Expedition Archives - The Best Viewpoints

May 26, 2024 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest peak of Liechtenstein – Vorder Grauspitz

Vorder Grauspitz is a sharp peak in the alpine mountains Rätikon and you can experience there one of the most exciting hikes in Europe. The ascent to the summit via the most common route is unique as you have to pass a tunnel. In addition, you can expect a climb in a very steep terrain and there is no marked path to the top. Even though Vorder Grauspitz is only 2,599 meters high it caused me big difficulties. It became the only mountain of the entire expedition European Peaks, where I had to give up during my summit day. I had to return again under more favorable conditions. What happened? Read on not only for general tips of Vorder Grauspitz but also for my personal experience and tips how to reach the peak.

Important information for climbing Vorder Grauspitz via the normal route from Switzerland

Short description of the ascent from Malans, Switzerland: Demanding hike with scrambling, the last part of the hike is very steep and unmarked.
Essential equipment: General hiking gear, hiking poles and stable hiking shoes recommended for great stability in the steep parts.
Best time to visit: June - September
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes, above the tree line
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Haus Meierhüsli in village Malans
Height of the peak: 2,599 m
Distance to the top: 9 km (one way)
Time to ascend from the top of cable car to Vorder Grauspitz: 4-6 hours up, 3-5 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,210 m (on the way up), 301 m (on the way back) 
Water availability on the mountain: Yes, last time at the farm Alp Ijes.
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Club Bier 06 Summer Ale *** (6 stars maximum)

Warning before you start reading about Vorder Grauspitz

I managed to summit Vorder Grauspitz in winter during excellent conditions but be aware that there is no clear path to the top of Vorder Grauspitz. You can expect there a very steep terrain with loose stones on the last section of the hike/climb in summer and avalanche danger in winter. Consider going up only if you have enough experiences and ideally during dry conditions.

Two possible routes to Vorder Grauspitz

The two routes below describe the ways to Hinter Grauspitz. The route between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz is the same for both routes. The routes are easy to follow but I recommend to bring GPS navigation as they are not clearly marked and there are many crossroads on the way.

Normal route from Malans, Switzerland: This route is most often used to reach Vorder Grauspitz because you can save hundreds of elevation meters via a cable car called Älplibahn. You will find it in the village Malans in Switzerland. If you are looking for accommodation at the starting point, book in advance because there aren’t many options. I recommend Haus Meierhüsli. From the top of the cable car you will walk through wonderful nature offering amazing views. The best views are coming at a pass at 2,050 m. From there, you can see Vorder Grauspitz for the first time. On the way, you will pass multiple farms and also a tunnel which is used to transport sheep even these days. After the tunnel you reach a small farm called Alp Ijes. From there, the route goes sharply up until you reach a ridge. Follow the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz. Note that the map (see also below) of the route ends at the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz, but you can continue up without problems (blue arrow in picture below). I explain the last part of the route between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz below.
Route from Liechtenstein: This route starts at a parking lot nearby the village Steg in Liechtenstein. This route is more demanding because you will need to pass much higher elevation and the path isn’t marked from approximately 1,750 m. Therefore, a GPS is a must. Scrambling is necessary too on some parts of this route.

From Hinter Grauspitz to Vorder Grauspitz: you will follow the same route for both routes. It isn’t far but there is a very exposed ridge without a path in between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz, which you can only climb with full climbing equipment and experience. Fortunately, there is an alternative route (red arrow in picture below). From Hinter Grauspitz, go down the ridge leading to Switzerland (the same way as you go up on the Swiss route) until it isn’t too steep (around 2,400 m – approximately where the route ends on this map) and then you traverse the slope under the ridge towards Vorder Grauspitz. Note that there is no path and the terrain is uncomfortable, but it is possible to do it. I highly recommend to bring very good shoes as the steep terrain will be tough for your ankles. There are also many loose stones. Be careful! Once you reach the ridge leading up to Vorder Grauspitz, follow it to the top.

For more clarity, I am adding a picture taken from Vorder Grauspitz and tips on how to reach it:

The blue arrow leads to Hinter Grauspitz on the ridge (Swiss route to Hinter Grauspitz).
The red arrow is the recommended route if you want to skip Hinter Grauspitz via the Swiss route.
The orange arrow is the route that I took after reaching Hinter Grauspitz and describe below. We took this way but the conditions can vary in summer/winter so decide your route based on current conditions. It isn’t recommended, because it is very steep.

Description to climb mountain Vorder Grauspitz

Maps of the climb to Vorder Grauspitz

Normal route from Switzerland (note that it ends at the start of the blue and red arrow in the picture above)

Liechtenstein route (note that it shows the route via the ridge between Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz – an alternative route is described above)

My story of climbing Vorder Grauspitz in winter conditions with personal tips

I climbed Vorder Grauspitz as a part of my project European Peaks in the month of May but surprisingly it was a very difficult task! There were still winter conditions. The ministate Liechtenstein hides a polished treasure – a sharp peak with an unbeatable view! Since I heard the climb can be very challenging in winter conditions I decided to climb it with a guide.

We arrived to the recently renovated cable car Älplibahn at seven o’clock in the morning. We were told that there is still a continuous snow cover from the cable car’s end station so we took up back-country skis again.

Älplibahn cable car in Switzerland — *Älplibahn*

On the top we were stopped by an employee of the cable car: “At this time of year the ascent to the summit is very difficult, probably even impossible. This year brought unusually so much snow that I doubt you will manage. Be careful! There can even be avalanches.” We assured him we’ll be careful. Let’s see.

Too much snow at Grauspitz

We put our skis on and started our journey. We climbed 200 elevation meters up to the first ridge from which there is a great view of Grauspitz itself. This mountain has actually two peaks – Hinter Grauspitz and Vorder Grauspitz. The marked path leads only to Hinter Grauspitz, which is twenty-five meters lower. Between the two peaks is a very sharp ridge. We’ll see how possible it will be to reach it when we get there.

View over Vorder Grauspitz in winter — *The first view over Vorder Grauspitz (the sharp remote peak in the middle of the picture)*

Now there was a valley between us and Grauspitz, so we had to go down and climb up to the opposite ridge. It was nine o’clock in the morning and it was already very warm. The snow turned into a wet slush. The mountain guide warned me in advance: “The conditions are very risky. Avalanches are possible. I’ll go first and see.”

His ride across the slope tore down a small and slow but very heavy and wet avalanche. Climbing Grauspitz in these conditions will be really difficult. We will see what the situation will look like on the other ridge. We skied down to a small farm Fläscher Alp which was covered with snow up to the roof. This year’s winter has been very generous.

Swiss Alps and Fläscher Alp in winter — *Fläscher Alp covered by snow*

Too risky conditions at Vorder Grauspitz

While we continued to the other side of the ridge it was clear that the snow was melting fast in this weather. It was most visible on a rocky hill on the other side, where small avalanches were falling very frequently. Soon we reached a hole in the rock. The trail continued through a tunnel. We took off our skis and walked towards the other side of the tunnel but there was an unpleasant surprise. 95% of the entrance was covered by snow. What now?

We had to start digging to get out. After a while we succeeded and we saw Grauspitz from the other side. However, that was the last positive news. More than three meters of wet snow and very steep terrain meant that we can’t continue. It would be too dangerous when it comes to avalanches. This time the weather and the mountains said no. We can’t get to the top. However, the mountain will stay. I’ll try to climb it another time.

Getting out of tunnel through a lot of snow — *Crazy amount of snow at the end of the tunnel*

Attempt No. 2

14 days later I was on the way back. I had big respect to this mountain due to the first experience so I was very careful this time. Before my journey I wrote to the Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research to see if there was any avalanche danger on Grauspitz. They weren’t actually releasing any statements anymore. June is already off season. However, I got a reply to my email: “There is still over a meter of snow at the top of Grauspitz but the snow cover is stabilized. There should be no avalanche danger in case there will be a freezing night before your summit day.”

After my return from Russia I had to wait a few days for the freezing night but it came! Time for the last summit of my expedition.

On June 13 I met again with my two climbing partners who climbed with me the highest point of Switzerland. We all met by the cable car Älplibahn. In order to climb the mountain under the best possible conditions, we decided to meet one day before the summit day to sleep under the peak and go up very early in the morning. This should ensure perfect snow conditions. We did as we planned. We brought again our back-country skis but this time we also brought common hiking shoes in case the snow melted.

It was gloomy down by the cable car but as soon as we arrived to the end station of the cable car we got above the clouds. We had a wonderful view of the ocean of clouds and small islands of the snowy Swiss Alps. When the nice old gentleman saw us he immediately laughed, “Haha. Next try? I told you, Grauspitz will not be climbable until the end of June. There’s still over a meter of snow behind the tunnel.” We will see.

Beautiful early spring day in Switzerland — *It was a wonderful late spring day*

This time we didn’t put on our skis. There was no snow until the first ridge. What a change in just two weeks! Then we could ski at least for a while until we reached Fläscher Alp farm. Our plan was to sleep there. We originally thought we would just bivouac outside but the weather changed our plans. Clouds suddenly began to rise and covered even the farm. After a while, it even started to rain. Since we didn’t bring any tent we were looking for an alternative accommodation. We were lucky one of the houses for cattle was open so we could sleep on the floor. Nothing luxurious but better than in rain..

Fläscher Alp in spring — *The snow melted significantly in Fläscher Alp in two weeks*

It was late so we just pulled out our mats and sleeping bags and went to bed. But I didn’t sleep well. “What if the clouds cover the whole mountain and it won’t freeze at night? Was the prediction wrong again? What if I went to the highest mountain in Liechtenstein again, unnecessarily?”

When we woke up at 3:30 a.m. we went outside to check the weather. Still foggy and wet. Our only hope was that the peak remained cloudless. Since we didn’t know what conditions are behind the tunnel we brought the back-country skis and hiking equipment. I also had to take two pairs of crampons because one pair was fitting my hiking shoes and one was fitting my skiing boots. All together my backpack weighed 20 kilograms.

At 4:15 we were ready to leave. It was as dark and foggy but there was no snow until the tunnel so we reached it easily. At the other end of the tunnel, I was expecting a lot of snow. After all, there was over two meters of it just two weeks ago. But now? Nothing. All the snow melted. What a surprise! Maybe we didn’t even had to bring the skis.

We continued to the nearby farm Alp Ijes. There was finally snow. It was still foggy but luckily it was freezing so the snow was compact and stable. “We can climb up.” our mountain guide said. Time to ascend.

We continued up according to the navigation. We were still climbing in the fog and in a bad mood. Hopefully the rising sun will dissolve the clouds. After a while the hope came true. The blue sky began to appear in the clouds above us. We continued up for a few more minutes and got above the clouds. Suddenly we saw all the beauty around. Sharp mountains, long ridges and especially the path we have to take to the top. Amazing. Suddenly I thought that we couldn’t have wished for better weather for the final peak than this one. How quickly the mood can change!

Above clouds in Swiss mountains — *We are finally above the clouds!*

Sunrise above clouds in Swiss mountains — *Suddenly amazing weather!*

In addition to the great visibility, it was also noticeable that it was freezing on the ridge at night. The snow was hard and frozen. The way to the peak is free. We put down our skis and looked around to see where we would continue. There were two possible routes. Should we follow the ridge to Hinter Grauspitz and then continue to Vorder Grauspitz or should we skip Hinter Grauspitz, traverse along it and get to Vorder Grauspitz directly?

Highest Peak of Liechtenstein Vorder Grauspitz — *Which way will be better to Vorder Grauspitz?*

The first alternative seemed to be less steep so we decided for that one. The second option seemed to be too steep at first glance. 80% of the climb to Hinter Grauspitz was on snow so we took crampons on. It was an easy climb. In half an hour we already reached the top of the second highest point of Liechtenstein. The view was beautiful. This part of the Alps is really amazing. Unfortunately, the journey we wanted to take wasn’t possible. The ridge between both Grauspitz was too steep and the rocks were very unstable after the tough winter.

Therefore, we had to return 200 meters down and go to the highest point via the traverse. This route was also very steep but the snow was hard so we could secure with our ice axes.

We passed the traverse in half an hour and we had ahead only the final climb. If all goes well, I’ll finish my expedition in about 15 minutes. From this point, the slope didn’t look as steep it looked from the ridge were we left the skis. This will be an easy climb if I compare it for example with our crazy climb to Maglić. We can do it!

Last steps of expedition European Peaks

During the last steps, my entire expedition was reflected in my head. In particular, I remembered all the difficult moments: When my mother sprained her ankle in Romania and I accompanied her back to civilization; when Joanne and I met a bear in Montenegro and we almost got scared; when I lost my hiking pole and had to go to the Dufourspitze with a broom; my accident in Scotland… I was beginning to realize that this wonderful ascent would be the last one of the expedition.

The final ridge was very narrow but it was still possible to pass it. After a few minutes I was finally standing on the top. The last mountain of the expedition was conquered.

View from Vorder Grauspitz — *What a view you have from Vorder Grauspitz*

In the end, the climb was not as challenging as I feared. I was actually glad that we made the climb on snow. In the summer, climbing on the breaking stones and slippery grass would probably be much tougher. This was actually confirmed by other climbers who climbed Grauspitz in summer.

View from Vorder Grauspitz to Hinter Grauspitz — *Can you see the cross of Hinter Grauspitz?*

I opened the last peak beer and wanted to enjoy the moment of victory but half of it leaked out when I opened it. It even made my Czech flag dirty which I had prepared for the top photo. The life is not perfect. I enjoyed the moment anyway.

Czech flag on Vorder Grauspitz — *Me on the top of the last peak of my expedition with a dirty Czech flag because of beer*

I wanted to stay on the peak longer but I couldn’t. Time was running out. My flight from Zürich was leaving in six hours. I had to catch the cable car latest in two and half hours so I had at least a theoretical chance to catch the plane back home.

Happiness is only real when shared

The journey back was crazy. First we ran back to our skis, then we took a quick downhill to Alp Ijes where I said goodbye to Petra and our mountain guide. “Thank you very much. I wouldn’t manage this without you” and had to continue further with my 20 kg backpack. I ran back to Fläscher Alp farm, added a sleeping bag and mat to my backpack and continued to the cable car. My whole body ached, I was very hungry and thirsty, but there was no time to take a break. The tourists I passed were shaking their heads when they saw me running with all the equipment.

I reached the cable car two minutes before its departure. I wanted to rest there but two older but nice and inquisitive ladies kept asking me questions in the cabin. They also didn’t believe that it was still possible to ski at these altitudes. I showed them photos from the peak and they kept on asking. In the end, I didn’t find time to drink or eat in the cable car. The next opportunity will be at the airport.

