsleden and to feel comfortable, it’s necessary to have especially warm clothing. My recommendation is to have several layers ready and you adjust these according to the current temperature. We had moments on our trip when it was sunny and windless with temperatures just below freezing. During these times we were ascending in just T-shirts. On the other hand, we experienced conditions with strong headwinds the following day, when the temperature also dropped by twenty degrees. In such conditions I used two down jackets and several layers underneath. I know I repeat myself but be ready for various weather conditions.

Skier and his sledge on Kungsleden in winter — *Here you can see a skier and his full equipment in a sledge in one picture*

Best experiences and secret tips for winter Kungsleden

Since we wanted to experience winter Kungsleden with carrying our own tent and sleeping outside in the wilderness, we definitely didn’t have a shortage of experiences. Here are the ones which we will never forget and wish you could experience too:

107 km and 107 kg: There is a scale at the starting point at the STF hut in Abisko where both summer and winter hikers/skiers weigh their backpacks or other luggage before setting off. My friend Rikki and I measured 107 kg. A fateful number! That’s exactly how many kilometers we were going to cover on the trip to Nikkaluokta. Will we manage to carry over 50 kg on every sledge? Fortunately, we could say at the end of Kungsleden: Yes! Thanks to the sledge that glides smoothly over the snow, it isn’t as tough as it may seem! If you plan to bring a lot of gear, deﬁnitely rent a sledge at Abisko STF hut. But beware of the necessary reservations! You have to book a sledge a long time in advance. In 2024, the sledges were already booked six months in advance.
Aurora Borealis: We were lucky and managed to see Northern Lights every other day. It’s indescribable beauty. To see a strong aurora, I summarize all necessary tips in this aurora guide.
Sauna: The saunas are deﬁnitely the most pleasant bonus of the local huts. You will never forget jumping into a frozen lake or into the snow in -20 degrees after a few minutes in a hot sauna. Just be aware that not all of the huts offer a sauna experience. You will find a sauna in all the huts except Tjäktja and Singi.
Extreme conditions in Tjäktja Pass: The timing of strong winds couldn’t be worse on our journey. The windiest day was forecasted for the highest point of the journey in the Tjäktja Pass. We had to get up at 4 am to avoid the strongest winds, which were expected around noon. How it paid off! We had harsh conditions anyway as we were hit by such strong winds that icicles were being formed in our beards. But we managed to conquer the Tjäktja pass. Be sure to watch the forecast ahead and adjust your wake-up call accordingly to avoid the strongest winds. Some other expeditions didn’t obey the forecast and didn’t make it via Tjäktja pass and had to stay one more day at Tjäktja.
Photography: if you are a keen photographer, you will love winter Kungsleden. There is wonderful scenery every day and it’s fascinating to photograph the changeable weather. But don’t forget to bring spare batteries and power banks. Unfortunately, there is no place on the way where you can charge your batteries. You can charge everything as soon as you reach Kebnekaise fjällstation.

Beautiful landscape during sunrise of Kungsleden in winter — *Beautiful landscapes and views will accompany you on the whole journey*

Book a guided tour from Abisko to Nikkaluokta

Would you like to experience Kungsleden in winter and don’t have enough experience? I’m organizing a guided tour from Abisko to Nikkaluokta next year at the beginning of March! We will be doing the trip on skis with overnight stays in all the huts on the way. It will be held from 4thrd to 10th March 2025. Would you like to hear more about this adventure? Send me an email to info@jardazaoral.com and I will give you detailed information.

Man on top of Swedish highest mountain Kebnekaise

February 18, 2024 • 0 Comment

Practical and personal tips to climbing Swedish highest peak Kebnekaise

Sweden’s highest mountain Kebnekaise is unique in the community of the highest peaks of European countries. It is the most remote peak from civilization compared to any other European country’s high point. Since the shortest route from civilization to the summit is 25.5 kilometers long (one way), it can hardly be reached within one day. The easiest way to Kebnekaise is from the village Nikkaluokta and the return trip usually takes three days. In this article, you can read everything you need to know before your own visit of Kebnekaise including practical information, a map and my own experience. Here we go!

