Hiking Archives - Page 3 of 3 - The Best Viewpoints

Beautiful sunset view of Fagaras mountains

July 9, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak

The Făgăraș mountains in Romania are a majestic range of rugged beauty. If you are looking for a wonderful mountain ridge hike with a minimum of other visitors, this is the place for you. You’ll most likely only meet sheep on the way. Among the mountains on the main ridge one stands out – Moldoveanu, the highest summit. Climbing Moldoveanu’s peak requires courage and endurance. It lies more than 13 km from the nearest village and therefore is usually climbed in two days but it’s so worth it! Not only the summit but the whole journey offers unforgettable views over surrounding peaks, valleys, and lakes.

Important information for climbing Moldoveanu Peak

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on the mountain ridge
Essential equipment: Hiking gear for long and demanding hikes
Best time to visit: June - October (Be careful of strong storms during high season)
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Bâlea Lac and hut Caban Podragu
Recommended accommodation before the hike: Well rated Hotel Paraul Capra on the other side of the tunnel of Transfagarasan
Starting point: village Bâlea Lac (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2,544 m
Hiking distance: 13.1 km (one way) - be careful - demanding both ways
Time to ascend to Moldoveanu peak: 8 hours up, 7 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,429 m up and 965 m down (this means only one way - important to count on the way back!)
Water availability on the mountain: hut Cabana Podragu and a stream under mountain Mircii (see the map below)
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Silva Black (dark lager) *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of two best routes to Moldoveanu Peak

The highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak is very remote compared to other highest mountains of European countries. It’s recommended to climb it in two days because the distance from the nearest village Bâlea Lac is very long and the hiking path to the peak is very hard with many ascents and descents. I recommend to stay at Cabana Podragu on the way or to bring a tent. Regarding the route, you have these two main options:

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac: This option is a bit shorter but it’s very hard because you will have to hike the tough ridge with many uphills and downhills both ways.
Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria: This option is a bit longer but it has the advantage that you descend on the way back to civilization.

I myself selected the second option but I have to admit it didn’t feel like an easier route. It was very long and demanding too. There is no easy way to and from Moldoveanu Peak.

Map of the route to Moldoveanu Peak

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac

Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria

My story of climbing Moldoveanu Peak

I have to be honest. Moldoveanu Peak is the mountain which I underestimated the most of all European Peaks I climbed. Starting at 2,030 m and looking at the map showing 2,544 m for the highest peak makes the underestimation easy. In the end, it became one of the toughest hikes with the first injury. On the other hand it also became the hike with one of the best views and the least tourists. Follow my steps in the Făgăraș mountains.

To Moldoveanu Peak via one of the most amazing roads in the world

My trip to the highest peak of Romania started in a night train from Hungary. I was lucky to book one of the last beds in the train so I could charge some energy before the fourth EU Peak in four days! I was happy that my mum also wanted to join for one EU Peak and she chose Moldoveanu Peak. She was already waiting for me with my father in the city Făgăraș, the city which gave its name to the mountain ridge with the highest mountain of Romania. The city itself is not interesting at all though. We took a short lunch break and continued up to the mountains.

Soon we reached the starting point of our hike which is located at Bâlea Lac pass. The drive up was epic, which is not surprising. The Transfăgărășan road was named one of the most amazing roads in the world, definitely the most scenic car drive of my trip.

Hiking at Fagaras mountains — *Time for some hiking with my parents*

The weather forecast was very good so I made a brave plan to tent on Moldoveanu Peak. I was really looking forward to this challenge. My parents seemed to look forward too. We packed our backpacks and I took all of my equipment with me including a tent, a sleeping bag, a mattress, clothes, food and of course my drone and all camera equipment. Altogether my backpack was 30 kg. This hike was supposed to be a test for a one week long hike across the Swedish mountains. Is it a good idea?

Fascinating ridge of Făgăraș mountains

The initial climb to the mountain ridge isn’t really difficult and after half an hour you have a magnificent view. We thought that the toughest part was behind. Then, we walked up and down on the ridge and enjoyed amazing views around. I think you can’t find such a nice grassy landscape anywhere else.

View from the ridge over beautiful road Transfăgărășan — *View from the ridge over Transfăgărășan*

After ca 3.5 km we stood in front of a fork. Should we take an easier route via the refuge Cabana Podragu or should we take a more scenic route and continue on the mountain ridge via a trail called “Three steps from death”? We still felt in shape so we decided for the more challenging route.

Three Steps from Death

Unfortunately, that showed up to be a big mistake. The hike would be okay with light backpacks but carrying 30 kg wasn’t fun at all. After a few hundred meters the most crucial part occurred. We had to use steel chains to get further up and subsequently down. At one point my mum lost balance and fell on her back. When my father and I looked at her we knew directly that this won’t be okay. “I twisted my ankle” she said in pain.

At this point, Moldoveanu Peak had to step aside. We had to come up with a rescue plan. I first thought we would have to call an ambulance but my mum said: “No, if I stop the ankle becomes swollen and it would be even worse. I have to continue to the nearest civilization.” My father and I were surprised by her decision but we couldn’t say anything against it. The doctor is always right, and she actually is a doctor. Looking at the map we were in the worst position. We were at two thirds of the route in between our starting point and the refuge Cabana Podragu.

Fagaras mountains in Romania during sunset — *It was getting dark and we still didn’t reach the cabin*

My mum refused to go back the same way so we decided to continue to the cabin. She tightened her shoes and we continued walking. We became slower and the sun started to go down. We realized soon that we won’t manage to reach the cabin before sunset. Instead, we decided to build tents. I found a nice tenting spot on top of a mountain only 40 meters lower than Moldoveanu Peak. Look at the view I had from my tent.

Fantastic sunset over beautiful Romanian mountains — *Green paradise going to sleep*

How to get my mum safely home?

After sunset we were planning what to do the following day. The shortest way for my mum to get to civilization was to continue to the cabin Podragu and then down through a valley to the village Arpașu de Sus so we decided for that. My father wanted to make everything easier so he decided to go back to our starting point to pick up the car to make my mum’s journey shorter. I decided to wake up at 4 am to conquer Moldoveanu Peak in the early morning and join my mum later at the cabin Podragu.

This solution had one certain advantage. I still have the opportunity to climb the highest mountain of Romania! The disadvantage was that my sleep would be very short. It could be longer but I decided to take pictures of the Milky Way. It was such a beautiful night.

Don’t bring a too heavy backpack to the mountains

In the early morning I woke up very tired but visualizing myself on the top gave me energy to start my hike. I was still halfway from our starting point though. I passed the last pieces of snow from last winter, witnessed a beautiful sunrise and enjoyed views over spacious green mountains. The journey was long and there were no people around. The only living beings I met were sheep.