The rest of the journey by car to the airport was crazy. I’d rather not describe it. If the Swiss police read it on this blog they would send me a few fines. The important thing was that I caught the plane last minute.

Now I am back at home in Stockholm and I am finally sitting on our couch. My girlfriend is opening a bottle of champagne and says: “Congratulations to your World Record. You became the fastest to climb the highest mountain of every European country. You made it.” Until then, I honestly wasn’t happy about the completion of the expedition. I just had to hurry all the time. To the cable car, to the plane and to the train from the airport. But now I finally start to realize it. When I discuss all the experiences from my last days with Joanne, I am realizing how amazing this expedition was. There is definitely something about the quote from the movie Into the Wild: “Happiness is only real when shared.”

My tips for climbing the mountain Vorder Grauspitz:

In winter conditions there is a big risk of avalanches. Before leaving to the mountains check the current situation on the website of Swiss Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research.
Surprisingly, a winter ascent may be easier than in summer due to slippery stones and grass in summer.
GPS navigation with you is a must.
Chat with the employee of the cable car. He’s a very nice gentleman.
Recommended accommodation in Switzerland: Haus Meierhüsli in village Malans

View at the highest mountain of Switzerland - Dufourspitze

May 19, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest Swiss peak – Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa)

The most challenging mountain of the European Peaks project is the Swiss Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa). Climbing Dufourspitze, named after the Swiss founder of the Red Cross, requires even more physical and mental preparation than Mont Blanc. It requires all – proper acclimatization and experience in both rock and glacier climbing. Those who can cope with all these obstacles will be rewarded with unforgettable views. This article will give you all necessary information you need before your climb to the highest peak of Switzerland including description of the route, a map, practical information and my own experience from the summit. If you are looking for a local experienced mountain guide, I will help you out. At the end of the article, you will find more detailed tips.

What is the highest peak of Switzerland?

Many people wrongly think it’s Matterhorn (4478 m) but in fact it’s Dufourspitze with its elevation of 4634 m. Dufourspitze is the highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif so you can also sometimes find this name as the highest peak of Switzerland.

Important information for climbing Dufourspitze via the normal Swiss route

Short description of the ascent from Gornergrat: Demanding multi-day climb on rocks on glacier 
Essential equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (August, September best)
Camping allowed: No
Best accommodation at starting point: Gornergrat hotel with fantastic view over Matterhorn and Dufourspitze or more affordable hotel with spa and Matterhorn view in Zermatt
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Monte Rosa hut
Height of the peak: 4,634 m
Distance to the top: 12.4 km (one way without acclimatization)
Time to ascend from Gornergrat to Dufourspitze and back: Recommended 3 days + acclimatization (see itinerary below)
Water availability on the mountain: Monte Rosa hut
Difficulty level: ****** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Lager Hell *** (6 stars maximum)

The most popular route to Dufourspitze (also called the normal Swiss route)

Starting Point: Zermatt, Switzerland:
- Most climbers begin their ascent from the town of Zermatt in Switzerland. Zermatt is a scenic car-free village which visitors typically reach by train. A car can be parked at Täsch.
Acclimatization:
- Before attempting Dufourspitze, climbers often spend a few days acclimatizing in the region. This may involve ascending smaller peaks or staying at high-altitude huts. An easy option can be Klein Matterhorn which can be reached by a cable car. From there it’s also possible to climb an easy 4,164 m high mountain Breithorn.
Approach to Monte Rosa Hut:
- The ascent to Dufourspitze usually starts at the Gornergrat railway station which you can reach comfortably by train. Buy your train tickets in advance to secure your spot. It is also a wonderful viewpoint from where you can marvel at Dufourspitze before your summit. If you have extra time, consider staying one night in Gornergrat hotel nearby the station with fantastic view, not only over Dufourspitze but also over Matterhorn. From Gornergrat, a long and scenic trek leads to the Monte Rosa Hut which is used as base camp for climbers.
Monte Rosa Hut (Hütte):
- Situated at an elevation of around 2,883 meters (9,459 feet), the Monte Rosa Hut is a popular starting point for ascending Dufourspitze. Climbers often spend a night here to further acclimatize before attempting the summit.
Sattel and Western Ridge:
- After long rock and glacier hike from the Monte Rosa hut, you’ll reach Sattel at 4,359 m from where you can see a very impressive view of the sharp crest of the West Ridge. That’s where the last part of the climb is leading. It’s the most difficult part of the whole summit. Proper equipment and experience is necessary. Once you pass the the final Western Ridge you’ll finally get to the summit of Dufourspitze.
Descent:
- The descent can be done in a day but many climbers choose to stay one more night at Monte Rosa hut before returning to Zermatt.

Map of the climb of Dufourspitze via the normal Swiss route

Ski touring itinerary to Dufourpitze

I climbed Dufourspitze in winter conditions on skis so my story below will talk about a little bit different route than the normal Swiss route. This was our itinerary:

Day 1: Ski touring from Klein Matterhorn to Monte Rosa Hut (Elevation climbed: 499 m)
Day 2: Ski touring from Monte Rosa Hut to Dufourspitze and back to Monte Rosa hut (Elevation climbed: 1,778 m)
Day 3: Ski touring from Monte Rosa to Zermatt (Elevation climbed: 200m)

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Switzerland – Monte Rosa (Dufourspitze)

I summited Dufourspitze as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I was supposed to reach the Swiss highest peak in May and it was surprisingly very difficult to find a weather window. It took one week until finally a perfect weather gap showed up. It was supposed to be sunny and windless for 48 hours. Time to go!

The journey to Switzerland took me, my friend Petra and our guide a very long time from the Czech Republic but we had at least some time to get to know each other. We met just a week ago in a Czech Facebook climbing group!

It was clear that I would be the least experienced back-country skier. The mountain guide had been guiding people on back-country skis for thirty years and Petra is a skiing instructor who spends all her free time on back-country skis. Hopefully, my quadruple back country experience will be enough to handle their pace.

Driving from the Czech Republic to Switzerland was tiring. We arrived late at night, slept shortly and arrived early in the morning to the village of Täsch which is the last place you can reach by car on the way to Zermatt. There we took a taxi to one of the most famous villages in the Alps.

Time to acclimatize

View at Zermatt village and mountain Matterhorn — *Zermatt and Matterhorn*

We didn’t stay long in Zermatt. We planned to acclimatize and move to the Monte Rosa hut that day, so we quickly headed for the cable car station and bought a ticket for the Klein Matterhorn. It is the highest cable way station in Europe with its height of 3,883 m above the sea level. A perfect starting point for an acclimatization walk.

View at Zermatt from a cable car on the way to Klein Matterhorn — *Leaving Zermatt behind*

I was short of breath. Overcoming more than 2,000 elevation meters in a few minutes isn’t the easiest task for people’s lungs. I was getting used to the thin air while looking at skiers who were coming back to Zermatt on still perfect and almost empty slopes. Shouldn’t we rather go skiing?

View from Klein Matterhorn to Breithorn — *View from Klein Matterhorn*

In a few minutes my lungs got a bit used to the thin air, so I was ready to start our acclimatization skiing day. The plan was to traverse around the mountains Breithorn and Roccia Nera and then descend via the Schwärzegletscher glacier to the Monte Rosa hut where we will sleep before the subsequent summit day.

Beautiful mountain Breithorn — *Breithorn*

My first challenging off-piste skiing

We moved slowly to get used to the thin air. Fortunately, the journey was not long. It took us two hours until we reached the point from where we wil ski down. When I saw where we were going to go down, I thought to myself how much percent chance I had to survive this. Will an avalanche or a fall in a crevasse kill me? But we were with a mountain guide so I trusted his route selection.

The skiing was amazing. Until we reached the elevation of 3,300 m above sea level there was perfect powder snow. Then, the downhill was much more difficult since there was a layer of ice on the snow. I had to use the “plow position” most of the time. Nevertheless, we managed to descend the slope, and even managed to enjoy views of the Matterhorn and other sharp peaks of the Swiss Alps.

When we were almost down the glacier below the Monte Rosa Hut, Petra and our mountain guide noticed a shortcut. It looked great. If we manage to pass it we can skip climbing at least 200 elevation meters. At first I was glad. I don’t like unnecessary climbs. After a few meters, however, I saw what we have to descend: a rocky field covered with heavy wet snow. Is this a good idea?

End of the Dufourspitze climb?

Our mountain guide managed to reach the glacier without problems. I was following but then I fell for the first, second, third time. Fortunately, these were all controlled falls so I just shrugged it off and kept on skiing. I thought I could handle the downhill in the wet snow and continued down when one of my legs suddenly fell one meter deep in the snow. My leg got stuck in the snow and my face just fell straight down.

A skier is shoveling snow to find a lost pole — *Don’t shovel like this. It doesn’t work. It’s better not to be lazy and assemble it first*

I must have looked ridiculous and worse, I couldn’t get out of the position. My leg was stuck and I didn’t feel it. Does that mean that I lost it or that nothing happened to me? When Petra came to help me, it turned out that my leg is alive. She helped me to dig it out of the snow and I was ready to continue descending.

But then I realized I am missing one pole. Where is it? Petra and I started shoveling. We dug and dug but couldn’t find it. What now? Finally our mountain guide returned. I was hoping he would help us finding it but the leader said instead: “If you don’t remember at least roughly where it might have ended, it’s like looking for a needle in a haystack. You have no chance.” Of course, I had no idea so I sadly gave up on my pole. Hopefully I would find some solution to replace it.

We still had to climb a few elevation meters until the Monte Rosa Hut. The glacier towards the hut was already influenced by the afternoon sun so it was difficult to climb up. Even more for me, because I had just one pole.

Time to improvise

Sunset from Monte Rosa Hut and view over Matterhorn — *Sunset from Monte Rosa Hut*

We arrived to the Monte Rosa Hut just before sunset. I was super tired. Well, it makes sense. What would you expect after acclimatization at 3,800 meters, unsuccessful shoveling of roughly a wagon of snow and ascent of ca 500 altitude meters. I ate one Adventure Menu quickly and wanted to go to bed early but before going to bed I had to solve my pole problem. The shops in the Monte Rosa Hut are closed during the off season so I had to find an alternative. I walked around the hut when I suddenly saw my salvation: a broom! It was the perfect size. The same size like my remaining stick. Problem solved!

Alternative pole at Monte Rosa Hut — *My alternative pole*

After consulting with the only other group trying to ascend Dufourspitze the following day we decided to leave at 2:30 a.m. in the morning. Time to sleep.

But I couldn’t sleep. The risk of shared dormitories was once again manifested. Two of the six people snored loudly and my earplugs didn’t help. I rolled over and tried to fall asleep but in vain. After four hours of rolling, the alarm clock rang and everyone started preparing their breakfast. I gave up and went to eat too.

Summit day to Dufourspitze

Chicken tikka masala may sound like a weird breakfast at two in the morning but it tasted good and gave me the energy I needed. Then we quickly packed up our equipment and got ready for the summit. Dufourspitze is waiting.

Back country skiing climb to Dufourspitze at night with background of Matterhorn — *The beginning of our climb*

It was surprisingly warm at the hut but that was about to change soon. First we climbed relatively quickly and my broom stick worked well, so I didn’t cause much delay. The problems occurred from about 3,500 m above sea level. I wasn’t as well acclimatized as my friends but there was nothing to be done about it. We had to climb together. I just had to follow my pace and I hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

Skier enjoys sunrise and view to Matterhorn and other Swiss mountains — *Cold but beautiful sunrise*

The closer to sunrise was the colder it was. Unfortunately, the forecast was correct, −17 ° C was absolutely right. For the first time in my life I put on my expedition feather jacket on the actual climb (mostly I use it only during breaks or on top of mountains). Again, I hoped my friends wouldn’t freeze.

It was very cold but we had incredible views. I will never forget watching the first red sun rays covering Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, the sunshine didn’t reach us as the sun was behind the Monte Rosa massif.

Nothing for people having fear of heights

Crazy beautiful sunrise and view over Swiss mountains — *Crazy beautiful*

After five freezing hours we finally reached the Sattel ridge, where the bright sun warmed us up. Suddenly I felt pleasantly warm, just a bit scared of what is ahead. From now on we will have to climb a narrow and steep ridge. It was time to take off the skis, put on the crampons, tie in on the rope and continue on the steep ridge.

It was going well on the snow. The problem occurred when we had to start climbing the rocks. At that point I was really happy to have an experienced mountain guide with us. I would have turned around without him. I felt secure being on the rope.

Sharp climb of Swiss mountain Dufourspitze — *Time to start climbing*

I regretted not leaving my huge feather jacket and my large backpack with my skis. I felt very awkward during the climb but I was at least not cold. The ridge was very long and there were a few misleading horizons ahead. I thought several times that we must be on the top but there has always been a new one. The climb on the ridge took us over two hours. It was very challenging. Fortunately, we were lucky with the weather. The sun was warm and there was almost no wind. We finally reached the top at 11 am and enjoyed the well-deserved rest.

Deserved views from Dufourspitze

Happy climber on top of mountain Dufourspitze is taking a selfie — *Happy on the top*

Panorama view from mountain Dufourspitze 1 — *The views from the top are simply amazing*

Panorama view from mountain Dufourspitze 2 — *The views from the top are simply amazing*

Even though the views were amazing we didn’t stay on the top for a long time. We took a snack, took the necessary photographs, and decided to return. We still had a long way to go. The ridge was very difficult even during the descent. We returned to our skis as late as at 2 p.m. Then everything went much faster. We put our skis on and enjoyed the deserved descent back to the Monte Rosa Hut. In half an hour we managed to ski down 1,500 meters of altitude.

We wanted to take just a short meal and continue to Zermatt but the weather was against us. The sun was burning now. Compared to the morning −17 degrees, it had warmed by 40 degrees. The thermometer was showing 25°C, which meant that going downhill on the glacier to Zermatt would be dangerous. None of us wanted to fall into a crevasse so we stayed one more night at the Monte Rosa Hut.

View at mountain Dufourspitze — *Monte Rosa – Dufourspitze from below*

We slept twelve hours. We recharged our batteries and finally skied down back back to civilization. The glacier was still frozen in the morning so we could ski down for the entire 10 kilometers. When we passed the glacier we still had to hike an additional 8 kilometer along the glacier river. It was also tough in ski boots and with skis on the back but we managed to get into Zermatt safely. In Zermatt we were welcomed by draft beer and tasty garlic soup in restaurant Furi. We made it!

