Adventure Archives - Page 4 of 6 - The Best Viewpoints

View over the highest mountain of Kosovo

August 20, 2023 • 0 Comment

Essential guide to reaching the higest mountain of Kosovo – Rudoka e Madhe

Until recently, Đeravica was considered to be the highest mountain of Kosovo. However, the border between Kosovo and Northern Macedonia was adjusted and since then the highest peak moved to the top of Rudoka e Madhe (also known as Velika Rudoka (Big Rudoka) in Macedonian and Maja e Njeriut in Albanian), which is 2 meters higher than Đeravica. Follow this article to find out everything you need before your visit about Rudoka e Madhe including my personal experience, a map and practical tips. How is the climb to this 2,658 m high mountain?

Important information for climbing Rudoka e Madhe from hotel Arxhena

Short description of the ascent: Long hike with elevation over 1,000 m
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: May - October
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: There isn't any specific law in Kosovo that says wild camping is either legal or illegal
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Hotel Arxhena
Height of the peak: 2,658 m
Hiking distance: 10.8 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Rudoka e Madhe: 4-6 hours up, 3-5 hours down
Elevation climbed: 1,194 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Hotel Arxhena, then the path continues along a river but don't drink water from it. It passes a farm with cattle.
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Sabaja IPA **** (6 stars maximum)

What is the best hiking route to Rudoka e Madhe?

There is basically only one popular route to Rudoka e Madhe. It starts in the ski center and hotel Arxhena in Kosovo. The hiking route starts along a ski slope and continues via a beautiful valley. The steepest part comes at the final part of the hike after you pass a small lake and a farm.

Map of the climb to Rudoka e Madhe from hotel Arxhena

My story of climbing Rudoka e Madhe in winter conditions with personal experience and tips

I climbed Rudoka e Madhe as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. How did it go? After climbing the highest point of Northern Macedonia and Albania – Golem Korab, I went for a new challenge. My girlfriend Joanne and I were about to ascend the new highest peak of Kosovo.

Library in the capital city of Kosovo -Pristina — *We *even* visited Pristina. This is the main and largest library in the country*.

It all started in the capital Pristina. The plan was to go directly to the mountains but the weather was worse than expected. We had to wait three days until the weather was reasonable enough to climb Rudoka e Madhe. We took advantage of the break from the mountains and explored Kosovo.

View over the UNESCO city Priznen — *The city of Prizren at the doorstep of Kosovan mountains.*

When the weather was finally getting better we headed to the Arxhena ski resort in Kosovo where you can find the starting point to Rudoka e Madhe. We passed the nice city Prizren, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and then many cows, sheep and goats on the road before we arrived to hotel Arxhena just next to the ski resort.

In a horror movie

It looked very modern from a distance. We wondered: “Maybe, that’s why it was so expensive on booking.com. It might be a luxury!” However, when we entered it looked terrible inside. Unfinished constructions, holes in staircases, reception covered by plastic, no radiators. Will we survive here until the morning?

Scary hotel in Kosovo — *Charming hotel*

We did even though it was cold at night. We got up at six o’clock to have extra time in case the weather forecast didn’t work and that was a good decision. It was supposed to be sunny but we got a surprise. When we looked out of the window it was completely white outside. New snow and cloudy. We expected snow on top of Rudoka e Madhe but not here next to our hotel which lies only at 1,500 meters above sea level. Really? It is the 7th of May!

Well, the hike will be all in the snow. After a quick breakfast we set out on our journey. It was beautiful outside. The landscape looked like in a fairy tale with the fresh snow. I must admit that the locals chose a beautiful spot for the ski resort. The sharp rocks surrounding the hotel looked amazing covered by snow.

Snowy landscape of sharp mountains in Kosovo — *Morning surprise*

The first part of the journey to the highest point of Kosovo was going on the ski slope. It was the steepest part of the trip. The skiing season was already over so the lift was not in operation. After the initial climb we followed an approximately 5 km long valley until we reached an abandoned farmhouse. We were lucky that the clouds were constantly getting higher, so we still had a nice view over the “sugar covered” landscape.

Snowy landscape of mountains in Kosovo — *The longest part of the hike is along this beautiful canyon*

Sudden tough winter expedition

Behind the farmhouse, it was clear that the climb will be more challenging. The freshly fallen snow was joined by snow from the past winter months. There were no traces in the snow at all. It looked like no one had gone to the summit of Rudoka e Madhe in recent days. Who knows if anyone at all this year.

View over a river and highest point of Kosovo Rudoka e Madhe covered by snow — *We could see Rudoka for only a very short time just when we reached the small farmhouse*

We had to make our own way. I wish we would have had snowshoes. We got deep with every step. The hike was getting tougher and tougher and the clouds suddenly dropped. We ended up in a dense fog. We couldn’t see further than a few meters. Thanks to GPS we could still continue towards the summit. Luckily Rudoka e Madhe isn’t steep so we weren’t scared of complicated terrain like on the way to Golem Korab in Macedonia.

During the final ascent, there were parts of deep snow and ice. We were glad we had crampons with us. We put them on and continued. The higher we were, the stronger the wind blew. It brought fresh snow and it sometimes felt like we were climbing Everest. A kilometer before the summit of Rudoka e Madhe we passed a 2,629 meter high peak and continued along a ridge. Here the terrain was supposed to be a bit more steep but we couldn’t see anything. Luckily the snow was frozen and solid so we weren’t scared of avalanches.

After a while we saw a small column in front of us. That’s Rudoka e Madhe! We are on top of Kosovo. We had no view but we were happy we managed it. I enjoyed the winning feeling with a peak beer and Joanne with coke.

On top of Rudoka e Madher — *Happy to share these experiences with Joanne*

Summit selfie from Rudoka e Madhe — *Summit selfie*

We followed our traces on the way back so it was much faster. After four hours we got back to our hotel where we got a tasty soup. We were tired but we definitely didn’t want to stay in the hotel for another night. In addition to the unpleasant hotel experience, we had also checked the weather forecast. The next day it should be clear sky in Montenegro and then 5 days of heavy snowfall. Tomorrow or never. We have to try climbing the highest point of Montenegro!

Beautiful flowers in mountains in Kosovo — *On the way back to the hotel the snow had already melted at some points and beautiful flowers showed up*

My tips for climbing the mountain Rudoka e Madhe:

Do not stay overnight at the Arxhena Hotel. In addition to the terrible atmosphere, the hotel is also very expensive.
The hike is very long. Don’t underestimate food and water supplies for the trip.
The orientation can be more complicated. Be sure to take GPS navigation with you.
Visit the city Prizren, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on the way.

View at Golem Korab in winter conditions

August 13, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of North Macedonia and Albania – Golem Korab

Until recently, the Korabi mountains and its highest peak Golem Korab were a closed area for tourists. It was possible to climb Golem Korab only once a year, the first Sunday in September, and only from the Macedonian side. Finally these times are gone so it is possible to explore the mountains anytime. It is only necessary to fill in the registration with the border police before you head out to the top of Golem Korab, sometimes also called Great Korab or Mount Korab. You can look forward to a beautiful hike with wonderful views. This article will give you all you need before your visit to Golem Korab including practical information, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Golem Korab from Strezimir

Short description of the ascent: Long hike with elevation over 1,000 m
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: May - October
Fees or restrictions: No but don't forget to take your passport with you. There might be a check on your hike.
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Hotel Korab Trnica  
Height of the peak: 2,764 m
Hiking distance: 8.2 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Mount Korab: 3-6 hours up, 2-4 hours down 
Elevation climbed: 1,288 m
Water availability on the mountain: Last source of water at start of the hike
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *****   (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Skopsko Svetlo Pivo ** (6 stars maximum)

What is the best hiking route to Golem Korab?

Golem Korab is the highest point of both North Macedonia and Albania and there are also two hiking routes to the peak, one from each country. The Albanian route leads from the village Radomirë (see the map of the route) and the route from North Macedonia starts at Strezimir (take a look at the map of the route).

Both of the routes are wonderful with fascinating views and they are also similarly demanding. The route from North Macedonia is just little bit shorter and with less elevation. Whichever route you decide to take, you won’t regret your choice. The Korabi mountains are beautiful. We’ll take a closer look at the route from Strezimir, North Macedonia in this article.

Map of the climb to Golem Korab from Strezimir

My story of climbing Golem Korab in winter conditions with personal experience and tips

I climbed Golem Korab as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I was lucky. Nowadays you can climb Golem Korab from both the Northern Macedonian and the Albanian side which changed just some years ago. Before, the border was closed and it was possible to climb Golem Korab just once a year.

This time, I had a climbing partner with me: my mum. For logistical reasons we decided to climb the mountain from North Macedonia. We left Serbia and entered the de facto new country – North Macedonia which was in February 2019 renamed from Macedonia.

We were welcomed by views over sharp snow-covered mountains. On the one hand we were pleased by the beautiful weather and views. On the other we got a bit scared by the amount of snow. How much snow is there on Golem Korab? Is it safe to climb it in these conditions or will there be avalanche danger? The biggest problem was that we couldn’t find any information online about the current conditions on Golem Korab. The only thing we found out was that this time the weather should be on our side.

Macedonian vodka with ice — *Macedonian vodka for good luck in the mountains*

Power of social media

I got another idea how to find current information from the mountains. I turned on Instagram and searched for hashtags #mountkorab #golemkorab and I found two posts that were only a few hours old. Two ski alpinists celebrated their successful climbs. Great. The conditions from their pictures looked amazing. I showed my discovery to my mom and we felt relieved. To find out more information I sent both climbers a message to ask for more details. I quickly got an answer: “There was no problem on the way to the peak. There is no avalanche danger in the mountains. The only inconvenience was strong wind, but it is not expected tomorrow when you plan to climb Golem Korab. Good luck!”