It could be an amazing day but I always had on my mind that my injured mum was waiting for me, so I tried to hurry as much as I could. Two hours later though I needed a break. I suddenly became too tired to continue. I decided to leave my tent and sleeping bag under a large stone to have a lighter backpack. My hike became better but not for a long time. Soon I was tired again. The backpack was still over 20 kg. I decided to even leave my drone and my computer under several stones in order to be able to continue.

On the top of Moldoveanu Peak

One more hour and I finally conquered Moldoveanu Peak. I was super tired but the view was excellent. A pity I couldn’t enjoy it for a long time because my mum was waiting. I didn’t want to let her go alone. In the end I stayed only for the essential pictures before I headed back.

Selfie on top of Moldoveanu Peak, the highest peak of Romania — *Tired on the top of Moldoveanu Peak*

On the way back I realized I didn’t have any local money and no food either so my mum was the only potential source of new energy at the cabin Podragu. After realizing that I even started to run back. Luckily, I found one Lifebar Protein energy bar in my bag which gave me enough energy to see my mum. She was still waiting. She said her deadline before leaving was in ten minutes. How lucky I was.

Never ending descent

I ordered a local soup, a main dish and a local beer. Much better. I felt like a reborn Jarda. I felt ready to descend. My mum got new energy too but her ankle still hurt. Let’s hope we’ll make it. If I said the journey to Moldoveanu Peak was long, then I don’t know what to say about the descent to the village Arpașu de Sus. First few kilometers were scenic but once we got into the forest the journey got boring and never ending. Even my watch turned off because of low battery. That long was this terrible descent.

Sheep in Romanian mountains — *Besides my parents, the only living beings I met in Romanian mountains*

When it looked like we are finally reaching the road where my father was supposed to wait, the path suddenly started to go up. One turn, second turn, third turn, fourth turn until I suddenly screamed: “Kurv∗!” Only 10 more turns up and finally the hill ended. Then we just had to go steeply down and there was my father waiting. We managed!

After taking off her shoes, my mum’s ankle got three times bigger and she wasn’t able to walk on it for one month. Never underestimate mountains. This could end up much worse but we managed in the end. So proud of my parents.

My tips for the mountain Moldoveanu Peak:

Don’t underestimate Moldoveanu Peak.
Make the summit in two days. Tent halfway or stay over in the cozy refuge Podragu.
If you have longer time you can cross the whole Făgăraș mountain ridge. The whole trip takes ca 7 days.

July 2, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to successfully and safely climb Europe’s highest peak Elbrus

Many people consider Mont Blanc to be Europe’s highest mountain. In fact, it is the Russian mountain Elbrus in the Caucasus Mountains. Elbrus is a volcano with two peaks. The western one measures 5,642 meters and is 21 meters higher than its eastern brother. Compared to Mont Blanc it is technically simple to climb Elbrus but it is demanding due to meteorological conditions and high altitude. This is your ultimate guide for reaching its peak including maps, an ideal itinerary and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Elbrus via the south route (the normal route)

Short description of the ascent from Terskol: Demanding multiday climb on glacier 
Essential equipment: Full glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (July and August are best)
Height of the peak: 5,642 m
Distance to the top: 6.4 km (one way without acclimatization)  
Time to ascend from Garabashi village to Elbrus: 4 days are recommended (see recommended itinerary below)
Elevation climbed (Garabashi - Elbrus): 1,778 m 
Water availability on the mountain: At all the huts on the way.
Difficulty level: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Baltika 7 Eksportnoe ** (6 stars maximum)

The most popular route to Elbrus – the south route

The most popular route to the summit of Elbrus is the Normal Route, also known as the South Route. Here is its description:

Starting Point – Terskol (2,150 m):
- The journey typically begins in the town of Terskol, where climbers organize their gear and make final preparations. From Terskol, it’s also popular to make first acclimatization trip to mountain Chezem (3,461 m). It’s possible to hike up or take a lift from Cheget.
Azau (2,350 m) – Garabashi (3,800 m):
- After acclimatization at Terskol and Chezem, it’s time to move towards Elbrus. You can either hike up to the Garabashi Barrels huts or take a cable car. It is regarded as the base camp for the ascent.
Acclimatization Hikes between Garabashi and Pastukhov Rocks (4,600 m):
- Before attempting the summit, climbers undertake acclimatization hikes to higher elevations. These hikes help the body adjust to the reduced oxygen levels. It’s recommended to hike up to Maria Shelter (4,100m) on Day 1 and to the Pastukhov Rocks (4,600 meters) on Day 2.
High Camp Maria Shelter:
- Before the summit push, climbers move to the high camp at Maria Shelter (4,100 m). This camp provides a strategic starting point for the final ascent.
Summit Day:
- The summit push usually begins in the early hours of the morning to take advantage of stable weather conditions. The route is well marked and isn’t particularly technically demanding but the altitude is very high and proper acclimatization is necessary. It’s highly recommended not to to climb the summit in bad weather conditions as hard winds and visibility are the most common reasons of accidents.
West Summit (5,642 m):
- There are two summits on Mount Elbrus – the West Summit and the East Summit. The West Summit is slightly higher and is the primary goal for most climbers.

Map of the climb of Elbrus via the south route (the normal route)

What is the highest peak of Europe?

Many people think that Mont Blanc is the highest mountain of Europe but is it true? Is Elbrus in Europe? By definition, the border between Europe and Asia is formed by the Caucasus watershed. That places Elbrus in Europe because it lies on the northern side of the watershed in Russia, the European part of the Caucasus. According to this definition there is no doubt about the highest point of our continent.

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Russia – Elbrus

I climbed Elbrus as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I flew to Russia with my father and my friend Alča. We met at the Istanbul airport and arrived together to the Mineralnye Vody airport. There we didn’t stay long. We took a taxi (very cheap – 4500 RUR for 180 km) to Terskol, a mountain village and main center of the Caucasus mountains.

When we arrived we couldn’t find our pre-booked accommodation for a while. Google Maps were showing the wrong spot. I wasn’t surprised because I had similar experiences in other Eastern European countries. It would be interesting to know why Google Maps often show inaccurate information from these countries. However, helpful locals showed us the way so we easily found our cozy guest house. We were tired after a long journey so we fell asleep at eight o’clock, accompanied by lightning and rain.

Acclimatization is the key to success

For the next day we planned an acclimation climb to Chezem mountain (3,461 m). We took a lift in Terskol to 3,095 m and took a nice hike to the peak. Chezem seemed to be very near. But it wasn’t. Even at this altitude nothing comes for free. It took us about an hour and a half to reach it. All in all, it was a very nice acclimatization walk. We warmed up our muscles and we were rewarded with a magnificent view of both “Elbrus’ breasts”.