My tips for climbing the mountain Dufourspitze:

Climbing Dufourspitze is even more challenging than Mont Blanc. Experience with belaying not only on the glacier, but also on the rock is a necessity.
Acclimatization before the climb is necessary too.
Choose a mountain guide you trust.
Don’t bring a large jacket and backpack on the final Sattel ridge. It feels very clumsy.
Best accommodation at starting point: Gornergrat hotel with fantastic view over Matterhorn and Dufourspitze or more affordable hotel with spa and Matterhorn view in Zermatt
Nearest accommodation/food supply on the way: Monte Rosa hut

Book a mountain guide to climb Dufourspitze

Climbing Dufourspitze requires a high level of skill, experience, and preparation due to its technical difficulty, which involves glacier pass, rock climbing, and navigating crevasses. Weather conditions can change rapidly, creating dangerous situations, and therefore it’s necessary to have a local guide or a guide who already summited Dufourspitze for safety.

The route to the summit is complex, and guides have the expertise to navigate it efficiently. They also provide essential safety measures, including first aid and rescue procedures. Guides ensure climbers have the appropriate gear and know how to use it, manage the physical demands of the climb, and maximize the chances of a successful ascent.

If you need help finding a climbing guide, let me know. I partner with local skilled guides which can take you to the top of Dufourspitze safely. Please, fill in the form with information and I will connect you with the a matching guide.

Three climbers in front of Mont Blanc mountain

May 12, 2024 • 0 Comment

Ultimate guide to the highest mountain of the Alps – Mont Blanc

The highest mountain of the European Union, Mont Blanc, was to be the hardest test of my expedition European Peaks. I had already climbed the mountain three years ago, but it was with an experienced guide that time. This time I had to rely just on my own and my friends’ skills. The first time when I climbed Mont Blanc I took the so-called Three Monts route from Aiguille du Midi to the top, which was until then the most demanding climb of my life. This time we chose the simplest option, namely via the Gouter Hut. Which route is better? Follow this article for all necessary information you need before your climb of Mont Blanc including practical information, a map and also my personal experience. If you are looking for a local experienced mountain guide, I will help you out. At the end of the article, you will find more detailed tips.

Important information for climbing Mont Blanc via the Gouter route

Short description of the ascent from Nid'Aigle: Demanding multi-day climb on via ferrata and on glacier
Essential equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (June and September best)
Fees or restrictions: It isn't allowed to enter the Gouter route without proper climbing equipment
Camping allowed: Only nearby Tête Rousse Hut
Best accommodation at starting point: Well reviewed LE "PETIT GERVAIS" apartment nearby the train station to Mont Blanc at Saint Gervais les Bains; cosy Appartements de l'Héliopic in the city centre of Chamonix just next to the cable car to Aiguille du Midi
Nearest accomodation/food supply: Goûter hut and Tête Rousse Hut
Height of the peak: 4,807 m
Distance to the top: 9 km (one way without acclimatization climbs)
Time to ascend from Nid'Aigle to Mont Blanc and back: 4 days are recommended (see recommended itinerary below)
Elevation climbed (one way without acclimatization climb): 2,465 m 
Water availability on the mountain: At all the huts on the way.
Difficulty level: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Mont Blanc La Rousse ***** (6 stars maximum)

Two most popular routes to Mont Blanc

There are several routes to the highest mountain of the Alps Mont Blanc. Choose wisely according to your fitness level and climbing experience. For visitors without climbing and glacier experience, a guide is a must. Below you can see a description of the two most popular routes:

Gouter route: The so called normal route is the easiest way to Mont Blanc. I will describe this route thoroughly in this article.
The 3 Mont Blanc Traverse: This is a more demanding route leading from Aiguille du Midi. On this route you will pass two more mountains, Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit. This route is more technical and also longer than the Gouter route but there are less climbers so this route is recommended to more experienced climbers.

Recommended itinerary to climb Mont Blanc via the Gouter route

Since Mont Blanc is the highest mountain of the Alps, a proper acclimatization is a must. If you haven’t climbed this high before in your life, it’s highly recommended not to underestimate the acclimatization process. Below you can find my recommendation:

Day 0: Acclimatization in the Chamonix area – for example by taking a lift to Aiguille du Midi
Day 1: Train to Nid’Aigle and hike to Tête Rousse Hut with subsequent acclimatization to Gouter Hut
Day 2: Climb from Tête Rousse Hut to Gouter Hut with acclimatization to the mountain Dome du Gouter
Day 3: Climb from Gouter Hut to Mont Blanc and back to Gouter Hut
Day 4: Descend back to Nid’Aigle

Map of the climb via the Gouter route to Mont Blanc

My story of climbing Mont Blanc including personal tips

I climbed Mont Blanc as a part of my project European Peaks during which I visited the highest point of every European country. I had a big respect of Mont Blanc because it is “The deadliest mountain in the World”, where over 6,000 people have already died. Therefore, I took the preparations seriously and I fixed all mandatory climbing equipment, which was enforced after many fatal accidents happened. I also found two experienced climbing partners, Honza and Alča.

*Aiguille du Midi viewed from the Gouter Hut during sunset*

Gouter Route to Mont Blanc

Our trip started in a nice accommodation in the village of Saint Gervais-Les Bains right next to the train heading towards Mont Blanc. We slept well and we departed by this train at 8:30 towards the starting point of our expedition Le Nid d’aigle.

Mont Blanc Tramway taking us to Le Nid d'aigle — *Mont Blanc Tramway taking us to Le Nid d’aigle*

Since camping on the trail via the Gouter Hut was forbidden at the moment and still is, we had a plan to hike to the Tête Rousse Hut, sleep there, climb to the Gouter Hut the next day, acclimatize for a day around there, sleep at the Gouter Hut, and summit Mont Blanc during the third day. We got very lucky that there were some vacant beds on both huts, despite booking them very last minute. In fact, the huts had been sold out for a half a year but we were saved by some last minute cancellations.

View from the the Tête Rousse Hut to glacier — View from the Tête Rousse Hut

Dangerous Grand Couloir

During the first day we reached the Tête Rousse Hut. We had lunch – local cheese, which smelled like hell, but it was probably the best I had ever eaten. During the lunch we were looking at a scary Grand Couloir, which would wait for us on the way up to the Gouter Hut. Rocks kept falling down roughly every minute. We didn’t like that at all. The danger was obvious. Therefore, we decided to get up early in the morning before the sun started shining on the slope and while it was frozen. This should eliminate the risk of accidents.

In the end, we decided to wake up as early as at 1:30 am to have a safe walk through this probably most dangerous part of the expedition and to have even more time for more acclimatization the following day. That’s why I also went to sleep right after lunch. It still seemed that I had been very exhausted and I had lacked sleep since the whole previous trip.

Grand Couloir (Mont Blanc) on the way to Gouter Hut — *Grand Couloir (Mont Blanc)* on the way to the Gouter Hut

My friends hiked up the slope to see where we should pass the couloir at night. I thank them very much for this check. It saved us a lot of time in the middle of the night. Two hours later they were in the hut and fell asleep too. Four hours of quality sleep were handy for us. We woke up refreshed. We didn’t have much work left that day, just to pack up, eat a kilo of pasta and go back to sleep.

Tough alpine start at Mont Blanc

Apart from us, our neighbors went to sleep, too. Unfortunately. This time, the risk of dormitories proved its strength. One of our neighbors sounded like a carefully sharpened chainsaw. We did not understand that he didn’t wake himself up with his snoring. Unfortunately, he was the only one in the dorm who managed to sleep. At that moment I was really grateful for our afternoon nap. I didn’t close my eyes till the alarm rang.

Climbing from Tete Rousse Hut to Gouter Hut — *Climbing from the Tete Rousse Hut to the Gouter Hut (picture taken on the way back)*

We woke up at 1 am at night, had a quick breakfast and we started to climb up under the starlight. It was surprisingly warm outside. All we needed was a long sleeve t-shirt. Soon we got to the couloir, where, fortunately, no stones were falling at night, and we overcame it without any trouble. The introductory part of the journey reminded me of the ascent of Triglav. It was similarly steep, similarly carefully protected by steel ropes and under us there was a similarly steep slope. There was no need for belaying and tying up, so we didn’t waste time. Only a fool would take this path without a helmet, though. Rocks could still fall at any time. Unfortunately, we met many of these fools along the way.

The climb went really well for my friends. Unfortunately, I felt a little worse. That delicious cheese apparently did not settle well in my stomach. I did not feel good and was looking forward to reaching the Gouter Hut to have some rest. I secretly hoped that my friends felt alike, so we could shorten the planned acclimatization and go to sleep early.

Putting crampons on next to the Gouter Hut and time to acclimatize for Mont Blanc during night — *Putting crampons on next to the Gouter Hut and time to acclimatize*

Midnight snack saved me

We stopped at the Gouter Hut. We were hungry and we had a smaller snack. But I saw in my friends’ faces that there was no chance to talk about quitting climbing for the day. We got rid of a part of the load, which would not be needed for the acclimatization, we put on the crampons, harnesses, we tied up the rope, picked up the ice axes and we started to go upwards. We would see how far we would climb.

On the way to Dome du Gouter during dawn — *On the way to Dome du Gouter*

Sunrise over Mont Blanc

Suddenly, as if by magic, all of us were doing perfectly. After the climb to Dome du Gouter we were in a perfect time, so we decided: We would try to climb to the Mont Blanc itself. It started to get brighter and we finally glimpsed the top of Mont Blanc. This majestic mountain rises at least five hundred meters higher than the surrounding peaks. Really beautiful. After a few minutes the sun began to rise. It was a spectacle. The first rays reached the top of Mont Blanc, and in a few minutes, they fell on us. At that moment it would have been worth stopping time. These are the moments that made me undertake the expedition. This spectacle gave us so much energy that we would surely jump to the top as alpine chamois.

View over Mont Blanc from Dome du Gouter during sunrise — *View over Mont Blanc from Dome du Gouter*

And indeed, we did. The sun was supplying us with energy, and we were progressing greatly. We just had respect for the final ridge but without a reason. The wind was not blowing and the path was great, so everything went without a problem. We were not in a hurry. To rush would not even be possible, because the air was sparse. After about every twenty steps we took a half-minute break to replenish the oxygen, and in the meantime, we enjoyed the views of the surroundings.

On top of the Alps

After another hour we were already standing on the top. It was warm up there. Only a faint breeze was blowing and we enjoyed the sunshine. Surprisingly, the view from the top is not as beautiful as on the way up. At the very top there is a small plateau, and thus the horizon obscures the views. But when a person steps a little down to the side, there is a beautiful view of both the Italian and French Alps. I saw even the path I took last time. But I was glad I hadn’t taken it this time. The path via the Gouter Hut is much easier, and I think that anyone who is trained, acclimatized, properly equipped and who would not underestimate the weather could make it.

Selfie on top of Mont Blanc — *We made it! Mont Blanc reached!*

Unfortunately, a large percentage of tourists on the Mont Blanc doesn’t have proper equipment and enough experience or disregards the dangers of the weather. They do not only risk their health and lives, but also that of others. We could have convinced ourselves of this during our descent. After another hour, when we arrived back to Dome du Gouter, black clouds started to approach. It was clear that a thunderstorm would soon come, exactly as the weather forecast had said the day before. Despite this change of weather, however, we met several other groups who were still heading upwards. We were worried especially about the last group of five Japanese tourists who didn’t really look like they knew what they were doing. They didn’t even have a rope. Our warning, however, did not interest them. Stubbornly, they continued.

The deadliest mountain in the world

Similarly, we couldn’t believe our eyes when, just before the Tete de la Rousse Hut, when we were passing again the dangerous couloir, where the stones were falling in the afternoon without a stop. Here we met a group of six Swedes who wore no helmets. What happened with the famous Swedish saying “security goes first”?

Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut over sharp mountains and sunset — *Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut*

There is a reason why people say that Mont Blanc is the most dangerous mountain in the world. It’s not because of the technical difficulty, but because of irresponsible tourists. Over 6,000 people have died on Mont Blanc. When I saw the approach of some of them, I understood that an accident is not quite a coincidence. The climb to Mont Blanc definitely requires both respect and experience. Hopefully nothing happened to either the Swedes or the Japanese people.

To end on a more positive note though, I’d like to write a few more sentences about our accommodation at the Gouter Hut. The overnight stay is definitely the most expensive I have experienced in dormitories anywhere in the world. The views of the sunrise and sunset from the hut are, however, absolutely fantastic. Even here it is definitely worth to spend one night. Look at the pictures.

Sunset watching at the Gouter Hut to sunset over Chamonix — *Sunset watching from the Gouter Hut*

Sunrise at Gouter Hut — *Sunrise at the Gouter Hut*

My tips for climbing the mountain Mont Blanc:

Proper acclimatization and good weather conditions are the key.
If you are a beginner, you should definitely not consider the ascent without a mountain guide (book below) or a friend who has experience in movement and safety on a glacier. Keep in mind that Mont Blanc is the deadliest mountain in the world and you should behave accordingly.
If you are a beginner, choose the so-called Classic route via the Gouter Hut. Book at least two nights in advance at the Gouter Hut or Tete de la Rousse. If you require accommodation in a dormitory, you must make a reservation at least half a year in advance. If a tent rental at the Tete de la Rousse Hut is enough for you, you can be more flexible. I recommend this option because you might sleep better. There will be less snoring people around you.
If you are an experienced mountaineer, try the Three Peaks route. It is a very demanding ascent, but with fewer tourists and there are no tenting restrictions.
Best accommodation at starting point: Well reviewed LE “PETIT GERVAIS” apartment nearby the train station to Mont Blanc at Saint Gervais les Bains; cosy Appartements de l’Héliopic in the city centre of Chamonix just next to the cable car to Aiguille du Midi

Book a mountain guide to climb Mont Blanc

There are three big reasons to book a mountain guide – safety, higher chance of summit and easier access to mountain huts. Let’s take a look at them more in detail.

I already explained all the obstacles you can encounter at Mont Blanc. Shortly, climbing Mont Blanc demands a high level of skill, preparation, and experience. The ascent involves technical challenges such as glacier pass, and steep snow and ice slopes. Weather conditions can change rapidly, posing significant risks, and therefore professional guides are recommended. They are trained to interpret these patterns and make safe decisions which will help you for a successful and safe summit. Overall, a guide significantly enhances safety, success, and the overall climbing experience on Mont Blanc.

Another big advantage with booking a mountain guide is that they have prebooked spots at mountain huts. Booking a guide will ensure a spot. If you are looking for a climbing guide, let me know. I partner with local skilled guides which can take you to the top of Mont Blanc safely. Please, fill in the form with information and I will connect you with the a matching guide.