We stayed overnight near the Mavrovo reservoir in a hotel named Hotel Korab Trnica. Although it was the closest possible hotel to the starting point of the hike, the following day it still took us 45 minutes to drive there in the morning. For a simple reason. The gravel road turned out to be full of holes and we had to drive very carefully. I was very happy that we had a strong 4×4 car, so we managed to pass all the potholes. We even passed the border control, where apparently everyone was still sleeping (Don’t forget to bring your passports though. They are usually checked here).

Border control Stezimir — *Border control was sleeping*

At 6 o’clock we arrived at the starting point Stezimir. We weren’t alone there. Two groups of Czechs and Poles that were tenting there were also just getting ready for the climb. Before we got ready they started their summit attempt. We took a small breakfast and also set out on our journey.

Forest under Golem Korab — *The beginning of the hike was without snow*

Stupid sheep

My mum went up quickly which surprised me. She got into a really good shape before this trip. Soon we left the initial forest and caught up with the first Polish group. The landscape was changing rapidly. With the forests we also left grassy meadows full of purple crocuses behind and soon entered a winter paradise. From 1,800 meters we were above the snow line and hiking up constantly in snow. Fortunately, the Czechs and Poles created a good track in front of us so we didn’t get too deep in the snow.

Snowline at Golem Korab in Macedonia — *We passed the snowline very soon*

When we passed half of the elevation meters both the Czech and the Polish group were taking a break. It seemed to be a great idea so we also took a small snack. By the time we finished, the Czechs were already hiking up again. We followed them after a few minutes. The climb was getting more and more difficult after a while. The terrain got very steep and there was a very difficult traverse in front of us. Did the Czechs choose the correct way? I quickly looked at my GPS map and found out that we are 300 meters above the official trail. What route did the Czechs take? Do they know what they are doing?

Hiking path in snow on the way to Golem Korab — *You can see here how easy it was to take the correct path (picture taken on the way down)*

We had to decide what to do next. Shall we go about a kilometer back and lose 300 altitude meters, or should we keep on following the Czechs and pass this steep section somehow? In the end we decided to try the second option. If they managed, why shouldn’t we?

On the edge on the way to Golem Korab

Steep hiking path in Macedonia — *In this zoomed picture you can see the path we took – the one in the rocks*

We couldn’t make any mistake. If we made a wrong step there we would fall 100 meters down. The surface was slippery and the rocks were breaking after the winter erosion. I wasn’t worried about myself but I worried a lot about my mother. What if she slips and falls? That would be the end. Why didn’t we return? Now it’s too late. We have to continue. We took every step as carefully as possible. I was proud of my mum how she was managing. I was so stressed that I didn’t take any picture of this steep traverse but that’s not important. We managed to pass it.

View of Golem Korab, the highest point of northern Macedonia — *Finally on the ridge*

The worst part of the alternative hike route was behind us but we now entered a terrain without snow so the Czechs’ steps disappeared. Where to go now? I checked the GPS map and it turned out to be best to reach the ridge. My mum was scared that the climb will be even worse but luckily the maps were correct. We climbed 100 meters up and there was a nice trail in the snow again. We followed this path and soon met the group of Poles again who somehow managed to overtake us . “Fucking Czechs,” I said, “Where did they take us?” The Poles were laughing but I saw worry in their faces as well. They actually followed us but decided to come back and follow the regular hiking route. A much wiser decision.

Rely on your own skills

We followed the Czechs like a herd of sheep. So stupid. It could have resulted in a big mistake! Please, never rely on others, especially if you don’t know them. This was a big lesson for me.

We continued hiking up with the Poles. We finally could see the peak of Golem Korab. Just one hundred elevation meters before the summit we met the Czechs. They were already coming back from the peak. When we saw them it was clear that they were sorry for what they had caused. They apologized and were glad that no one got hurt on the wrong path. As a punishment they had no view from the top. A cloud caught them there.

Selfie of two hikers on top of Golem korab — *Peak selfie and view from Golem Korab behind us*

We reached the top a few minutes later. Since there was a thick cloud we didn’t have a view either but we were happy we managed. I opened a peak beer with my mum. My mom is a great climbing partner! Before we finished our beer the weather recovered and we had a wonderful view of both the Macedonian and the Albanian side. The mountains around were wonderful. It felt like in the Alps in the middle of winter. I don’t want to repeat myself, but I didn’t really count on such beautiful snow-capped mountains in the Balkans in May.

I killed two birds with one stone with this ascent. Golem Korab is the highest point of both North Macedonia and Albania. You can also consider a hike to Golem Korab from the Albanian side, which is similarly difficult and long. The route starts in the village of Radomirë.

View from Golem Korab to Albania — *View to Albania*

My tips for climbing the mountain Golem Korab:

Make sure to bring your passport with you. You will probably be checked at the starting point.
Don’t miss a visit of Skopje, the bizarre capital full of interesting monuments. You can also find there Europe’s second largest marketplace.

August 6, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Serbia – Midzor

Serbia’s highest point Midžor lies on the border with Bulgaria in the Stara Planina mountains near the ski resort Babin Zub. The mountains are known for grassy plains and therefore offer wonderful views. The hike to the top of Midžor isn’t particularly steep, and that’s why it’s great not only for summer but also winter ascents on snowshoes or back-country skis with a minimal risk of avalanches. This article will give you all necessary information about Midžor including a map, my personal experience and tips.

Important information for climbing Midžor from Babin Zub hut

Short description of the ascent: Short hike
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Babin Zub hut
Height of the peak: 2,170 m
Hiking distance: 7.4 km 
Time to ascend to Midžor: 2-4 hours up, 1,5-2,5 hours down 
Elevation climbed: 618 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Only at the start of the hike
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***  (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Zaječarsko Pšenično *** (6 stars maximum)

What is the best hiking route to Midžor?

There are three different routes to Midžor. The most common one is very easy and there are also two long and challenging hikes. Which one will you choose?

From Babin Zub: The most common and most popular route to Midžor starts at the Babin Zub hut. The beginning of the path passes a ski resort with iconic rocks resembling teeth (that’s why they are called Babin Zub – Grandma’s tooth) and the path is relatively easy until the peak of Midžor. We’ll take a closer look at this route in the article below.
From Topli Do: Alternatively, you can also reach the peak of Midžor from the Topli Do village. This route is longer and steeper than from Babin Zub. You can expect elevation gain around 1,400 m. This route requires more time but offers great views as it follows a mountain ridge all the way to the peak after the initial ascent.
Bulgarian route: There is also an option to reach Midžor from Bulgaria. This route starts at the Midzhur hut and this route is similarly demanding as from Topli Do. Take a look at map of the route.

Map of the climb to Midžor from the Babin Zub hut

My story of climbing Midžor in winter conditions with personal experience and tips

I climbed Midžor as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Since Balkans belong to my favourite European region for climbing mountains I was very much looking forward to it. How did it go?

This time I was traveling with my mum. Our previous summit in Romania wasn’t completely successful so we wanted to improve our reputation. My mother picked me up by car at the Vienna airport where I landed after my flight from another adventure in Moldova and we drove through Hungary to Serbia. We passed the large Pannonian Basin after the city Niš, which is by the way the birthplace of Constantine the Great, and headed to the mountains.

Amazing Balkan hospitality

Tram café in Niš — *My mum and I had dinner in a very interesting tram café in Niš*

In the evening we reached the mountain village Babin Zub, the starting point of the hike to Midžor. We were welcomed by a pleasant receptionist waiting at the door of the hotel Babin Zub. She quickly earned the nickname Nema Problema (In Serbian: No problem). We had a lot of questions and we always got this answer. At first we suspected that she did not understand our questions at all. But she really fixed everything. I must admit our stay was very pleasant.

We didn’t get up early in the morning because the weather forecast was bad. We rather enjoyed a great local breakfast in the form of a buffet full of all possible salads, cheese, sausages, eggs and other local delicacies.

Long winter in the Balkans

It was a good decision because it started to snow heavily during our breakfast. Who would expect that from the Balkans at the end of April? In the end there was 10 cm of new snow outside before we finished our breakfast. That will be a hike!

Serbian mountainsin spring after a snow shower — *Fresh snow on the hill seen from our window*

The snowfall passed but instead a thick fog covered the Serbian mountains. My mum and I would have liked to postpone the hike to the following day but it wasn’t an option. We had to save extra days for more challenging mountains. We had to conquer Midžor even in these bad conditions.

Most of the route was along an off-road path so it was easy to follow it even in the current fog. The hike was a bit boring in this weather but we soon got lucky. After an hour of walking the fog disappeared and we could finally see the beauty of the Serbian mountains. We also found out why the local village and our hotel are called Babin Zub (Grandma’s tooth). A large rock in the shape of a tooth rises above the village.

Hostile Midžor

Ski resort Babin zub and its majestic rock above — *View over the Babin Zub rock and small local ski resort*

This weather wasn’t supposed to stay good for a long time. We saw dark clouds approaching us. When we reached the summit the clouds just arrived. We again found ourselves in a dense fog, this time accompanied by strong winds and heavy snowfall. The snowflakes were even mixed with hail. The icy particles were big and frozen. They were hitting our faces so hard that we had to cover them with our scarves. These were the harshest conditions I had ever experienced on any mountain. That’s how I imagine conditions when conquering the North Pole. Who would expect this from Serbia at the end of April? If similar weather would have met me in Iceland, Mont Blanc or on another difficult mountain, I think it would have been a fight for life or death.

Frozen tourists on Midžor — *My mum and I frozen on Midžor*

My tips for climbing the mountain Midžor:

In winter, take snowshoes or back-country skis with you to summit Modžor. After the successful summit you can also enjoy skiing in the ski resort Babin Zub.
Don’t forget to enjoy local food and drinks in Serbian restaurants or mountain huts. The food is delicious and cheap.

