Expedition Archives - Page 3 of 4

Detail of the highest point of Luxembourg - Kneiff

October 29, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Luxembourg – Kneiff

The highest point of Luxembourg has a similar story as the highest Danish mountain. It’s called Kneiff and it is a hill in northern Luxembourg, near Luxembourg’s tripoint shared with Belgium and Germany. At 560 meters, it is the highest point in the country, only 1 m higher than Buurgplaatz. There you can find an observation tower so many people regard it even now as the highest point of the country. Follow this article for all important information you need before your visit of Kneiff including practical info, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Luxembourg – Kneiff

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation: Hotel Wemperhardt
Height of the peak: 560 m 
Hiking distance: 0 m - you can park just next to the highest point
Time to ascend: 0 minutes (you can park just next to the highest point) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Diekirch Grand Cru Ambrée (Vienna lager) ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Kneiff

My story of reaching Kneiff with personal tips

Visiting Kneiff was a part of my expedition E uropean Peaks during which I visited the highest point of every European country. I spiced up visiting the highest point of Luxembourg by also visiting the highest point of Netherlands and Belgium in just one day by bike. Follow my article below to find out how it went. This article will also give you all the practical information, a map and my personal experience from Kneiff. Enjoy reading!

Tour de Benelux continues to Kneiff

After filling up energy on the highest peak of Belgium, my girlfriend Joanne, her uncle Eiko and I continued to bike towards Luxembourg. To my surprise, it went too smoothly. It looked like we were doing the longest downhill in Europe! 17 km of a mild downhill on a just recently rebuilt biking path from a previous railway is perfect for lazy bikers!

Even after this part there were no difficulties. Those came as late as on 95 km. A tough uphill showed up just before the border with Luxembourg. In addition it started to get dark so we had to hurry to our final destination. It couldn’t be a better timing than arriving to the peak Kneiff at sunset.

I just have to admit Kneiff is a bit boring place. There is just a white mark on the ground and nothing else. You won’t have even an interesting view from there. However, I enjoyed the trip a lot. It’s very exciting that you can visit three high points in just one day! Check out the route.

Three bikers at the highest point of Luxembourg - Kneiff — *This is the highest point of Luxembourg; See the tiny white dot on the road behind us symbolizing it; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; Single Exposure*

Aerial view of the highest point of Luxembourg - Kneiff — *View at the highest point of Luxembourg from the sky; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Panorama consisting of 36 pictures*

Tasty celebration in our camp

We were happy to reach the peak before it got dark but we found out another problem. Our camping was closing in 20 minutes! Lucky for me and Joanne that Eiko (Joanne’s uncle) is a biking racer. He was nice to go in advance to the camp to secure a cabin for us.

An hour later when Joanne and I arrived we saw that Eiko fixed our cabin just before closing time so we could successfully open the bottle of the most expensive beer in my life from the Dutch brewery La Trappe. This beer was aged in a red wine barrel and the taste was simply amazing. We couldn’t imagine a better drink as a celebration of our successful Tour de Benelux Peaks.

Exploring Luxembourg city

The next day Joanne and I traveled on to Luxembourg city. It is regarded as one of the hidden gems of Europe so I was curious and the city didn’t disappoint. Its fortress and old city were just amazing. I had a very nice time with my girlfriend there. I hope she enjoyed it too. If you want to connect city discovery with wine tasting, I recommend Guided City Walking Tour with Wine Tastings.

Since it was our last evening before 50 days without each other I planned to have a romantic evening with her with some nice dinner and local wine. However, the sunset was too romantic that I had to take out my camera and make some pictures. I am very happy with the result but I am not sure if she was too. The problem was that when I finished taking pictures all restaurants were already closed and I’m not sure if a dinner at a kebab kiosk fulfilled her expectations.

*Luxembourg city after sunset; camera Nikon D750; lens Nikon 20mm, f/1.8; Panorama made by 8 pictures – 2 pictures in 2 rows; 3x Exposure bracketing*

Good that I found probably the best burger restaurant in the whole Benelux the following day for lunch, so I could compensate for the dinner last night. Anyway, girls be careful if you decide to date a photographer. For me Luxembourg was so far the most interesting city. Highly recommended to visit.

My tips for Kneiff

Go biking in the Benelux. It is tough but definitely worth it. Our journey from Netherlands through Belgium was unforgettable.
Once you are in Luxembourg, visit also the capital. The city is beautiful. I also had there one of the best burgers in my life.
Nearest accommodation: Hotel Wemperhardt

A hiker at the highest point of Belgium Signal de Botrange

October 22, 2023 • 0 Comment

Your guide to the highest peak of Belgium – Signal de Botrange

The Belgian peak Signal de Botrange is the highest peak not only of Belgium but also of the whole Benelux. You might think that getting up to the top by bike is an easy task since the Benelux mountains are low but that isn’t true. Signal de Botrange is 694 meters high and it even gets as much snow in winter that there is a cross country skiing track. This article will give you all important information before your visit as well as my personal experience of visiting it by bike on my one day trip to the highest point of every Benelux country.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Belgium – Signal de Botrange

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest recommended accommodation: Cosy accommodation in the national park Le Mont Rigi or beautiful hotel nearby Belgium Peak Beer brewery - Domaine Des Hautes Fagnes
Height of the peak: 694 m
Hiking distance: 0 m - you can park just next to the highest point
(If you want to walk to the highest point there is a parking lot just next to the peak)
Time to ascend: 0 minutes (you can park just next to the highest point) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: La Brune Belgium Peak beer (double) ****** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Signal de Botrange

My story of reaching Signal de Botrange with personal tips

Visiting Signal de Botrange was a part of my expedition European Peaks during which I visited the highest peak of every European country. To make it more interesting, I spiced up visiting the highest point of Belgium by visiting also the highest point of Netherlands and Luxembourg in just one day by bike. Check out the whole route.

The journey from Vaalserberg (the highest point of the Netherlands) towards Signal de Bortrange started positively by a long downhill through the village Gemmenich which was probably the most colorful village I’ve seen. Belgian flags were everywhere. Interesting how patriotic Belgians are.

Three bikers in front of a bridge in Belgium — *Our bike crew in front of an old bridge in a village called Born; camera Nikon D750; lens Nikon 85mm, f/1.8; Single Exposure*

Surprisingly hilly Benelux

The rest of the journey was more tough. I enjoyed the alternating up- and downhills for 20 km. Later I used dozens of swear words about how the Benelux is crazy hilly. My fault: I was making fun of my girlfriend Joanne that the Benelux is flat. I got it back in the face, or better said in the legs. Even cows were laughing at me.

Detail of Belgian cows — *Belgian cows; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; 3 pictures used for Exposure bracketing*

Belgium Peak beer at Signal de Botrange

The last climb to the highest peak of Belgium made me so tired that I didn’t stop at the peak but continued instead to a nearby brewery with the distinct name Belgium Peak beer to pump some energy. After opening the door I started to understand all the flags on the journey. The Belgians were playing a soccer game at the World Championships that day.