May 5, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Germany – Zugspitze

I don’t know if it was the intention of the Germans, but the name of the mountain Zugspitze corresponds to reality. Zug means train and it indicates that it is possible to get to the top completely without using energy thanks to a cable car. Unfortunately. Zugspitze is a beautiful mountain with perfect views, but the amount of tourists going up is spoiling the atmosphere. What is the best way to reach the top without taking the cable car? This article will give you all necessary information before your visit including guidelines, a map and my own experience.

Important information for climbing Germany’s highest mountain

Short description of the ascent from Partnach: Steep and long climb using via ferrata
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear. Via ferrata equipment not necessary for all routes.
Best time to visit: June - September 
Fees or restrictions: Yes, fee to enter Partnach gorge (check current prices)
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: On the top in Münchner Haus
Best accommodation at starting point: Hotel Staudacherhof in Garmisch-Partenkirchen or hotel Eibsee nearby cable car to Zugspitze
Height of the peak: 2962 m 
Hiking distance: 19.4 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Zugspitze: 7-12 hours up, 4-6 hours back
Elevation climbed: 2280 m
Water availability on the mountain: Many huts (Bockhütte, Reintalanger, Knorr and Münchner Haus) on the way
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Aecht Schlenkerla ***** (6 stars maximum)

The best routes to Zugspitze

From Partnach Gorge: This route is long but beautiful and with a minimum of other tourists. It starts at the Partnach Gorge near Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The beginning is wonderful since it leads via a deep gorge along the river Partnach. Be aware that you have to pay a small fee to enter the gorge (check current prices). The next part until Reintal is going gently up on small roads. From there you are in an alpine paradise with fantastic views and a minimum of other tourists. The trail leads to the Reintalanger Hut, a mountain hut where hikers can rest and refresh. From there, the route continues up via Knorrhütte to the Schneeferner glacier where a via ferrata starts. The last part is the steepest but the via ferrata is just level A so it isn’t hard to reach the top of Zugspitze. We will take a deeper look at this route in this article.
From Hammersbach: The Hammersbach route is the most popular route to reach Zugspitze without a cable car. The route is named after the village Hammersbach near its starting point. The trail passes through beautiful forests first and then continues via the deep valley Höllentalklam. During the hike there are two huts. You can visit Höllentaleingangshütte, where you can take a break before going up the Höllentalklam and there is also the Höllentalanger Hut just before the steepest part. The last ascent to the Zugspitze goes via a glacier and steep via ferrata level C where it is recommended to have a helmet and via ferrata set.
From Ehrwald: There is also an option to climb to Zugspitze from Austria. This route starts in the village of Ehrwald in Austria. The beginning of the hike is easy but it continues later with steep terrain and via ferrata level A and B. Approximately halfway you can take a break at Wiener-Neustädter Hut. From there, the trail becomes even steeper as it approaches the Zugspitzplatt, a high plateau beneath the Zugspitze summit. The final section involves an ascent to the summit, which may include some exposed and challenging terrain.

Map of the best route to Zugspitze

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Germany – Zugspitze

Germany and its highest peak Zugspitze was another stop on my expedition European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I took an epic train ride to Germany from Innsbruck. The train tracks led through a beautiful alpine landscape. In addition to this beauty there was a thunderstorm, so the mountains were even more dramatic. When I arrived in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (also called Ga-Pa), the change in the weather took its toll. The temperature dropped by 20 degrees, and I started to freeze quickly in my shorts.

It was great that my booked hotel was nearby. After 15 minutes of walking I got to the most beautiful accommodation of the whole journey so far. The hotel looked like a castle, no exaggeration. And even the staff behaved according to that. I got some champagne as a proper welcome, and after the formalities was welcomed to a beautiful room. I did not hesitate and immediately jumped into the soft bed.

Hotel room in Ga-Pa — *My room in the castle hotel*

After half an hour of relaxing, Björn, a friend of mine, arrived and timed his arrival just for a prepared dinner. I pulled out the most decent clothes I had (shorts and a short-sleeved T-shirt) and set out to test the 5-course Bavarian dinner. Such dinners could be more often on my table during my whole expedition. Thanks a lot hotel Staudacherhof who supported me on my trip and offered me this amazing dinner and room on my trip to Zugspitze!

Partnach route to Zugspitze

After an unusually long sleep, we headed for breakfast where we finally started to plan our summit to Zugspitze. You can get to the top in several ways (as described above). Unfortunately, the simplest option, namely taking the cable car, is used by most people. My opinion, however, is that cable cars are enemies of the mountains, so this way was not possible. Another and for me the most appealing option was the shortest but the steepest route via ferrata from Hammersbach. Unfortunately, this route was not suitable due to unfavorable weather forecasts. It isn’t the smartest choice to climb the rocks in the rain. In the end we decided for the easiest but longest walking route which is 21 km long hike directly from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Zugspitze with an elevation of 2000 m.

We headed out at 11 a.m. and the maps suggested that the journey would take 10 hours. We were supposed to be at the top just before sunset. The journey began above my expectations. At first, I was disappointed that I had to pay 5 EUR admission for some ravine, but after the entry I did not regret it for a minute. Honestly, this gorge is even more interesting and dramatic than the famous Caminito del Rey (which I saw in Spain). A wild river modeled a deep rocky canyon. The dramatic image of the morning was amplified by the morning thunderstorm, so the water not only flowed in the river but was also dripping everywhere from the peaks of the rocks. I give my warmest compliments to the trail builders for what they have managed to create for tourists here.

The Partnach Gorge in rainy weather — *The Partnach Gorge is gorgeous*

Heavy rains are not fun

After this marvelous introduction, a long, and a bit boring period came with almost zero elevation meters. In order to not get too bored, nature prepared a heavy rain for us. At that moment we longed only after a hut, where we could hide and get some energy. But it occurred not earlier than after 10 long km… We came to the Bockhütte Hut completely soaked. The mood was improved as late as when we filled the tank in form of a local dark wheat beer. Simply perfect. I wish that brewers in Czech Republic and Sweden visited Bavaria and learned to brew this luxurious beer.

Simply amazing Weizenbier on the way to Zugspitze — *Simply amazing Weizenbier*

From this hut the nature started to vary more and get even more beautiful. The woods began to thin and we began to enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding peaks of the German Alps.

River in German Alps — *Our last break before ascend*

Clouds slowly getting lower in German Alps — *Clouds slowly getting lower*

The hike was getting more and more beautiful the higher we were getting but unfortunately it was also very long for Björn who lost all his energy. I helped him with his backpack for the last 5 km and we reached the Knorr hut under the Zugspitze in complete fog.

Recharging energy at Knorrhütte

We sat down in the restaurant and ordered a warm goulash soup and a beer. We refilled energy and started discussions about the upcoming day. Björn was obviously tired since he overestimated his hiking skills. Luckily, there was a solution. Now we were suddenly happy for the lifts around Zugspitze. Björn decided to take a shortcut the next day to the top by taking a cable car from Zugspitzplatt.

The next morning during sunrise it was still foggy, so we got on the road at 8 o´clock in the morning. After another 500 meters of elevation, the weather, unlike the previous day, was favorable, so I could take up a rocky path backed by a steel rope. I would compare this journey to the Tatra Mountains. Well-secured, no overexposed moments. I think there’s no need for belaying in nice weather.

Busy top of Zugspitze

Björn got to the top sooner of course and waited with two typical white sausages and wheat beers. Thanks, Björn for this tasty reward. The Bavarian kitchen – that´s something I love. However, the disadvantage of the Zugspitze peak showed too. And that is the cable car. Tourists who probably had been in the mountains for the first time took a lift to the summit.

According to their clothes, I’d rather think they were going to either a gala dinner or to a beach. They didn’t seem to understand that it was going to be cold at almost three thousand meters above sea level. They topped this smart behavior when they tried to get to the nearby summit, which can only be reached through a short, but interesting via ferrata. I just feared for some of the girls wearing high heels to fall from a few-hundred-meter-high cliff. Fortunately, my expectations were not confirmed, and so the ladies were nicely matching the fully equipped mountain climbers at the top cross.

Cross on the top of mountain Zugspitze — *Valuable moment – noone on the top of Zugspitze*

When I finally got through the crowd of tourists, I could enjoy a breathtaking view. The clouds had just spread out, and I got to see a deep valley with arguably the largest German glacier. However, the view did not last for a long time, and I was too slow to pick up my camera, so I just have this picture of dense milk covering Zugspitze.

*View over the end station of the cable car from the top of Zugspitze*

We decided not to walk down. We love our knees and the journey would take another 8 hours which would be tough for Björn. So, we decided to take the “enemy” cable car. The 33 EUR ticket hurt, but that´s life.

*View over Zugspitze from the start of the cable car*

My tips for the mountain Zugspitze:

Book your accommodation on the top of Zugspitze. If you do so you can enjoy precious time when there are no tourists on the top when the cable car is closed.
Try the via ferrata if it is nice weather. I am very sad I didn’t try it.
Best accommodation at starting point: Hotel Staudacherhof in Garmisch-Partenkirchen or hotel Eibsee nearby cable car to Zugspitze

Hiker enjoys view at sunset and mountain Triglav

April 28, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to prepare for climbing Slovenia’s highest peak Triglav

The mountain Triglav is very popular among Slovenians. Apart from the fact that the mountain itself is on the state flag, there is also an unwritten law that every Slovenian should climb the top at least once in a lifetime. I had respect of the mountain because I was unable to conquer it for the first time when I was 12 years old. This time I was much more prepared and climbing Triglav was one of the nicest experiences I ever had in the mountains. Follow this article for all necessary information you need before your visit including recommended routes, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Slovenia’s highest mountain

Short description of the ascent: Steep and long climb using via ferrata
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear + helmets + via ferrata equipment recommended
Best time to visit: June - September 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Best accommodation at starting point: Aljažev Dom or Multiple options in village Mojstrana, recommended Aparthotel Pr' Jakapč' with the best reviews
Starting point: Aljažev Dom 
Height of the peak: 2,864 m 
Hiking distance: 5,8 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Triglav: 5-8 hours up, 4-6 hours back
Recommended ascent in two days: DAY 1 - Aljažev Dom - Triglavski dom na Kredarici (via Tominškova pot); DAY 2: Triglavski dom na Kredarici - Triglav - Aljažev Dom (via Pot čez Prag)
Elevation climbed: 1,885 m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: Triglavski dom na Kredarici
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Union Black Unfiltered *** (6 stars maximum)

The best routes to Triglav

There are several routes leading to Triglav. Here is a list of them:

Tominškova pot and Pot čez Prag: You can choose the most popular routes from Aljažev dom, which can be managed via two different ferratas (Tominškova pot – a bit easier and Pot čez Prag – a bit harder) going up and down in one day. Two days are recommended though – see detailed tips in the description of these two routes below.
Via the valley of the seven Triglav lakes: Another option is to go to the top via the valley of the seven Triglav lakes. This route is a relatively long trek in one of the most beautiful European valleys.
Via the Krma valley: Another option to reach Triglav is through the Krma valley, which is considered to be a long but an easy ascent and with a minimum of people.

In this article, we will take a look at the most popular summer ascent to Triglav from Aljažev dom.

Map of the best route to Triglav and back

Equipment for climbing Triglav

When climbing Triglav from Aljažev dom, a helmet is a must. Since many mountaineers choose this way to the top, it is common to witness rock falls. Besides helmets, a via ferrata set is also recommended. I already had experience with climbing Triglav from my childhood, when rules and recommendations didn’t play as strong a role as they should have so we climbed Triglav without a via ferrata set. Nevertheless, I would never do it this way with my own children. Via ferrata equipment is strongly recommended to everyone who is afraid of heights and especially for children. The terrain is partly very exposed. I will return to my childhood experience later in the article.

My story of climbing Triglav with personal tips

Triglav was another moountain to reach within my project European Peaks during which I reached the highest point of every European country. I arived to the Slovenian city Jesenice after the successful summiting the mountain Zugspitze in Germany. I came by a night train at 5 a.m. so I was still very sleepy. That’s why I didn’t hesitate to unfold my sleeping mat on the ground at Jesenice train station. I was so glad I wasn’t the only weirdo. Two Spaniards joined me, so I had no regrets to spend another night as a homeless man.

Demanding Tominsek route to Triglav

My friend Mara arrived after a few hours, woke me up and we immediately moved with his car to the hut of Aljažev Dom, which is the best-known starting point for the mountain Triglav. Time to hike up to Triglav!

The hike began roughly immediately after the start. We chose the more demanding Tominsek route, which offers both a beautiful via ferrata and traverses across a steep slope.

Steep parts on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav — *Some parts are very steep on the via ferrata on the way to Triglav*

The nature of the Julian Alps still stayed in my memory. Many times during the hike I remembered my first visit. When I was twelve, my parents and their friends with their children decided to summit Triglav. However, they made a major mistake. They decided to ascend and descend Triglav in one single day.

Climbing Triglav in one day is stupid if you aren’t experienced

Why the rush? For less trained individuals (which they definitely were that time, sorry mum and dad) and especially for children, it can be a too big challenge. That time I only climbed up to the Kredarica Hut, where me and other kids waited for our parents to return from the summit of Triglav. Or better said if they’d come back at all. In my child’s eyes, I didn’t give it a big chance. The thunderclouds on the surrounding hills looked pretty scary. Fortunately, the parents probably knew what they were doing and successfully returned from the top of Triglav.

That’s why I and my friend Mara decided to divide the climb in two days. In the end, the opening ascent of 1,700 meters of altitude took us 4.5 hours and we were at the Kredarica Hut. There was no mountain spring water along the way, so we were very thirsty.

The cosy Kredarica Hut

The Kredarica Hut had a pleasant atmosphere. At each table tourists planned the climb for the following day while eating their dinner and drinking beer. Fortunately, it was forbidden to “kadit” at the table, as the signs on the wall showed (Slovenian word “kadit” means “to smoke” in English, in Czech it means “to shit”). Those who wanted to smoke had to go out (we were glad for that). I would say that the father of people of Slavic nations had made a lot of verbal puns from the mentioned languages.

Amazing sunset over Triglav

From the funny conversation with the locals, we were only disturbed by the sunset, which drew us out with its radiant golden color. And what a view it was! In the end, it turned out to be one of the most beautiful sunsets of my entire expedition. The clouds were flowing over the saddle and it created a beautiful show.

We really enjoyed this view. On the other hand, we were concerned about what kind of climb was waiting for us the following day. The initial part of the climb looked very steep. Is it possible to establish a safe route in such terrain? Mara even declared that he was not going anywhere the next day. To my remark that even my mom conquered the mountain he couldn’t give up though: “If your mom made it, I must do it too.”

Expect very steep climb before reaching Triglav — *Expect a very steep climb before reaching Triglav*

Final via ferrata to Triglav

After the sunset show, we went to bed so we could get up at 5 in the morning to climb to the top of Triglav and catch the sunrise from the summit.