Aerial view of the highest mountain of Croatia - Dinara

July 30, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest peak of Croatia – Dinara (Sinjal)

Croatia has become a very popular seaside destination recently. However, only few tourists visit the local mountains, which is a great pity. Croatian mountains are beautiful. The highest point of Croatia Dinara was named after the Dinaric Mountains, a 700-kilometer-long mountain range system that spans over almost all the countries of former Yugoslavia. The mountains are wonderful and offer amazing views. The hike to the highest point of Croatia isn’t an exception. To reach the peak isn’t a challenge technically but it can get very hot there so don’t forget to bring enough water. For more details and tips including my personal experience read my article below.

Important information for climbing Dinara

Short description of the ascent: Standard hike with no water on the way
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear and a lot of water especially during hot summer months.
Best time to visit: Possible all year round 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Knin
Starting point: Glavaš 
Height of the peak: 1,831 m 
Hiking distance: 7.4 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Dinara: 2,5-4 hours up, 2-3 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1,237 m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: At elevation around 1,000 m there was a well with water but don't trust it. It can get dry during summer heat.
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Karlovačko ** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Dinara (Sinjal)

The easiest route and also the most popular one starts nearby the village Glavaš (see the map below). There is a small parking lot and a possibility to camp as well at the starting point. The route goes gently up along an old castle and it is well marked so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. I just recommend to follow the route to the left once you reach a small plateau with a crossroad. We went right to ring a bell in a small rock church on the way and the route ended soon after.

Map of the best route to Dinara (Sinjal)

My story of climbing Dinara with personal tips

I visited Dinara as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. This time I had hiking partners with me. My brother Štěpán and his friend Maruška decided to join me. We had all visited Croatia many times, like most Czechs, but we never visited the Croatian mountains. How was it?

We arrived to the city of Knin which is known for the war between the Serbs and the Croats. Fortunately, the houses destroyed or damaged in the war have either disappeared or have been reconstructed and the town in the foothills of Dinara mountains became a nice touristic destination.

Bring a lot of water

View over Dinara — *You can see Dinara already from long distance*

We took a healthy lunch (a plate full of seafood) in Niš and drove to the starting point of our hike which is nearby the small village Glavaš. There was a small parking lot where we left our car and immediately started our hike. We passed the ruins of an old fortress and continued on a well marked path. It was really hot and we soon drank all our water supplies. Fortunately, there was a small water supply at a height of 1,000 meters above sea level so we could fill up our stomachs and bottles. We enjoyed a moment in the shade of the trees nearby the water supply.

Hiker lost in the Croatian mountains — *Which way bro? Left or straight??*

After the short break, we continued and soon reached a shelter for mountaineers in case of bad weather. However, it looked inside more like a dormitory for the homeless so I do not recommend sleeping here overnight. On the contrary, it might be a good idea to bring a tent. The surrounding meadows are beautiful.

Maps in Croatia don’t work 100%

Nearby the shelter there is a crossroad. My brother and I checked the map and decided to go straight. This path looked more attractive on the map, heading to a nice little church in the rock on the way. The problem was that the path ended after another 300 meters. We had two choices – to go 200 elevation meters down and head on to the left or continue up according to the map.

Sign in Croatian mountains — *Left was the correct answer but we chose to go straight*

Since the route was marked on the map with the same thick line as the one on the left, we decided to continue. This made the journey more interesting. It was a fun off-road hike but my brother didn’t share this opinion and called me a few “beautiful” Czech words. In the end we overcame all obstacles on the way including bushes and rocks and we reached the peak successfully.

Beautiful view in Croatian mountains — *Back on the correct path*

Despite the delay, we got up early enough to enjoy a beautiful sunset over the Adriatic Sea. I quickly pulled out the Czech flag to make a nice picture of the last mountain of the first part of my expedition European Peaks. Dinara was the last mountain of the whole EU which I managed to visit. We took a few pictures and celebrated the successful summit with the peak beer Karlovačko.

Aerial view of the highest point of Croatia - Dinara (Sinjal) 1 — *Summit drone selfie! The last EU Peak conquered*!

Aerial view of the highest point of Croatia - Dinara (Sinjal) 2 — *We made it!*

My tips for visiting the mountain Dinara:

Take plenty of water with you, especially in summer. It is very hot in the Croatian mountains and there is only one water supply on the way.
If you like biking you can also consider visiting mountain Sveti Jure (1,762 m) nearby the city Makarska. This mountain is reachable by bike from sea level and offers excellent views.

July 23, 2023 • 0 Comment

Visiting Zeus: How to climb the highest point of Greece – Mount Olympus

Mount Olympus belongs to my favourite mountains in Europe. The mountain of gods is so beautiful that I quickly understood why Zeus and his colleagues chose this mountain to rule from. The climb is long and demanding but the experience and views are worth the effort. In this article, I will give you all information you need to successfuly reach the peak and also a secret tip how to make most out of the trip to the Olympus Range.

Important information for climbing Mount Olympus

Short description of the ascent: Demanding long hike, it's recommended to do it in two days
Essential equipment: Hiking gear for long and demanding hikes, helmets
Best time to visit: June - October 
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: huts Christos Kakkalos, Giosos Apostolides and Spillos Aqapitos
Recommended accomodation before climb: Roboto Boutique Hotel in Litochoro
Starting point: Prionia (see the map below) nearby village Litochoro
Height of the peak: 2,918 m
Hiking distance: 9.6 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Mount Olympus: 7 hours up, 4 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,928 m up and 168 m down (one way)
Water availability on the mountain: huts Christos Kakkalos, Giosos Apostolides and Spillos Aqapitos
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Olymposbeer Golden (dark lager) *** (6 stars maximum)
Recommended guided operator to the peak: Explosivo Travel

Description of two best routes to Mount Olympus

There are multiple options how to reach the highest point of Greece, Mount Olympus, also called Mytikas. I will describe the most popular route which is also the shortest as well as my favorite one which is a bit longer but it should be taken in my opinion because it includes wonderful views over the peak.

Option 1: Straight from parking lot Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via hut Spillos Aqapitos – this route is the shortest and can be made in one long day or in two days with a night spent at the Spillos Aqapitos hut.
Option 2: From Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via Christor Kakalos hut and mountain Profitis Ilias – I strongly recommend this route because the view from the plateau around Christor Kakalos hut over Mount Olympus is magnificient. In fact, it’s even better than from the top of the mountain. I recommend to stay overnight at the Christos Kakalos hut and hike up the nearby mountain Profitis Ilias for an unforgettable sunrise during which you can marvel at the majestic mountain on one side and the Aegean sea on the other.

Both of the routes include a very steep part of the final summit where you will have to scramble. Helmets are strongly recommended as there are loose stones. If you don’t have enough experiences with steep terrains, a guide is necessary. You can book a certified guided trip to the top. Accommodation before your climb is recommended in the nearest old village Litochoro.

Map of the routes to Mount Olympus

Option 1: Straight from parking lot Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via hut Spillos Aqapitos

Option 2: From Prionia to Mount Olympus (Mytikas) via Christor Kakalos hut and mountain Profitis Ilias

My story of climbing Mount Olympus with personal tips

I climbed Mount Olympus within my project European Peaks during which I managed to climb the highest mountain of every European country in a year. I was using the Interrail service to travel around and I had the most interesting story on my way from Bulgaria to Greece so here my story starts.

I was lucky with the weather in the Bulgaria and it looked promising also for the rest of my Balkans trip so I was looking forward to climbing the highest mountain of Greece. However, before I start talking about the actual summit I would like to introduce the amazing travel with Bulgarian railways which I used on the way to Greece. Over +30° C, no air condition, broken window opening system, no water to buy.

Train from Bulgaria to Greece — *Our luxurious train to Greece*

Luckily, the miracle happened at the border with Greece. For some unknown reason we had to leave the train and wait for another one operated by Greek railways. To make our waiting less boring we passed the border with a bus overtaking the longest queue I have ever seen. How lucky we are to live in the Schengen Area.

Random stop at the border

After a quick security check we reached probably the most remote village in the whole of Greece with stray dogs and still no shop to buy water or food. This will be our stop for another hour. Both we and the dogs are hungry and thirsty. Unfortunately the dogs don’t know we have no water and no food so they are begging and begging. This is not the best occasion for people who are scared of dogs. I rather sit aside hoping that the train comes soon.

Strimon train station — *Waiting for a new train*

After half an hour, two strangers come and offer to me and my friend a beer. Miracles do happen! We quickly became friends with these two Interrail travellers, American Wyatt and French Joyce. We talk about our experiences on the road and about our misery in the Bulgarian trains.

Interrail train travel — *Inconvenient and tiring travelling results in new good friends*

Short sightseeing before our climb

The train arrives soon. Compared to Bulgarian trains another extreme is waiting. It is freezing cold in the train because of too strong air conditioning. I put on extra clothes and with newly ordered beers we continue towards Thessaloniki. Wyatt becomes more and more interested in my expedition and soon decides to join us for the Greek adventure. Rikki and I have nothing against it.

Two tourists sightseeing in Thessaloniki — *Quick sightseeing in Thessaloniki*

The weather forecast was good for the following days so we didn’t wait and decided to directly go to conquer Mount Olympus. We hired a car and left to the village Litochoro. I wasn’t driving so I was googling a bit and I found by accident the Olymposbeer brewery which was on the way. What a coincidence!

When we reached the “brewery” we found out it is just an office with only one employee who couldn’t speak any English. We could at least practice our mime though and obviously, it is good! After 15 minutes of awkward conversation we each received a bottle of beer. Now we are ready for the climb!

Climbing in sandals?