We decided to stay on the top as long as possible to acclimatize as much as possible. In the end we spent over two hours sunbathing and watching the surrounding snow-capped peaks. We were happy to climb Elbrus. All the other mountains in the area were much sharper, which would mean a technically more demanding climb.

A photo with a description of climb to Elbrus — *This will be our climb*

Next day we were ready. Time to move towards Elbrus. We ordered a taxi that took us to village Azau, the starting point to Europe’s highest mountain. There you have three options how to get up. Either you can take the old cable car, the new cable car, or you can climb your own. The village of Azau is only 2,350 meters above sea level, which means that you have to overcome an altitude of 3,350 meters to the top of Elbrus. Given that the path led along the cable car all the time we decided to use the invention of today’s civilization.

Visual description of climb to Elbrus — *A “beautiful” painting but useful map for the upcoming climb at the old cable car entrance*

Sleeping in a container

We took the new cable car and after two changes we reached the height of 3,800 m above sea level. The only climbers we saw from the cable car were soldiers on duty. The container village of Garabashi lies just next to the end of the highest lift. We started searching for accommodation. It didn’t take us a long time. We found a free container with eight beds in a few minutes. We were lucky. For 800 rubles a night we got the whole container just for ourselves. Traveling before the high season showed its advantages.

Container housing at Elbrus base camp -picture inside — *This will be our home for the following days*

The accommodation was very modest. We actually didn’t expect anything in the container except for the beds. But we were surprised that there is electricity and heating in the end. It looks like we won’t freeze. It was also great that there was also a café at the top of the lift so we could order both food and drinks and save our food supplies.

We wanted to take it easy the first day to get used to the altitude but we were feeling good and were a bit bored so we took a walk to Maria Shelter – the last container village at an altitude of 4,100 m. It took us an hour to get there. The beautiful sunny day wasn’t only perfect because of passing snowcats which were taking Russian tourists to a height of 5,000 meters.

Container housing at Elbrus base camp -picture from outside — *Maria Shelter at 4,100 m*

We decided to relax at Maria Shelter for a while but we couldn’t stay long. A very strong wind arrived. It was so cold that we decided to return. How hard can it blow on the top when it is already so windy here? We returned to our container just before the arrival of the next afternoon storm.

The next day we planned to acclimatize by ascending to Pastukhov Rocks at the altitude of 4,700 meters. We were feeling well again. However, when we entered a cloud at an altitude of 4,400 meters, the temperature suddenly dropped and we were freezing. Despite that we managed to get to 4,700 meters but we couldn’t get any higher. The wind was too strong. On the way down another storm arrived and it started to hail. We were returning while covering our faces from painful hail.

View after the storm of beautiful sunset under Elbrus — *View after the storm*

The weather wasn’t looking good even for the following days. The wind was supposed to grow even stronger and clouds with snow settled on the top. The only thing we could do was playing cards in our container and walking up and down the same route to acclimatize. The weather forecast showed that the next weather gap might come in three days. Then we can hopefully climb Elbrus.

From Azau to Elbrus

My father and friend Alča planned to acclimatize during the following days. I felt acclimatized enough (my previous climb to Dufourspitze definitely helped) and was bored by going up and down the same path all the time so I was looking for an alternative program for the next two days. In the end I decided to climb the part from village Azau to Garabaši where I “cheated” by going up with the cable car at the beginning. At an altitude below 4,000 meters bad weather shouldn’t matter. In the worst case I will get wet. I won’t melt. I’m not made of sugar.

Hike from Azau to Garabaši and a viewpoint to Azau — *Hike from Azau to Garabaši*

I did as I had planned. I went down with the first cable car. When I reached the village Azau I bought some extra food supplies since our stay on Elbrus will be longer and started to climb up the ski slope. I enjoyed my hike. There were very nice views. I was even lucky with the weather. The rain and fog showed up as late as when I reached the second last cable car station – Mir at 3,500 m. It actually didn’t rain. It looked like an apocalypse. The thunderstorm brought all rain, hail and snow and I realized I am actually partly made of sugar.

Crazy weather on Elbrus

Luckily I found one open café where I could take shelter. I wanted to wait for better weather but it was still raining cats and dogs for an hour. What will I do? The café was closing and I was ready to continue climbing up in the insane weather but I was saved outside by a snowcat. It was going up with supplies. I was a little ashamed that I have to “cheat” again but the weather was really bad.

The next morning we woke up to a sunny day but the wind was still too strong for climbing Elbrus. That’s why I decided to complete my last day’s interrupted climb. I returned to Mir where the snowcat saved me last night and continued climbing up to Garabaši. This time there were no obstacles.

*Hiking in good weather on Elbrus is easy*

When I got back to our container we checked the weather forecast again. It looked like it should finally be good weather for the summit on the following day. We decided to move to the highest container village – Maria Shelter and attempt to climb Elbrus the following day.

Going up around noon with a heavy backpack was nothing pleasant. The sky was clear and the sun was burning. Exactly how I imagine staying in the desert – with the only difference, here you have to carry all the winter gear. The climb was not long, but it exhausted me anyway. I was glad I didn’t have to do anything for the rest of the day. Just relax and finally get ready for the climb to Elbrus.

The forecast really looked great. There should be a big storm from afternoon to midnight but then it should windless and cloudless for two days. It was supposed to be cold (around -15°C) but this shouldn’t be a problem with no wind. It sounded like ideal conditions for an ascent.

We prepared everything we needed and went to bed at eight in the evening to get some rest before the alarm clock would ring at midnight. We were falling asleep during the loudest storm of our whole stay in Russia. That was forecast though. It will surely leave before midnight.

Blizzard at Elbrus

We woke up at midnight but the thunderstorm was still there. It was still very strong so we decided to move the alarm clock by an hour. We woke up later at 1 a.m. but the storm hadn’t changed. Still snowing and thundering. This time we decided to get up. The storm will disappear before we finish breakfast.

We took a tea and oatmeal with dried fruits. We ate everything quickly and prepared to leave. It was positive that the thunder and lightning disappeared. On the other hand it was still snowing heavily and the wind seemed to be even stronger. Since the forecast was predicting a nice sunny day, we decided to try it anyway with the hope that the storm would leave soon.

We started to climb up but it was difficult. There was about thirty centimeters of new snow. Although two groups set out for their climbs before us we had no chance of finding their tracks. Too heavy snowfall.

Weather won this time

We were very slow (actually twice slower than during our acclimatization ascents) and the weather was still not getting better. We continued up in the dark and blizzard. Suddenly we heard a snowcat. Russian climbers decided to simplify their climb and go by the snowcat up to 5,000 meters above sea level. However, the huge amount of new snow was tough even for the snowcat. It passed us but turned around soon. The driver saw that it would be impossible to climb Elbrus that day and returned back to the barrel village. When we saw the snowcat failure we decided to give up as well and returned to bed.