The morning wake up was difficult, but it definitely paid off. We avoided the crowds of cheering tourists climbing to the top. On the way to Triglav, we did not meet a single tourist who would slow us down on the narrow via ferrata, or would even threaten us. The ascent to the summit was ideally timed for the sunrise. It was a real beauty from the summit. We could not wish for better weather and we had the whole of Slovenia under us. It was great visibility, so we could even see the distant Grossglockner in Austria.

The top of Triglav during spectacular sunrise — *The top of Triglav during a spectacular sunrise*

The way down took us half an hour longer than the ascent. The tourists started to form similar queues as I experienced earlier on Grossglockner. This time we didn’t mind though. The sun was shining, it was not cold, and the views were still breathtaking. When we returned to Kredarica Hut, the weather was perfect. To celebrate the ascent, we fell asleep on sunny benches for an hour.

Never ending descent

After a well-deserved nap, we headed back to the valley. For the descent we chose the second route this time – Cez Prag route. It was supposed to be less steep and therefore more gentle for the knees. However, it was very similar to the first route in my opinion. While descending I chose my favorite method – the quicker you go, the faster you will have it behind you, and I managed to run down the whole hill in 2h 45 minutes. I waited for my friend while having a refreshing beverage.

Relax at romantic Bled

Mara joined me in a while. After a quick snack, we headed to the renowned lake Bled to relax. We weren´t keen on waking up very early in the morning, but we did it in the end. The sunrise over lake Bled with its picturesque isle and the church in the middle sounded tempting. And it was worth it. A beautiful spectacle. I haven’t seen many more romantic places. I understand why Bled is a popular place for lovers. Around the lake we met more or less only couples in love holding each other´s hands. Pity that I was at Bled only with Mara and not my girlfriend that time.

Sunrise over the lake Bled — *Sunrise over lake Bled*

My tips for climbing the mountain Triglav:

Stay over in the Kredarica Hut. There is no hurry to climb Triglav in just one day. You will avoid afternoon storms which are very frequent during summer and you will be able to enjoy beautiful sunset from Kredarica.
Wake up very early for the summit day. You will avoid the crowds.
If you have an extra day, spend it around the lake Bled.
Best accommodation at starting point: Aljažev Dom or Multiple options in village Mojstrana, recommended Aparthotel Pr’ Jakapč’ with the best reviews

View at beautiful mountain Grossglockner

April 21, 2024 • 0 Comment

Climbing Grossglockner: A practical and personal guide to successful summit

Grossglockner is one of the toughest challenges of the whole European Peaks project. You have to cross a glacier on the way up and the last part is very exposed so securing with a rope is essential. Here all the necessary tips you need for your successful climb. Follow my tips and personal experience from my own climb to the highest point of Austria.

Important information for climbing Grossglockner

Short description of the ascent from Kals am Grossglockner: Demanding multi-day climb on both rock and glacier
Essential equipment: Full climbing and glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (avoid weekends; best September)
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Best accommodation at starting point: Gradonna Mountain Resort Chalets & Hotel in Kals am Großglockner with fantastic view
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Huts Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte and Stüdlhütte
Height of the peak: 3,798 m 
Distance to the top: 9.2 km (one way)
Time to ascend from Karl am Grossglockner and back: Typically 2 days (see recommended itinerary below)
Day 1: 5-7 hours to Erzerhog-Johann Hütte
Day 2: 1-3 hours to Grossglockner from Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte
Descend from Grossglockner back to parking lot: 3-5 hours
Elevation climbed (one way without acclimatization climb): 1,878 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Huts Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte and Stüdlhütte
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Edelweiss Dunkel ***** (6 stars maximum)

The best route to Grossglockner

The most common route to the summit of Grossglockner starts at Kals am Grossglockner and involves an overnight stay at the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. Here’s a general overview of the route:

1. Starting Point: Kals am Grossglockner is a village located in the Hohe Tauern National Park in Austria and serves as a common starting point for climbing Grossglockner. There is a parking lot where you can leave you car and start your hike.

2. Approach to Stüdlhütte: The route to Grossglockner usually involves a hike to the Stüdlhütte, a mountain hut situated at an elevation of approximately 2,800 meters. This hut serves perfectly as a spot for a lunch break.

3. Glacier from Stüdlhütte: The next part of the hike between Stüdlhütte and Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte involves passing a glacier. Therefore, it’s necessary to have proper equipment with you. The Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is a perfect place for an overnight stay before the final climb to Grossglockner the next morning.

4. Final climb to Grossglockner: The final climb is very steep directly from the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte. Knowing the route, proper climbing equipment and experience is necessary. If you lack experience or equipment a climbing guide is a must.

Map of the climb to Grossglockner

My story of climbing Grossglockner with practical tips

Grossglockner was another amazing mountain on my expedition European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country but it was probably the most challenging mountain for me. After my car accident in Scotland I was sure my expedition was over. I lost all my equipment and I was very depressed. It is difficult to describe the feeling but I was just lying on my bed with negative thoughts about what happened and what could happen. I didn’t have any motivation to do anything, felt hopeless and didn’t know what to do next. Should I just cancel my remaining holiday and go back to work? Should I stay at home for a bit to recover?

Amazing support from family and friends helped me to set out again

People around me couldn’t help me either. I had to make some decision myself. The problem was that I was not able to do that. I was so desperate that I visited a psychologist for the first time in my life. We had a long discussion and the psychologist found out that I actually deep inside wanted to continue and finish the remaining mountains. She found out the most important thing: I hate giving up.

As I said I didn’t even think about continuing after the accident because I was scared about failing and I didn’t want to let others down again. But it was true. I just didn’t want to give up. The meeting brought the right spark for my decision. I would do all my best to continue and to finish the expedition!

The highest mountain of Austria - Grossglockner — *Next mountain to reach – Grossglockner*

On one hand, it was a wise decision. I still had all the tickets booked and many friends were waiting for our appointed climbs. On the other hand: was it even possible? I didn’t have any equipment and almost no money. But I decided to give it a try. I posted on social media that I need help and what equipment I am looking for. The response was amazing. I managed to borrow and rent all the equipment I lost within just 24 hours. Only thanks to my amazing family and friends around me I regained the lost trust and I believed again I can make it. That assured me. I should get back to the mountains.

Climbing gear for Grossglockner — *Expedition equipment fixed in 24 hours*

Grossglockner is one of the most challenging mountains of the European Peaks project

I quickly packed all the new equipment and set out on the trip. Let’s climb Grossglockner! I met my friends Martin and Stefan in Austria and we continued together to the car park at Lucknerhaus. That’s where our two day climb started.

Looking stupid in my mum's sunglasses — *My mum even lent me her glasses (she has more or less the same diopter strength). I looked like an idiot but it worked. Let the journey begin.*

Description of the climb to Grossglockner

At the beginning it was a very easy hike with stunning views. We expected potential difficulties after the hut Städlhütte because there is the beginning of the glacier. However, finding the way was very easy thanks to great visibility. The glacier was quite dirty but at least there were no dangerous cracks. The traverse over the glacier took only about an hour. Then we only had a short via ferrata in front of us and we soon reached the hut Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte.

*Quickly melting glacier under Grossglockner*

Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is a very cosy place to stay. We had a great dinner there and even better beer. Unfortunately, we had no view because clouds arrived. Instead of having views over the fog, we rather went to bed on time. Next morning we had to wake up early.

Wrong weather forecast sent us into a freezing fog

The alarm clock rang at 4 am. Our plan was to catch the sunrise on the top of Austria. We started the climb in the darkness and a dense fog. Unfortunately, this was again a time when the forecast was completely wrong. Luckily, we were not the first ones climbing up so we could follow a path in the glacier. It took us about an hour to pass the glacier and then the true climbing began.

Unfortunately, it was still very foggy so the navigation was very difficult. This time there was even no path so it was even more difficult to find the correct way up. We got lost several times which meant an hour delay. Luckily, more and more people were showing up coming from the hut so it was subsequently easier to follow the correct route.

The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment on the way to Grossglockner — *The view opened up only for a very short but beautiful moment*

Due to the delay, we lost the opportunity to catch sunrise on the top but it didn’t really matter. The clouds were still occupying Grossglockner. At least, we were back on the correct route so the climb got easier.

Grossglockner needs traffic lights

Suddenly, the visibility improved a bit and we realized we are already on the final ridge. That time, the first climbers started to return from the summit as well. However, that was the beginning of our worst Grossglockner experience.

It was very exposed on the ridge and there were almost no places where you can pass a climber from the opposite direction. The queues started to form and they became very long in a short while. The administrators of the Grossglockner route should consider building traffic lights there. There were simply too many people. We had to wait sometimes even twenty minutes at a time. The rocks were covered with frost and the wind was getting stronger with every elevation meter. During such a long waiting time you will get cold. We started to freeze.

*Crazy queue on the way to Grossglockner*

Finally, the first 30 climbers overcame the narrow passage leading from the top and we could finally continue ascending. Our hands were frozen but the climb let us warm up. Luckily, the top was already not far. We soon spotted the cross on the top emerging from the clouds. In the end it took us three and half hours to reach the summit. Unfortunately, it was still cloudy so we had no view.

If you want to climb Grossglockner avoid summer weekends

On the way down, the situation from the way up repeated several times. Queues really ruined the overall experience of our climb. The worst were some irresponsible groups which refused to wait. Instead they were hurrying up and putting others in risky situations. Next time I would never climb Grossglockner during the weekend again.

After descending about 200 meters, finally the weather improved. The clouds disappeared and we finally had a wonderful view over the largest glacier in the eastern Alps – Pasterze. This view was certainly worth the effort.

View over the beautiful glacier Pasterze — *View over the glacier Pasterze*

Descending with recovered weather was much easier. We soon passed the cabin Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte and had a celebration lunch under the glacier at the Städlhütte. We made it. One of the toughest climbs managed despite bad weather!

Lastly, I would like to thank a lot my climbing partners Stefan and Martin for the best company and especially their climbing experience. Without you I would never get up to the peak!

View over Grossglockner - northern side — *View over Grossglockner – northern side*

View over Grossglockner - southern side — *View over Grossglockner – southern side*

My tips for the mountain Grossglockner:

Avoid climbing Grossglockner during weekends. The mountain is extremely busy. I suggest climbing it during autumn when the summer tourists disappear as well.
The climb is technically demanding. You need glacier experience as well as climbing experience. If you lack any of these two, don’t even try to climb the mountain on your own. Find an experienced climbing partner or a mountain guide.
Best accommodation at starting point: Gradonna Mountain Resort Chalets & Hotel in Kals am Großglockner with fantastic view

Strong northern lights in the snowy landscape of northern Sweden

April 17, 2024 • 0 Comment

Your ultimate guide for Kungsleden in winter

Do you know where you can experience one of Europe’s last true wildernesses? If you haven’t heard of the mythical Kungsleden (translated as the King’s Trail) in northern Sweden, read carefully. It’s a 470 km long trail from Hemavan to Abisko that leads through a beautiful unspoiled mountain landscape full of vast lakes, high mountains and deep valleys. The trail is very popular in summer, but you can experience the greatest adventure on Kungsleden in winter. My friend Rikki and I decided to explore the most interesting part of the trail, the 107 km journey from Abisko along Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise, to Nikkaluokta to see what this winter adventure entails.

Book a guided trip on Kungsleden in winter

Before you start reading about Kungsleden in winter, I have big news. Due to many reactions and big interests of this article, I decided to organize a trip from Abisko to Nikkaluokta on skis. It will be held from 3rd to 9th March 2025 and it will be amazing! You can look forward to fantastic skiing experience and northern lights. We will be two experienced guides taking care of you and the group will be max 12 people. Would you like to hear more? Send me an email to info@jardazaoral.com and I will give you detailed information. If you are available on 10th November at 18:00, Stockholm time, you can also join our Zoom call where I will be presenting the trip. We have a few spots left, so let me know as soon as possible if you would like to join us. But before that, read below my experience and tips.

How to get to Kungsleden?

Most visitors of Kungsleden start their journey in Abisko. The most convenient way to get there is to ﬂy to Stockholm Arlanda airport, and then take a direct overnight train right at the airport train station, which will take you to the starting point at the Abisko Turiststation stop. You will very likely meet other winter enthusiasts in the train and spend valuable time talking about upcoming adventures with them. The train offers comfortable beds so you can rest well before you wake up right at the start of the adventure.

Another and slightly quicker option is to ﬂy to Kiruna, Sweden via Stockholm Arlanda airport. From Kiruna you can take a bus and train to Abisko. However, I don’t recommend this option if you have a lot of equipment with you. Because of the multiple transfers, this option is less convenient.

The way back depends on where you ﬁnish your journey on Kungsleden. In our case, we ended up in Nikkaluokta, from where we took a bus to the station in Kiruna. From there we took again the overnight train to the airport in Stockholm.

Abisko National Park and its frozen river covered by snow — *The expedition starts in the beautiful Abisko National Park, where you can wander along the frozen river Abisko*

Where to sleep on Kungsleden in winter?

In winter, 99% of visitors stay overnight in local mountain huts, which can be found every 10 to 20 km along the way. You can ﬁnd a complete list of them on the Swedish Tourist Association’s (STF) website. These huts offer cozy accommodation that is usually simple but functional. For a fee of 500 SEK (in 2024 if you are a member of the STF) you get everything you need in this inhospitable and frozen landscape. If you’re planning on staying inside, it’s deﬁnitely recommended to become an STF member before your trip, as you’ll get signiﬁcant discounts at all the huts along the way. The huts offer all the essentials you need during your winter adventure:

Sleeping rooms: Huts offer shared sleeping rooms, usually in the form of dormitories. They are equipped with mattresses, duvets and pillows, but you have to bring your own bedding. I recommend a lightweight summer sleeping bag to ensure warmth and comfort.
Kitchen facilities: Basic cooking equipment such as cookers, pots, pans and utensils are available in the cottages so tourists can bring their own food and prepare it there.
Drinking water supply: The cottages have drinking water sources that visitors can use for drinking and cooking. However, water must be brought from a water source that may be up to a kilometre away. Housekeepers will show you how to get the water. It’s an exciting activity and it will be one of your favourite adventures on the trip.
Shop: Huts sell a basic range of food. Check the Swedish Tourist Board STF website in advance for the current offer.
Limited electricity and lighting: Be prepared for that there is no electricity in the cottages. You can charge your batteries only with your own power banks which are necessary for this trip. In the evening kerosene lamps and candles are used as sources of light.
Information: Some lodges have satellite internet access so visitors can get additional weather information, which is often crucial for planning the following days.
Toilets and sanitary facilities: There are dry toilets at the villages and saunas are used for washing. Before entering the sauna, you can wash yourself with warm water from barrels.

