Winter Archives - The Best Viewpoints

Strong northern lights in the snowy landscape of northern Sweden

April 17, 2024 • 0 Comment

Your ultimate guide for Kungsleden in winter

Do you know where you can experience one of Europe’s last true wildernesses? If you haven’t heard of the mythical Kungsleden (translated as the King’s Trail) in northern Sweden, read carefully. It’s a 470 km long trail from Hemavan to Abisko that leads through a beautiful unspoiled mountain landscape full of vast lakes, high mountains and deep valleys. The trail is very popular in summer, but you can experience the greatest adventure on Kungsleden in winter. My friend Rikki and I decided to explore the most interesting part of the trail, the 107 km journey from Abisko along Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise, to Nikkaluokta to see what this winter adventure entails.

How to get to Kungsleden?

Most visitors of Kungsleden start their journey in Abisko. The most convenient way to get there is to ﬂy to Stockholm Arlanda airport, and then take a direct overnight train right at the airport train station, which will take you to the starting point at the Abisko Turiststation stop. You will very likely meet other winter enthusiasts in the train and spend valuable time talking about upcoming adventures with them. The train offers comfortable beds so you can rest well before you wake up right at the start of the adventure.

Another and slightly quicker option is to ﬂy to Kiruna, Sweden via Stockholm Arlanda airport. From Kiruna you can take a bus and train to Abisko. However, I don’t recommend this option if you have a lot of equipment with you. Because of the multiple transfers, this option is less convenient.

The way back depends on where you ﬁnish your journey on Kungsleden. In our case, we ended up in Nikkaluokta, from where we took a bus to the station in Kiruna. From there we took again the overnight train to the airport in Stockholm.

Abisko National Park and its frozen river covered by snow — *The expedition starts in the beautiful Abisko National Park, where you can wander along the frozen river Abisko*

Where to sleep on Kungsleden in winter?

In winter, 99% of visitors stay overnight in local mountain huts, which can be found every 10 to 20 km along the way. You can ﬁnd a complete list of them on the Swedish Tourist Association’s (STF) website. These huts offer cozy accommodation that is usually simple but functional. For a fee of 500 SEK (in 2024 if you are a member of the STF) you get everything you need in this inhospitable and frozen landscape. If you’re planning on staying inside, it’s deﬁnitely recommended to become an STF member before your trip, as you’ll get signiﬁcant discounts at all the huts along the way. The huts offer all the essentials you need during your winter adventure:

Sleeping rooms: Huts offer shared sleeping rooms, usually in the form of dormitories. They are equipped with mattresses, duvets and pillows, but you have to bring your own bedding. I recommend a lightweight summer sleeping bag to ensure warmth and comfort.
Kitchen facilities: Basic cooking equipment such as cookers, pots, pans and utensils are available in the cottages so tourists can bring their own food and prepare it there.
Drinking water supply: The cottages have drinking water sources that visitors can use for drinking and cooking. However, water must be brought from a water source that may be up to a kilometre away. Housekeepers will show you how to get the water. It’s an exciting activity and it will be one of your favourite adventures on the trip.
Shop: Huts sell a basic range of food. Check the Swedish Tourist Board STF website in advance for the current offer.
Limited electricity and lighting: Be prepared for that there is no electricity in the cottages. You can charge your batteries only with your own power banks which are necessary for this trip. In the evening kerosene lamps and candles are used as sources of light.
Information: Some lodges have satellite internet access so visitors can get additional weather information, which is often crucial for planning the following days.
Toilets and sanitary facilities: There are dry toilets at the villages and saunas are used for washing. Before entering the sauna, you can wash yourself with warm water from barrels.

Aurora borealis over the huts in the Sámi village Abiskojaure — *Aurora borealis over the huts in the second stop Abiskojaure*

TIP FOR PEOPLE WHO PLAN TO SLEEP IN A TENT: You can also use the cabins even if you don’t want to stay overnight. For a fee of SEK 200 (per person per day in 2024) you can sleep in a tent next to the villages and use all the services listed above. This makes it a great alternative for adventurers who decide to go on Kungsleden with their own tent and sledge. This was also our case, and we were only going to use the huts for overnight stays in case of emergency or bad weather.

It worked out very well. In the end we managed to stay all nights outside but we sometimes took advantage of the facilities of local huts. They were very comfortable and cozy. It was very nice to warm up for a while and to make delicious food inside.

*Winter camping on Kungsleden is an unforgettable experience*

What is the best route for Kungsleden in winter?