There was an amazing atmosphere in the pub, especially because the Belgians were leading the game 3:0. Amazing. They got me. That’s my team to support this year. This atmosphere was also transferred to a local bartender who gave me a taste of all local beers for free. Thank you for the energy. Then I didn’t have any problem to come back to the highest peak.

The peak itself is great. There are two towers. The first one was built in 1923 to reach the mystic 700 m. These steps are exactly 6 meters high. Thanks to this stone stairs all the Belgians can touch the sky since 1923. Since 2013 there is also a 50 m high tower, especially used for antennas.

Aerial view of Belgian highest mountain Signal de Botrange — *Two towers on the Belgian highest mountain (the small one in bottom-right corner); DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Panorama consisting of 9 pictures in threee rows + 3times bracketing*

I was surprised that there are also cross-country skiing tracks. I would like to try skiing there one day.

My tips for Signal de Botrange

Go biking there. It is tough but definitely worth it. If it is winter try cross-country skiing
Don’t miss the brewery Belgium Peak beer. Beer is culture in Belgium and this was one of the best breweries I’ve visited.
Nearest recommended accommodation: Cosy accommodation in the national park Le Mont Rigi or beautiful hotel nearby Belgium Peak Beer brewery – Domaine Des Hautes Fagnes

Aerial view of the highest point of Netherlands Vaalserberg

October 15, 2023 • 0 Comment

All about Vaalserberg: A relaxing escape to the highest spot in the Netherlands

The famous lowland of the Netherlands is proud of its windmills, dikes, tulips and coffee shops but did you know that there are actually some hills too? In this article I will let you know how to reach the highest peak of Netherlands – Vaalserberg and I will also share with you my personal experience. It was a starting point of an exciting trip to the highest peak of all Benelux countries (Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg) in one day. Follow my journey and all the necessary information before your trip to Vaalserberg.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Netherlands – Vaalserberg

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest recommended accommodation: Privé sauna & terras - Aachen Vaals Drielandenpunt
Height of the peak: 321 m
Hiking distance: 0 m - you can park just next to the highest point
Time to ascend: 0 minutes (you can park just next to the highest point) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: 3 Schténg (stout) *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Vaalserberg

My story of reaching Vaalserberg with personal tips

Visiting Vaalserberg was a part of my expedition Eu ropean Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. To make it more exciting, I spiced up visiting the highest point of Netherlands by visiting also the highest point of Luxembourg and Belgium in just one day by bike. Check out the whole route.

My trip started by a short roundtrip around Netherlands (I will prepare an article about the highlights of this wonderful country soon) and ended up in the holy brewery La Trappe where beer is brewed and served by monks. What a perfect day to prepare us for a tough biking trip!

Kinderdijk windmills during sunrise — *Kinderdijk windmills; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; Single Exposure*

Tour de Benelux is starting

Next morning my girlfriend Joanne, her uncle Eiko (a real biking expert, sorry that you had to wait for us all the time) and I started our journey from the small village Vijlen in the southeast of the Netherlands. The climb to the highest point of the Netherlands was supposed to be a good warm up for our following biking expedition to the Belgian and Luxembourg highest points.

Bike ready for adventure in Netherlands — *Will my bike manage 110km even with my drone and camera equipment?; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; Single Exposure*

Sad story of Vaalserberg

The highest point of the Netherlands is a bit sad. The peak of the Vaalserberg is situated in Belgium in fact and the highest point of the Netherlands is a bit below. Anyway, with 321 m it beats all the Baltic countries, Denmark and Malta. Once you visit this place you will see that Dutch people are proud of their highest point. There were many tourists enjoying a maze and two observation towers. One is situated very near the highest point. However, it is actually in Belgium and another one is in the Netherlands situated 500 m away. Since it has much better opening times, we visited this one.

*The Dutch tower close to the highest point of the Netherlands; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Panorama consisting of 6 pictures in two rows + 3times bracketing*

We had a nice view over the village Vijlen where we started our biking trip.

View over the village Vijlen from the highest point of Netherlands — *View over the village Vijlen from the Dutch tower; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; 3 pictures used for Exposure bracketing*

My tips for Vaalserberg

Bring a bike and explore not only the Dutch mountain but all three highest peaks of the Benelux by bike.
If it would be complicated for you to bring own bike, rent your bike in Zinkviooltje. I was very happy with their service.

October 8, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest peak of Lithuania – Aukstojas Hill

In this article I will let you know how to reach the highest peak of Lithuania and I will also share with you my personal experience. Aukštojas Hill surprised me very nicely. There is a great view from a local tower and I witnessed there even an impressive sunset. Follow my story and all tips you need to know about the highest point of the country in this article.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Lithuania – Aukštojas Hill

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, wild camping is allowed but not on private land
Nearest recommended accommodation: Cosy house with private bath Bajorų sodyba
Recommended accommodation in Vilnius: Amberton Cathedral Square Hotel Vilnius with view over the main square
Height of the peak: 280 m
Hiking distance: 445 m 
Time to ascend: 10 minutes (one way) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Volfas Engelman Blond *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Aukštojas Hill

My story of reaching Aukštojas Hill with personal tips

I got to Vilnius from Riga, Latvia very late at 2:30 am but since I booked the worst hostel ever I couldn’t sleep. Other guests were just coming back from parties and they didn’t have any better idea than talking to each other until late morning. That made me to leave my room at Amberton Cathedral Square Hotel and see the sunrise over Vilnius. Since there were clouds and I couldn’t see any sun I tried at least my new neutral density filter. It even worked to make a selfie.

A tourist at Vilnius cathedral during sunrise — *Vilnius cathedral; Nikon D750; Nikon 20mm f/1.8; + BW Neutral Density filter 10 stops; 30s exposure*

How to get to Aukštojas hill without a car

Later I got back to my hostel and finally could sleep because the other guests either left or finally decided to sleep too. Around lunch time I woke up and started to look for a scooter to conquer my last Baltic peak. Soon I found out a big problem though. There are no scooters available at all in Vilnius and I couldn’t even find a car to rent. After a long time and 20 phone calls I finally managed but there was no car rental at the address where I was supposed to pick up the car.

It was already late so I was looking for another alternative how to get to Aukštojas hill and I realized Uber would be the easiest idea and it worked! My app found an amazing driver called Dmitrij who took me as far as to 60 km round-trip for only 20 EUR. Thank you so much for the awesome trip, your patience for my half an hour photography work at the tower as well as a nice talk!

The peak was definitely worth visiting. Besides a nice view and nature around I could even witness a beautiful sunset. A pity I didn’t have more time because there was a large fortress and church nearby.