The hike starts at a small parking lot above the Litochoro village called Prionia. I was happy we are on the way but after a few steps Rikki and I were shocked. Wyatt is wearing sandals. “Seriously, Wyatt?” we asked. “You will actually need to climb during the last part of the summit.” “Calm down,” he replied. “I climbed in these amazing shoes a 10 000 feet mountain. No worry.” We didn’t have any idea what his mountain could look like but he looked persuasive so we trusted him and decided to continue.

The journey is long and steep. It’s late afternoon and we meet dozens of tourists on the way down. Nobody is hiking up. It doesn’t take long time before we reach the first hut on the way. We get some liquid energy and continue. The tree line is approaching and we start to have a view over the sea. So rewarding. It also becomes colder. Wyatt’s feet are cold so he puts on socks and we start to hike faster to reach our destination. Four hours after the start of the hike we reach the plateau below the peak of Mount Olympus.

*View over Mount Olympus from the plateau close to refuge Christos Kakkalos*

Don’t miss the epic view over Mount Olympus during sunrise

Wow. What a beautiful mountain. I didn’t make much research in advance about what Mount Olympus looks like and this was the right choice. It is probably the most beautiful mountain of all EU Peaks. For a better atmosphere, the setting sun created an amazing light. We nearly felt that Zeus will show up. It was a perfect time to reach our destination Refuge Christos Kakkalos.

Refuge Christos Kakkalos and Mount Olympus after sunset — *Refuge Christos Kakkalos after sunset*

Dmitrij, the responsible at this cabin, was very hospitable. We got amazing local food and talked with him and other guests until the late evening. We didn’t omit the local tsipouro either. Yamas!

The best view over Mount Olympus is from Profitis Ilias

We woke up early in the morning but this time not to climb to the top of Mount Olympus. Instead we decided to reach another mountain Profitis Ilias nearby to have a view over the majestic mountain of gods. In addition to this view we could also watch the waking sun above the sea. It was definitely a good decision. This was magnificent scenery.

Panorama view of Mount Olympus and the sea from the mountain Profitis Ilias — *Panorama view from the mountain Profitis Ilias*

We enjoyed the amazing scenery for some time but we knew we were still expecting a tough climb so we got back to the Christos Kakkalos hut, we rented helmets and we finally started to hike up to Mount Olympus.

Beautiful Mount Olympus during sunrise — *The view was so awesome that here you also have a cropped picture from the previous panorama and view just over Mount Olympus*

Steep final summit to Mount Olympus

First we traversed to the beginning of the climbing trail and after a few hundred meters the real adventure starts. For the last time we ask Wyatt if he thinks it is a good idea to climb up in his sandals. However, he confirmed again that we have nothing to worry about. Well, let’s go up.

We slowly scramble up with Rikki when we suddenly hear the singing: “Wyatt, why did you do this, this, this? Wyatt, you are such an idiot, idiot, idiot. Come on man, you will survive this, this, this.” It’s clear. Wyatt has a problem. “Are you okay? Do you have problems with your sandals?” we ask. “No. The sandals are okay but I forgot to say I’m afraid of heights.” We didn’t know what to say. Seriously? “What now? Do you want to come back?” “No. It will be even worse. I have to climb up.” Wyatt stopped looking down and didn’t give up. He took a deep breath ten times and continued upward. The climb was not long and after a few minutes we all reached the top of Mount Olympus. Rikki and I enjoyed the view and Wyatt made a triumphant selfie with his sandal.

On top of Mount Olympus — *Celebrating the successful climb in Zeus’ home*

Well deserved relax at the beach

We enjoy the Olymposbeer peak beer and sunbath in an already warm sun for about an hour. The view over the sea is however very tempting so we decide to return to Litochoro and later to the nearest beach. I would like to write that the chilled typical Greek ouzo which we ordered on the beach was the best reward for the two-day effort in the mountains. Unfortunately, I have to write that I have never drunk anything more disgusting. Anise is just not my cup of tea, so I bought instead the wheat Greek beer Alpha. With that, the view from the sea to the mountain where we sunbathed only a few hours ago was much more pleasant.

The closest beach from Mount Olympus with view of the Zeus mountain — *The closest beach from Mount Olympus, perfect for chill after a tough climb*

I think I will have to come back sometimes, especially after the local people told us their experiences with freeride skiing in the winter.

Employees of refuge Christos Kakkalos — *Thanks for the great hospitality at Refuge Christos Kakkalos!*

Back-country skiing at Mount Olympus — *Next time I am back for back-country skiing*

My tips for the mountain Mount Olympus:

If you are on a holiday in Greece, do not omit visiting the mountain Mount Olympus. This is one of the most beautiful mountains in Europe.
I recommend spend night before your climb in nice village Litochoro and start hiking later in the afternoon, spend night at the refuge Christos Kakkalos and climb the peak early in the morning. You will avoid the crowds.
If you don’t have experience with steep climbs, I recommend a certified guide.
Before the actual summit don’t miss the view from Profitis Ilias.
Please, don’t bring sandals 🙂

A hiker enjoying view from the mountain Musala udring sunrise

July 16, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Bulgaria – Musala

The mountain Musala is the proud highest mountain of the Balkans. The Greeks would happily erase this mountain from the map to have their Mount Olympus be the highest but Zeus is not that strong anymore. This mountain can be proud of ranking first in one of my charts. I spent a night in the most cozy mountain hut there lying just 400 meters below Musala. Together with beautiful nature around it is definitely another mountain I recommend to climb.

Important information for climbing Musala

Short description of the ascent: Easy but long hike, possible to take a shortcut with a lift
Essential equipment: Regular hiking gear
Best time to visit: June - October 
Fees or restrictions: No 
Camping allowed: Yes 
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Ledeno Ezero hut, Musala hut
Starting point: Borovets village (see the map below) 
Height of the peak: 2,926 m 
Hiking distance: 12.6 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Musala: 5-7 hours up, 4 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1,590 m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: small rivers and lakes on the way
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Glarus Saison **** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Musala

While there are many starting points to start your climb to Musala, the best one lies in the village of Borovets. There are several parking lots in the centre so it’s easy to leave your car behind and start the hike through Rila national park.

Since Borovets is a very popular ski resort in winter you have an option to take a shortcut up via a chair lift. It will save you 1,000 elevation meters. Chair lifts were forbidden though for me on my adventure European Peaks so I followed a well marked trail to Musala hut first and then to Ledeno Ezero. This hut is one of the highlights of the trip so I recommend to spend a night there. Since it’s nearby the top, it’s easy to catch the sunrise over the whole Bulgaria. The panoramic views are wonderful.

Map of the best route to Musala

My story of climbing Mount Olympus with personal tips

After four climbed EU Peaks (Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania) in five days I needed a break. Good that I climbed Moldoveanu Peak two days in advance compared to my plan so I could take a short break. Since I had never been by the Black Sea before I decided to spend some time in Varna, one of the most famous Bulgarian sea holiday resorts.

The way to the sea was interesting. I changed trains at the border between Romania and Bulgaria and since I had no Bulgarian cash I had to leave the train station to find a cash machine. When seeing the streets of the city Ruse I felt like I had gone 50 years back in time. Communist architecture everywhere and no traces of Western development. I was most amazed by the subway where I found a local poker club. Could you think of a more cozy spot to play cards?

*Poker club under bridge in the city of Ruse in Bulgaria*

Luckily, the cash machine was not far and it worked so I could buy a refreshing beer to survive the train without air condition to the beach. Varna was great. I enjoyed the beach, local bars and cheap food. Perfect two days of rest.

A huge boat at a beach in Varna, Bulgaria — *Varna*

Musala stands above the largest ski resort in Bulgaria

After I charged new energy I went to Sofia to meet my friend Rikki who was to join me for the next two mountains in Bulgaria and Greece. After a small breakfast and quick sightseeing we headed towards Borovets, the largest ski resort in Bulgaria, which is also the starting point of the hike to Musala.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral at Sofia — *Sofia and short sightseeing at the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral*

You have two options how to get up to the top. Either you are lazy and you take a cable car halfway up or you take a nice walking path through the forest. Since cable cars are forbidden on my expedition, Rikki and I took the path. Before we set out for our journey it had been raining the whole day so the path was pretty muddy. However, the advantage was that the weather put off other tourists. I read in several blogs before that Musala is usually very touristic so we got lucky and met only a few brave climbers not scared of mud and wet hiking paths.

After 2 hours of steep hiking, Rikki passed a big milestone. At 1,604 m he was at the highest level in his whole life, passing his previously managed highest, the Czech mountain Sněžka. At this point, the forest also started to fade away and we could enjoy views around the ski resort.

Bulgarian ghost town

In the end, it took us three hours to reach the first cabin on the way. It’s called Musala hut but I would rather call it “the ghost hut.” The building was cold, abandoned and very dark. The only weird thing was that the door said: OPEN. I tried my luck and I called: “Is anyone here?” and suddenly an invisible man hidden in shadow behind the bar asked: “What do you wish to order, Sir?” “Two beers, please” I replied surprised and scared. In return Rikki and I got our beers, surprisingly not provided by a bony hand.

Beer tasting at Musala hut — *The first sip of the beer before we realized it’s not safe to stay inside*

My friend and I didn’t really like the atmosphere inside so we enjoyed our beer outside with a view over Musala. The bartender disappeared again in the darkness of his mysterious home. Out of nowhere, the first tourist occurred. His name was Chris and he was from Germany. “Hi, what’s your plan today?” we asked hoping for a new partner in case our destination hut Ledeno Ezero is a ghost hut too. “I am staying here. I’m already tired and I will climb Musala tomorrow.” he answered. Since we are nice guys we told him our experience to save his life but Chris insisted on his plan and stayed. Good luck Chris!