Important information for climbing Kebnekaise south

Short description of the ascent: Multiple day hiking and crampons needed at the end of the hike
Essential equipment: Crampons, hiking poles
Best time to visit: July - September or April for winter climb
Fees or restrictions: No but guide strongly recommended on the Eastern route
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Kebnekaise fjällstation
Best accommodation at starting points: Cosy huts at Enoks i Láddjujávri in Nikkaluokta or STF Abisko Turiststation
Height of the peak: 2,096 m 
Hiking distance DAY 1 and DAY 3: 18.6 km (one way)
Hiking distance DAY 2 - Summit day: 8.5 km (one way) 
Time to hike from Kebnekaise fjällstation to Kebnekaise Sydtopp: 4-6 hours up, 2-4 hours down
Time to hike from Kebnekaise fjällstation to Nikkaluokta: 5 hours (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 1,599 m (Day 2 - Summit day)
Elevation climbed: 312 m (Day 1) 
Water availability on the mountain: Plenty of water sources from rivers up to 1,150 m
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Poppels Wit **** (6 stars maximum)

What is the highest peak of Sweden?

Why do I ask such a weird question when I already introduced the name Kebnekaise in the paragraph above? The problem is that Kebnekaise has two peaks – a southern and a northern one. In between, there is a steep ridge. My girlfriend and I climbed the southern peak of Kebnekaise which has always been the highest one. However, global warming is making a change. In 2018 the northern peak became the highest point for the first time in history. The unusual heat in the north of Sweden in recent years caused serious melting of the glacier on the southern peak. I expected I will have to climb the northern peak within my European Peaks project but it got even more complicated. When we were getting soaked by rain every day in the valley (read the story below), it was constantly snowing on Kebnekaise.

According to the local guides at Kebnekaise Fjällstation, it caused an incredible rise of the Southern peak of Kebnekaise by 10 meters! That meant that it became the highest again. I did not believe the number myself, but when I compared my photographs with those taken there in the summer, there was a huge difference. And I was glad. Looking at the steep ridge I didn’t feel like going to the northern peak. In these icy conditions it didn’t look safe at all. It was very windy and slippery at the top and proper climbing equipment including ropes and an ice axe would be necessary.

Ice axe on top of Kebnekaise during sunrise with fantastic view — *Picture taken from Kebnekaise south. You can see Kebnekaise north in the distance*.

The height of the Southern peak of Kebnekaise is changing dramatically every year so if you want to climb the real highest peak of Sweden, ask at Kebnekaise fjällstation which one is the highest at the moment before your summit push. Or just climb both to make sure you made it!

Below, I will be describing routes to the Kebnekaise south which is climbed most often by visitors. If you would like to climb the Northern peak, climbing experience is necessary as well as proper equipment including an ice axe, ropes and helmets.

Which route is the best to reach Kebnekaise?

There are two popular routes to the top of Kebnekaise. Both of them start at Kebnekaise Fjällstation which travelers usually use as a base camp before the summit. The Western Route (Västra Leden in Swedish) is the most popular way to reach the top. It starts with a steep hike up the mountain Vierranvári. Then, it continues down for ca 200 m to the foot of Kebnekaise. From there, it is again a steep hike up to the top. The route is well-marked and maintained, no scrambling is necessary but it is still a challenging climb that should only be attempted by experienced hikers. The last part of the hike is covered by a glacier which can be very slippery. Crampons are necessary there. Once you are at the top, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Below you can find a map from Nikkaluokta to the summit (one way).

The Eastern Route is more difficult than the Western Route, as it involves passing a glacier and a steep climb up a rocky slope to reach the summit. The climb requires proper equipment and experience, as you might have to pass some glacier crevasses and the rocks can be slippery and dangerous. Due to safety, most travelers choose to take a guide on this route. Below you can find a map from Kabnekaise Fjästation to the summit (one way).

How to get to Kebnekaise fjällstation (the base camp)?

The most common and popular way to Kebnekaise fjällstation is to hike from Nikkaluokta. It takes ca 5 hours and it’s the best option if your schedule is tight (see the first map above). However, if you have more time, I highly recommend to extend your experience of the Swedish wilderness and enjoy a part of the famous Kungsleden trail which starts at the village Abisko. The distance between Abisko and Kebnekaise fjällstation is 86.8 km and it usually takes 4-5 days to hike it. See the map below with tips where you can stay over on the way. You can stay both in huts or bring your our tent like we did.