Aerial view of Aukštojas hill — *Aukštojas hill; DJI Phantom 4; Panorama consisting of 6 pictures in two rows + 3 times bracketing*

My tips for Aukštojas Hill

Don’t book a cheap hostel if you plan to sleep at night.
Plan your journey to the highest hill well in advance if you want to enjoy more time time. Unfortunately, in this way you would miss the awesome drive with Dmitrij though. Choose wisely.
Nearest recommended accommodation: Cosy house with private bath Bajorų sodyba

Tower on the highest point of Latvia - Gaizinkalns

October 1, 2023 • 0 Comment

Practical tips and my insights from the highest point of Latvia – Gaizinkalns

I visited the highest point of Latvia during my expedition European Peaks during which I visited the highest country of every European country. To be honest, the highest point of Latvia Gaiziņkalns is a bit disappointing. There is just a tiny tower on the top but no view from it. On the other hand, there are surprising attractions nearby. In winter you can use a small lift for skiing and during summer you can have fun on a water slide. In this article I will let you know how to reach the highest peak of Latvia and I will also share with you my personal experience. Latvia is beautiful!

Important information for visiting the highest point of Latvia -Gaiziņkalns

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, wild camping is allowed but not on private land
Nearest recommended accommodation: Cosy apartment Amberhouse by a lake at Vestiena
Recommended accommodation in Riga: Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel with view over the river and the old city
Height of the peak: 311 m 
Hiking distance: 885 m 
Time to ascend: 20-30 minutes (one way) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Lačplesis Amber ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Gaiziņkalns

My story of reaching Gaiziņkalns with personal tips

After my epic night at the biathlon stadium in Estonia I woke up pretty early also in Riga because my Radisson Blu Daugava Hotel offered fantastic sunrise view. Then, I decided to set out directly for a new journey. I enjoyed a nice waking up nature around me on the way. The Baltics in general have some really nice places to offer. My favorite ones were the Estonian national park Haanja looduspark, the small town Alukšne in Latvia lying by a large lake and of course Riga.

Riga during sunrise — *Riga at sunrise; camera Nikon D750; lens Nikon 85mm, f/1.8; Panorama made by 12 pictures – 4 pictures in row; 3x Exposure bracketing*

Aerial view of Riga during sunset — *Riga during sunset; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; 3 pictures used for Exposure bracketing*

Are you alive?

At around 10:00 I realized though that I am falling asleep while driving my scooter so I decided to take a break. I found a nice spot in a field and decided to take a nap. After approximately one hour I was woken up by a local farmer with the words: “Are you alive?” Probably, the farmer has never seen a person taking a nap in his field before.

Scooter parked in the countryside of Latvia — *My scooter parked and I am ready for a nap; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; Single Exposure*

Anyway, the nap gave me new energy to get to the highest peak of Latvia. Except the terrible gravel road everything worked well. The peak Gaiziņkalns was not as interesting as the Estonian one though. The tower was very low so you don’t have any view. Only my drone had one. Maybe, it is better to visit the mountain in winter because there is a skiing lift.

Pink soup Saltibarsciai

My biggest experience from this peak was ordering a soup in a nearby restaurant. First, it was cold. Second, it was pink! Is it really a soup? Anyway, it surprisingly tasted well 🙂

On the way back I had to hurry to get my bus connection to Vilnius. That didn’t work out well. In one sharp gravel turn I lost control over my driving and ended up in a ditch. I can be glad that nothing happened. That made me slow down and rebook my bus.

My tips for Gaiziņkalns

Choose your means of transport to Gaiziņkalns wisely.
Take care what you are ordering in local restaurants.
Check the opening times of local attractions in advance.

Aerial view of Estonian highest mountain Suur Munamägi

September 24, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest peak of Estonia – Suur Munamägi

In this article I will let you know how to reach the highest peak of Estonia Suur Munamägi and I will also share my personal experience with you. The mountain is located in a beautiful location in the Estonian national park Haanja looduspark. From its peak and tower you can have a nice view of the surrounding countryside and the local restaurant even offers a beer with the peak’s name. Follow my journey to this surprisingly nice mountain.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Estonia – Suur Munamägi

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, wild camping is allowed but not on private land
Nearest recommended accommodation: Small camping houses in Haanja
Height of the peak: 317 m
Hiking distance: 305 m
Time to ascend: 10 minutes (one way) 
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum)
Beer on the peak: Suur Munamäe vaatetorn ***** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Suur Munamägi

My story of reaching Suur Munamägi with personal tips

I arrived from Stockholm to Riga on a famous cruise ship with many partying people on board. My goal was to find a scooter and use it for the visit of both the Estonian and Latvian highest peak. That appeared to be a problem. I did neither find any online renter, nor did the local tourist information office have any tips. Luckily, my hostel reception gave me a tip to a local ice-hockey player whose passion was Vespa scooters. He rented me one.

Scooter rider in Riga during sunrise — *Time to leave Riga; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; 3 pictures used for Exposure bracketing*

Don’t bring a heavy backpack on your scooter

His advice to drive with a backpack on my back all the way was not the smartest though. Carrying 20 kg on a 500 km long journey on Baltic roads was a bit too much for my back, especially because half of the Latvian roads that I used were gravel ones.

Passing border on scooter between Estonia and Latvia — *Passing the border to Estonia, GoPro selfie*

The first peak beer

I estimated to travel to Suur Munamägi in around 4 hours (214 km) but it became a whole day trip in the end. I was lucky to come just before the closing time of the tower. Lucky me because I really liked the view. Extra points coming to the tower’s cashier who brought me a trophy from the already closed restaurant – a cold beer named after the peak.

*Suure Munamae beer on top of the tower of the highest Estonian mountain; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; 3 pictures used for Exposure bracketing*

Crazy mosquitoes at Suur Munamägi

What a nice evening even though I missed the sunset! And it could be even better if I had booked some accommodation in advance. Since my enjoyment of the local beer and photography took some time I left the tower at 22:00 and that was quite late to find a place to sleep. My first idea was to sleep by the tower but that idea didn’t end up to be smart because of too many neighbors in mosquito bodies.

I was looking for a more suitable spot then and I found a really nice place on a stand of a biathlon stadium. Thanks to a lot of concrete there was a smaller amount of these annoying insects and my sleeping place also offered a beautiful sunrise.

*Sunrise nearby the highest Estonian mountain; ; camera Nikon D750; lens Nikon 20mm, f/1.8; 3 pictures used for Exposure bracketing*

The next morning I came back for the sunrise to finally enjoy the mountain during daylight. Capturing the first sun rays with my drone was amazing.

*Suur Munamägi captured during sunrise from my drone*

My tips for Suur Munamägi

Book your accommodation in advance.
Bring a lot of mosquito repellent.