Fairy tale grandma

We finished our energy drinks and started to march up towards Musala again. Half an hour later, Chris showed up. “I couldn’t stay there. It was too scary. Guys, I am following you.” What a surprise. We knew it. I wouldn’t like to see the statistics of how many people survived the night there.

Ledene Ezero hut below Musala — *Ledene Ezero hut*

We reached the Ledeno Ezero hut after 2 more hours. From our previous experience, we expected the worst but the result was completely opposite. In this warm and cozy hut we were welcomed by an old lady with a smile on her face and a welcome tea. We started to dry our clothes and shoes and we got two amazing soups in a minute. For an even better mood, the host started to play old hard rock songs by ACDC, Metallica, Guns n’ Roses and other classic rock stars. She quickly got her new nickname: The Rock n’ Roll grandma. Even though she didn’t speak any English and we didn’t speak any Bulgarian we had a nice conversation for a few hours in a kind of Czech-Russian-Bulgarian-mime language. We also got a tasty main dish and a free shot as an appetizer.

Rock n' Roll grandma at Ledene Ezero hut — *Rock n’ Roll grandma at Ledene Ezero hut*

The brightest Milky Way I’ve ever seen

The top of Musala was already close and the weather forecast was promising so our goal was obvious. Let’s get to the top for sunrise. We went to bed at 10 p.m. so we still had enough time for a decent sleep. The problem occurred when I went to the toilet at midnight. The sky got completely clear and I saw the nicest Milky Way in my life. Shit. I have to capture this. In the end, I stayed outside for two hours shooting stars under Musala. You can judge yourself if it was worth it.

Watching sunrise from the top of Musala

The alarm at 4 a.m. was then tougher but seeing sunrise on the top made us get out of the bed in record time. We packed our breakfast and started to scramble up to Musala. 35 minutes later we were on the top just in time to catch the sunrise. Amazing. From freezing temperatures the sun suddenly turned the mountains into a pleasant place for an early breakfast.

View from the mountain Musala during sunrise — *View from the mountain Musala*

We stayed for some time and enjoyed the scenery of the Balkan mountains but not too long because we knew the Rock n’ Roll grandma was waiting for us with a second breakfast. Afterwards, the way down went without any problems and we even found our car where we parked it so we successfully finished our Bulgarian mission.

My tips for the mountain Musala:

Avoid the scary Musala hut and head instead to the Ledene Ezero hut which is perfect for staying over.
Check in advance if there is any pilgrim tour to Musala. It can be both an interesting experience to see or an annoying crowd heading to the highest Bulgarian point. It depends on your point of view.
The Bulgarian mountains are perfect for watching the Milky way. If you come there in the time of new moon and you get lucky with clear sky you might see the nicest Milky Way of your life (especially if you haven’t traveled outside Western Europe where the light pollution is too strong to see stars).

Beautiful sunset view of Fagaras mountains

July 9, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak

The Făgăraș mountains in Romania are a majestic range of rugged beauty. If you are looking for a wonderful mountain ridge hike with a minimum of other visitors, this is the place for you. You’ll most likely only meet sheep on the way. Among the mountains on the main ridge one stands out – Moldoveanu, the highest summit. Climbing Moldoveanu’s peak requires courage and endurance. It lies more than 13 km from the nearest village and therefore is usually climbed in two days but it’s so worth it! Not only the summit but the whole journey offers unforgettable views over surrounding peaks, valleys, and lakes.

Important information for climbing Moldoveanu Peak

Short description of the ascent: Very demanding long hike on the mountain ridge
Essential equipment: Hiking gear for long and demanding hikes
Best time to visit: June - October (Be careful of strong storms during high season)
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Bâlea Lac and hut Caban Podragu
Recommended accommodation before the hike: Well rated Hotel Paraul Capra on the other side of the tunnel of Transfagarasan
Starting point: village Bâlea Lac (see the map below)
Height of the peak: 2,544 m
Hiking distance: 13.1 km (one way) - be careful - demanding both ways
Time to ascend to Moldoveanu peak: 8 hours up, 7 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1,429 m up and 965 m down (this means only one way - important to count on the way back!)
Water availability on the mountain: hut Cabana Podragu and a stream under mountain Mircii (see the map below)
Difficulty level: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Silva Black (dark lager) *** (6 stars maximum)

Description of two best routes to Moldoveanu Peak

The highest point of Romania – Moldoveanu Peak is very remote compared to other highest mountains of European countries. It’s recommended to climb it in two days because the distance from the nearest village Bâlea Lac is very long and the hiking path to the peak is very hard with many ascents and descents. I recommend to stay at Cabana Podragu on the way or to bring a tent. Regarding the route, you have these two main options:

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac: This option is a bit shorter but it’s very hard because you will have to hike the tough ridge with many uphills and downhills both ways.
Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria: This option is a bit longer but it has the advantage that you descend on the way back to civilization.

I myself selected the second option but I have to admit it didn’t feel like an easier route. It was very long and demanding too. There is no easy way to and from Moldoveanu Peak.

Map of the route to Moldoveanu Peak

Option 1: Bâlea Lac – Cabana Podragu – Moldoveanu Peak – Bâlea Lac

Option 2: Bâlea Lac – Moldoveanu Peak – Cabana Podragu – Victoria

My story of climbing Moldoveanu Peak

I have to be honest. Moldoveanu Peak is the mountain which I underestimated the most of all European Peaks I climbed. Starting at 2,030 m and looking at the map showing 2,544 m for the highest peak makes the underestimation easy. In the end, it became one of the toughest hikes with the first injury. On the other hand it also became the hike with one of the best views and the least tourists. Follow my steps in the Făgăraș mountains.

To Moldoveanu Peak via one of the most amazing roads in the world

My trip to the highest peak of Romania started in a night train from Hungary. I was lucky to book one of the last beds in the train so I could charge some energy before the fourth EU Peak in four days! I was happy that my mum also wanted to join for one EU Peak and she chose Moldoveanu Peak. She was already waiting for me with my father in the city Făgăraș, the city which gave its name to the mountain ridge with the highest mountain of Romania. The city itself is not interesting at all though. We took a short lunch break and continued up to the mountains.

Soon we reached the starting point of our hike which is located at Bâlea Lac pass. The drive up was epic, which is not surprising. The Transfăgărășan road was named one of the most amazing roads in the world, definitely the most scenic car drive of my trip.

Hiking at Fagaras mountains — *Time for some hiking with my parents*

The weather forecast was very good so I made a brave plan to tent on Moldoveanu Peak. I was really looking forward to this challenge. My parents seemed to look forward too. We packed our backpacks and I took all of my equipment with me including a tent, a sleeping bag, a mattress, clothes, food and of course my drone and all camera equipment. Altogether my backpack was 30 kg. This hike was supposed to be a test for a one week long hike across the Swedish mountains. Is it a good idea?

Fascinating ridge of Făgăraș mountains

The initial climb to the mountain ridge isn’t really difficult and after half an hour you have a magnificent view. We thought that the toughest part was behind. Then, we walked up and down on the ridge and enjoyed amazing views around. I think you can’t find such a nice grassy landscape anywhere else.

View from the ridge over beautiful road Transfăgărășan — *View from the ridge over Transfăgărășan*

After ca 3.5 km we stood in front of a fork. Should we take an easier route via the refuge Cabana Podragu or should we take a more scenic route and continue on the mountain ridge via a trail called “Three steps from death”? We still felt in shape so we decided for the more challenging route.

Three Steps from Death

Unfortunately, that showed up to be a big mistake. The hike would be okay with light backpacks but carrying 30 kg wasn’t fun at all. After a few hundred meters the most crucial part occurred. We had to use steel chains to get further up and subsequently down. At one point my mum lost balance and fell on her back. When my father and I looked at her we knew directly that this won’t be okay. “I twisted my ankle” she said in pain.

At this point, Moldoveanu Peak had to step aside. We had to come up with a rescue plan. I first thought we would have to call an ambulance but my mum said: “No, if I stop the ankle becomes swollen and it would be even worse. I have to continue to the nearest civilization.” My father and I were surprised by her decision but we couldn’t say anything against it. The doctor is always right, and she actually is a doctor. Looking at the map we were in the worst position. We were at two thirds of the route in between our starting point and the refuge Cabana Podragu.

Fagaras mountains in Romania during sunset — *It was getting dark and we still didn’t reach the cabin*

My mum refused to go back the same way so we decided to continue to the cabin. She tightened her shoes and we continued walking. We became slower and the sun started to go down. We realized soon that we won’t manage to reach the cabin before sunset. Instead, we decided to build tents. I found a nice tenting spot on top of a mountain only 40 meters lower than Moldoveanu Peak. Look at the view I had from my tent.

Fantastic sunset over beautiful Romanian mountains — *Green paradise going to sleep*

How to get my mum safely home?

After sunset we were planning what to do the following day. The shortest way for my mum to get to civilization was to continue to the cabin Podragu and then down through a valley to the village Arpașu de Sus so we decided for that. My father wanted to make everything easier so he decided to go back to our starting point to pick up the car to make my mum’s journey shorter. I decided to wake up at 4 am to conquer Moldoveanu Peak in the early morning and join my mum later at the cabin Podragu.

This solution had one certain advantage. I still have the opportunity to climb the highest mountain of Romania! The disadvantage was that my sleep would be very short. It could be longer but I decided to take pictures of the Milky Way. It was such a beautiful night.

Don’t bring a too heavy backpack to the mountains

In the early morning I woke up very tired but visualizing myself on the top gave me energy to start my hike. I was still halfway from our starting point though. I passed the last pieces of snow from last winter, witnessed a beautiful sunrise and enjoyed views over spacious green mountains. The journey was long and there were no people around. The only living beings I met were sheep.