In winter, the route is some kilometers shorter than in summer, because the lakes on Kungsleden are all covered in ice and snow. This is a nice advantage compared to summer but as you have to carry more equipment, the journey is much more demanding and therefore slower than in summer. We wanted to try the most popular and most beautiful part of Kungsleden so we set out for a trip from Abisko to Nikkaluokta. This is the most common itinerary:

Day 1: From Abisko to Abiskojaure: The ﬁrst day is a warm-up. You will only have 13 km to go with a gentle climb of around 100 elevation meters.
Day 2: From Abiskojaure to Alesjaure: The second day is the most challenging of the entire journey to Nikkaluokta. You have to prepare for a 20 km long trip and 400 elevation meters.
Day 3: From Alesjaure to Tjäktja hut: The third critical day is fortunately not that long. However, you have to prepare for a steeper climb of 300 elevation meters at the end. Look forward to this day because the Tjäktja hut offers fantastic views and perfect view to the north so you have an amazing chance to see northern lights from here.
Day 4: From Tjäktja to Sälka: Not far from the Tjäktja hut, you will reach the highest point of the whole trip – the Tjäktja Pass. Here you will be exactly halfway on the way from Abisko to Nikkaluokta. At the pass you can rest in an emergency shelter before the biggest descent of the whole trip. This is the only place of the whole trip where the descent is steep, so be careful when descending this 2 km downhill. The whole route from Tjäktja to Sälka is 13 km long and you will climb 150 m right at the start and then you can look forward to descending 350 m.
Day 5: From Sälka to Singi: The shortest day is only 12 km long, with 80 m of elevation gain and 190 m of descent. It is the easiest day of the whole trip so you can take it easy and take a longer relax in the beautiful valley where Singi lies. It’s good to have one short day in the itinerary because this day also serves as a reserve day in case it isn’t possible to move on any of the previous days due to tough weather conditions. Yes, it sometimes happens due to a storm. It can happen that you have to stay the whole day in a hut and then make a longer stretch and manage a trip from Tjäktja to Singi in one day for instance.
Day 6: From Singi to Kebnekaise fjällstation: This 15 km long route leads over a pass with a beautiful view and then through a deep valley to the foot of Sweden’s highest mountain, Kebnekaise. This is my favorite day of the whole journey as it offers fantastic views over the Kebnekaise massif.
Day 7: From Kebnekaise Fjällstation to Nikkaluokta: The last day is very long, ca 20 km and probably the least interesting. That’s why most tourists decide to shorten this route and pass it on snowmobiles to catch a bus from Nikkalookakta to Kiruna, which awkwardly runs only once a day at 12:00 sharp.

Tent in the valley under Kebnekaise and under northern lights at Kungsleden in winter — *Wonderful northern lights above our tent at a valley nearby Kebnekaise fjällstation*

You can see from the route description above that the whole route is mostly ﬂat or with just a small up/downhill. However, if you carry a lot of equipment, you will feel the 300 meters of altitude in your body. We deﬁnitely did!

If you’re planning to travel with a tent, you have a slight advantage. You are much more ﬂexible and can adjust your daily mileage depending on how you feel. In fact, you are allowed to camp anywhere in Sweden as long as you set a tent at least 150 m from a household. The only exception is national parks so be careful with planning your first two days. During these you will be hiking in Abisko National Park and you are only allowed to camp in designated areas, namely right next to the Abisko STF hut in Abiskojaure and at a designated camping site called Nissonjokk. Nissonjokk is the only place out of these three where you don’t have to pay for the tenting spot (in Abisko and in Abiskojaure, it costs 200 SEK to tent and you can use the facilities).

When is the best time to visit Kungsleden in winter?

Compared to the the rest of Europe, the winter season in northern Sweden starts much later. This is due to the short days in December and January and the extremely cold weather then. In 2024, the local huts were open between 16/2 and 21/4. Which date to choose? My recommendation is the end of March.

At the end of March temperatures tend to be more comfortable than in the second half of February or during early March and the days are already long enough to manage your daily trips. The end of March is also great when it comes to the chance of seeing the Northern Lights. On the contrary, April nights are already short so there is smaller chance of seeing the Northern Lights and you don’t want to miss them. It’s one of the biggest attractions of a every Kungsleden trip. If you want to know more about northern lights, check out my article Practical Guide to see Northern Lights.

Climb from Abiskojaure to Alesjaure rewards you with beautiful views — *The longest climb from Abiskojaure to Alesjaure rewards you with beautiful views*

Weather on Kungsleden in winter

In winter, the weather on Kungsleden can be very harsh and unpredictable, which is why this route requires thorough preparation and proper equipment. Be prepared for very low temperatures. In winter, temperatures on the Kungsleden can be well below freezing. Temperatures below -10°C or even -20°C are not at all unusual.

However, the low temperatures aren’t the biggest challenge on Kungsleden. Severe cold weather is manageable. Do you know what is important to be careful about? Strong winds and gales. They are very frequent on Kungsleden and they dramatically reduce the “feels like” temperature.

Another thing to watch out for is avalanches. Heavy snowfall and wind can also cause avalanche danger. Most of the King’s Trail is off avalanche terrain, but be sure to check with local huts for current avalanche conditions.

It might sound like I would like to scare you off coming to Kungsleden in this paragraph but I didn’t mean it. There are also beautiful sunny days on Kungsleden during which you can enjoy views of the amazing Scandinavian landscapse. Be ready also for this weather and don’t forget sun cream and proper sunglasses.

To summarise the weather on Kungsleden, you need be prepared for both sunny weather and extremely cold conditions. The weather can change quickly on Kungsleden, so be prepared for variable conditions. Check the weather at each station before your every day adventure and be prepared for anything.

*Frozen author of this article sends greetings to his readers from Tjäktja pass*

What is better? Snowshoes or skis on King’s Trail in winter?