Insane storm on Elbrus — *The storm was completely insane*

Next day we woke up in the most beautiful weather. The fresh snow created beautiful scenery but we felt bad because of our fail. Last night mother nature showed us its power. Luckily, we had one more opportunity the following day, on the last day of our Russian visa. The weather was supposed to be prefect and even with no storm the night before. Now or never!

Last chance to climb Elbrus

Next day we woke up into a clear night with no wind. These were the conditions we have been waiting and hoping for. We took a quick breakfast and started to climb up. Everything went incomparably better than the previous night. This time we started at a pace of 350 elevation meters per hour. We passed other groups which set out to the summit earlier, and enjoyed the peace of a beautiful mountain night. The only thing that disturbed the climb was again the snowmobiles taking up lazy tourists as close as possible to the top.

Fantastic view from 5000m at Elbrus — *Today or never. View from ca 5,000 m* *of elevation*

The higher we were the colder it got. We had to put on our down jackets and took some hot tea. It warmed us up except our frozen feet. We have to continue climbing up and wait for the sun to rise. Then it will be warm.

At 5,000 meters the sun finally rose above the horizon and started to warm our frozen bodies. There the road for snowcats ended too. Now it’s going to be beautiful. With the sun and without hum of annoying snowmobiles. Our speed dropped with every hundred meters of altitude. From 5,000 meters we took a short break after every 20 steps to properly oxygenate the body. With this pace we were still one of the fastest groups. Especially larger groups with Russian mountain guides were moving at a really snail pace. I think I would freeze. I was glad to have read the warnings on various blogs beforehand: We don’t recommend ordering local guides.

At the elevation of 5,100 meters we had to take a longer break. Alča got a headache due to the altitude. She took one ibuprofen, took a lot of water and we continued.

The final push to Elbrus

At the altitude of 5,300 meters we finally got to the valley between the Eastern and Western Peak. There was no wind and a pleasantly warm sun and the climbers took advantage of it. They were taking the last break and snack before the final ascent. We couldn’t resist and also took a short break

The final climb and last 300 elevation meters were the steepest. There was even a fixed rope that most climbers used to secure themselves. From the last break we were climbing up really slowly – 10 steps − pause − 10 steps − pause. After an hour we finally reached the horizon and saw the summit. Now it will be easy. The last passage is almost without elevation.

Selfie from the top of Elbrus — *We made it. This is the view from the top*

The weather was still great so we had very nice views. The last part was a nice alpine walk. We reached the top among the first climbers, though just after a large group of back-country skiers so we had to queue for our summit selfie. But we didn’t care. It was a beautiful day so we enjoyed the views. On one side we could see the vast Russian lowland and on the other sharp Georgian peaks. I wouldn’t mind if time stopped for a while. This moment was amazing. After nine troubled days we had finally reached the top of Elbrus. It was the last day our visas were valid. We wouldn’t get any other opportunity during this visit.

Now there is another challenge. Our flight from Mineralny Vody is leaving in 14 hours. Fortunately, it was very easy to descend in this beautiful weather. I managed to descend to the Maria Shelter just in 1 hour and 30 minutes. Then we just took three lifts and a taxi and we could still make a toast with Russian vodka at the airport. Mission completed!

My tips for climbing the mountain Elbrus:

The way to the top of Elbrus from the south is not technically demanding. One can even climb to the top without ropes. The path is perfectly marked but it is very important not to leave the trail. If you don’t follow the route you can easily end up in a crevasse.
This is only valid in good weather. In poor visibility, strong wind or snow one can easily get lost as we could see the previous day.
Do not underestimate acclimatization!
Although you can find information on the internet that you don’t need your own sleeping bag to stay in the container villages I highly recommend to bring it. You do not want to use old blankets used by numerous climbers before you.
Although some barrels offer kitchenettes, do not rely on them and bring your own cooking equipment.
Avoid large groups with Russian mountain guides. Their clients are often badly acclimatized.

Aerial view of the highest peak in Moldova - Dealul Balanesti

June 25, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest peak of Moldova – Dealul Balanesti

Statistics say that Moldova is the poorest country in Europe, the country is visited by the least tourists and the average European probably knows very little about Moldova. These were the reasons why I was looking forward to visiting this country. How is the visit of the country’s highest point Dealul Bălănești (also sometimes called Bălănești hill)? This article will give you all important information of the highest point of Moldova, including my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Moldova – Dealul Bălănești

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Food and drinks in Bălănești, accommodation hard to find, spend nights in the capital Chisinau
Height of the peak: 430 m
Hiking distance: 1.9 km 
Elevation on the way to the top: 177 m
Time to ascend to  Bălănești: 0,5-1 hour up, 0,5-1 hour down 
Water availability on the mountain: village Bălănești
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Chișinău Specială Tare *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Dealul Bălănești

My story of reaching Dealul Bălănești with personal tips

I visited the highest point of Moldova as a part of the European Peaks project during which I climbed the highest point of every European country. My journey started in the Moldovan capital Chisinau where I arrived from the Ukrainian village Vorokhta. It wasn’t a short trip. My friends and I had to use four different means of transport (train, bus, trolley bus and taxi). Since I enjoyed travelling by Ukrainian trains (as described in the previous article), I was looking forward even to this trip. However, I soon found out that the enjoyment won’t apply to Ukrainian-Moldovan night buses.

Potholes and constant turns didn’t allow me to asleep for a minute and when I finally managed we just came to the border where we had to spend over two hours for the customs inspection of our bus. How I missed Schengen! In the end we reached Chisinau after 16 hours. Fortunately, another former classmate Kurt was waiting for us in Chisinau. He fixed accommodation in a nice hotel in the city center, right next to the bus stop so we could go to sleep directly after our arrival.

The largest winery in the world

When we woke up we wanted to learn about Chisinau on a local free guided tour. The problem was that there is no such thing in Chisinau. Just another confirmation that only a few tourists visit the country. We had to look for an alternative program. In the end we decided for a visit of the largest wine cellar in the world – Cricova.

Cricova had been the largest producer of wine in the Soviet Union (up to half of the production was made here) and continued growing even after its collapse. Today, its cellars are as large as a medium-sized city. There are 110 kilometers of roads underground and hundreds of storage rooms for wine. The tour was interesting. We visited multiple storage rooms as well as presidential halls where significant guests such as Merkel or Putin tasted local wines.

Fancy wines in this underground street of Cricova winery — *You’ll find a lot of fancy wines in this underground street*

Not surprisingly, we looked forward to the tasting held at the end of the tour. During the tasting ceremony we could test four wines and I must say that I was surprised by the quality of Moldovan wines. I will not list all the flavors of citrus, nuts, ginger, chocolate and olives which I should have recognized according to the guide but I definitely liked the wines a lot.