It could be an amazing day but I always had on my mind that my injured mum was waiting for me, so I tried to hurry as much as I could. Two hours later though I needed a break. I suddenly became too tired to continue. I decided to leave my tent and sleeping bag under a large stone to have a lighter backpack. My hike became better but not for a long time. Soon I was tired again. The backpack was still over 20 kg. I decided to even leave my drone and my computer under several stones in order to be able to continue.

On the top of Moldoveanu Peak

One more hour and I finally conquered Moldoveanu Peak. I was super tired but the view was excellent. A pity I couldn’t enjoy it for a long time because my mum was waiting. I didn’t want to let her go alone. In the end I stayed only for the essential pictures before I headed back.

Selfie on top of Moldoveanu Peak, the highest peak of Romania — *Tired on the top of Moldoveanu Peak*

On the way back I realized I didn’t have any local money and no food either so my mum was the only potential source of new energy at the cabin Podragu. After realizing that I even started to run back. Luckily, I found one Lifebar Protein energy bar in my bag which gave me enough energy to see my mum. She was still waiting. She said her deadline before leaving was in ten minutes. How lucky I was.

Never ending descent

I ordered a local soup, a main dish and a local beer. Much better. I felt like a reborn Jarda. I felt ready to descend. My mum got new energy too but her ankle still hurt. Let’s hope we’ll make it. If I said the journey to Moldoveanu Peak was long, then I don’t know what to say about the descent to the village Arpașu de Sus. First few kilometers were scenic but once we got into the forest the journey got boring and never ending. Even my watch turned off because of low battery. That long was this terrible descent.

Sheep in Romanian mountains — *Besides my parents, the only living beings I met in Romanian mountains*

When it looked like we are finally reaching the road where my father was supposed to wait, the path suddenly started to go up. One turn, second turn, third turn, fourth turn until I suddenly screamed: “Kurv∗!” Only 10 more turns up and finally the hill ended. Then we just had to go steeply down and there was my father waiting. We managed!

After taking off her shoes, my mum’s ankle got three times bigger and she wasn’t able to walk on it for one month. Never underestimate mountains. This could end up much worse but we managed in the end. So proud of my parents.

My tips for the mountain Moldoveanu Peak:

Don’t underestimate Moldoveanu Peak.
Make the summit in two days. Tent halfway or stay over in the cozy refuge Podragu.
If you have longer time you can cross the whole Făgăraș mountain ridge. The whole trip takes ca 7 days.

July 2, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to successfully and safely climb Europe’s highest peak Elbrus

Many people consider Mont Blanc to be Europe’s highest mountain. In fact, it is the Russian mountain Elbrus in the Caucasus Mountains. Elbrus is a volcano with two peaks. The western one measures 5,642 meters and is 21 meters higher than its eastern brother. Compared to Mont Blanc it is technically simple to climb Elbrus but it is demanding due to meteorological conditions and high altitude. This is your ultimate guide for reaching its peak including maps, an ideal itinerary and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Elbrus via the south route (the normal route)

Short description of the ascent from Terskol: Demanding multiday climb on glacier 
Essential equipment: Full glacier gear
Best time to visit: June - September (July and August are best)
Height of the peak: 5,642 m
Distance to the top: 6.4 km (one way without acclimatization)  
Time to ascend from Garabashi village to Elbrus: 4 days are recommended (see recommended itinerary below)
Elevation climbed (Garabashi - Elbrus): 1,778 m 
Water availability on the mountain: At all the huts on the way.
Difficulty level: ****** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Valaisanne Baltika 7 Eksportnoe ** (6 stars maximum)

The most popular route to Elbrus – the south route

The most popular route to the summit of Elbrus is the Normal Route, also known as the South Route. Here is its description:

Starting Point – Terskol (2,150 m):
- The journey typically begins in the town of Terskol, where climbers organize their gear and make final preparations. From Terskol, it’s also popular to make first acclimatization trip to mountain Chezem (3,461 m). It’s possible to hike up or take a lift from Cheget.
Azau (2,350 m) – Garabashi (3,800 m):
- After acclimatization at Terskol and Chezem, it’s time to move towards Elbrus. You can either hike up to the Garabashi Barrels huts or take a cable car. It is regarded as the base camp for the ascent.
Acclimatization Hikes between Garabashi and Pastukhov Rocks (4,600 m):
- Before attempting the summit, climbers undertake acclimatization hikes to higher elevations. These hikes help the body adjust to the reduced oxygen levels. It’s recommended to hike up to Maria Shelter (4,100m) on Day 1 and to the Pastukhov Rocks (4,600 meters) on Day 2.
High Camp Maria Shelter:
- Before the summit push, climbers move to the high camp at Maria Shelter (4,100 m). This camp provides a strategic starting point for the final ascent.
Summit Day:
- The summit push usually begins in the early hours of the morning to take advantage of stable weather conditions. The route is well marked and isn’t particularly technically demanding but the altitude is very high and proper acclimatization is necessary. It’s highly recommended not to to climb the summit in bad weather conditions as hard winds and visibility are the most common reasons of accidents.
West Summit (5,642 m):
- There are two summits on Mount Elbrus – the West Summit and the East Summit. The West Summit is slightly higher and is the primary goal for most climbers.

Map of the climb of Elbrus via the south route (the normal route)

What is the highest peak of Europe?

Many people think that Mont Blanc is the highest mountain of Europe but is it true? Is Elbrus in Europe? By definition, the border between Europe and Asia is formed by the Caucasus watershed. That places Elbrus in Europe because it lies on the northern side of the watershed in Russia, the European part of the Caucasus. According to this definition there is no doubt about the highest point of our continent.

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Russia – Elbrus

I climbed Elbrus as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I flew to Russia with my father and my friend Alča. We met at the Istanbul airport and arrived together to the Mineralnye Vody airport. There we didn’t stay long. We took a taxi (very cheap – 4500 RUR for 180 km) to Terskol, a mountain village and main center of the Caucasus mountains.

When we arrived we couldn’t find our pre-booked accommodation for a while. Google Maps were showing the wrong spot. I wasn’t surprised because I had similar experiences in other Eastern European countries. It would be interesting to know why Google Maps often show inaccurate information from these countries. However, helpful locals showed us the way so we easily found our cozy guest house. We were tired after a long journey so we fell asleep at eight o’clock, accompanied by lightning and rain.

Acclimatization is the key to success

For the next day we planned an acclimation climb to Chezem mountain (3,461 m). We took a lift in Terskol to 3,095 m and took a nice hike to the peak. Chezem seemed to be very near. But it wasn’t. Even at this altitude nothing comes for free. It took us about an hour and a half to reach it. All in all, it was a very nice acclimatization walk. We warmed up our muscles and we were rewarded with a magnificent view of both “Elbrus’ breasts”.

We decided to stay on the top as long as possible to acclimatize as much as possible. In the end we spent over two hours sunbathing and watching the surrounding snow-capped peaks. We were happy to climb Elbrus. All the other mountains in the area were much sharper, which would mean a technically more demanding climb.

A photo with a description of climb to Elbrus — *This will be our climb*

Next day we were ready. Time to move towards Elbrus. We ordered a taxi that took us to village Azau, the starting point to Europe’s highest mountain. There you have three options how to get up. Either you can take the old cable car, the new cable car, or you can climb your own. The village of Azau is only 2,350 meters above sea level, which means that you have to overcome an altitude of 3,350 meters to the top of Elbrus. Given that the path led along the cable car all the time we decided to use the invention of today’s civilization.

Visual description of climb to Elbrus — *A “beautiful” painting but useful map for the upcoming climb at the old cable car entrance*

Sleeping in a container

We took the new cable car and after two changes we reached the height of 3,800 m above sea level. The only climbers we saw from the cable car were soldiers on duty. The container village of Garabashi lies just next to the end of the highest lift. We started searching for accommodation. It didn’t take us a long time. We found a free container with eight beds in a few minutes. We were lucky. For 800 rubles a night we got the whole container just for ourselves. Traveling before the high season showed its advantages.

Container housing at Elbrus base camp -picture inside — *This will be our home for the following days*

The accommodation was very modest. We actually didn’t expect anything in the container except for the beds. But we were surprised that there is electricity and heating in the end. It looks like we won’t freeze. It was also great that there was also a café at the top of the lift so we could order both food and drinks and save our food supplies.

We wanted to take it easy the first day to get used to the altitude but we were feeling good and were a bit bored so we took a walk to Maria Shelter – the last container village at an altitude of 4,100 m. It took us an hour to get there. The beautiful sunny day wasn’t only perfect because of passing snowcats which were taking Russian tourists to a height of 5,000 meters.

Container housing at Elbrus base camp -picture from outside — *Maria Shelter at 4,100 m*

We decided to relax at Maria Shelter for a while but we couldn’t stay long. A very strong wind arrived. It was so cold that we decided to return. How hard can it blow on the top when it is already so windy here? We returned to our container just before the arrival of the next afternoon storm.

The next day we planned to acclimatize by ascending to Pastukhov Rocks at the altitude of 4,700 meters. We were feeling well again. However, when we entered a cloud at an altitude of 4,400 meters, the temperature suddenly dropped and we were freezing. Despite that we managed to get to 4,700 meters but we couldn’t get any higher. The wind was too strong. On the way down another storm arrived and it started to hail. We were returning while covering our faces from painful hail.

View after the storm of beautiful sunset under Elbrus — *View after the storm*

The weather wasn’t looking good even for the following days. The wind was supposed to grow even stronger and clouds with snow settled on the top. The only thing we could do was playing cards in our container and walking up and down the same route to acclimatize. The weather forecast showed that the next weather gap might come in three days. Then we can hopefully climb Elbrus.