September 17, 2023 • 0 Comment

Ultimate guide with practical info from the highest peak of UK – Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis, similarly to Carrauntoohil in Ireland, is a mountain with exceptionally bad weather. Ben Nevis is covered by clouds and fog for 70% of the year and even if you are lucky with a clear sky the weather can change any minute. That’s why it’s important to be properly prepared for its summit. This article will give you all necessary tips you need before your visit of Ben Nevis including descriptions of the routes, a map and my personal experience.

The best routes to Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis mountain path: This is the most common route to Ben Nevis. It starts at the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre, near the town of Fort William. The path is well-defined and marked, making it suitable for less-experienced hikers. The initial part of the trail passes through the glen, and as you ascend, you’ll encounter rocky terrain. Highlights along the route include the halfway lochan (lake) and the famous zigzags known as the “Devil’s Staircase.” The final stretch involves a rocky ascent to the summit. We’ll take a deeper look at this route later in this article.
CMD Arete (Carn Mor Dearg Arete) route: This is a longer and more challenging route as it involves ascending two mountains on the way – Carn Dearg Meadhonach (1180 m) and Carn Mor Dearg mountain (1220 m) and passing a long spectacular arete (ridge) leading to Ben Nevis. This route is better for more experienced hikers and for everyone who prefers hikes without other tourists as this hike is less popular than the Ben Nevis mountain path. Another advantage of this hike is that the hike starts and ends at the Ben Nevis Distillery. Take a look at the map of the hike.

Important information for climbing Ben Nevis from Glen Nevis

Short description of the ascent: Easy hike with no difficulties, be aware of changeable weather
Essential equipment: General hiking gear, don't forget waterproof clothing
Best time to visit: April- November 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, you can wild camp near Ben Nevis, but you must follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
Nearest accommodation: Cosy and beautiful Achintee Farm Guest House or cheap and popular Glen Nevis Youth Hostel
Height of the peak: 1345 m 
Hiking distance: 7,9 km 
Time to ascend : 2-4 hours up, 2-3 hours down
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Crabbies ***** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the best route to Ben Nevis

My story of climbing Ben Nevis with personal tips

I climbed Ben Nevis as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country but I visited also Ben Nevis 7 years ago. Therefore, I will use both of these experiences to give you all necessary tips you need before your own visit.

Discovery of the beauty of the mountains

Scotland is simply a beautiful country which I always gladly visit again. It is actually the country where I found my passion for hiking 7 years ago. My friends and I climbed Ben Nevis that time and I realized that it is exactly what I want to do in the future – climbing mountains. I finally lost my fear for mountains there which I got when hiking with my parents in the Slovakian Tatras when I was a kid.

That time, we did a demanding hike on an exposed mountain ridge called Tri Kopy – Baníkov and I got a panic attack due to a fear of heights and storms there. That experience kept me away from mountains for more than ten years. I am very glad I went to the mountains again in Scotland with my friend Rikki and I am thankful that Ben Nevis rekindled my love for the mountains!

Two hikers with beers on Ben Nevis — *Ben Nevis reached for the first time in 2012*

Scotland has a lot to offer. Most people visit only the capital city Edinburgh which is a beautiful old city. However, I think the most exciting part of the country is further in the north where the mountains are getting higher. During my first visit, we made a long round trip across the north of Scotland and it was simply amazing. Unfortunately, it would take hours to describe everything you can see on your trip to Scotland in just one article, so I am picking one picture from our trip to best describe the Scottish atmosphere. Look at the Harry Potter train crossing the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct during the most typical Scottish weather. Isn’t it beautiful?

Glenfinnan Viaduct with Harry Potter train — *Glenfinnan Viaduct*

Scottish whiskey on the way to Ben Nevis

I started my trip this time with four friends from my home country the Czech Republic and since we had a one week window for climbing Ben Nevis, we also visited one of the nicest islands I have ever been to – Isle of Skye. It is simply an amazing place where tough weather created a picturesque landscape with wild beaches, high mountains and sharp cliffs. In addition to the wonderful nature you can come across some charming villages and several whiskey distilleries. A perfect warm up before the climb to Ben Nevis.

Many Dalwhinnie whisky bottles — *One of the Scottish distilleries on our way*

Driving left in UK can be confusing for visitors

After exploring the island, we headed straight to Fort William, a seaside village and especially the starting point for Ben Nevis. Along the way we encountered the major disadvantage of traveling in Scotland. At about 90 km/h speed, a car with tourists showed up in the opposite direction just in front of us. Fortunately, good visibility and good brakes prevented a disaster. You can see that one easily forgets that you are in the UK and that you drive on the left. We were lucky this time.

The beginning of the hike to Ben Nevis — *The beginning of the hike, just after leaving Glen Nevis*

Surprisingly great views from Ben Nevis

The weather forecast, like in Ireland, looked positive for the evening, so we decided to go to the top for sunset. And we were lucky this time, unlike in Ireland. It was a pleasant 20 °C and especially, the peak was cloudless. The trail rises continuously from sea level to the top and the climb is never difficult. Along the way you will meet no obstacles, only a lot of curious sheep. Since the weather was great we could also enjoy the views over the bay of Loch Eil.

Three Peaks Challenge

The motivation to reach the summit before the sunset was so strong that we managed to summit the peak just in 2 hours and 25 minutes. Indeed, the mountain remained free from clouds so we enjoyed a beautiful sunset. We caught one of the lucky days when Ben Nevis offers good visibility! Such a pity I can’t share any picture from this wonderful evening.

A shelter on the top of Ben Nevis — *This is a more likely visibility when you reach Ben Nevis*

After enjoying the view over Scottish mountains for a while, it became cold so we headed back to our car. We had to get down as soon as possible, so we would not end up descending in darkness. Luckily, it went very quickly and smoothly so we were soon back at the parking lot.

We changed out of our sweaty clothes, took a quick dinner and started to drive towards Wales. Our goal was actually not to climb only the highest point of United Kingdom but also the highest point of England and Wales during one day. This Three peaks challenge is very popular in the UK and many people undertake it every year. We were tempted as well.

The worst experience of my life

Unfortunately, the car drive was not very long. Everything happened very quickly. Our car suddenly went off the road and it hit a stone in a field. Luckily, nobody in the car was hurt but everyone was in shock. Our reaction was quick. We all jumped out of the car and ran away. When we all left the car we spotted a fire starting. Being scared that the car could explode we ran even further. Then, we just stood a few hundred meters away, watching all our belongings disappear in fire and smoke.

It was cold and dark. We wore only a few pieces of clothes and most of us didn’t even have shoes on. Everything was left in the car. Luckily, one friend found a phone in his pocket. That old Nokia with the famous game Snake we made fun of before. It saved us by allowing us to call for help. Since we were in the middle of nowhere it took the police over an hour to arrive. What a luck nobody was hurt. This long waiting time could be crucial.