A little party never killed nobody

Tasting table at Cricova winery — *Tasting is ready*

As we got curious about other wines too, we also visited the local restaurant afterwards. We got lucky. There were no guests so the staff offered us one of the presidential halls. There we continued tasting exceptional wines.

I don’t know if the waiter knew what the risks were, but we were suggested to play our own music in the hall. At first the music created a pleasant atmosphere. After a few bottles of wine though, the guests started to sing along. At first it was calm singing, but when the Queen’s song Bohemian Rhapsody occurred on the playlist the guests couldn’t control the volume anymore. Waiter Juraj started to regret his offer but he didn’t turn the music off, just professionally told us that other guests would be glad to enjoy their dinner in quiet. This remark was enough for us to stop our presidential party.

Our luxury party ended but there was one more point in our program. We found out that Ladislav Zibura, one of the most famous Czech travelers and writers, is in the city and he invited us to dinner with local Czechs working for non-profit organizations. At this unusual Czech meeting in Chişinău everyone initially looked serious. We talked about the serious issues of poverty and other major problems Moldova has been dealing with. After a few drinks, however, the conversation turned to more cheerful topics and the party was soon on. We continued to local clubs where our friend Kurt, the winner of the Star Dance contest, turned the evening into the biggest party of my expedition.

Unexpected trips are always the best

Selfie in Tiraspol, Transinistria — *Unexpected* visit of Transinistria

During the party I was feeling like there couldn’t be a better preparation for climbing the highest mountain in Moldova but I changed my mind in the morning. I was so hangover that I couldn’t drive. I will need a one day break which we filled in by a trip to Transnistria, a de facto independent country.

Easter on the Moldovan countryside

Village Bălănești below the highest peak of Moldova — *Village Bălănești below the highest peak of the country*

The plan worked out. I was ready the next day. I rented a car, picked up my new friend Klára and finally went on a trip to Dealul Bălănești. We passed a lot of socialist architectural gems (huge concrete buildings) and soon left the city. In the Moldovan countryside I was most impressed by the number of decorated wells and bizarre bus stops. It looked like there is a competition in Moldova for the most decorated stop/well in Moldova. It must be difficult to choose the winner.

Old lady in Moldovan shop — *Babushka sitting in a small grocery store in Bălăneşti*

In an hour and a half we arrived to the village of Bălăneşti, the starting point for the short hike to Dealul Bălănești. I was surprised that we drove on mostly new roads. Impressive. We parked close to the local grocery store where we bought an Easter cake and continued to the peak. We had a pleasant walk, passed several nice country houses with colorful fences, blooming trees, another well and a local farmer.

Two tourists on the highest point of Moldova — *Cheers on the highest point of Moldova*

The peak was already near. We reached it in a few minutes and enjoyed a beautiful spring day. There we had a small picnic with beer and an Easter cake. A nice end of the Moldovan trip.

My tips for climbing the mountain Dealul Bălănești:

There are several hiking trails around the summit. Browse the beautiful Moldovan countryside.
Be aware which car you rent. Even though the road to Bălănești was 95% on asphalt there was a short part on a dirt road. After heavy rain it might be very muddy.
Visit the Cricova winery. It is a great cultural and tasting experience.

View from the highest point of Ukraine - Hoverla

June 18, 2023 • 0 Comment

Practical guide to the highest mountain of Ukraine – Hoverla

The Carpathians are a large mountain range spreading from Poland to Ukraine and they offer amazing hiking opportunities in many countries. The eastern Carpathians aren’t an exception. In Ukraine we can find peaks over 2,000 meters high. How is the hike to the highest mountain Hoverla with its peak at 2,061 meters? In this article, I will provide you with all important information you need before your visit including my personal experience.

The best route to Hoverla

There are two popular routes to Hoverla. Both of them start at the mountain settlement Zarosliak which you can reach by car or taxi from the village Vorokhta. From there, you can follow either the green or blue path. Both are similarly long and difficult. I would recommend the green path though, because it’s a bit more gentle and it offers better views on the final ridge between Mala Hoverla (little Hoverla) and Hoverla.

Map of the climb to Hoverla

Important information for climbing Hoverla

Short description of the ascent from Pec pod Sněžkou: Moderate hike
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: At the start of the hike
Height of the peak: 2,061 m
Hiking distance: 3.3 km 
Time to ascend to Hoverla: 1,5-2,5 hours up, 1-2 hours down 
Elevation climbed: 790 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Only at the start of the hike
Difficulty level: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Putin Huilo ****** (6 stars maximum)

My story of climbing Hoverla with personal tips

To reach the Ukrainian mountains, my friends and I wanted to take an interesting night train from Minsk, Belarus to Lviv. Unfortunately, such a journey is impossible due to the complicated Belarusian visa requirements. If you want to visit Belarus without a visa, you must enter and leave the country via Minsk airport. That’s why we had to take a 500-kilometer-long flight to Lviv, becoming the most unnecessary ecological footprint of my expedition.

Travelling to Hoverla in a moving museum

Hoverla is located about 200 kilometers from Lviv, so we had another trip ahead. This time we could finally take a train. We arrived to Vorokhta, a village at the foot of Hoverla exactly on time. Ukrainian trains work like Swiss watches. It is just a pity that they do not run as fast as trains in Switzerland. It still took us six and a half hours to pass 200 km. Anyway, traveling by Ukrainian trains was a great experience. It is like travelling by a living “skansen”.

Lviv train station — *Boarding the train in Lviv*

The next day we were looking forward to climbing the highest Ukrainian mountain. Since April nights in Ukraine are still very cold and there is still a lot of snow in the mountains, we didn’t want to climb the mountain in the morning when the surface would be slippery. We didn’t have any crampons with us and you can’t hire any in Vorokhta. So we decided to climb Hoverla after lunch.

Aerial view of village Vorokhta and Ukrainian mountains — *Vorokhta from above*

After eating a delicious potato pancake we called a taxi to go to the starting point of the hike to Hoverla – Zarosliak. Oleg who has worked on various projects in the Czech Republic for eleven years came with his taxi to pick us up. He could speak Czech fluently so we had a nice conversation. Apparently Oleg was pleased with his life in Ukraine, he was just complaining a bit about bad local roads and politicians who always promise to repair them but never do.

Rules are rules

In thirty minutes we arrived to the gate of the Carpathian National Park. We woke up a local guard of the national park and asked him to open the gate for us. However, he didn’t want to give us permission: “There was a big accident two weeks ago. Four tourists got lost in the fog and died in an avalanche.”

Unfortunately he didn’t listen to our arguments that we are experienced mountaineers, that there is beautiful weather and that I climbed the mountain three years ago. He just added: “If you want to climb Hoverla you have to come tomorrow in the morning. Then the snow will be frozen and safe. Goodbye.” He closed the door and continued sleeping. Tomorrow is a day too.