From Azau to Elbrus

My father and friend Alča planned to acclimatize during the following days. I felt acclimatized enough (my previous climb to Dufourspitze definitely helped) and was bored by going up and down the same path all the time so I was looking for an alternative program for the next two days. In the end I decided to climb the part from village Azau to Garabaši where I “cheated” by going up with the cable car at the beginning. At an altitude below 4,000 meters bad weather shouldn’t matter. In the worst case I will get wet. I won’t melt. I’m not made of sugar.

Hike from Azau to Garabaši and a viewpoint to Azau — *Hike from Azau to Garabaši*

I did as I had planned. I went down with the first cable car. When I reached the village Azau I bought some extra food supplies since our stay on Elbrus will be longer and started to climb up the ski slope. I enjoyed my hike. There were very nice views. I was even lucky with the weather. The rain and fog showed up as late as when I reached the second last cable car station – Mir at 3,500 m. It actually didn’t rain. It looked like an apocalypse. The thunderstorm brought all rain, hail and snow and I realized I am actually partly made of sugar.

Crazy weather on Elbrus

Luckily I found one open café where I could take shelter. I wanted to wait for better weather but it was still raining cats and dogs for an hour. What will I do? The café was closing and I was ready to continue climbing up in the insane weather but I was saved outside by a snowcat. It was going up with supplies. I was a little ashamed that I have to “cheat” again but the weather was really bad.

The next morning we woke up to a sunny day but the wind was still too strong for climbing Elbrus. That’s why I decided to complete my last day’s interrupted climb. I returned to Mir where the snowcat saved me last night and continued climbing up to Garabaši. This time there were no obstacles.

*Hiking in good weather on Elbrus is easy*

When I got back to our container we checked the weather forecast again. It looked like it should finally be good weather for the summit on the following day. We decided to move to the highest container village – Maria Shelter and attempt to climb Elbrus the following day.

Going up around noon with a heavy backpack was nothing pleasant. The sky was clear and the sun was burning. Exactly how I imagine staying in the desert – with the only difference, here you have to carry all the winter gear. The climb was not long, but it exhausted me anyway. I was glad I didn’t have to do anything for the rest of the day. Just relax and finally get ready for the climb to Elbrus.

The forecast really looked great. There should be a big storm from afternoon to midnight but then it should windless and cloudless for two days. It was supposed to be cold (around -15°C) but this shouldn’t be a problem with no wind. It sounded like ideal conditions for an ascent.

We prepared everything we needed and went to bed at eight in the evening to get some rest before the alarm clock would ring at midnight. We were falling asleep during the loudest storm of our whole stay in Russia. That was forecast though. It will surely leave before midnight.

Blizzard at Elbrus

We woke up at midnight but the thunderstorm was still there. It was still very strong so we decided to move the alarm clock by an hour. We woke up later at 1 a.m. but the storm hadn’t changed. Still snowing and thundering. This time we decided to get up. The storm will disappear before we finish breakfast.

We took a tea and oatmeal with dried fruits. We ate everything quickly and prepared to leave. It was positive that the thunder and lightning disappeared. On the other hand it was still snowing heavily and the wind seemed to be even stronger. Since the forecast was predicting a nice sunny day, we decided to try it anyway with the hope that the storm would leave soon.

We started to climb up but it was difficult. There was about thirty centimeters of new snow. Although two groups set out for their climbs before us we had no chance of finding their tracks. Too heavy snowfall.

Weather won this time

We were very slow (actually twice slower than during our acclimatization ascents) and the weather was still not getting better. We continued up in the dark and blizzard. Suddenly we heard a snowcat. Russian climbers decided to simplify their climb and go by the snowcat up to 5,000 meters above sea level. However, the huge amount of new snow was tough even for the snowcat. It passed us but turned around soon. The driver saw that it would be impossible to climb Elbrus that day and returned back to the barrel village. When we saw the snowcat failure we decided to give up as well and returned to bed.

Insane storm on Elbrus — *The storm was completely insane*

Next day we woke up in the most beautiful weather. The fresh snow created beautiful scenery but we felt bad because of our fail. Last night mother nature showed us its power. Luckily, we had one more opportunity the following day, on the last day of our Russian visa. The weather was supposed to be prefect and even with no storm the night before. Now or never!

Last chance to climb Elbrus

Next day we woke up into a clear night with no wind. These were the conditions we have been waiting and hoping for. We took a quick breakfast and started to climb up. Everything went incomparably better than the previous night. This time we started at a pace of 350 elevation meters per hour. We passed other groups which set out to the summit earlier, and enjoyed the peace of a beautiful mountain night. The only thing that disturbed the climb was again the snowmobiles taking up lazy tourists as close as possible to the top.

Fantastic view from 5000m at Elbrus — *Today or never. View from ca 5,000 m* *of elevation*

The higher we were the colder it got. We had to put on our down jackets and took some hot tea. It warmed us up except our frozen feet. We have to continue climbing up and wait for the sun to rise. Then it will be warm.

At 5,000 meters the sun finally rose above the horizon and started to warm our frozen bodies. There the road for snowcats ended too. Now it’s going to be beautiful. With the sun and without hum of annoying snowmobiles. Our speed dropped with every hundred meters of altitude. From 5,000 meters we took a short break after every 20 steps to properly oxygenate the body. With this pace we were still one of the fastest groups. Especially larger groups with Russian mountain guides were moving at a really snail pace. I think I would freeze. I was glad to have read the warnings on various blogs beforehand: We don’t recommend ordering local guides.

At the elevation of 5,100 meters we had to take a longer break. Alča got a headache due to the altitude. She took one ibuprofen, took a lot of water and we continued.

The final push to Elbrus

At the altitude of 5,300 meters we finally got to the valley between the Eastern and Western Peak. There was no wind and a pleasantly warm sun and the climbers took advantage of it. They were taking the last break and snack before the final ascent. We couldn’t resist and also took a short break

The final climb and last 300 elevation meters were the steepest. There was even a fixed rope that most climbers used to secure themselves. From the last break we were climbing up really slowly – 10 steps − pause − 10 steps − pause. After an hour we finally reached the horizon and saw the summit. Now it will be easy. The last passage is almost without elevation.

Selfie from the top of Elbrus — *We made it. This is the view from the top*

The weather was still great so we had very nice views. The last part was a nice alpine walk. We reached the top among the first climbers, though just after a large group of back-country skiers so we had to queue for our summit selfie. But we didn’t care. It was a beautiful day so we enjoyed the views. On one side we could see the vast Russian lowland and on the other sharp Georgian peaks. I wouldn’t mind if time stopped for a while. This moment was amazing. After nine troubled days we had finally reached the top of Elbrus. It was the last day our visas were valid. We wouldn’t get any other opportunity during this visit.

Now there is another challenge. Our flight from Mineralny Vody is leaving in 14 hours. Fortunately, it was very easy to descend in this beautiful weather. I managed to descend to the Maria Shelter just in 1 hour and 30 minutes. Then we just took three lifts and a taxi and we could still make a toast with Russian vodka at the airport. Mission completed!

My tips for climbing the mountain Elbrus:

The way to the top of Elbrus from the south is not technically demanding. One can even climb to the top without ropes. The path is perfectly marked but it is very important not to leave the trail. If you don’t follow the route you can easily end up in a crevasse.
This is only valid in good weather. In poor visibility, strong wind or snow one can easily get lost as we could see the previous day.
Do not underestimate acclimatization!
Although you can find information on the internet that you don’t need your own sleeping bag to stay in the container villages I highly recommend to bring it. You do not want to use old blankets used by numerous climbers before you.
Although some barrels offer kitchenettes, do not rely on them and bring your own cooking equipment.
Avoid large groups with Russian mountain guides. Their clients are often badly acclimatized.

Aerial view of the highest peak in Moldova - Dealul Balanesti

June 25, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest peak of Moldova – Dealul Balanesti

Statistics say that Moldova is the poorest country in Europe, the country is visited by the least tourists and the average European probably knows very little about Moldova. These were the reasons why I was looking forward to visiting this country. How is the visit of the country’s highest point Dealul Bălănești (also sometimes called Bălănești hill)? This article will give you all important information of the highest point of Moldova, including my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Moldova – Dealul Bălănești

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Food and drinks in Bălănești, accommodation hard to find, spend nights in the capital Chisinau
Height of the peak: 430 m
Hiking distance: 1.9 km 
Elevation on the way to the top: 177 m
Time to ascend to  Bălănești: 0,5-1 hour up, 0,5-1 hour down 
Water availability on the mountain: village Bălănești
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Chișinău Specială Tare *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Dealul Bălănești

My story of reaching Dealul Bălănești with personal tips

I visited the highest point of Moldova as a part of the European Peaks project during which I climbed the highest point of every European country. My journey started in the Moldovan capital Chisinau where I arrived from the Ukrainian village Vorokhta. It wasn’t a short trip. My friends and I had to use four different means of transport (train, bus, trolley bus and taxi). Since I enjoyed travelling by Ukrainian trains (as described in the previous article), I was looking forward even to this trip. However, I soon found out that the enjoyment won’t apply to Ukrainian-Moldovan night buses.

Potholes and constant turns didn’t allow me to asleep for a minute and when I finally managed we just came to the border where we had to spend over two hours for the customs inspection of our bus. How I missed Schengen! In the end we reached Chisinau after 16 hours. Fortunately, another former classmate Kurt was waiting for us in Chisinau. He fixed accommodation in a nice hotel in the city center, right next to the bus stop so we could go to sleep directly after our arrival.

The largest winery in the world

When we woke up we wanted to learn about Chisinau on a local free guided tour. The problem was that there is no such thing in Chisinau. Just another confirmation that only a few tourists visit the country. We had to look for an alternative program. In the end we decided for a visit of the largest wine cellar in the world – Cricova.