Aurora borealis over the huts in the Sámi village Abiskojaure — *Aurora borealis over the huts in the second stop Abiskojaure*

TIP FOR PEOPLE WHO PLAN TO SLEEP IN A TENT: You can also use the cabins even if you don’t want to stay overnight. For a fee of SEK 200 (per person per day in 2024) you can sleep in a tent next to the villages and use all the services listed above. This makes it a great alternative for adventurers who decide to go on Kungsleden with their own tent and sledge. This was also our case, and we were only going to use the huts for overnight stays in case of emergency or bad weather.

It worked out very well. In the end we managed to stay all nights outside but we sometimes took advantage of the facilities of local huts. They were very comfortable and cozy. It was very nice to warm up for a while and to make delicious food inside.

*Winter camping on Kungsleden is an unforgettable experience*

What is the best route for Kungsleden in winter?

In winter, the route is some kilometers shorter than in summer, because the lakes on Kungsleden are all covered in ice and snow. This is a nice advantage compared to summer but as you have to carry more equipment, the journey is much more demanding and therefore slower than in summer. We wanted to try the most popular and most beautiful part of Kungsleden so we set out for a trip from Abisko to Nikkaluokta. This is the most common itinerary:

Day 1: From Abisko to Abiskojaure: The ﬁrst day is a warm-up. You will only have 13 km to go with a gentle climb of around 100 elevation meters.
Day 2: From Abiskojaure to Alesjaure: The second day is the most challenging of the entire journey to Nikkaluokta. You have to prepare for a 20 km long trip and 400 elevation meters.
Day 3: From Alesjaure to Tjäktja hut: The third critical day is fortunately not that long. However, you have to prepare for a steeper climb of 300 elevation meters at the end. Look forward to this day because the Tjäktja hut offers fantastic views and perfect view to the north so you have an amazing chance to see northern lights from here.
Day 4: From Tjäktja to Sälka: Not far from the Tjäktja hut, you will reach the highest point of the whole trip – the Tjäktja Pass. Here you will be exactly halfway on the way from Abisko to Nikkaluokta. At the pass you can rest in an emergency shelter before the biggest descent of the whole trip. This is the only place of the whole trip where the descent is steep, so be careful when descending this 2 km downhill. The whole route from Tjäktja to Sälka is 13 km long and you will climb 150 m right at the start and then you can look forward to descending 350 m.
Day 5: From Sälka to Singi: The shortest day is only 12 km long, with 80 m of elevation gain and 190 m of descent. It is the easiest day of the whole trip so you can take it easy and take a longer relax in the beautiful valley where Singi lies. It’s good to have one short day in the itinerary because this day also serves as a reserve day in case it isn’t possible to move on any of the previous days due to tough weather conditions. Yes, it sometimes happens due to a storm. It can happen that you have to stay the whole day in a hut and then make a longer stretch and manage a trip from Tjäktja to Singi in one day for instance.
Day 6: From Singi to Kebnekaise fjällstation: This 15 km long route leads over a pass with a beautiful view and then through a deep valley to the foot of Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise. This is my favorite day of the whole journey as it offers fantastic views over the Kebnekaise massif.
Day 7: From Kebnekaise Fjällstation to Nikkaluokta: The last day is very long, ca 20 km and probably the least interesting. That’s why most tourists decide to shorten this route and pass it on snowmobiles to catch a bus from Nikkalookakta to Kiruna, which awkwardly runs only once a day at 12:00 sharp.

Tent in the valley under Kebnekaise and under northern lights at Kungsleden in winter — *Wonderful northern lights above our tent at a valley nearby Kebnekaise fjällstation*

You can see from the route description above that the whole route is mostly ﬂat or with just a small up/downhill. However, if you carry a lot of equipment, you will feel the 300 meters of altitude in your body. We deﬁnitely did!

If you’re planning to travel with a tent, you have a slight advantage. You are much more ﬂexible and can adjust your daily mileage depending on how you feel. In fact, you are allowed to camp anywhere in Sweden as long as you set a tent at least 150 m from a household. The only exception is national parks so be careful with planning your first two days. During these you will be hiking in Abisko National Park and you are only allowed to camp in designated areas, namely right next to the Abisko STF hut in Abiskojaure and at a designated camping site called Nissonjokk. Nissonjokk is the only place out of these three where you don’t have to pay for the tenting spot (in Abisko and in Abiskojaure, it costs 200 SEK to tent and you can use the facilities).

When is the best time to visit Kungsleden in winter?

Compared to the the rest of Europe, the winter season in northern Sweden starts much later. This is due to the short days in December and January and the extremely cold weather then. In 2024, the local huts were open between 16/2 and 21/4. Which date to choose? My recommendation is the end of March.

At the end of March temperatures tend to be more comfortable than in the second half of February or during early March and the days are already long enough to manage your daily trips. The end of March is also great when it comes to the chance of seeing the Northern Lights. On the contrary, April nights are already short so there is smaller chance of seeing the Northern Lights and you don’t want to miss them. It’s one of the biggest attractions of a every Kungsleden trip. If you want to know more about northern lights, check out my article Practical Guide to see Northern Lights.

Climb from Abiskojaure to Alesjaure rewards you with beautiful views — *The longest climb from Abiskojaure to Alesjaure rewards you with beautiful views*

Weather on Kungsleden in winter

In winter, the weather on Kungsleden can be very harsh and unpredictable, which is why this route requires thorough preparation and proper equipment. Be prepared for very low temperatures. In winter, temperatures on the Kungsleden can be well below freezing. Temperatures below -10°C or even -20°C are not at all unusual.

However, the low temperatures aren’t the biggest challenge on Kungsleden. Severe cold weather is manageable. Do you know what is important to be careful about? Strong winds and gales. They are very frequent on Kungsleden and they dramatically reduce the “feels like” temperature.

Another thing to watch out for is avalanches. Heavy snowfall and wind can also cause avalanche danger. Most of the King’s Trail is off avalanche terrain, but be sure to check with local huts for current avalanche conditions.

It might sound like I would like to scare you off coming to Kungsleden in this paragraph but I didn’t mean it. There are also beautiful sunny days on Kungsleden during which you can enjoy views of the amazing Scandinavian landscapse. Be ready also for this weather and don’t forget sun cream and proper sunglasses.

To summarise the weather on Kungsleden, you need be prepared for both sunny weather and extremely cold conditions. The weather can change quickly on Kungsleden, so be prepared for variable conditions. Check the weather at each station before your every day adventure and be prepared for anything.

*Frozen author of this article sends greetings to his readers from Tjäktja pass*

What is better? Snowshoes or skis on King’s Trail in winter?

As you probably guess, there is a lot of snow on Kungsleden in winter, so it isn’t possible to set out on such adventure in common hiking shoes. Instead, you need to consider whether to bring snowshoes or skis. My girlfriend and I tested part of the Kungsleden on snowshoes in the past and it wasn’t a bad choice. However, we were in the vast minority using snowshoes and we were much slower than skis. In fact, only foreign visitors use snowshoes.

This time we tested Kungsleden on skis as 99% of the locals do, and we quickly understood why locals don’t use snowshoes. Skis are much faster and comfortable and you can also enjoy the downhills. Snowshoes are better in very steep terrains but it isn’t the case of Kungsleden. You don’t have to worry about challenging up/downhills here. Most of the trail is ﬂat and you’ll only have to pass gentle ascents and descents.

Kungsleden in winter with beautiful view of Sweden't highest point Kebnekaise — *Kungsleden in winter also offered us a beautiful view of Sweden’t highest point Kebnekaise – the highest peak behind us*

Equipment on winter King’s Trail

For a winter expedition beyond the Arctic Circle, proper equipment is necessary. To enjoy Kungsleden and to feel comfortable, it’s necessary to have especially warm clothing. My recommendation is to have several layers ready and you adjust these according to the current temperature. We had moments on our trip when it was sunny and windless with temperatures just below freezing. During these times we were ascending in just T-shirts. On the other hand, we experienced conditions with strong headwinds the following day, when the temperature also dropped by twenty degrees. In such conditions I used two down jackets and several layers underneath. I know I repeat myself but be ready for various weather conditions.

Skier and his sledge on Kungsleden in winter — *Here you can see a skier and his full equipment in a sledge in one picture*

Best experiences and secret tips for winter Kungsleden

Since we wanted to experience winter Kungsleden with carrying our own tent and sleeping outside in the wilderness, we definitely didn’t have a shortage of experiences. Here are the ones which we will never forget and wish you could experience too:

107 km and 107 kg: There is a scale at the starting point at the STF hut in Abisko where both summer and winter hikers/skiers weigh their backpacks or other luggage before setting off. My friend Rikki and I measured 107 kg. A fateful number! That’s exactly how many kilometers we were going to cover on the trip to Nikkaluokta. Will we manage to carry over 50 kg on every sledge? Fortunately, we could say at the end of Kungsleden: Yes! Thanks to the sledge that glides smoothly over the snow, it isn’t as tough as it may seem! If you plan to bring a lot of gear, deﬁnitely rent a sledge at Abisko STF hut. But beware of the necessary reservations! You have to book a sledge a long time in advance. In 2024, the sledges were already booked six months in advance.
Aurora Borealis: We were lucky and managed to see Northern Lights every other day. It’s indescribable beauty. To see a strong aurora, I summarize all necessary tips in this aurora guide.
Sauna: The saunas are deﬁnitely the most pleasant bonus of the local huts. You will never forget jumping into a frozen lake or into the snow in -20 degrees after a few minutes in a hot sauna. Just be aware that not all of the huts offer a sauna experience. You will find a sauna in all the huts except Tjäktja and Singi.
Extreme conditions in Tjäktja Pass: The timing of strong winds couldn’t be worse on our journey. The windiest day was forecasted for the highest point of the journey in the Tjäktja Pass. We had to get up at 4 am to avoid the strongest winds, which were expected around noon. How it paid off! We had harsh conditions anyway as we were hit by such strong winds that icicles were being formed in our beards. But we managed to conquer the Tjäktja pass. Be sure to watch the forecast ahead and adjust your wake-up call accordingly to avoid the strongest winds. Some other expeditions didn’t obey the forecast and didn’t make it via Tjäktja pass and had to stay one more day at Tjäktja.
Photography: if you are a keen photographer, you will love winter Kungsleden. There is wonderful scenery every day and it’s fascinating to photograph the changeable weather. But don’t forget to bring spare batteries and power banks. Unfortunately, there is no place on the way where you can charge your batteries. You can charge everything as soon as you reach Kebnekaise fjällstation.

Beautiful landscape during sunrise of Kungsleden in winter — *Beautiful landscapes and views will accompany you on the whole journey*

Book a guided tour from Abisko to Nikkaluokta

Would you like to experience Kungsleden in winter and don’t have enough experience? I’m planning to organize a guided tour from Abisko to Nikkaluokta next year at the end of March! We will be doing the trip on skis with overnight stays in all the huts on the way. It will be held from 3rd to 9th March 2025. Would you like to hear more about this adventure? Send me an email to info@jardazaoral.com and I will give you detailed information. If you are available on 10th November at 18:00, Stockholm time, you can also join a Zoom meeting where I will be presenting the trip.

Man on top of Swedish highest mountain Kebnekaise

February 18, 2024 • 0 Comment

Practical and personal tips to climbing Swedish highest peak Kebnekaise

Sweden’s highest mountain Kebnekaise is unique in the community of the highest peaks of European countries. It is the most remote peak from civilization compared to any other European country’s high point. Since the shortest route from civilization to the summit is 25.5 kilometers long (one way), it can hardly be reached within one day. The easiest way to Kebnekaise is from the village Nikkaluokta and the return trip usually takes three days. In this article, you can read everything you need to know before your own visit of Kebnekaise including practical information, a map and my own experience. Here we go!

Important information for climbing Kebnekaise south

Short description of the ascent: Multiple day hiking and crampons needed at the end of the hike
Essential equipment: Crampons, hiking poles
Best time to visit: July - September or April for winter climb
Fees or restrictions: No but guide strongly recommended on the Eastern route
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Kebnekaise fjällstation
Best accommodation at starting points: Cosy huts at Enoks i Láddjujávri in Nikkaluokta or STF Abisko Turiststation
Height of the peak: 2,096 m 
Hiking distance DAY 1 and DAY 3: 18.6 km (one way)
Hiking distance DAY 2 - Summit day: 8.5 km (one way) 
Time to hike from Kebnekaise fjällstation to Kebnekaise Sydtopp: 4-6 hours up, 2-4 hours down
Time to hike from Kebnekaise fjällstation to Nikkaluokta: 5 hours (one way) 
Elevation climbed: 1,599 m (Day 2 - Summit day)
Elevation climbed: 312 m (Day 1) 
Water availability on the mountain: Plenty of water sources from rivers up to 1,150 m
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Poppels Wit **** (6 stars maximum)

What is the highest peak of Sweden?

Why do I ask such a weird question when I already introduced the name Kebnekaise in the paragraph above? The problem is that Kebnekaise has two peaks – a southern and a northern one. In between, there is a steep ridge. My girlfriend and I climbed the southern peak of Kebnekaise which has always been the highest one. However, global warming is making a change. In 2018 the northern peak became the highest point for the first time in history. The unusual heat in the north of Sweden in recent years caused serious melting of the glacier on the southern peak. I expected I will have to climb the northern peak within my European Peaks project but it got even more complicated. When we were getting soaked by rain every day in the valley (read the story below), it was constantly snowing on Kebnekaise.

According to the local guides at Kebnekaise Fjällstation, it caused an incredible rise of the Southern peak of Kebnekaise by 10 meters! That meant that it became the highest again. I did not believe the number myself, but when I compared my photographs with those taken there in the summer, there was a huge difference. And I was glad. Looking at the steep ridge I didn’t feel like going to the northern peak. In these icy conditions it didn’t look safe at all. It was very windy and slippery at the top and proper climbing equipment including ropes and an ice axe would be necessary.

Ice axe on top of Kebnekaise during sunrise with fantastic view — *Picture taken from Kebnekaise south. You can see Kebnekaise north in the distance*.

The height of the Southern peak of Kebnekaise is changing dramatically every year so if you want to climb the real highest peak of Sweden, ask at Kebnekaise fjällstation which one is the highest at the moment before your summit push. Or just climb both to make sure you made it!

Below, I will be describing routes to the Kebnekaise south which is climbed most often by visitors. If you would like to climb the Northern peak, climbing experience is necessary as well as proper equipment including an ice axe, ropes and helmets.