Below you can find my story of climbing Kebnekaise. There, you can find more thorough information. I made it with my girlfriend all the way from Abisko to Nikkaluokta via Kebnekaise. If you are interested only in climbing Kebnekaise via the shortest way from Nikkaluokta, scroll down and skip my Kungsleden description.

My story of climbing Kebnekaise

This climb of Kebnekaise was a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest point of every European country in a year. Since I had already climbed Kebnekaise four years ago via the regular route “Nikkaluokta – Kebnekaise Fjällstation – Kebnekaise and back” I decided to set out this time for a seven day hike Abisko – Kebnekaise – Nikkaluokta, which meant a seven-day trip through the Swedish wilderness.

Train arrived to Abisko from Narvik — *Our train from Narvik to Abisko and lots of gear to be repacked*

After climbing Halti, the highest point of Finland, my girlfriend and I took the train from Norway to a small Swedish Lapland village called Abisko. There we had to say goodbye to civilization. During the next week we were supposed to be without mobile phone signal on the most interesting part of the famous Swedish hiking trail Kungsleden. We will experience 130 km of hiking.

Packing for Kungsleden — *Packing for one week. The majority is food*

We bought the last food supplies in Abisko, packed our backpacks thoroughly and approached the scale where all pilgrims stop before heading to the Kungsleden trail. My backpack showed a weight of 26 kilograms. Joanne had a backpack weighing six kilos less. The difference was photo equipment (which became lighter after the Scottish accident – my back will thank me). Since we had nothing more to get rid of we set out on the road.

Sunrise at Kungsleden, Abiskojaure — *The first sunrise of our hike on a freezing morning*

The first five days on Kungsleden trail brought us a lot of experiences. I can summarize them in just seven words: valleys, mountains, rain, lakes, sauna, reindeer and blisters. The hike had it all. A description of the hike would take at least a few more articles so I will just summarize them by a few sentences from my diary:

Kungsleden hike

DAY 1: 2 km
… The sun is shining. We are enjoying the first kilometers on our way along the wild river Abiskojåkka. What a beauty…

DAY 1: 15 km
… The sun is setting. The last mosquitoes of this summer have left their shelters to cheerfully attack the last tourists coming to the first Lapland settlement. My back also hurts. Why did I bring that huge 3 kg lens with me?

DAY 2: 15 km
… Morning cold wakes me up. I want to get out of the tent, but the zipper is frozen. At night the temperature dropped by more than 15 degrees. After I finally managed to open the tent I see a wonderful show. The sun is just rising above a mist above a waveless lake..

DAY 3: 38 km

… We walk through a beautiful deep valley. My back got used to the heavy backpack, so instead of complaining I enjoy the landscape. Along the way I collect and eat the so-called gold of the north – cloudberry. I have never eaten such sweet fruit. Delicasy. On the way we will meet several reindeer…

DAY 3: 49 km

… We walk through another incredibly long valley. Haven’t we already gone through this one? My legs are getting tired and a strong wind blows from the mountains. It brings dark clouds and it starts to rain. It is tough with my heavy backpack. We stop at the first cottage in another Lapland village. But it is full. “You can’t stay,” we are told. The next village is 10 kilometers away…

DAY 3: 59 km

… We are slow. Joanne and I are low-spirited. It’s raining cats and dogs. After two endless hours in heavy rain we reach our destination. We knock the door of the village commander: “Can we stay here for tonight, please?” – “I am sorry. It’s full. The only option is to sleep on the ground,” we hear. We lie down in the corner of the room on a borrowed mattress where dogs usually sleep. But we are finally getting dry…

DAY 4: 62 km
… It is pouring again. Why? What have we done wrong? Why are we punished?

DAY 4: 82 km
… Sauna! There is a sauna in the next village. We don’t hesitate a minute and go there to warm up. Inside, a master is already waiting. Of course, there is no electricity in these Sámi villages so the sauna is heated by wood. It smells really good and the master heats the sauna above hundred degrees. We talk with other hikers about the last days on the trail. The conversation is interrupted by several jumps into a glacial lake. Incredible regeneration and body relaxation…

DAY 5: 105 km
… We passed several waterfalls and walked around steep hills. The weather is beautiful. It is unbelievable how fast a hiking nightmare can turn into an amazing trip. This part of Kungsleden is most beautiful. Soon we see Kebnekaise Fjällstation, the base camp from where we will head to Sweden’s highest point – Kebnekaise the following day…

Rainy day on Kungsleden — *Another rainy day on Kungsleden*

Time to climb Kebnekaise

We set up our tent nearby Kebnekaise Fjällstation when my phone suddenly started vibrating in my pocket. Finally a signal. Welcome back to civilization! After such a long time without a cell phone it was a great feeling. I felt ashamed of how happy I was. We had a beautiful view from our tent but ignored it for a while. Time to let our family and friends know that we are alive. Besides this, we could also check the current weather forecast. It seemed that the bad luck of the last days turned around. The next day was supposed to be a wonderful sunny day. Ideal for our climb of Kebnekaise.