Picture of a car after the accident — *Picture of our car after the accident. Terrible experience*

Yes, it was terrible. It was the worst experience in my life. I still sometimes imagine someone of my friends getting hurt in the car accident. How thankful I am everybody survived the accident without any injury.

Driving is still very dangerous nowadays

The problem is that car accidents do happen every day. Over 25,000 people die on roads in the EU every year. Please, be careful when driving, especially at night on roads you don’t know. From my experience of my expedition in the mountains, I can assure you that driving is still much more dangerous than any mountain I climbed.

The expedition European Peaks was finished for me at that point. My and my friends’ thoughts were just to get safely back home. We were cold, without clothes, without money, without passports, without phones. Only thanks to friends, family and modern technologies we managed to get home to the Czech Republic in just 48 hours. Everything is possible in today’s world when you have amazing people around.

Three desperate tourists lying on floor at Edinburgh airport — *Imagine losing everything in a minute. This is all we had before our flight back home*

To end on a positive note, I would like to point out that Ben Nevis is an exceptional mountain really worth visiting. Accidents can happen every time and anywhere and they should not put you off from our passion. We should just always do our best to avoid them. This was the biggest lesson in my life and I can assure you that I will always do my best to not put my life in danger again.

DISCLAIMER: Due to the accident I don’t have any up-to-date pictures from my climb to Ben Nevis. Most of the pictures used in this article were taken during my visit of Scotland in 2012.

My tips for the mountain Ben Nevis:

Be careful when driving in Scotland. Keep left.
If you plan to climb Ben Nevis, try to plan a longer visit of Scotland so there is a bigger chance to summit the mountain during good weather.
If you have extra time, don’t hesitate to visit the Isle of Skye, one of the most beautiful islands in Europe.
In case of bad weather, remember: it doesn’t rain in bars and distilleries in Scotland.
Consider doing the famous Three Peaks Challenge. However, I recommend to do it with a company or take the train instead of a car.
Nearest accommodation: Cosy and beautiful Achintee Farm Guest House or cheap and popular Glen Nevis Youth Hostel

View at highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina - Maglic

September 3, 2023 • 0 Comment

Practical guide to the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina – Maglic

Maglić, sometimes also called Bosanski Maglić, is the most beautiful mountain of the highest points of all Balkan states. It looks like a limestone pyramid with steep 700 meter high rock walls. The most popular climb to its peak via a via ferrata isn’t easy but you will be rewarded. From its top you can enjoy spectacular views over the oldest preserved forests in Europe. This article is your ultimate guide how to get to the top of Maglić including my personal experience.

The best routes to Maglić

There are two popular short routes to the peak from Bosnia and Herzegovina and also one longer route from Montenegro. Let’s take a look at them:

Via ferrata from Prijevor: The most popular and also the most scenic route starts at Prijevor. There is a parking lot and observation tower at the start of the hike. From there, it isn’t far to the peak. In fact, it’s only 2 km away but bear in mind that the hike is very steep and there is via ferrata on the way for safety. Here is a map of this route. We’ll take a look at this route more in detail in the article below. Bear in mind that this route offers fantastic views but if you’re scared of heights, the second route is recommended.
Alternative route from Bosnia: This route is longer but isn’t steep. If you’re scared of heights, this is a better option for you. Take a look at this map where the route starts. There isn’t a particular parking lot at the start of the hike but you can leave your car next to the road. This route goes up mainly in the forest so you will have less views but it’s safer.
Route from Montenegro: This route is the longest. It starts at a hut called the same as the peak – Maglić – and it follows the marked route “Maglić do Pivske planine preko kanjona Pive”. As this route is longer and further from civilization, it will give you more chance to explore the remote mountains of Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Take a look at the map.

Important information for climbing Maglić from Prijevor

Short description of the ascent: Short hike with scrambling and it also includes a steep via ferrata
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: May - October
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes but be careful of bears!
Nearest recommended accommodation: Camp Sutjeska with cosy huts
Height of the peak: 2,386 m
Hiking distance: 2 km 
Time to ascend to Maglić: 1,5-3 hours up, 1-2 hours down 
Elevation climbed: 687 m
Water availability on the mountain: At the start of the hike
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nektar Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the climb to Maglić from Prijevor

My story of climbing Maglić in winter conditions with personal tips

After our bear story in Montenegro, my girlfriend and I continued to the last Balkan country on my expedition. Arriving to Bosnia and Hercegovina was an interesting driving experience. The quality of roads went sharply down after crossing the borders of Montenegro. On the other hand, the roads could boast of lots of cattle. Until we reached the village of Tjentiště lying at the foot of Maglić, we met the whole farm including cows, sheep, pigs and goats.

The journey wasn’t only interesting from an animal perspective. We also had amazing views over landscapes. I personally most liked the views of the Durmitor Mountains which were covered in fresh snow and the drive through the Sutjeska National Park through a very interesting deep canyon.

When we arrived to Tjentiště, we found a surprisingly nice and modern campsite Sutjeska with cozy cottages, so we could sleep well before climbing the highest mountain Maglić.

The way to the top looked simple as described on the Internet. We will go from Tjentiště by car to the starting point of the hike and the actual climb will be only two kilometers long with less than 700 meters of elevation. The articles online were mentioning that the ascent is steep and accompanied by a via ferrata but nothing extra demanding so we were looking forward to it.

Still a lot of snow

We woke up early to start our hike during sunrise. The weather was perfect and the Windy app was saying there is no snow on Maglić. Nothing should stop us from making a successful ascent. We took the gravel road to the beginning of the climb. It was surprisingly well passable but there was snow one kilometer before our destination. The snow didn’t let us through. It looks like the apps were wrong: we will have to encounter winter obstacles even on Maglić. We had to stop our car, park it and extend our climb by a kilometer. We packed our backpacks including crampons and left towards Maglić.

One of the most beautiful Balkan mountains

View at Maglić from below — *Time to start our climb*

We came to the starting point after fifteen minutes and there we had an amazing view over Maglić. We couldn’t wait to climb it. After we took a few pictures we headed up. The climb was very steep right from the start. The opening short passage in the forest soon changed into an ascent on rocks and small stones. After forty minutes we reached a large snow field. The Windy app was wrong this time.

Since the sun didn’t reach us from behind Maglić the snow was frozen. We had to put on crampons. The slope was becoming steeper and steeper. Slipping down would mean going down several hundred meters on our butts. I was sad we didn’t have ice axes with us.

After climbing about 400 meters of altitude on the snow field, the snow suddenly ended and it seemed that the rest of the way was just climbing via the via ferrata. We left there our crampons to have lighter backpacks and headed up. It was obvious that we were the first ones to try to climb here this year. There were a lot of loose stones on the trail and the via ferrata was often still frozen to the rock, so we couldn’t use it. Some of the rocks which looked like solid handles were breaking in our hands after winter erosion. The climb wasn’t the safest thing I have done. We had to be extra careful with every elevation meter. Looking down I thought we wouldn’t survive a fall.