As you probably guess, there is a lot of snow on Kungsleden in winter, so it isn’t possible to set out on such adventure in common hiking shoes. Instead, you need to consider whether to bring snowshoes or skis. My girlfriend and I tested part of the Kungsleden on snowshoes in the past and it wasn’t a bad choice. However, we were in the vast minority using snowshoes and we were much slower than skis. In fact, only foreign visitors use snowshoes.

This time we tested Kungsleden on skis as 99% of the locals do, and we quickly understood why locals don’t use snowshoes. Skis are much faster and comfortable and you can also enjoy the downhills. Snowshoes are better in very steep terrains but it isn’t the case of Kungsleden. You don’t have to worry about challenging up/downhills here. Most of the trail is ﬂat and you’ll only have to pass gentle ascents and descents.

Kungsleden in winter with beautiful view of Sweden't highest point Kebnekaise — *Kungsleden in winter also offered us a beautiful view of Sweden’t highest point Kebnekaise – the highest peak behind us*

Equipment on winter King’s Trail

For a winter expedition beyond the Arctic Circle, proper equipment is necessary. To enjoy Kungsleden and to feel comfortable, it’s necessary to have especially warm clothing. My recommendation is to have several layers ready and you adjust these according to the current temperature. We had moments on our trip when it was sunny and windless with temperatures just below freezing. During these times we were ascending in just T-shirts. On the other hand, we experienced conditions with strong headwinds the following day, when the temperature also dropped by twenty degrees. In such conditions I used two down jackets and several layers underneath. I know I repeat myself but be ready for various weather conditions.

Skier and his sledge on Kungsleden in winter — *Here you can see a skier and his full equipment in a sledge in one picture*

Best experiences and secret tips for winter Kungsleden

Since we wanted to experience winter Kungsleden with carrying our own tent and sleeping outside in the wilderness, we definitely didn’t have a shortage of experiences. Here are the ones which we will never forget and wish you could experience too:

107 km and 107 kg: There is a scale at the starting point at the STF hut in Abisko where both summer and winter hikers/skiers weigh their backpacks or other luggage before setting off. My friend Rikki and I measured 107 kg. A fateful number! That’s exactly how many kilometers we were going to cover on the trip to Nikkaluokta. Will we manage to carry over 50 kg on every sledge? Fortunately, we could say at the end of Kungsleden: Yes! Thanks to the sledge that glides smoothly over the snow, it isn’t as tough as it may seem! If you plan to bring a lot of gear, deﬁnitely rent a sledge at Abisko STF hut. But beware of the necessary reservations! You have to book a sledge a long time in advance. In 2024, the sledges were already booked six months in advance.
Aurora Borealis: We were lucky and managed to see Northern Lights every other day. It’s indescribable beauty. To see a strong aurora, I summarize all necessary tips in this aurora guide.
Sauna: The saunas are deﬁnitely the most pleasant bonus of the local huts. You will never forget jumping into a frozen lake or into the snow in -20 degrees after a few minutes in a hot sauna. Just be aware that not all of the huts offer a sauna experience. You will find a sauna in all the huts except Tjäktja and Singi.
Extreme conditions in Tjäktja Pass: The timing of strong winds couldn’t be worse on our journey. The windiest day was forecasted for the highest point of the journey in the Tjäktja Pass. We had to get up at 4 am to avoid the strongest winds, which were expected around noon. How it paid off! We had harsh conditions anyway as we were hit by such strong winds that icicles were being formed in our beards. But we managed to conquer the Tjäktja pass. Be sure to watch the forecast ahead and adjust your wake-up call accordingly to avoid the strongest winds. Some other expeditions didn’t obey the forecast and didn’t make it via Tjäktja pass and had to stay one more day at Tjäktja.
Photography: if you are a keen photographer, you will love winter Kungsleden. There is wonderful scenery every day and it’s fascinating to photograph the changeable weather. But don’t forget to bring spare batteries and power banks. Unfortunately, there is no place on the way where you can charge your batteries. You can charge everything as soon as you reach Kebnekaise fjällstation.

Beautiful landscape during sunrise of Kungsleden in winter — *Beautiful landscapes and views will accompany you on the whole journey*

Book a guided tour from Abisko to Nikkaluokta

Would you like to experience Kungsleden in winter and don’t have enough experience? I’m planning to organize a guided tour from Abisko to Nikkaluokta next year at the end of March! We will be doing the trip on skis with overnight stays in all the huts on the way. Are you interested? Drop me an email at info@jardazaoral.com and I’ll come back to you with more information.

Sunset in mountains around Åre next to a mountain hut

March 24, 2024 • 0 Comment

Best Snowshoe and Ski Touring Trips in Åre

Åre is a Swedish winter paradise. You can enjoy there all kinds of skiing thanks to wonderful mountains and a snow guarantee. In this article, we skip cross country skiing and downhill skiing and we will focus on reaching mountains with amazing viewpoints. If you like to spend time in wonderful nature without crowds and without avalanche danger, this is an article for you. Try these snowshoe or ski touring trips in Åre, which are also suitable for beginners.

Snowshoes or Ski touring?