Which route is the best to reach Kebnekaise?

There are two popular routes to the top of Kebnekaise. Both of them start at Kebnekaise Fjällstation which travelers usually use as a base camp before the summit. The Western Route (Västra Leden in Swedish) is the most popular way to reach the top. It starts with a steep hike up the mountain Vierranvári. Then, it continues down for ca 200 m to the foot of Kebnekaise. From there, it is again a steep hike up to the top. The route is well-marked and maintained, no scrambling is necessary but it is still a challenging climb that should only be attempted by experienced hikers. The last part of the hike is covered by a glacier which can be very slippery. Crampons are necessary there. Once you are at the top, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Below you can find a map from Nikkaluokta to the summit (one way).

The Eastern Route is more difficult than the Western Route, as it involves passing a glacier and a steep climb up a rocky slope to reach the summit. The climb requires proper equipment and experience, as you might have to pass some glacier crevasses and the rocks can be slippery and dangerous. Due to safety, most travelers choose to take a guide on this route. Below you can find a map from Kabnekaise Fjästation to the summit (one way).

How to get to Kebnekaise fjällstation (the base camp)?

The most common and popular way to Kebnekaise fjällstation is to hike from Nikkaluokta. It takes ca 5 hours and it’s the best option if your schedule is tight (see the first map above). However, if you have more time, I highly recommend to extend your experience of the Swedish wilderness and enjoy a part of the famous Kungsleden trail which starts at the village Abisko. The distance between Abisko and Kebnekaise fjällstation is 86.8 km and it usually takes 4-5 days to hike it. See the map below with tips where you can stay over on the way. You can stay both in huts or bring your our tent like we did.

Below you can find my story of climbing Kebnekaise. There, you can find more thorough information. I made it with my girlfriend all the way from Abisko to Nikkaluokta via Kebnekaise. If you are interested only in climbing Kebnekaise via the shortest way from Nikkaluokta, scroll down and skip my Kungsleden description.

My story of climbing Kebnekaise

This climb of Kebnekaise was a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest point of every European country in a year. Since I had already climbed Kebnekaise four years ago via the regular route “Nikkaluokta – Kebnekaise Fjällstation – Kebnekaise and back” I decided to set out this time for a seven day hike Abisko – Kebnekaise – Nikkaluokta, which meant a seven-day trip through the Swedish wilderness.

Train arrived to Abisko from Narvik — *Our train from Narvik to Abisko and lots of gear to be repacked*

After climbing Halti, the highest point of Finland, my girlfriend and I took the train from Norway to a small Swedish Lapland village called Abisko. There we had to say goodbye to civilization. During the next week we were supposed to be without mobile phone signal on the most interesting part of the famous Swedish hiking trail Kungsleden. We will experience 130 km of hiking.

Packing for Kungsleden — *Packing for one week. The majority is food*

We bought the last food supplies in Abisko, packed our backpacks thoroughly and approached the scale where all pilgrims stop before heading to the Kungsleden trail. My backpack showed a weight of 26 kilograms. Joanne had a backpack weighing six kilos less. The difference was photo equipment (which became lighter after the Scottish accident – my back will thank me). Since we had nothing more to get rid of we set out on the road.

Sunrise at Kungsleden, Abiskojaure — *The first sunrise of our hike on a freezing morning*

The first five days on Kungsleden trail brought us a lot of experiences. I can summarize them in just seven words: valleys, mountains, rain, lakes, sauna, reindeer and blisters. The hike had it all. A description of the hike would take at least a few more articles so I will just summarize them by a few sentences from my diary:

Kungsleden hike

DAY 1: 2 km
… The sun is shining. We are enjoying the first kilometers on our way along the wild river Abiskojåkka. What a beauty…

DAY 1: 15 km
… The sun is setting. The last mosquitoes of this summer have left their shelters to cheerfully attack the last tourists coming to the first Lapland settlement. My back also hurts. Why did I bring that huge 3 kg lens with me?

DAY 2: 15 km
… Morning cold wakes me up. I want to get out of the tent, but the zipper is frozen. At night the temperature dropped by more than 15 degrees. After I finally managed to open the tent I see a wonderful show. The sun is just rising above a mist above a waveless lake..

DAY 3: 38 km

… We walk through a beautiful deep valley. My back got used to the heavy backpack, so instead of complaining I enjoy the landscape. Along the way I collect and eat the so-called gold of the north – cloudberry. I have never eaten such sweet fruit. Delicasy. On the way we will meet several reindeer…

DAY 3: 49 km

… We walk through another incredibly long valley. Haven’t we already gone through this one? My legs are getting tired and a strong wind blows from the mountains. It brings dark clouds and it starts to rain. It is tough with my heavy backpack. We stop at the first cottage in another Lapland village. But it is full. “You can’t stay,” we are told. The next village is 10 kilometers away…

DAY 3: 59 km

… We are slow. Joanne and I are low-spirited. It’s raining cats and dogs. After two endless hours in heavy rain we reach our destination. We knock the door of the village commander: “Can we stay here for tonight, please?” – “I am sorry. It’s full. The only option is to sleep on the ground,” we hear. We lie down in the corner of the room on a borrowed mattress where dogs usually sleep. But we are finally getting dry…

DAY 4: 62 km
… It is pouring again. Why? What have we done wrong? Why are we punished?

DAY 4: 82 km
… Sauna! There is a sauna in the next village. We don’t hesitate a minute and go there to warm up. Inside, a master is already waiting. Of course, there is no electricity in these Sámi villages so the sauna is heated by wood. It smells really good and the master heats the sauna above hundred degrees. We talk with other hikers about the last days on the trail. The conversation is interrupted by several jumps into a glacial lake. Incredible regeneration and body relaxation…

DAY 5: 105 km
… We passed several waterfalls and walked around steep hills. The weather is beautiful. It is unbelievable how fast a hiking nightmare can turn into an amazing trip. This part of Kungsleden is most beautiful. Soon we see Kebnekaise Fjällstation, the base camp from where we will head to Sweden’s highest point – Kebnekaise the following day…

Rainy day on Kungsleden — *Another rainy day on Kungsleden*

Time to climb Kebnekaise

We set up our tent nearby Kebnekaise Fjällstation when my phone suddenly started vibrating in my pocket. Finally a signal. Welcome back to civilization! After such a long time without a cell phone it was a great feeling. I felt ashamed of how happy I was. We had a beautiful view from our tent but ignored it for a while. Time to let our family and friends know that we are alive. Besides this, we could also check the current weather forecast. It seemed that the bad luck of the last days turned around. The next day was supposed to be a wonderful sunny day. Ideal for our climb of Kebnekaise.

Tenting on Kungsleden — *Joanne and I tenting on Kungsleden*

Finally time to climb Kebnekaise

We decided to get up at midnight to reach the summit at sunrise via the western route (the eastern route requires glacier equipment). The alarm was annoying but the view of the northern lights was worth it. We took a short breakfast and started to hike towards Kebnekaise. After the first three kilometers in the valley the path became steeper. In another half an hour we crossed a river and continued on the path recently built by sherpas. A much more pleasant accent than four years ago on rocky terrain.

The Sherpa steps led as far as to the peak of Vierranvárri (1,711 m). It meant that we are only 300 elevation meters from Kebnekaise. However, there was one more valley between Vierranvárri and Kebnekaise. It meant an additional 200 meters down and up.

Dawn at Vierranvárri on the way to Kebnekaise — *Dawn at Vierranvárri*

Finally the last climb began. At 1,700 m we crossed the snow line and in a moment the landscape turned completely white. In a few minutes we ascended from autumn to winter! Meanwhile, the sun started to rise and lit the mountains around us with a beautiful pink-red light. Amazing scenery.

Sunrise on the way to Kebnekaise — *Passing the snow line*

The final 30 meters were very steep and covered by ice, so we put the crampons on. We continued with them smoothly and were on the top in a minute. We admired the snow-capped mountains and the beginning of the red autumn in the valleys. Fog has formed over the lake between Nikkaluokta and Kebnekaise Fjällstation. Beautiful.

Kebnekaise Sydtoppen - the highest or second highest peak of Sweden? — *Kebnekaise Sydtoppen – the highest or second highest peak of Sweden?*

If you are exhausted, take a helicopter (warning: pictures of nasty blisters below)

The next day we woke up very tired but there was still the last 19 kilometers to reach the village of Nikkaluokta. We would overcome that we were tired, but Joanne had seriously growing blisters, a result of too tight hiking shoes. They looked very unhealthy. She probably got an infection. “Joanne, do you want to fly back to civilization by helicopter?”

I asked it seriously. Many lazy tourists shorten their way to the top of Kebnekaise and back with a helicopter, and a big demand for this mode of transport made the flight affordable. The flight is relatively cheap compared to other Swedish services (it “only” costs 800 SEK per person; in comparison a night at Kebnekaise Fjällstation costs 1240 SEK – prices in 2018). If you sleep in a tent you can use the saved money for the helicopter.

Big blisters on heels after tough hike — *If you don’t want blisters like this, Joanne recommends bringing large enough hiking shoes*

But my girlfriend refused my offer, “I have done over a hundred kilometers. I want to walk the last nineteen.” It was the toughest part of the whole hike because of the blisters but Joanne managed it well. We arrived to Nikkaluokta after four hours, hitchhiked to Kiruna, and the end of our seven days hike was only pleasant. We ordered a delicious pizza with reindeer meat and watched aurora borealis out of our window at cosy SPiS Hotel where we also got magnificent breakfast with typical buffé full of Swedish food including salmon or meatballs.

My tips for climbing the mountain Kebnekaise:

If you have time, take the seven-day hike from Abisko via Kungsleden to the Kebnekaise Fjällstation and return to civilization via the village of Nikkaluokta after climbing Kebnekaise. It is an amazing experience. On the way do not forget the sauna.
Best accommodation at starting points: Cosy huts at Enoks i Láddjujávri in Nikkaluokta or STF Abisko Turiststation
If you have experience with glaciers, take the eastern route to the summit. You will shorten the hike and avoid significant elevation. Without glacier experience, a guide is mandatory. It is possible to book one beforehand.
Do not stay overnight at the Kebnekaise Fjällstation. It is overpriced and overcrowded. Bring your tent with you.

Climber in front of mountain Hvannadalshnúkur

February 4, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to successfully climb the highest peak of Iceland – Hvannadalshnúkur

The land of fire and ice is hiding one of the most demanding ascents of the project European Peaks. Its highest mountain Hvannadalshnúkur is an inactive volcano covered by Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull and its summit is not only very physically demanding but also very unpredictable when it comes to weather. Strong winds and blizzards are common there even in summer. In this article you can find all tips you need to know before your climb to Iceland’s highest mountain including my own personal experience and you will also get a tip for a guiding company.

Important information for climbing Hvannadalshnúkur

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on glacier, glacier experience necessary, difficult navigation
Essential equipment: Touring skis/snowshoes/crampons, hiking poles; full glacier equipment 
Best time to visit: April - June
Fees or restrictions: No but guide strongly recommended
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Skaftafell
Starting point: Parking lot Sandfell (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2,110 m
Ski touring/hiking distance: 11.5 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Hvannadalshnúkur: 7 hours 30 minutes up, 4 hours down
Elevation climbed: 2,066 m 
Water availability on the mountain: No but you can melt snow or ice from the glacier
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Víking Rökkr **** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the route to Hvannadalshnúkur

The climb of Hvannadalshnúkur has four parts. Up to about 1,000 m above sea level there is a rocky section with a path to follow. Then you will enter the glacier on which you will climb to the altitude of about 1,800 m above sea level. There will be waiting a large plateau. Do not walk the shortest possible route to the peak over the plateau. There is the largest risk of falling into cracks. Instead, follow the peak on a curve, do not go straight (see the map below). At the end there is a steep final section to the peak (ca 300 elevation meters).

Map of the route to Hvannadalshnúkur

My story of climbing Hvannadalshnúkur

I climbed Hvannadalshnúkur as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. After winter ascents in Andorra and Norway I was facing an even bigger winter challenge. The majestic mountain Hvannadalshnúkur is both beautiful and demanding and it became one of the highlights of the expedition. To reach the summit the majority of your climb will be on a glacier where you are in danger of falling into cracks and you have to get ready for hostile weather. Blizzards and strong winds are common here even during summer.

Two climbers under Hvannadalshnúkur — *Jakub and I under Hvannadalshnúkur. Will we manage to climb it?*

I had a big respect for this mountain so I wanted to book a mountain guide (which I strongly recommend to you too if you want to summit this amazing mountain). This company has years of experience in climbing Hvannadalshnúkur and it will ensure your safe summit. However, the circumstances changed. No guide was available on my summit day so I decided to climb the mountain only with my friend Jakub.

Proper preparation is the key

Because Jakub and I wanted to climb Hvannadalshnúkur at the beginning of the climbing season, early April, planning was the most important success factor. In Iceland there were still winter conditions, and climbing in bad weather would mean gambling with our lives. We planned to stay in Iceland the whole week with the hope that one of the seven days will be suitable for the climb.

A farm under Hvannadalshnúkur — *Hvannadalshnúkur in all its beauty*

Before we arrived in Iceland, we closely monitored the weather forecast. That was very changeable. It seemed that predicting Icelandic weather was like throwing a dice. Completely random in the long term. Therefore, I was looking for Icelandic climbers on Facebook to ask how to prepare for our climb and where to watch the weather. I got answers from three climbers who had already climbed the highest mountain of Iceland. We got these recommendations:

Check the weather forecast at this Icelandic website: en.vedur.is.
Be careful when climbing over the glacier. It is necessary to be tied on a rope and to be very careful. The glacier is safe in winter if you follow the recommended GPS route exactly.
GPS is important to not to get lost. Don’t forget an extra battery/ powerbank.
Register your climb at safetravel.is, so local authorities know about your venture.

Weather lottery

Based on the weather forecast we decided to climb Hvannadalshnúkur right after our arrival to Iceland. The forecast looked amazing. Sunny the whole day, just a strong wind in the morning. I contacted local mountain guides who perform regular ascents. However, I was told that the ascent was canceled due to bad weather. “Too windy,” they said. The climb was supposed to move to the next day, but we didn’t like that at all. It was supposed to blow less, but it was supposed to be cloudy with snowfall. There was no other summit day before our flight back to Stockholm so we decided to climb the mountain on our own.

In Reykjavik we rented climbing equipment and managed to get harnesses, crampons, a rope and hiking poles. According to the rental company and local climbers, this should be enough for us in the current conditions. According to them, the main risk – glacial cracks – is safely covered with snow from the whole winter during this time of the year.