Via ferrata in winter without proper equipment is a hazard

Steep climb to the top of Maglić — *It was steeper and steeper*

I didn’t quite understand how all the articles about Maglić were claiming it is an “easy scrambling”. The climb looked pretty dangerous to me in these conditions. Fortunately, Joanne was brave and accustomed to the heights from climbing centers, so she didn’t protest and continued climbing up with me.

We managed to get just 40 elevation meters from the summit. It was so close but suddenly a new snow passage appeared. We didn’t see it from below. Shit. We left our crampons behind. Neither me nor Joanne liked the last steep meters in snow. We discussed what to do. Joanne was too scared to continue. I was going to try to reach the peak without crampons, by digging steps in the snow. If that doesn’t work we would just turn around. If it did work, I would be back soon. The peak is near. Joanne would wait for me.

I was lucky. The snow had an ideal consistency. It was still hard so I could make steps by kicking in it. I could continue up well while holding the surrounding rocks to secure myself. I managed to climb 35 altitude meters and I already saw the peak. It was so close but I saw that I cannot continue. There was no snow in front of me but ice. I couldn’t hold on to anything. Climbing the last five meters would be suicide without crampons and an ice axe. I had to give up.

Feeling stupid on the top

Snow on the mountain Maglić anda hiker on the final ridge — *The last part was a bit crazy but luckily manageable*

I was sadly coming back down to Joanne when I noticed one more potential way to get to the top. There was a narrow path between two rocks. It looked steep but it should be possible without crampons. I tried this way and it worked. A few steps up I got over the rocks, overcame the final overhang and stood on the summit. I did it!

Even though I managed it didn’t feel correct. I was feeling ashamed. Joanne was waiting for me. I thought I can climb up quickly but the ascent to the summit and return looked like it would eventually take an hour and a half.

Beautiful view from Maglić to Bosnia and Herzegovina — *View from the top was amazing but I couldn’t enjoy it for a long time*

I just took the essential pictures on the top and wanted to descend back to Joanne when I saw four other tourists suddenly heading toward the summit from the other side of the ridge. It was an Austrian family with two kids who went to the summit in shorts and without crampons. “Where did you come from?” I couldn’t believe my eyes. “We reached the peak from Bosnia. The journey was a few kilometers longer than yours but it wasn’t steep and with almost no snow. It took us three hours to get here.”

A group of hikers reaching Maglić from Montenegro — *Austrian family reaching Maglić from Montenegro*

I was feeling hopeless. Why the hell couldn’t I find any article about this alternative route on the Internet? And why did nobody in our camp recommend this route for us? We spoke about getting to Maglić the whole evening last night. We had unnecessarily followed a risky path while we could have had a pleasant day hike.

I was scared to descend back to Joanne but I didn’t have any other option. Fortunately, my worst case scenario that going down would be worse than going up didn’t come true. I descended calmly and slowly without problems. Then we descended back to the car together.

The descent was very long. It took us 3 hours and 30 minutes to reach the car. We went down the same way. In winter, I would never choose this route again without proper climbing equipment including crampons, harness, rope and ice ax.

Selfie with mountain Maglić — *Safely under Maglić after tough summit and descent. This was a bit crazy*

My tips for climbing the mountain Maglić:

I recommend a 4×4 car to get to the starting point. The road can be difficult to pass, especially after rain.
If you want to skip the steep via ferrata, choose an alternative route to Maglić across Montenegro. It is much safer.
Do not walk off the marked trails. There can be still mines from the Balkan wars in the ground.
Bring jingle bells and pepper spray against bears. We saw one bear from our car.
Nearest recommended accommodation: Camp Sutjeska with cosy huts

August 27, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to prepare for hike to the highest peak of Montenegro – Zla Kolata

Montenegro’s highest mountain lies on the border, like the highest points of other Balkan countries. Zla Kolata is also the 16th highest peak in Albania. The peak lies in the national park Prokletije which is known for sharp limestone rocks and the mountain of Zla Kolata, also known as Maja Kolata or Kolac, isn’t an exception. This mountain has a shape of a massive rock tooth. Is it difficult to climb? This article will give you all necessary information you need for a successful summit including personal tips.

The best routes to Zla Kolata

There are two popular routes to Zla Kolata, the highest peak of Montenegro:

Albanian route: This shorter and easier route leads to the top from Albanian side (in total 6.5 km and 1,513 m of elevation, take a look at a map of the route). The starting point is village Valbonë where you can find accommodation and also shops where you can buy food for your trip. From Valbonë hike towards the Valbona Pass (Qafa e Valbonës). There the path meets with the route from Montenegro and continues up to the peak of Zla Kolata. The last 500 m are very steep but don’t require any special climbing gear.
Route from Montenegro: This route starts in the village of Vusanje where you can find accommodation and places to buy food for your trip to Zla Kolata similarly like in Valbonë on the Albanian side. The route is a bit longer (9.2 km) and you have to pass similar elevation (1,420 m) compared to the Albanian route. The first half of the hike goes smoothly up in a forest and then the adventure starts at the crossroad. From this point at approximately 1,700 m, the route goes steeply up to the Valbona Pass where it meets the Albanian route. From there, you can finally scramble the last 500 m of elevation to the peak.

Map of the climb to Zla Kolata from Montenegro

Important information for climbing Zla Kolata from Vusanje

Short description of the ascent: Hike with little scrambling at the final part of the hike
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: June - October
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes but be careful of bears!
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Village Vusanje
Height of the peak: 2,535 m
Hiking distance: 9.2 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Zla Kolata: 4,5-6,5 hours up, 3-5 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,450 m
Water availability on the mountain: In the village of Vusanje
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Nikšićko Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

My story of climbing Zla Kolata in winter conditions with personal tips

I climbed Zla Kolata as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. After climbing Rudoka e Madhe in Kosovo, my girlfriend and I didn’t have much time to chill. The weather forecast was favorable only for one more day so we drove directly to Montenegro. We slept in a motel on the way and arrived to the starting point of the hike, the village Vusanje, in the morning.

We were looking for accommodation and we found the cozy guesthouse Kollata. The landlady was just milking a cow. “Excuse me, do you please have a free bed?” We saw in her face that she was happy that some guests arrived. She told us that she had her last visitors one week ago, who were also trying to climb Zla Kolata. They were Czechs but they didn’t manage to climb it due to bad weather. She mentioned by the way that these guests saw bear’s footprints along the way.

Long day ahead

From what we had read, the journey to the summit and back should take about 10 hours, so we asked the landlady to prepare dinner for us at eight o’clock when we expected to be back.