Spring flowers in Ukrainian mountains — *Spring has already arrived to Ukraine*

We woke up very early the next day because we had to climb Hoverla, get back to Vorokhta and take the train towards Moldova, the next stop of my expedition. We found the guard of the national park sleeping again. However, this time he opened the gate and let us in without problems. Today we will conquer Hoverla!

Carpathian National Nature Park

From the gate, the road began to twist upward. The road was in a surprisingly good shape but snow showed up after a few kilometers. At first, there were some remains of winter, but after a while the wheels of the taxi disappeared in half a meter of deep snow. Several times we had to get out and dig up the tires.

After an hour we got to Zarosliak, a village at 1,250 m above sea level. It used to be a famous mountain village boasting of a large ski jump. The famous times are though over. Both the ski jump and the hotel nearby are deteriorating. At this time of the year even all the shops were closed. The whole area seemed to be empty.

Ruins of Zarosliak ski jump in Ukraine — *Remainings of former ski jump centre*

We started our hike towards Hoverla. We soon realized we are not the only ones doing a winter climb. It was obvious that several people climbed the summit during the previous days since there were many traces in snow. This was good. Thanks to the trails in the snow our ascent was easier.

The best beer of my expedition

Beautiful river Hoverla — *River Hoverla at the beginning of the hike*

The hike was not particularly demanding. We managed to get to the top in just two hours. It was a beautiful spring day and we enjoyed amazing views of the Eastern Carpathians with beer Putin Huilo (btw the best beer of my expedition) from the Pravda brewery in Lviv and cheered to our successful ascent.

Peak selfie from Hoverla mountain — *Peak selfie*

On the way back to Zarosliak we were sad that we didn’t have skis with us. The slope would be perfect but we checked our backpacks and found plastic bags, another great means of transport. We had a luxurious ride! Thanks to our improvised sledges we passed half the elevation meters just in a few minutes. We were back in Zarosliak at noon, just in time to catch our taxi and train towards Moldova. Ukrainian mission completed!

Aerial view of mountain Hoverla — *Cheers with the best beer of the expedition – Putin Huilo from Pravda brewery*

My tips for climbing the mountain Hoverla

Even though Hoverla is climbable the whole year, be aware that there is a lot of snow during winter. There can be avalanche danger.
Follow the instructions of the national park guards.
If you travel to Ukrainian mountains use the trains. An amazing experience.

June 4, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to reach the highest point of the European side of Turkey – Mahya Dagi

Mahya Dağı in the Turkish Strandja Mountains is probably the only mountain in the project European Peaks where I didn’t like my stay and I was looking forward to leave. At the top there is a base of the Turkish army and they don’t like to be spied on or even photographed. I would like to mention something positive about climbing the top of Mahya Dağı, but unfortunately there is no such thing. You can reach the summit by car and there is a nice view but nothing remarkable. Anyway, this is your guide how to reach the highest point of European side of Turkey including my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of of European side of Turkey – Mahya Dagi

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Height of the peak: 1,031 m
Hiking distance: 0 m - you can park just next to the highest point
(If you want to walk to the highest point there is a heliport nearby the peak and you can park next to it)
Time to ascend: 0 minutes (you can park just next to the highest point) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Efes lager ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Mahya Dagi

My story of reaching Mahya Dagi with personal tips

I climbed the highest point of European side of Turkey as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Mahya Dağı with an elevation of 1,031 m is the highest point of the European part of Turkey only. The highest absolute point in Turkey is Mount Ararat with a height of 5,137 meters. However, it is located in the Asian part of the country, so it isn’t included in this project.

Turkish flag in Istanbul — *Welcome to Turkey*

I visited Turkey by myself. It was actually just a 24 hour stopover on the way to Russia to climb Elbrus, the highest point of Europe. I landed at Istanbul airport, picked up my rental car and drove to the west.

Crazy Istanbul traffic

Soon I discovered the main obstacle on the way to Mahya Dağı – transport. Istanbul is Europe’s largest city, so it isn’t surprising that it is known for traffic jams. Since I landed in the Asian part of Istanbul I had to drive through the whole city. It was rush hour so I had fun being stuck in traffic.

My goal was to stay as close as possible to Mahya Daği so that I could get up early in the morning and climb the summit during sunrise. The mountain isn’t a popular tourist destination so there weren’t many possibilities. In the end I stayed at a hotel in the village Saray about one hour’s drive from Mahya Daği.

Due to the traffic jams I arrived at the hotel very late. I was surprised how lively the local restaurant was. Why is everyone so happy? I realized it when I got to my room. It was Ramadan. Muslims came to life after dark. I was tired though and didn’t join the festivities. Instead I went to sleep to wake up for sunrise at Mahya Daği.

Dangerous selfie

I woke up at 4:30. It was tough to get out of bed but it was worth it. The advantage of traveling early was that the roads were completely empty. I reached the summit of Mahya Daği exactly at sunrise. I stopped about 300 meters below the mountain with a nice view on the summit to take some pictures.

After picture time, I continued up. Since there is a military base and since it is strictly prohibited to photograph on Mahya Daği (I had read from previous visitors that there is even a risk of an arrest because of taking photos) I drove as quietly as possible not to disturb the potential security on the top. I needed at least one photo from there.

Heliport at Mahya Daği with a view — *Heliport at Mahya Daği*

I parked at an old heliport just below the summit. I had a nice view of the morning shadow of the mountain. It was obvious that Mahya Daği isn’t that small of a hill. I walked the last hundred meters to the summit in silence. I must say I felt respect. Barbed wires, huge photo-prohibiting signs, and a frightening-looking radar suggested that the Turkish armed forces would really get rid of the photo shooting Jarda quickly. Being arrested in Turkey has never been one of my dreams so I secretly took only one decent selfie and returned to my car. Overall, it was my shortest visit of all the European mountains.

Slefie at the highest point of European side of Turkey — *Due to this picture I could have been in jail*

My mission was complete. I still had a half day before my flight to Russia so I took advantage of it and discovered Istanbul. I mostly liked the Grand Bazaar which is visited by over a quarter of a million people every day. You’ll find everything there. I bought the perfect energy supplies for Elbrus in the form of dried fruit and Turkish delight.

A boy jumps into water in Istanbul — *Quick jump to Istanbul*

My tips for climbing the mountain Mahya Dağı:

Mahya Dağı isn’t a very interesting place. However, adrenaline enthusiasts will enjoy visiting the summit. Where else in Europe can you be arrested for just taking a photo?
Avoid rush hour.