Cricova had been the largest producer of wine in the Soviet Union (up to half of the production was made here) and continued growing even after its collapse. Today, its cellars are as large as a medium-sized city. There are 110 kilometers of roads underground and hundreds of storage rooms for wine. The tour was interesting. We visited multiple storage rooms as well as presidential halls where significant guests such as Merkel or Putin tasted local wines.

Fancy wines in this underground street of Cricova winery — *You’ll find a lot of fancy wines in this underground street*

Not surprisingly, we looked forward to the tasting held at the end of the tour. During the tasting ceremony we could test four wines and I must say that I was surprised by the quality of Moldovan wines. I will not list all the flavors of citrus, nuts, ginger, chocolate and olives which I should have recognized according to the guide but I definitely liked the wines a lot.

A little party never killed nobody

Tasting table at Cricova winery — *Tasting is ready*

As we got curious about other wines too, we also visited the local restaurant afterwards. We got lucky. There were no guests so the staff offered us one of the presidential halls. There we continued tasting exceptional wines.

I don’t know if the waiter knew what the risks were, but we were suggested to play our own music in the hall. At first the music created a pleasant atmosphere. After a few bottles of wine though, the guests started to sing along. At first it was calm singing, but when the Queen’s song Bohemian Rhapsody occurred on the playlist the guests couldn’t control the volume anymore. Waiter Juraj started to regret his offer but he didn’t turn the music off, just professionally told us that other guests would be glad to enjoy their dinner in quiet. This remark was enough for us to stop our presidential party.

Our luxury party ended but there was one more point in our program. We found out that Ladislav Zibura, one of the most famous Czech travelers and writers, is in the city and he invited us to dinner with local Czechs working for non-profit organizations. At this unusual Czech meeting in Chişinău everyone initially looked serious. We talked about the serious issues of poverty and other major problems Moldova has been dealing with. After a few drinks, however, the conversation turned to more cheerful topics and the party was soon on. We continued to local clubs where our friend Kurt, the winner of the Star Dance contest, turned the evening into the biggest party of my expedition.

Unexpected trips are always the best

Selfie in Tiraspol, Transinistria — *Unexpected* visit of Transinistria

During the party I was feeling like there couldn’t be a better preparation for climbing the highest mountain in Moldova but I changed my mind in the morning. I was so hangover that I couldn’t drive. I will need a one day break which we filled in by a trip to Transnistria, a de facto independent country.

Easter on the Moldovan countryside

Village Bălănești below the highest peak of Moldova — *Village Bălănești below the highest peak of the country*

The plan worked out. I was ready the next day. I rented a car, picked up my new friend Klára and finally went on a trip to Dealul Bălănești. We passed a lot of socialist architectural gems (huge concrete buildings) and soon left the city. In the Moldovan countryside I was most impressed by the number of decorated wells and bizarre bus stops. It looked like there is a competition in Moldova for the most decorated stop/well in Moldova. It must be difficult to choose the winner.

Old lady in Moldovan shop — *Babushka sitting in a small grocery store in Bălăneşti*

In an hour and a half we arrived to the village of Bălăneşti, the starting point for the short hike to Dealul Bălănești. I was surprised that we drove on mostly new roads. Impressive. We parked close to the local grocery store where we bought an Easter cake and continued to the peak. We had a pleasant walk, passed several nice country houses with colorful fences, blooming trees, another well and a local farmer.

Two tourists on the highest point of Moldova — *Cheers on the highest point of Moldova*

The peak was already near. We reached it in a few minutes and enjoyed a beautiful spring day. There we had a small picnic with beer and an Easter cake. A nice end of the Moldovan trip.

My tips for climbing the mountain Dealul Bălănești:

There are several hiking trails around the summit. Browse the beautiful Moldovan countryside.
Be aware which car you rent. Even though the road to Bălănești was 95% on asphalt there was a short part on a dirt road. After heavy rain it might be very muddy.
Visit the Cricova winery. It is a great cultural and tasting experience.

View from the highest point of Ukraine - Hoverla

June 18, 2023 • 0 Comment

Practical guide to the highest mountain of Ukraine – Hoverla

The Carpathians are a large mountain range spreading from Poland to Ukraine and they offer amazing hiking opportunities in many countries. The eastern Carpathians aren’t an exception. In Ukraine we can find peaks over 2,000 meters high. How is the hike to the highest mountain Hoverla with its peak at 2,061 meters? In this article, I will provide you with all important information you need before your visit including my personal experience.

The best route to Hoverla

There are two popular routes to Hoverla. Both of them start at the mountain settlement Zarosliak which you can reach by car or taxi from the village Vorokhta. From there, you can follow either the green or blue path. Both are similarly long and difficult. I would recommend the green path though, because it’s a bit more gentle and it offers better views on the final ridge between Mala Hoverla (little Hoverla) and Hoverla.

Map of the climb to Hoverla

Important information for climbing Hoverla

Short description of the ascent from Pec pod Sněžkou: Moderate hike
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: At the start of the hike
Height of the peak: 2,061 m
Hiking distance: 3.3 km 
Time to ascend to Hoverla: 1,5-2,5 hours up, 1-2 hours down 
Elevation climbed: 790 m 
Water availability on the mountain: Only at the start of the hike
Difficulty level: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Putin Huilo ****** (6 stars maximum)

My story of climbing Hoverla with personal tips

To reach the Ukrainian mountains, my friends and I wanted to take an interesting night train from Minsk, Belarus to Lviv. Unfortunately, such a journey is impossible due to the complicated Belarusian visa requirements. If you want to visit Belarus without a visa, you must enter and leave the country via Minsk airport. That’s why we had to take a 500-kilometer-long flight to Lviv, becoming the most unnecessary ecological footprint of my expedition.

Travelling to Hoverla in a moving museum

Hoverla is located about 200 kilometers from Lviv, so we had another trip ahead. This time we could finally take a train. We arrived to Vorokhta, a village at the foot of Hoverla exactly on time. Ukrainian trains work like Swiss watches. It is just a pity that they do not run as fast as trains in Switzerland. It still took us six and a half hours to pass 200 km. Anyway, traveling by Ukrainian trains was a great experience. It is like travelling by a living “skansen”.

Lviv train station — *Boarding the train in Lviv*

The next day we were looking forward to climbing the highest Ukrainian mountain. Since April nights in Ukraine are still very cold and there is still a lot of snow in the mountains, we didn’t want to climb the mountain in the morning when the surface would be slippery. We didn’t have any crampons with us and you can’t hire any in Vorokhta. So we decided to climb Hoverla after lunch.

Aerial view of village Vorokhta and Ukrainian mountains — *Vorokhta from above*

After eating a delicious potato pancake we called a taxi to go to the starting point of the hike to Hoverla – Zarosliak. Oleg who has worked on various projects in the Czech Republic for eleven years came with his taxi to pick us up. He could speak Czech fluently so we had a nice conversation. Apparently Oleg was pleased with his life in Ukraine, he was just complaining a bit about bad local roads and politicians who always promise to repair them but never do.

Rules are rules

In thirty minutes we arrived to the gate of the Carpathian National Park. We woke up a local guard of the national park and asked him to open the gate for us. However, he didn’t want to give us permission: “There was a big accident two weeks ago. Four tourists got lost in the fog and died in an avalanche.”

Unfortunately he didn’t listen to our arguments that we are experienced mountaineers, that there is beautiful weather and that I climbed the mountain three years ago. He just added: “If you want to climb Hoverla you have to come tomorrow in the morning. Then the snow will be frozen and safe. Goodbye.” He closed the door and continued sleeping. Tomorrow is a day too.

Spring flowers in Ukrainian mountains — *Spring has already arrived to Ukraine*

We woke up very early the next day because we had to climb Hoverla, get back to Vorokhta and take the train towards Moldova, the next stop of my expedition. We found the guard of the national park sleeping again. However, this time he opened the gate and let us in without problems. Today we will conquer Hoverla!

Carpathian National Nature Park

From the gate, the road began to twist upward. The road was in a surprisingly good shape but snow showed up after a few kilometers. At first, there were some remains of winter, but after a while the wheels of the taxi disappeared in half a meter of deep snow. Several times we had to get out and dig up the tires.

After an hour we got to Zarosliak, a village at 1,250 m above sea level. It used to be a famous mountain village boasting of a large ski jump. The famous times are though over. Both the ski jump and the hotel nearby are deteriorating. At this time of the year even all the shops were closed. The whole area seemed to be empty.

Ruins of Zarosliak ski jump in Ukraine — *Remainings of former ski jump centre*

We started our hike towards Hoverla. We soon realized we are not the only ones doing a winter climb. It was obvious that several people climbed the summit during the previous days since there were many traces in snow. This was good. Thanks to the trails in the snow our ascent was easier.

The best beer of my expedition

Beautiful river Hoverla — *River Hoverla at the beginning of the hike*

The hike was not particularly demanding. We managed to get to the top in just two hours. It was a beautiful spring day and we enjoyed amazing views of the Eastern Carpathians with beer Putin Huilo (btw the best beer of my expedition) from the Pravda brewery in Lviv and cheered to our successful ascent.

Peak selfie from Hoverla mountain — *Peak selfie*

On the way back to Zarosliak we were sad that we didn’t have skis with us. The slope would be perfect but we checked our backpacks and found plastic bags, another great means of transport. We had a luxurious ride! Thanks to our improvised sledges we passed half the elevation meters just in a few minutes. We were back in Zarosliak at noon, just in time to catch our taxi and train towards Moldova. Ukrainian mission completed!

Aerial view of mountain Hoverla — *Cheers with the best beer of the expedition – Putin Huilo from Pravda brewery*

My tips for climbing the mountain Hoverla

Even though Hoverla is climbable the whole year, be aware that there is a lot of snow during winter. There can be avalanche danger.
Follow the instructions of the national park guards.
If you travel to Ukrainian mountains use the trains. An amazing experience.

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