Both snowshoe hiking and ski touring belong to my favourite winter activities, as they are a lot of fun! If you would like to try either of these activities for the first time, there are many rental shops in Åre. Snowshoe hiking is easy regarding technique and skills. You simply put them on your hiking shoes and go. Ski touring on the other hand needs decent downhill skiing skills. If you can handle a red slope well, you should be alright on these trips too. The advantage of skis compared to snowshoes is of course the downhill. You can be down much faster and enjoy it at the same time! All of the trips mentioned below are easy enough for beginners, but also very nice for more experienced adventurers as they reward you with fantastic views.

Reindeers running during sunset in Åre area, Sweden — *If you visit any of the mountains below you have a big chance to see reindeers too! I met them at every mountain 🙂*

What is the best time for snowshoe and ski touring trips?

Since most of the recommended trips lead you partly across skiing slopes, I highly recommend to ascent the mountains before or after lift opening times to avoid crowds and potential collisions with skiers. I made all the trips (except Åreskutan) to see a sunrise/sunset on the top and all of the trips were unforgettable experiences. These times have three main advantages:

You will meet a minimum amount of other people so you can enjoy the mountains on your own.
You will have a bigger chance to see reindeers.
You can admire wonderful light conditions during clear days.

Which month is the best? I recommend March and April when the days are a bit longer and it is also less cold in the mountains.

All the maps below show one way distance of the trips: the way up. Don’t forget to count your way down when planning your timeline, especially when snowshoe hiking. If you are planning to use a lift, remember to count that extra time.

A warm up ascent från Björnen to Förberget

Mountain: Förberget (727 m)
Difficulty: Easy
Ascent: 1,8km; 180m up; 45 min (one way)
Views: Great on the way but there are trees on the top

A great trip to start with is to go up to mountain Förberget above village Björnen. The ascent is very easy but offers beautiful view over Åreskutan. Start by parking at Åre Björnen and go up via the blue slope. Once you are on the top of the lift, continue a bit further and you will reach a top with a tent. I was lucky. When I reached the tent, I got accompanied by 8 small reindeers. It was amazing to admire the mountain Åreskutan with new friends.

Åre Björnen before sunrise during blue hour — Åre Björnen before sunrise

Åreskutan and Åre ski resort catching first sunlight — Åre Björnen before sunrise

The tent is not the highest point of Förberget. As you can see on the map below, it stands a bit aside of the path. To reach it you have to continue a bit further off piste. To be sure you are reaching the correct mountain, I recommend to download the app mapy.cz and follow the directions there.

360 Selfie from the top of Förberget — *Selfie from the top of Förberget*

Reindeers on top of Förberget in front of Åreskutan

Tent on top of Förberget — Reindeers on top of Förberget in front of Åreskutan

Ascent to cosy hut at Välistes topp from Trillevallen

Mountain: Välistes topp (1025m)
Difficulty: Easy
Ascent: 2,6km; 284m up; 1h 15 min (one way)
Views: Fantastic

You can visit the similarly easy mountain Välliste from the small ski resort Trillevallen. The slopes are a bit steeper here but if you take the slope Kärringsvägen (the one most to the right) to the top, which is still relatively easy. Here again, my girlfriend and I witnessed a group of reindeers and also a wonderful sunset! It was -20 but the view was gorgeous. What do you think?

Reindeers at Välliste top in front of Åreskutan, Sweden — *Reindeers at Välliste top in front of Åreskutan. They couldn’t pose at a better spot!*

If you are cold on the top you can also hide in a small hut which stands there. Once I would like to spend a night there and watch northern lights. That must be an amazing experience! What do you think? Look at the view!

Sunset seen from the small hut at Välliste top nearby Åre, Sweden — *What a sunset seen from the small hut at Välliste top*

Blue hour at Välliste top — Sunset at Välliste top

Reindeers during blue hour in Jämtland mountains in front of Åreskutan, Sweden — *Good night reindeers!*

Trip to Duved’s highest peak – Mullfjället

Mountain: Mullfjället (1031m)
Difficulty: Easy
Ascent: 2,2km; 214m up; 1h 4min (one way)
Views: Fantastic

Mullfjället is a bit more remote than the previous two mountains so we took a shortcut up by a lift. That’s the point of snowshoe hiking or ski touring anyway. You don’t want to walk on ski slopes. Our trip started above the ski resort where we could enjoy the untouched nature. Since we took up the last lift of the day we were completely alone in the mountains.

Reindeer in snowscape in åre area, Sweden — *Ok. We were not alone there. We met another reindeer!*

It was very cold (around -15 C) and also very windy so this trip was the toughest but it was so worth it. The views from the top of Mullfjället are wonderful! You can see again the Åreskutan and also the villages Åre and Björnen below.

360 picture at Mullfjället, Åre, Sweden — *There is also a hut on top of Mullfjället where we could hide from the crazy wind and take a break.*

Hut on Mullfjället with view of Åreskutan

View over Åre from Mullfjället — Hut on Mullfjället with view of Åreskutan

Trip to Åre’s highest mountain – Åreskutan

Mountain: Åreskutan (1420m)
Difficulty: Easy
Ascent: 0,9km; 142m up; 24 min (one way)
Views: Fantastic

From all the previous mountains I could admire beautiful Åreskutan. Of course I was also curious about the view from there so I decided to visit it too! Åreskutan is the largest mountain of this small project and it can be a very nice whole day trip up to the top from Åre. If you have limited time like me, you can take up the famous Åre Kabinbana and take a long shortcut. From the highest point of Åre ski resort it’s only an additional 150 elevation meters to climb up.