April 9, 2023 • 0 Comment

The highest peak of Jordan – Jabal Umm ad Dami

Jordan impressed me like no other country before. It has so much to offer. I didn’t have high expectations before my trip but I enjoyed every single day in the country at the crossroads of the continents of Asia, Africa and Europe. The best experience was definitely the climb of the highest point of the country. Do you wonder why? Follow my story of visiting Jabal Umm ad Dami.

Date of summit: 6th December 2022 9:30 
Traveling mode: Hiking
Height of the peak: 1.854m
Hiking distance: 2.78km 
Hiking time: 1 hours 26 minutes  
Elevation climbed: 359m
Map of my journey to Jabal Umm ad Dami: Suunto map
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Petra lager beer 5% *** (6 stars maximum)

It took me more than four years after the last time to visit a country outside Europe again. That’s a lot compared to the times before covid and my expedition European Peaks when I usually made one trip a year outside the old continent. I simply couldn’t wait for such an adventure. I am happy that my friends Jan and Mates joined me for this trip so we all could enjoy the rich history and culture, amazing food and astonishing landscapes of Jordan.

This time, I will skip describing the start of our trip when we visited the Dead Sea and Petra (btw, both very exciting and unique tourist attractions), and I will move directly to Wadi Rum, a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan which hides the highest mountain of the country – Jabal Umm ad Dami.

Reading a book at Dead Sea — *My friend Mates reading a book at Dead Sea*

How to climb the highest mountain of Jordan – Jabal Umm ad Dami?

Wadi rum is a large desert and it offers such wonderful sceneries that today it is a protected area that has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2011. No wonder that it is popular among tourists. They usually visit Wadi Rum by organized tours booked in advance. I would recommend the same, especially if you come during the high season (March-May, September-November). Tour operators are limited and the available spots fill in fast. Even though we visited Wadi Rum during the low season (early December), we also booked our trip in advance. We made a thorough research and selected Wadi Rum Magic Tours which had the best reviews.

It turned out to be an excellent choice. We booked a two day tour during which we were supposed to climb the mountain on day 1 and we still had a chance to explore the most interesting sights of the desert during day 2. Our guide Arid was a local bedouin who had a great experience with both the highest mountain and the most interesting sights in the desert. He was also a skillful cook and prepared tasty local dishes which we appreciated a lot after long days in the desert. What we enjoyed most though was his flexibility and sense of humour. We had a lot of fun together and he was okay with our wish to replan the program a bit and make the summit of Jabal Umm ad Dami for sunset.

Jeep tour in Wadi Rum

When I travel abroad and visit new places I always try to schedule my visits of the most interesting and famous places differently than others to skip the crowds. I am very happy we did the same in Wadi Rum. Similarly like anywhere else, all the organized tours follow similar patterns. All start at the same time, follow the sights one by one. Even here most of the jeeps go together and you are basically in the crowd the whole day. If you make a trip to Wadi Rum, try to ask to start earlier for instance.

We had another trick for the highest mountain of Jordan. We heard that nobody climbs Jabal Umm ad Dami at sunset time so we asked our guide if we could do so. He became curious about this idea. He wanted to witness the views during late hours as well so we changed the normal plan and set out for the peak after lunch.

It was perfect because even other interesting sights in the desert were already without other tourists. On the way we managed to see for example the chicken and egg rocks where we had so much time for ourselves that our guide could boast of his cool climbing skills. We were definitely impressed because he managed a tough boulder problem even while smoking a cigarette. We took a few pictures and moved finally towards the highest mountain of the country.

The chicken and egg in Jordan desert — *The chicken and egg*

Picnic at Jabal Umm ad Dami

The highest point of Jordan is far from all the bedouin settlements. It is situated nearby Saudi Arabia’s border and it takes over an hour to drive to the foot of the mountain from the Wadi Rum village. It takes time to make it to the top compared other sights in the desert but it brings the advantage that not many people are interested in the climb. If you want to experience something unique in the desert and without crowds, it is an excellent opiton.

We started our climb at 2:30pm. Here I wondered: Why so early when we want to be at the top for sunset? The path is rocky and partly sandy. I recommend high and closed shoes. I had outdoor running shoes which often work perfectly for such hikes but it was a big mistake this time. If you don’t want to have your shoes full of sand, choose something more durable. Alternatively, take it easy and behave like our guide. He decided to climb in his flip flops (no, this was a joke. Flip flops might be okay for locals because they grew up in the desert and are very skillful in the mountains but proper equipment is recommended here, especially if you are in the desert for the first time).

In general, the equipment of our guide was a bit funny. Besides his “shoes”, I also have to leave here a comment about his “backpack”. Instead of a rucksack, he carried up a small duffel bag. Lol. Regardless of the equipment, the guide was the fastest of us and while waiting for us, he was collecting local herbs to make a surprise for us at the top.

Once we successfully climbed the peak (btw, not a long climb as we made it in one and half hours but still a little challenge because of slippery sand), Arid set up a fire and made a very nice tea. How many times can you say you had a tea from the herbs of the mountain made freshly on the mountain top?

Cooking tea at Jabal Umm ad Dami — *Happy Arid cooking tea*

Wonderful sunset over the whole Jordan

Here comes the answer to my question. The biggest advantage of our early summit was that we could enjoy a wonderful time on the mountain top. It was perfect weather and we were sunbathing while drinking the tea and looking over Wadi Rum desert on one side and Saudi Arabia on the other. What a moment it was! I usually spend some time on mountain tops but I am mostly busy photographing the landscapes. Here, we stayed over two hours and most of the times we just relaxed and enjoyed the wonderful views and talk with our guide.

After the epic sunset our steps led back down. Half of the way was still during daylight but we needed headlamps for the second part. If you want to climb the mountain to see sunset, don’t forget them. When it got dark I was a bit scared for our guide. The surface was sometimes very slippery and difficult to see but my worries were unnecessary. Of course, the guide made it fastest even on the way down, despite his flip flops.

The toughest part of the day was on the way to our camp by jeep. December nights are pretty cold so don’t forget a feather jacket. You will sit on the back of a jeep outside so you need proper clothing not to freeze to death. Luckily, we had warm clothes so we survived the 90 minutes long journey. We arrived a bit cold but our day ended with an amazing bedouin buffet in a desert tent village. Good night and a new fairy tale coming soon!

Celebration of successful summit of Jabal Umm ad Dami during sunset — Celebration of successful summit of Jabal Umm ad Dami

*360 view over the highest mountain of Jordan*

March 26, 2023 • 0 Comment

Swedish hidden gem – Gotska Sandön

Sweden has been experiencing one of the hottest summer in its history. The hot weather made me and my fiancé discover an island with wonderful beaches and pleasantly cool water. Have you heard about Gotska Sandön? I wouldn’t be surprised if not. This might be the national park with the worst marketing in Scandinavia. Joanne and I found information about it in a random book. There is very little information online, especially in English. But do you know what? That is exactly why the island is so special and amazing to see and explore.