Tenting on Kungsleden — *Joanne and I tenting on Kungsleden*

Finally time to climb Kebnekaise

We decided to get up at midnight to reach the summit at sunrise via the western route (the eastern route requires glacier equipment). The alarm was annoying but the view of the northern lights was worth it. We took a short breakfast and started to hike towards Kebnekaise. After the first three kilometers in the valley the path became steeper. In another half an hour we crossed a river and continued on the path recently built by sherpas. A much more pleasant accent than four years ago on rocky terrain.

The Sherpa steps led as far as to the peak of Vierranvárri (1,711 m). It meant that we are only 300 elevation meters from Kebnekaise. However, there was one more valley between Vierranvárri and Kebnekaise. It meant an additional 200 meters down and up.

Dawn at Vierranvárri on the way to Kebnekaise — *Dawn at Vierranvárri*

Finally the last climb began. At 1,700 m we crossed the snow line and in a moment the landscape turned completely white. In a few minutes we ascended from autumn to winter! Meanwhile, the sun started to rise and lit the mountains around us with a beautiful pink-red light. Amazing scenery.

Sunrise on the way to Kebnekaise — *Passing the snow line*

The final 30 meters were very steep and covered by ice, so we put the crampons on. We continued with them smoothly and were on the top in a minute. We admired the snow-capped mountains and the beginning of the red autumn in the valleys. Fog has formed over the lake between Nikkaluokta and Kebnekaise Fjällstation. Beautiful.

Kebnekaise Sydtoppen - the highest or second highest peak of Sweden? — *Kebnekaise Sydtoppen – the highest or second highest peak of Sweden?*

If you are exhausted, take a helicopter (warning: pictures of nasty blisters below)

The next day we woke up very tired but there was still the last 19 kilometers to reach the village of Nikkaluokta. We would overcome that we were tired, but Joanne had seriously growing blisters, a result of too tight hiking shoes. They looked very unhealthy. She probably got an infection. “Joanne, do you want to fly back to civilization by helicopter?”

I asked it seriously. Many lazy tourists shorten their way to the top of Kebnekaise and back with a helicopter, and a big demand for this mode of transport made the flight affordable. The flight is relatively cheap compared to other Swedish services (it “only” costs 800 SEK per person; in comparison a night at Kebnekaise Fjällstation costs 1240 SEK – prices in 2018). If you sleep in a tent you can use the saved money for the helicopter.

Big blisters on heels after tough hike — *If you don’t want blisters like this, Joanne recommends bringing large enough hiking shoes*

But my girlfriend refused my offer, “I have done over a hundred kilometers. I want to walk the last nineteen.” It was the toughest part of the whole hike because of the blisters but Joanne managed it well. We arrived to Nikkaluokta after four hours, hitchhiked to Kiruna, and the end of our seven days hike was only pleasant. We ordered a delicious pizza with reindeer meat and watched aurora borealis out of our window at cosy SPiS Hotel where we also got magnificent breakfast with typical buffé full of Swedish food including salmon or meatballs.

My tips for climbing the mountain Kebnekaise:

If you have time, take the seven-day hike from Abisko via Kungsleden to the Kebnekaise Fjällstation and return to civilization via the village of Nikkaluokta after climbing Kebnekaise. It is an amazing experience. On the way do not forget the sauna.
Best accommodation at starting points: Cosy huts at Enoks i Láddjujávri in Nikkaluokta or STF Abisko Turiststation
If you have experience with glaciers, take the eastern route to the summit. You will shorten the hike and avoid significant elevation. Without glacier experience, a guide is mandatory. It is possible to book one beforehand.
Do not stay overnight at the Kebnekaise Fjällstation. It is overpriced and overcrowded. Bring your tent with you.