I was on the way up during mid day on a sunny day and it was not the best choice. Unlike all the mountains above, the mountain was crowded with many skiers. Unfortunately, there is also an option to take up a snowmobile for just 100 SEK from the top of the ski resort and many people take this opportunity.

Cheers from Åreskutan, Sweden with the coldest beer of my life — *Cheers from Åreskutan with the coldest beer of my life*

More ski touring trips in Åre area soon!

These are some easy ski touring trips in Åre to start with. Next time I will come up with some more advanced trips. I can’t wait to try them for you. Keep posted!

March 17, 2024 • 0 Comment

Explore the Jämtland Triangle in winter

Are you looking for a special winter adventure? Try something typically Swedish and explore mountains on back country skis or snowshoes. I recommend the Jämtland Triangle (Jämtlandstriangeln in Swedish) because it’s a nice challenge for both beginners and experienced mountaineers. You can spend three wonderful days in the nature and you can choose if you’ll spend your evenings in comfortable huts on the way or in a tent under northern lights like us. Here are all my tips.

Recommended time to visit: mid February - mid April 
Opening time of huts in 2023: 16 februari – 23 april
Traveling mode: Ski touring or snowshoes
Difficulty: Moderate
Overall Distance: 46.1km 
Overall Elevation: 1133m up and down 
Distance Day 1: 12.1km
Distance Day 2: 18.1km
Distance Day 3: 15.9km
Elevation Day 1: 468m up, 117m down
Elevation Day 2: 562m up, 594m down
Elavation Day 3: 297m up, 606m down
Personal rating of the adventure: ***** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the Jämtland Triangle adventure

What equipment to choose for Jämtland Triangle in winter?

I would strongly recommend not to go just in classic hiking shoes as there can be a lot of snow on this trip in winter. Instead, consider bringing snowshoes or back country skis. My girlfriend and I brought snowshoes since we didn’t have any back country skis at that time. It was fun having snowshoes but the majority of locals were using skis and they all overtook us, even the pensioners. I would recommend them too because they are faster and the terrain isn’t complicated so you won’t experience tough uphills or downhills.

If you consider making this trip more adventurous and would like to tent instead of staying at Blåhammarens Fjällstation and Sylarnas Fjällstation, I recommend to bring a sled (pulka in Swedish) to carry your equipment. We brought heavy backpacks and our backs were suffering on the way. On this trip, we learnt that a winter adventure in Sweden is much better on skis and with a sled than on snowshoes and with classic hiking backpacks.

If you don’t have any equipment, you can also rent everything you need for your winter adventure at the starting point Storulvån Fjällstation. Check the pricelist for renting on their website.

*View of Sylarna fjällstation from mountain Herrklumpen*

The route of Jämtland Triangle

As the name of the trip implies, the route is in shape of a triangle. It starts at Storulvån Fjällstation which is comfortably accessible by car or by bus from Duved train station. Then, the route leads to Blåhammarens Fjällstation and Sylarnas Fjällstation and back to Storulvån Fjällstation. In winter, it’s easy to follow the route as there are sticks with red crosses on the way.

I would just like to warn you for the weather. This trip can be a lot of fun during sunny days but the Jämtland mountains can also surprise with heavy snowstorms. Check out the weather forecast at SMHI before your trip and in case of any warning for the Jämtland mountains, I highly recommend you to postpone your trip.

Winter signs at Jämtlands Triangel — *Follow these signs at Jämtland Triangle*

Highlights of Jämtland Triangle

Views on the way: The whole journey provides wonderful views of Swedish mountains. My favourite part was around the Sylarnas Fjällstation where you have wonderful views over mountains Storsylen and Lillsylen which stand on the Norwegian border.
Mountains to climb on the way: The daily distances aren’t very long so you might have some extra time to climb some mountains on the way. An easy option is Blåhammarkläppen from where you can see far into Norway. Västra Endalshöjden offers wonderful views over the whole Jämtland Triangle and Herrklumpen offers the best view of mountains Lillsylen and Storsylen. If you are an experienced mountaineer you can also climb Lillsylen and Storsylen themselves. These mountains require mountain experience and avalanche awareness. Check the current conditions at Sylarna Fjällstation.
Reindeers: During later winter there are many reindeers in Jämtland mountains. Keep your eyes open to spot them. You have more chance to see them during sunrise and sunset when less people are in the nature.
Sauna: All the huts on the way have a sauna. Don’t miss the opportunity to try at least one of them and celebrate your day in winter paradise with a jump in snow to cool down from the heat.
Northern lights: If there is clear sky, check out the north at night. You might be lucky to see northern lights. It should be at least kp3 to see in this area. You can find more about northern lights in this article.
Sylarnas Fjällstation: If you are considering making a shorter trip and if you would like to skip one hut, don’t miss Sylarna. This hut is modern, beautiful and offers wonderful views. As a bonus, you can have there tapped local beer to celebrate your trip. Enjoy!