Details and statistics

Location: 40km north of island Fårö (nearby Gotland), 127km south-east of Stockholm
Size: 8km long, 5km wide – 3 601 ha
Highest point: Höga åsen 42m
Highlights: Sand beaches, hiking, seal watching
Capital city: None
Harbour: None

Anyway, why is Gotska Sandön special? It is an uninhabited island which is very remote and even few Swedes have visited it. The island consists mostly of sand and is dominated by beaches, dunes and forests. The only civilization you can find there is a camp where you can either rent a cabin or sleep in a tent. If you like wonderful sandy beaches just for yourself and extraordinary sandy or forest hikes this is an island for you.

A ferry approaching Nynäshamn harbour — *Our ferry approaching Nynäshamn, our adventure starts soon.*

No harbour at Gotska Sandön

But first of all, you have to get there. The approach to the island can be a bit complicated. Since there are no harbours at the island you have to take a special ferry which is able to land on sand. If you are lucky and you come to the island on a windless day you will be able to disembark from the boat directly to the beach Las Palmas which is the only one suitable for landing directly on sand. It is fun to experience and also comfortable because it is nearby the camp.

If you come though on windy day like we did the boat chooses another beach which is hidden from the wind and you have to take a gummy boat to the land. This process usually takes a few hours since all the people and bags require several gummy boat trips. When this interesting procedure is done you have to hike additional 3-10km depending on the beach to the camp.

Exchange of tourists at Gotska Sandön — *Exchange of tourists*

Then, the island is basically yours. Since only a few tourists visit the island, you will easily find a five km long beach just for yourself and you can enjoy swim in the pleasantly cold water all day.

Beach at Gotska Sandön — *Happy Joanne on 8km long sand beach just for her*self

Seal forecast at Gotska Sandön

If you want to be active you can always enjoy a hike in the forest or on 42m high sand dune. If you like wildlife, the island also have something for you. You can spot seals on the island. The camp announces “seal forecast” every morning which tells you the probability of seeing them in the northeast of the island. There are a few rocks which seals enjoy sunbathing at. We were lucky during our visit and we could see dozens of them fighting for the best rock. Fun, fun, fun.

Seals at Gotska Sandön — Three seals and one swan as a bonus

You won’t find the best tv program in tv

During our last evening on the island we took wine to the largest sand beach situated in the north and the sky showed us something which you can’t see even in the most epic movie. The sunset was spiced by showers above the sea and it created an unforgettable scenery. A pity I was too busy enjoying it that I didn’t make a timelapse.

Sunset at Gotska Sandön — Cheers to a lovely trip!

Anyway, the summer is still long. If you have some spare time, go ahead and visit this island. Just don’t forget to bring enough food. There is no shop on the island and you should also get something extra in case the weather turns too bad and the gummy boat can’t reach the island. On stormy days, trips are cancelled and you have to wait additional day or two to leave the island.

Hiking at Gotska Sandön — HIking on the sand dune covered by old forest

Do you also have a hidden gem tip for this summer? If so, let us know!

PS: The island offers one more bonus. Since there is no soil, only sand, there are also no rivers, lakes or paddles. Do you know what it means? This island is mosquito free! This makes the island a real Swedish paradise

Gotska Sandön at sunset — See you soon Gotska Sandön

October 12, 2020 • 0 Comment

European Peaks – My book is published!

My dreams came true! In 2019 I completed my expedition European Peaks and I can happily say now that my book about the unforgettable journey has been published! It is now available in bookstores all over the Czech Republic. UPDATE: The first edition of the book has been sold out and you can find the updated and extended edition in the stores.

It isn’t an easy job to write a book. It took a similarly long time as the expedition itself but I am very proud of the outcome. Take a look at the cover.

What can you find in the book?

My book is kind of a hybrid. It serves both as a guide and also tells my own stories and experiences from the mountains. At the beginning of each chapter you can find practical information about the highest peak of every European country including a map and the chapters continue with my personal stories and of course my photographs.

The overall storyline tells that I start as a relative beginner climber and I learn on the way. The stories are accompanied by interviews with world famous climbers (Renata Chlumská – the first Swedish women to reach Seven Summits, Adam Ondra – professional rock climber, Radek Jaroš – climber who summited all the 8000m mountains) who will give the readers tips how to safely climb mountains.

Last and not least, you will find a lot of fun facts from every European country, not only mountains. Europe is so manifold. Did you know for instance that Sweden’s highest point changed last year because the previous highest one melted?

If you can read Czech, take a look at the book’s website for more information. For others, I have a short movie

Check out summary of the expedition in this short film

My book in other languages

My goal for 2024 is to publish my book in English and other languages. I prepared the cover of the English version as well as an example chapter. You can find them both of them below.

Here you can download the example chapter KebnekaiseDownload

Details of the book

Genre: Travel monograph
Number of pages: 304
Book dimensions: 210 × 247 mm
Release Date: May 28, 2020
Binding: Bound with laminated cover

Pictures from the book release

Baptism of Koruna Evropy book. From left actor Jan Révai, writer Ladislav Zibura, Jarda Zaoral and moderator Michal Kurtiš — Czech tradition: Baptism of the book. From left actor Jan Révai, writer Ladislav Zibura, me and moderator Michal Kurtiš

Book presentation and discussion about travelling 1 — Presentation of the book and discussion about travelling

Book presentation and discussion about travelling 2

March 30, 2020 • 0 Comment

I wrote a book!

I have taken a long break from writing on my blog. Sorry you had to wait a long time for a new article but I had, hopefully, an understandable reason. I wrote a book! In October 2019 I got an amazing opportunity to publish my mountain adventures via one of the largest book publishers in the Czech Republic – Albatros Media. During the last six months I have been working hard to fulfill my dream. I always wanted to become a writer and here is the result – Koruna Evropy (The Crown of Europe).

If you understand Czech you can look forward to 304 pages of exciting stories. There will be stories from every country of Europe and its highest mountains. It will be full of beautiful pictures and illustrations, interesting statistics and interviews with world class climbers and travelers. You can also look forward to fun facts and my humor 🙂

If you don’t speak Czech, don’t worry. My goal is also to publish the book in English. In the meantime I will work on this blog so you will be able to read my shortened stories here.

*Here is the book cover! How do you like it?*

When will the book be published?

We have a final date now. The book will be published on 28th May 2020 and it will be available in the majority of bookstores across Czech Republic. I am creating a Czech website for the book. You will get information very soon.

How will it be published?

I planned a big book release on the fair Svět knihy in Prague with a subsequent presentation and party but the circumstances changed. The safety is important these days so it will most likely just be released via a modest live video via social channels. Time will tell what will be possible.

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