First day in the winter wonderland

Then we rented a car and headed towards the starting point of the climb – Sandfell. The trip usually takes four hours. We left Reykjavik and took the Highway 1 (also called Ring Road) to the southwest. The 90 km/h reduction was annoying, but we soon understood why there is such speed limit. It started to blow like crazy, temperatures dropping below zero, and snow was blowing from the mountains. The visibility was suddenly only a few meters. Blizzard. We were glad we could drive at speed of 30 km/h.

The journey was longer than we expected. We arrived late at night to a village called Vík. Due to the high rocks there was a significantly weaker wind than elsewhere on the road, so we decided to stay there overnight. We hoped not to find ourselves lost in snow the following morning. We spent the night in the trunk of our rented Subaru Forester and it was surprisingly comfortable.

Plane wreck in Iceland — *Nearby Vík you can also find the famous plane wreck*

We woke up to see the sunrise on Vík’s beach and the view promptly forced us to leave the car to see the beauty. The black sand beach together with cliffs around was perhaps the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. But the harsh Icelandic climate was showing us its strength. It was so windy that we took just a few pictures and headed back to our car.

Too windy on Hvannadalshnúkur

We decided to continue towards Hvannadalshnúkur. As we drove out of the village Vík, the wind doubled in strength. It was even stronger than the previous day while bringing even more snow. We realized what white darkness looks like. We couldn’t see further than two meters. At that moment we were very glad that we did not borrow a smaller car, which would certainly not handle this furious weather.

There was no rush. We continued very slowly but we still managed to reach the Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull pretty early in the morning. We saw Hvannadalshnúkur for the first time. Unfortunately, it was immediately clear why the guides canceled the climb. Even though the sky was clear, the wind was blowing so hard that it created snow clouds on the mountain. We realized that we wouldn’t see anything during our summit. At that moment we were sure: today we won’t climb anything.

Hvannadalshnúkur seen from the road during crazy wind conditions — *The first view over Hvannadalshnúkur and crazy wind on the road*

We drove to the village Skaftafell which offers perfect accommodation for climbing Hvannadalshnúkur since it’s affordable and closest to the starting point. We ate breakfast and thought about what to do next. Will we take some warming up hike and will we follow the climbing company tomorrow in cloudy and snowy weather? During the breakfast however, the wind miraculously calmed down, not only in the lowlands, but also in the mountains. It was nine o’clock in the morning, which is still relatively late to climb Hvannadalshnúkur, but the sun is already quite high at the beginning of April and sets as late as at half past eight in the evening. ‘What if we try to climb? We have more or less 12 hours until it gets dark. We’ll return if it feels dangerous.”

Perfect weather conditions

After a brief discussion, we decided to go for it. We packed food, water, tea, all necessary climbing equipment and power banks in case our phones run out of battery and of course headlights. We registered ourselves on safetravel.is in case we would need help and started our ascent. In a few minutes I got a message from safetravel.is : “Do you have complete glacier equipment? Do you have experience with alpine and glacier tourism? During this time of year the climb is very challenging.”

We were very pleased that the local authorities were so interested in tourists and wanted to ensure our safety in the mountains. We reported an expected return time at 23 o’clock. If we don’t report two hours after, the organization would send a search. We left the parking lot Sandfell at 11 am. I guess it was the latest leaving time to climb Hvannadalshnúkur of all previous April climbers.

Hiking in Iceland in April — *The first part of the climb was easy. It led on rocks*

The wind completely left the mountains so we could climb only in T-shirts. We quickly ran up the first 1,000 altitude meters across stony and snowy terrain. In this part it was easy to find the way. After about two hours we reached the glacier. It looked clean and without cracks. We were relieved. Time to put crampons on, tie ourselves to the rope and climb up.

Climbing on the glacier

We climbed the glacier more slowly. I often checked the terrain in front of us to make sure there are no cracks. I also checked the GPS regularly to see if we were going in the correct direction. We climbed slowly but steadily up. We expected to reach the plateau several times but there were several endless horizons ahead.

Glacier on the way to Hvannadalshnúkur — *Hopefully, the last horizon ahead*

We came across one crack. Luckily it was narrow and well visible so we easily overcame it. It was interesting to look for cracks. It reminded me of skating on thin ice, which I do with a local Stockholm skating club at the beginning of the skating season in autumn. The thickness of the ice often changes, so every skater must have a stick with a sharp end to examine the thickness of the ice. Here it was similar. I tested regularly to see if there was a crack below blown snow.

The large plateau under summit with glacier under Hvannadalshnúkur — *The large plateau under summit*

At around 6 pm we finally reached the plateau below the summit. “The summit is near now” I encouraged my friend Jakub but I saw that it would still be quite a hike to the top. We followed the Icelandic climber’s instruction and didn’t follow the shortest route to the summit. Instead, go along the contour line around. You will avoid a great risk.

Sunset on top of Hvannadalshnúkur

We continued even more cautiously than before. I checked the surface in front of us before every step. We encountered two more cracks. Both weren’t well visible. After another hour we got to the final climb. The sun was slowly setting which we expected. We knew we would be going down in the dark. The last climb was steep, but could be handled without an ice axe. We passed the beautiful snow-covered rocks and reached the summit. We did it!

Selfie on top of Hvannadalshnúkur — *On top of Iceland*

The wind was blowing on top so it quickly became really cold but the gorgeous view of the setting sun over the cloud-covered valley and ocean behind warmed us up. Indescribable scenery.

The view from the peak Hvannadalshnúkur is amazing — *The view from the peak is amazing*

We knew we were only half way. The descent would still be very difficult so we spent only a few minutes on the top and headed back. We knew it would be dark in about an hour and a half, so we tried to get back to the plateau as quickly as possible so that we would pass as much of the glacier as possible before it got dark. Thanks to the perfect weather conditions our traces remained visible. We didn’t have to look for a new path, so we could go back much faster. Indeed, the Icelandic forecast was correct.

Descent in the shine of northern lights

We managed to pass the plateau before it got dark. Then we had to slow down but it was still easy to follow our steps with our headlights. After two and a half hours we came back from the glacier to the rocks. The toughest and most dangerous part was behind us.

Northern lights in Iceland — *Northern lights on the way down*

We expected the rest of the hike to be easy but we ended up in a crisis. Clouds occurred and the navigation got much more complicated. We couldn’t even see our traces anymore and we got lost several times. Our legs were in pain and we were tired so we decided for a break.

Icelandic dried fish with bread and a bit of tea gave us new energy so we could continue. We walked down in darkness and a bad mood when the sky suddenly cleared up and we saw northern lights. The aurora was so strong that it illuminated the path we wanted to follow. Suddenly we could easily see where to go. Thanks to the aurora we managed to get back safely to the car. After our arrival we texted safetravel.is that we are safe and went to sleep. We fell asleep within a minute.

One week road trip around Iceland

In the morning we were woken up by a group of tourists led by a mountain guide at six o’clock in the morning. It was cloudy and snowy. It was certain that even if the climbers managed to climb Hvannadalshnúkur, they would not see anything. On the other hand, I must admit that we took a risk. If one of us fell into a glacial crack, we would have a big problem. We didn’t have any equipment to rescue each other from a glacier crack. Climbing Hvannadalshnúkur with only two people and without glacier equipment is definitely not an exemplary approach. Based on my experience I definitely recommend to climb the mountain only with an experienced local mountain guide.

Hot springs in Iceland — *Well deserved relax after the summit day*

Anyway the goal of our Icelandic expedition was managed on the first day of our visit and we still had six days on Iceland. Time to explore the island. What was the first stop? Hot springs and relaxation. Are you staying in Iceland longer? Check out my 10 day itinerary for exploring Ring Road Iceland.

My tips for climbing the mountain Hvannadalshnúkur:

I highly recommend hiring a mountain guide or joining a guided tour. This is a very demanding ascent even for experienced climbers due to the extreme weather conditions.
It is necessary to monitor the weather. Climbing Hvannadalshnúkur is only possible in perfect weather conditions.
GPS navigation is necessary.
Complete glacier equipment is recommended.
Recommended accommodation: Hotel Skaftafell

Hiker on top of Finland's highest mountain Halti

January 28, 2024 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Finland – Halti

Finland is a bit sad country when it comes to mountains. The north of Europe can boast of a unique landscape including deep fjords, large glaciers, high mountains and thousands of lakes. However, Finland can offer almost “only” the lakes from these. It’s Norway and partly Sweden who have the high mountains. The Finnish highest point Halti is only 1,324 m high and its peak is not even lying in Finland. The actual peak is situated a few meters behind the border in Norway and is 1,328 m high. It doesn’t mean however that Halti isn’t worth a visit. Follow this article for detailed information about Finnish highest point Halti including all practical information and maps for its visit as well as my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Halti from lake Gualosjárvi

Short description of the ascent: Short hiking but in a difficult terrain without a path
Essential equipment: GPS map or a printed map with compass
Best time to visit: June - September, suitable for winter climbs too, avoid months with short daylight (November - January)
Fees or restrictions: No 
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Olderdalen on the Norwegian side of the border; Kilpisjärvi at the Finnish side
Starting point: Parking lot at Gualosjárvi 
Height of the peak: 1,324 m 
Hiking distance: 6.6 km 
Time to ascend to Halti: 2 hours 30 minutes up, 2 hours down (time on mapy.cz below exaggerated)
Elevation climbed: 647 m
Water availability on the mountain: No
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Tromso 13 Saison ***** (6 stars maximum)

Two main routes to Halti

You can choose two different experiences if you want to climb Halti.

Route 1: From Finnish Kilpisjärvi – If you would like to have a proper Finnish experience, you will want to take this option. This popular route to Halti starts in the small village Kilpisjärvi located in the north-western corner of Finland. From Kilpisjärvi, you can follow a marked trail that leads to the summit of Halti. The trail is around 50 km long and can take anywhere from 3 to 5 days to complete, depending on your pace and level of experience. There are huts on the way where you can stay overnight. Alternatively, you can bring a tent. Along the way, you’ll pass through beautiful Arctic landscapes, including rugged mountains, deep valleys, and crystal-clear lakes. The trail is well-marked and maintained, so you shouldn’t have any problems finding your way. The hike can be challenging, but the stunning views are well worth the effort.

Route 2: From Norwegian lake Gualosjárvi – Another possible route to Halti starts at a beautiful lake Gualosjárvi. You can reach it by turning from the route E6 in Norway in Olderdalen at the village Biertavárri. The road is partly made of gravel so it can become muddy after heavy rains. After ca 30 km on this road you reach a parking lot at the Gualosjárvi lake. From there, head to mountain Ráisduottarháldi, and then continue towards Halti. There is no trail so don’t forget to bring a good GPS map or compass and printed map (if you can use it). This hike is shorter and you can take advantage of passing Norway by stopping at wonderful fjords on the way or visiting the city of Tromsø.

Maps of the hikes from Finland and Norway to Halti

My story of climbing Halti

I climbed Halti as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Since I was a bit under time pressure, I decided for the shorter route leading from Norway, the lake Guolasjárvi. This journey was supposed to take only one day.

Detail of Finland's highest mountain Halti — *Finnish flag on Halti waiting for our visit*

The weather played the most important role in the planning process. There is no trail to the Finnish highest mountain Halti from the Norwegian side so it would be advisable to go to the top in good conditions not to get lost. As the forecast for the following day showed fog, we chose to visit the Norwegian town of Tromsø near the Halti mountain instead. We did not regret that choice, because the weather was much better there and we could at least test Joanne’s new hiking boots.

Tent in a Norwegian fjord — *Tenting in Norway is a dream for every hiker*

The view over Tromsø from a nearby mountain (where you can get by a cable car Fjellheisen) was beautiful as it typically is in Norway. The view over fjords and high mountains around was simply amazing. I got a bit disappointed at the moment, that the Norwegian highest mountain is not in the EU. But what could be done?

Climbing Halti from Norway

We were looking forward to the Finnish summit where we headed the following day. The plan was to camp at the starting point. Unfortunately, there was some maintenance work in the tunnel the night before so we had to settle for camping by some random fjord. We didn’t really mind. Norwegian nature is beautiful simply everywhere. In addition to the view, nature served us a lot of raspberries growing right next to the tent.

Splashin water from a big wave in an Norwegian fjord — *I like random fjords*

When we woke up we were hidden in a deep fog. As I mentioned, the only problem with conquering the Halti mountain from the Norwegian side is navigation. There is no path to the top from Norway, so one must rely only on the map and on his own instincts. I didn’t want to get lost in the fog somewhere in the Finnish mountains, so we waited until the noon for the weather to get better.

Lake Guolasjärvi in Norway — *View over the starting point of the hike – lake Guolasjärvi*

It paid off. The path along the rocky terrain was a pleasant change from the beaten paths on the previous mountains. After the initial three-kilometer climb we found ourselves on a plateau with smaller peaks around. One of them was the Halti mountain.

Hiker and a view over Norwegian lake Guolasjärvi — *Reaching the plateau*

I checked my location according to the map and we marched to the mountain, which was supposed to be the highest point of Finland. Just to be sure, we cheated a bit and used a phone app called Mapy.cz, which confirmed to us that my presumption was correct. I highly recommend this app by the way. All hiking trails are perfectly marked there.

We were standing on the Halti mountain soon. The sad news for all Finns, however, is that the summit of the mountain doesn’t lie in Finland, but in Norway. The highest point of Finland is a few dozen meters away and a few altitude meters below. Fortunately, in this nice weather,we couldn’t miss it. It boasts of a stone-built pillar and a Finnish flag.

Hiker on top of Halti — *On top of Halti*

The last beer in Ylko’s life

As usual, I grabbed my summit beer to celebrate the ascent when one Finnish guy suddenly climbed to the top from the Finnish side. I wanted to make a toast with him but Mr. Ylko stopped me: “I don’t drink alcohol anymore.” He then confessed that he had decided to summit Halti to put an end to his drinking. He told me he had drunk 6000 beers in the last calendar year, and because his wife wanted to leave him, he decided that he’d rather stop drinking. Symbolically, he brought the last Karhu beer can to the highest peak of Finland. He poured the beer on the ground in front of me as a gesture of the end of his drinking period. From his determination, I felt that the resolution to stop drinking would end up well. I hope he has not been drinking since.

Beer Karhu at Finnish mountain Halti — *Ylko ready to spill the last beer of his life*

My tips for climbing the mountain Halti:

GPS navigation is necessary for the successful summit. There is no marked path to the top from the shorter Norwegian side.
I recommend high quality hiking shoes. You have to walk through difficult, rocky terrain.
If you have more time consider a trip to Halti from Finland. The return hiking trail is 89 kilometers long.
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Olderdalen on the Norwegian side of the border; Kilpisjärvi at the Finnish side

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