Northern lights above our tent at Jämtland Triangel — *Northern lights above our tent at Jämtland Triangle*

Reindeers having breakfast during sunrise with view of Lillsylen and Storsylen — *Reindeers having breakfast during sunrise with a view of Lillsylen and Storsylen*

View of Lillsylen and Storsylen from mountain Herrklumpen — View of *Lillsylen and Storsylen* *from mountain Herrklumpen*

Our experience of Jämtland Triangle

We loved this hike. Even though we were slower than others because our snowshoes can’t reach the speed of back country skis, we had a lot of time to enjoy the views over landscapes. During our first night, there was a wonderful northern lights show above our tent and we also managed some small mountain adventures that I mentioned in the paragraph above.

A couple enjoying sunset in a snowy valley under a mountain in Sweden — *Enjoying sunset under mountain Västra Endalshöjden with background of Sylarna*

There was no real difficulty in the terrain, we were lucky with nice weather and I wish you the same! Enjoy the Swedish winter mountains like we did. As a teaser, you can take a look how happy I was to capture my very first video of northern lights on my camera.

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March 10, 2024 • 0 Comment

Practical Guide to see Northern Lights in 2024 and 2025

There have been many wonderful northern lights shows in the last years but one stands out! 10th May 2024 was a night that the whole world will remember for a long time! We witnessed the strongest aurora borealis and australis in 21 years! It was so strong that aurora was visible as south as in Florida or on the Canary Islands. It means that basically everyone in the whole Europe and the whole US could see this fantastic phenomenon if there was a clear sky. I myself watched northern lights in Stockholm where the sky was on fire and I could even see the dancing in all possible colours with the naked eye! Would you like to see similar northern lights in the future? Follow my tips and tricks as well as tips for guiding tours and best accommodations to see the northern lights around the world at the end of the article.

Colourful northern lights in Stockholm archipelago — *Record strong northern lights on 10th May 2024 in Stockholm archipelago*

Unique real time northern lights movie from Stockholm

The strong northern lights event of 10th May 2024 was spread across media all around the world and it was unique by its strength. But did you know the aurora shows are happening much more often? I managed to record a fantastic northern light show on my camera on 14th January 2022 and it was also visble across half of Europe and the US and only a few people knew about it. I got many nice comments but unfortunately also many sad messages: “I missed it. When and where can I see the northern lights next time? How did you know there will be aurora borealis that day?” I decided to help out and write this guide. This is all you need to know this fantastic phenomenon.

Exceptionally strong northern lights in Stockholm

What are northern lights?

To understand when and how you can witness northern lights, you have to know first what the lights actually are and how they are caused. First, let’s take a look at the official Wikipedia definition:

“Auroras are the result of disturbances in the magnetosphere caused by solar wind. These disturbances alter the trajectories of charged particles in the magnetospheric plasma. These particles, mainly electrons and protons, precipitate into the upper atmosphere (thermosphere/exosphere). The resulting ionization and excitation of atmospheric constituents emit light of varying colour and complexity.”

In simple words: northern lights are caused by solar activity which reaches our planet via charged particles and they react with the Earth’s magnetic field. The reaction causes lights nearby the magnetic poles of our planet (which are nearby the actual North and South Pole). The animation below will make it even more clear:

*How do northern lights work?*
*Source Imgur.com*

Why is it important to know this to forecast northern lights? It’s easy. By observing the Sun we can predict the aurora activity. Strong northern lights usually occur after unusual activity on the Sun (to make it simple let’s call them eruptions) and it takes approximately 3 days until the charged particles reach our atmosphere and cause the northern lights.

What is Aurora Borealis and Aurora Australis?

Aurora Borealis is simply another term for northern lights. It means the same, just a more fancy and epic name 🙂 But did you know that there are also southern lights? The reaction between solar activity Earth’s magnetic field causes lights also in the south so southern lights can be seen from the south of South America, Australia and New Zealand. These lights are called Aurora Australis.

The term aurora occured first in 1619 when Galileo named these fascinating lights according to the Roman Aurora, goddess of the dawn. On the contrary, the words borealis and australis are coming from Greek mythology. These name are derived from ancient gods – specifically of the north wind (Boreas) and the south wind (Auster).

*Northern lights in the north of Sweden at fascinating Kungsleden trail*

What time of the year is the best to see northern lights?

This is a very frequent question on social media under northern lights related topics and I often see random answers such as: “You can see them from January to March because it’s the coldest.” Bullshit. In fact you can see aurora borealis basically anytime when the sky is dark, when there are no clouds, and when the Sun is active.

The Sun doesn’t really think of when to make the largest eruptions based on the position of the Earth. The solar eruptions happen through the whole year, so be ready to see aurora anytime when there is dark sky if you live in Stockholm or even more north. I have seen the earliest aurora in the middle of August and the latest at the end of April. Check out the sunrise and sunset times for Stockholm. The auroras can be seen during night and astronomical twilight.