Vusanje village in beautiful valley of Montenegro mountains — *The starting point of the hike – village Vusanje*

The weather couldn’t be better this day. The sun was shining and there was no wind. It was so warm that we could have started our hike in shorts. The first five kilometers of the trail to Zla Kolata was along a forest road where it is important to pay attention to GPS. We missed a turn twice and had to walk couple of hundred meters extra because the marking wasn’t ideal. It’s is certainly good to have a GPS with you if you are anywhere in the Balkans.

After the opening pleasant passage of the forest, the path turned right into the mountains. The walk suddenly was without trees and more demanding. The snow showed up and we were back in winter.

The snow was deep. Fortunately, other enthusiasts had tried to climb Zla Kolata so we could follow their footprints. Unlike in Macedonia, this time I regularly checked GPS if we are going correctly.

Still full winter at Zla Kolata

This time the hike was tough again due to deep snow. Going to the Balkan mountains without snowshoes wasn’t the best idea. Who would expect that? After an hour and a half, we saw Zla Kolata for the first time. I immediately understood the name (Zla means Evil). The mountain is so steep that it looks scary.

Soon we reached the ridge that marks the border between Montenegro and Albania. Here the traces from previous group were ending. The sight of Zla Kolata seemed to have frightened them so much that they decided to return.

View of snowy mountain Zla Kolata — *On the border with Albania. From now on the climb will be tough*

We wondered what to do next. The path marked in the GPS map was heading into the valley between Dobra and Zla Kolata. It looked a bit risky when it comes to avalanche danger. It looked like there is a layer of fresh snow. I thought several times to give up and come back next time when there was less snow, but Joanne told me: “Let’s try. If it doesn’t work, we’ll turn around.” I was surprised because my girlfriend almost never takes risks. I didn’t want to be a coward, so I decided to give it a try.

Avalanche danger at Zla Kolata?

To make the climb easier, we hid unnecessary things from our backpacks behind a large stone and continued up with only one backpack. We put on our crampons and headed between Dobra and Zla Kolata. Fortunately, the snow was compact and held well. There didn’t seem to be danger from avalanches. We overcame the unpleasant steep passage in minutes. Then we quickly walked through the valley and reached another steep climb until we reached the ridge between both Kolatas. Fortunately there wasn’t so much snow, so it was without avalanche danger. In a while we reached the final ridge.

View from Zla Kolata to Montenegro — *View from the final ridge*

Joanne was suddenly scared. The ridge seemed to be too steep for her but the snow was frozen here and I knew the remaining part would be easier than the previous part: “Come on, Joanne, you will easily handle the last 150 elevation meters,” I encouraged her. The final climb wasn’t really that difficult and after a few minutes we were standing on Zla Kolata.

It was warm and calm on the summit so we could enjoy a nice break after seven hours of a tough ascent. A well-deserved rest. We had a magnificent view over the mountain peaks on the Albanian side. Unfortunately, we could’t see across the horizon on the Montenegrin side. Since there was an overhang of snow on the horizon that could collapse, we skipped this view.

Beautiful view from the peak of Zla Kolata — *Happy Joanne on the peak. She doesn’t know yet what’s going to happen in an hour*

We didn’t stay on the peak for a long time. It was 5:30 p.m., so we rather hurried to get back to the valley during daylight. After all, we also ordered dinner at eight in the house. Let’s see if we manage to come back in time.

What is tougher? To ascend or to descend?

It was much easier to go down. I really enjoy descending in the snow. It’s much more enjoyable than going downhill in summer. It’s faster and much more gentle for your knees and ankles. Along the way we picked up all our stuff and went further down.

It went well on the way down but not as fast as we expected. It was sure that we would arrive late. We left the snowy part at 19:30. When we finally saw the path in the forest, we were relieved. Now it is just 90 minutes of a calm walk in the forest. Even though it is getting dark we certainly will not get lost there. The last 6 km.

To make the descent more fun I wanted to start some conversation: “Joanne, do you remember what the landlady said about the last tourists who visited her?” Joanne knew where this was going. “Yes, they saw the bear’s footprints.” “And do you know what to do if you see a bear?” Joanne shrugged. “You must look like you’re big and make some sounds so the bear is startled and will flee. But when you are too close or when a bear is with cubs there may be a problem,” I explained (which was all I remembered from a visit of a bear sanctuary in Romania. Actually, my explanation was not even correct. Check out what you should exactly do if you meet a bear.)

Then our conversation ended. We were both tired to talk. We passed a small stream. That made me a little nervous. If there was a bear walking around, he wouldn’t hear us because of the stream. It is noisier than our footsteps. I thought to myself: I have to raise another topic. I need to talk with Joanne so we are louder.

“Brum brum”

Before my tired head could think of something, a bear appeared on the path ahead. My heart almost stopped beating. His bright eyes scared me so much. Instinctively, I raised my hands with poles above my head and started to make sounds with them. “Joanne, pick up your poles too and do the same. We have to show that we are tall.” But even two minutes of clapping with our poles didn’t make the bear move. The bear was still staring at us.

What if he attacked? Do we have a chance to defend ourselves with trekking poles? I was angry at my brain that it was thinking this way. What else should we do to make him leave? I made my brain think about this. What else could scare the bear? He was still standing, watching our futile attempts to scare him. Joanne suddenly screamed. ‘There are two of them! One more little one!”

I didn’t see the other bear but this made me super scared. “Joanne, keep clapping with your poles. I’ll try to find our headlamps in the bag and I’ll turn on some music on my phone. Perhaps it will help…” The bear was still looking at us. I couldn’t find the headlamps. They were of course at the bottom of the backpack. My hands were shaking. Instead of headlamps, I turned on the light on my phone and also the first song on my playlist. It was the song “Death” by my favorite band White Lies. This randomly selected song by iPhone made me laugh inside but I hoped it wouldn’t predict the last minutes of our lives!

The bear is reacting to the song! Apparently he didn’t like my music taste and went down to the river. We were lucky. We sighed but we still had the adrenaline in our veins. What now? Can he come back? What if he went for reinforcements? I couldn’t get rid of these irrational thoughts.

Bad music taste can save life!

I remembered the most important lesson about bears that was omitted in my last conversation with Joanne. How do you avoid meeting bears? You have to make noise. Tourists are usually recommended to wear jingle bells. We didn’t have one so we decided for alternative sounds. Karaoke. We were so scared that we continued singing to other White Lies songs until we reached the village Vusanje. The karaoke fulfilled its purpose. We got back safely.

Quick Instagram reactions on meeting with a bear — *Quick Instagram reactions on bear meeting*

We returned at nine o’clock in the evening. “Where have you been so long?” the landlady asked us when we got back. “Bear,” I replied. The landlord understood the situation. “Rakija?” Joanne and I nodded. Rakija and a conversation with the locals until the late hours were a nice end of this crazy bear story. Next time we will not come to the forest without bear spray and a jingle bell.