Northern Lights in Umeå — *Northern lights captured at midnight on 25 April 2013 in Umeå. The sky is not dark anymore*

If you are making a trip with the main purpose to see aurora, then plan it so you have a statistically bigger chance to see northern lights. Remember:

The longer the nights last, the bigger chance to see it.
Consider also the climate. Choose months with less rainy/snowy days.
Warmer days are also giving you a higher chance since you will be willing to wait longer outside for northern lights to show up compared to when it is -20.
Choose a time when there is no full moon. Moonlight is very strong and makes it more difficult to see aurora.

Where in Europe and America is it the best to watch northern lights?

The auroras usually occur behind the polar circle but are more rare in the south. The geomagnetic activity is measured by the so called Kp index. It is a scale of numbers between 0-9. Using this scale, it is easy to determine what Kp number you need to have a chance of seeing auroras where you are (read more about the Kp index here). These are the values to follow for cities across Sweden.

Kp 1: Kiruna, Narvik, Rovaniemi (Europe), Fairbanks, Whitehorse (Northern America): happens almost every day
Kp 3: Ålesund, Sundsvall, Jyväskylä (Europe), Calgary, Thunder Bay (Northern America): happens usually a few times every week
Kp 5: Stockholm, Helsinki, Oslo, north of Scotland (Europe), Seattle, Toronto, Halifax (North America): happens usually 1700 times during one solar cycle – ca 11 years. In 2022, northern lights were reported visible 42 times in Stockholm or more in the south! It’s pretty often!
Kp 7: London, Brussels, Cologne, Warsaw (Europe), Salt Lake City, Denver, Nashville (Northern America: happens usually 200 times during one solar cycle
Kp 9: Barcelona, Marseille, Rome, Bucharest (Europe), Miami, Houston, Los Angeles (usually 4 times during one solar cycle)

The Kp 1 is common. It means you can see the northern lights fir instance in Kiruna almost every day. The more south you are, the less often you will have the chance. Keep in mind that these numbers don’t guarantee aurora. Forecasts are not 100% correct and there are of course exceptions. I have seen northern lights in Stockholm when there was Kp 3 shown in the forecast but I didn’t see anything with Kp 6. There are better tools to follow. See below.

Northern Lights Kiruna — *Strong aurora captured overhead in Kiruna.*

What app is the best to forecast northern lights?

I have downloaded ten different northern lights apps and followed multiple websites and the most important thing to say is: it is very difficult to predict the northern lights activity and the apps are often wrong. The long term forecast is very unreliable. Since you know how the northern lights occur you understand this now. It is difficult to predict exactly when the Earth is hit by charged particles. That’s why it is better to follow short term forecasts and ideally live observations. I recommend following:

Do you speak Swedish? Follow FB page Norrsken. Actually, follow it even if you don’t speak Swedish. The FB translator works pretty well. The page Norrsken makes an amazing analysis every day when there is a chance to see northern lights in Sweden and they also organize observation feeds for all such days. Thanks to that you can see live observations from many followers around the country. It has just reached 100 000 followers so there is a lot of fresh data.
Follow the Soft Serve News website and its FB page. There you can see the short term forecast and they also notify about upcoming geomagnetic storms (Kp 5 and higher). Besides the Kp number you should also check Bz on their website. To make it simple: it should be negative so you can see great aurora. Another good thing is to check the Ovation map. If the map is yellow or ideally red then there are almost for sure northern lights in Stockholm at the moment.
Download one of the apps which offers notifications at certain Kp levels. I have for example the app Aurora Pro and I set the Kp notification at 5.
Download the weather app Windy. It won’t help you with the northern lights forecast, but it will help you plan where to go. If you click on the “cloud” layer you see how the clouds will be moving during evening. Make sure that there are no clouds in the north. Windy is a great weather app in general since you can check multiple weather forecast models there.
For further information and forecasts forecasts you can also check out these links: Space Weather Live, NOAA, Live camera in Abisko.

Patience is key!

I fell in love with aurora borealis when I moved to Sweden 10 years ago. I was studying at Umeå University and since the city lies pretty far in the north there is often a high chance to see aurora. Hunting northern lights quickly became my favourite hobby. I had a lot of great experiences which I could use later when I moved to Stockholm. Here in Stockholm I have seen many auroras too but two of them stand out: the one which I introduced at the beginning of this article and also in 2017. That time I managed to photograph an amazing panorama at Monteliusvägen.

That day my fiancée and I were waiting for two hours in freezing temperatures. She later decided to give up and went home. Luckily I stayed and after 10 minutes the amazing display began. I quickly called her to come back and she thought I was joking. It took some time to persuade her that it was not a joke. She ran back just in time to witness this beauty.

Unbelieveable northern lights taken in the heart of Stockholm — *Unbelievable northern lights in the middle of Stockholm taken at Monteliusvägen*

Remember, this doesn’t always happen. It happened many times that we saw nothing. My success rate to see aurora in Stockholm is only one in four! You have to try, try and try but once you manage you will never forget the moment.

How do I decide if I go northern lights hunting in Stockholm? I check the above mentioned sources daily. It only takes a few minutes and you can see directly if there is a chance that day. If I see a possibility for the upcoming night (meaning the Kp 5 or higher is expected) I prepare my equipment. Besides camera and tripod, we always bring warm clothes, hot drinks and we often barbecue. I often go hunting with my fiancée or with friends. Even if we don’t spot any northern lights that evening we still have a great time! Remember, patience is the most important. The longer you stay outside the higher chance you have to see the northern lights.