My tips for climbing the mountain Zla Kolata:

Bring a jingle bells and bear spray to avoid and protect yourself against bears.
The hike is very long and time consuming. Even in summer there might be snow in the valley below Zla Kolata.
Stay overnight with locals in the village of Vusanje. They are incredibly hospitable.

View over the highest mountain of Kosovo

August 20, 2023 • 0 Comment

Essential guide to reaching the higest mountain of Kosovo – Rudoka e Madhe

Until recently, Đeravica was considered to be the highest mountain of Kosovo. However, the border between Kosovo and Northern Macedonia was adjusted and since then the highest peak moved to the top of Rudoka e Madhe (also known as Velika Rudoka (Big Rudoka) in Macedonian and Maja e Njeriut in Albanian), which is 2 meters higher than Đeravica. Follow this article to find out everything you need before your visit about Rudoka e Madhe including my personal experience, a map and practical tips. How is the climb to this 2,658 m high mountain?

Important information for climbing Rudoka e Madhe from hotel Arxhena

Short description of the ascent: Long hike with elevation over 1,000 m
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: May - October
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: There isn't any specific law in Kosovo that says wild camping is either legal or illegal
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Hotel Arxhena
Height of the peak: 2,658 m
Hiking distance: 10.8 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Rudoka e Madhe: 4-6 hours up, 3-5 hours down
Elevation climbed: 1,194 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Hotel Arxhena, then the path continues along a river but don't drink water from it. It passes a farm with cattle.
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Sabaja IPA **** (6 stars maximum)

What is the best hiking route to Rudoka e Madhe?

There is basically only one popular route to Rudoka e Madhe. It starts in the ski center and hotel Arxhena in Kosovo. The hiking route starts along a ski slope and continues via a beautiful valley. The steepest part comes at the final part of the hike after you pass a small lake and a farm.

Map of the climb to Rudoka e Madhe from hotel Arxhena

My story of climbing Rudoka e Madhe in winter conditions with personal experience and tips

I climbed Rudoka e Madhe as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. How did it go? After climbing the highest point of Northern Macedonia and Albania – Golem Korab, I went for a new challenge. My girlfriend Joanne and I were about to ascend the new highest peak of Kosovo.

Library in the capital city of Kosovo -Pristina — *We *even* visited Pristina. This is the main and largest library in the country*.

It all started in the capital Pristina. The plan was to go directly to the mountains but the weather was worse than expected. We had to wait three days until the weather was reasonable enough to climb Rudoka e Madhe. We took advantage of the break from the mountains and explored Kosovo.

View over the UNESCO city Priznen — *The city of Prizren at the doorstep of Kosovan mountains.*

When the weather was finally getting better we headed to the Arxhena ski resort in Kosovo where you can find the starting point to Rudoka e Madhe. We passed the nice city Prizren, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and then many cows, sheep and goats on the road before we arrived to hotel Arxhena just next to the ski resort.

In a horror movie

It looked very modern from a distance. We wondered: “Maybe, that’s why it was so expensive on booking.com. It might be a luxury!” However, when we entered it looked terrible inside. Unfinished constructions, holes in staircases, reception covered by plastic, no radiators. Will we survive here until the morning?

Scary hotel in Kosovo — *Charming hotel*

We did even though it was cold at night. We got up at six o’clock to have extra time in case the weather forecast didn’t work and that was a good decision. It was supposed to be sunny but we got a surprise. When we looked out of the window it was completely white outside. New snow and cloudy. We expected snow on top of Rudoka e Madhe but not here next to our hotel which lies only at 1,500 meters above sea level. Really? It is the 7th of May!

Well, the hike will be all in the snow. After a quick breakfast we set out on our journey. It was beautiful outside. The landscape looked like in a fairy tale with the fresh snow. I must admit that the locals chose a beautiful spot for the ski resort. The sharp rocks surrounding the hotel looked amazing covered by snow.

Snowy landscape of sharp mountains in Kosovo — *Morning surprise*

The first part of the journey to the highest point of Kosovo was going on the ski slope. It was the steepest part of the trip. The skiing season was already over so the lift was not in operation. After the initial climb we followed an approximately 5 km long valley until we reached an abandoned farmhouse. We were lucky that the clouds were constantly getting higher, so we still had a nice view over the “sugar covered” landscape.

Snowy landscape of mountains in Kosovo — *The longest part of the hike is along this beautiful canyon*

Sudden tough winter expedition

Behind the farmhouse, it was clear that the climb will be more challenging. The freshly fallen snow was joined by snow from the past winter months. There were no traces in the snow at all. It looked like no one had gone to the summit of Rudoka e Madhe in recent days. Who knows if anyone at all this year.

View over a river and highest point of Kosovo Rudoka e Madhe covered by snow — *We could see Rudoka for only a very short time just when we reached the small farmhouse*

We had to make our own way. I wish we would have had snowshoes. We got deep with every step. The hike was getting tougher and tougher and the clouds suddenly dropped. We ended up in a dense fog. We couldn’t see further than a few meters. Thanks to GPS we could still continue towards the summit. Luckily Rudoka e Madhe isn’t steep so we weren’t scared of complicated terrain like on the way to Golem Korab in Macedonia.

During the final ascent, there were parts of deep snow and ice. We were glad we had crampons with us. We put them on and continued. The higher we were, the stronger the wind blew. It brought fresh snow and it sometimes felt like we were climbing Everest. A kilometer before the summit of Rudoka e Madhe we passed a 2,629 meter high peak and continued along a ridge. Here the terrain was supposed to be a bit more steep but we couldn’t see anything. Luckily the snow was frozen and solid so we weren’t scared of avalanches.

After a while we saw a small column in front of us. That’s Rudoka e Madhe! We are on top of Kosovo. We had no view but we were happy we managed it. I enjoyed the winning feeling with a peak beer and Joanne with coke.

On top of Rudoka e Madher — *Happy to share these experiences with Joanne*

Summit selfie from Rudoka e Madhe — *Summit selfie*

We followed our traces on the way back so it was much faster. After four hours we got back to our hotel where we got a tasty soup. We were tired but we definitely didn’t want to stay in the hotel for another night. In addition to the unpleasant hotel experience, we had also checked the weather forecast. The next day it should be clear sky in Montenegro and then 5 days of heavy snowfall. Tomorrow or never. We have to try climbing the highest point of Montenegro!

Beautiful flowers in mountains in Kosovo — *On the way back to the hotel the snow had already melted at some points and beautiful flowers showed up*

My tips for climbing the mountain Rudoka e Madhe:

Do not stay overnight at the Arxhena Hotel. In addition to the terrible atmosphere, the hotel is also very expensive.
The hike is very long. Don’t underestimate food and water supplies for the trip.
The orientation can be more complicated. Be sure to take GPS navigation with you.
Visit the city Prizren, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on the way.

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