What is the best location to see aurora (not only in Stockholm)?

In general, it is important to have a clear view over the northern horizon and to be on a dark spot. I recommend being on the southern shore of a large lake or sea with a great view to the north. In Stockholm Lappis beach is perfect for instance. I also like the Monteliusvägen viewpoint but there is a big problem. There is a lot of light pollution in the city center which makes it more difficult to see auroras. Try to find a spot as dark as possible. The best area nearby Stockholm is the archipelago. Check out the Light Pollution Map.

Aurora Borealis at Lappis beach in Stockholm — *Aurora Borealis at Lappis beach with ca hundreds of happy students*

Book the best northern lights tour in northern Europe or Alaska

Are you living far from the north? Would you like to make sure you will see northern lights on your trip and have also wonderful pictures? Book a northern lights guided tour. The tour operators are experts in their areas and they know where to see northern lights even when weather forecast says it will be cloudy. Here are my recommendations for the best northern lights in northern Europe:

Sweden: Abisko northern lights tour – Abisko is a small Sámi village nearby Kiruna known for exceptionally good weather compared to the surrounding area because it is hidden by mountains around. Witness aurora borealis here in this magical place with comfortable transport from Kiruna.
Norway: Tromsö northern lights tour with free photos – Tromsö has a fantastic location for northern lights as you can drive from there to multiple directions including Finland and that’s why it’s easier there to find a clear sky. It can’t be cloudy everywhere!
Iceland: Small-Group Premium Northern Lights Tour from Reykjavik – If you visit Iceland and plan to make a long trip, you will very likely see northern lights at some point. If you visit Iceland though just for short time and you plan to stay only in the capital Reykjavik, book this trip. It’s organized in just a small group and the guides are real experts.
Finland: Rovaniemi: Northern Lights Tour with Guaranteed Sightings – Finland is also a paradise for aurora borealis watching. Book this best rated guided tour in the village of Santa Claus Ravaniemi which guarantees sighting of aurora borealis.
Alaska: Fairbanks: Northern Lights and Chena Hot Springs Tour – If you would like to see northern lights in northern America you will have the biggest chance at Alaska. Most trips are offered from Fairbanks and this tour has best reviews. It also includes a visit of Chena Hot Springs.

Tips for accommodation around the world to see northern lights

As i explained earlier in this article, you will have a higher chance to see northern lights the more north you travel. At the same times, it’s necessary to find a spot without light pollution to see aurora borealis as bright as possible. Therefore, I recommend remote accommodations far from cities. Keep in mind that booking accommodation at these places doesn’t guarantee seeing northern lights. You also need clear sky. I selected for you places where you have pretty high chance but to make it even higher, I recommend to book a guided tour which I recommended earlier.

Sweden: I will just repeat here that Abisko is the best place to see aurora borealis in Sweden. There is also a very nice accommodation STF Abisko Turiststation where you can experience not only northern lights but also a lot of other activities including sauna or ice climbing. If you are looking for an adventure, you can also spend night at Swedish Ice hotel (warm rooms are offered too) which is also known as a good spot to see aurora borealis.
Finland: This unique Arctic TreeHouse Hotel in the north of Rovaniemi is beautifully hidden in the nature so you will be far from light pollution. Here you can marvel at northern lights even from the warmth of your room through large windows.
Iceland: In the land of fire and ice, I strongly recommend to book hotel Ranga to witness aurora borealis. It isn’t far to drive from Reykjavik but far enough to have zero light pollution and thus excellent conditions to watch nights sky.
Alaska: The best accommodation at Fairbanks to see aurora can be found at Aurora Villa which has a perfect remote location and large windows so you can watch the dancing beauty in the sky from the warmth of your accommodation.

Wedding or proposal under northern lights?

My new challenge as a northern lights photographer is to shoot wedding and proposal photos under aurora. I work as a wedding photographer and it would be cool to connect my two passions – weddings/proposals and northern lights. Do you know anyone who plans a wedding and would be interested? Let me know!

Couple under northern lights in Finland — *My fiancée and I enjoying northern lights*

Next article: How to photograph aurora?

Do you have any questions about aurora? Let me know and I can add it to my article. For next article I am planning to write about how to photograph and film aurora so you can take nice picture and movies. Keep posted! In the meantime you can check out my expedition during which I climbed the highest mountain of every European country.

March 3, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to prepare for your first Vasaloppet

Are you planning to do Vasaloppet, the crazy 90km race in Sweden? Follow my experience and learn from my mistakes… Once I moved to Sweden and decided it will be my new home, I wanted to get to know the local culture and traditions as much as I could. Since I love winters, the tradition I wanted to experience first was Vasaloppet. What else can be more Swedish than a 90km long cross country skiing race? This oldest cross country skiing race in the world has already attracted over 1,700,000 participants who, sweaty and exhausted, completed different distances between Sälen and Mora. How will it be for me? Will I manage to complete the full distance with limited experience on cross country skis? If king Gustav Vasa made it when he was fleeing the war during the winter of 1520–1521 with poor equipment, I have to manage too!

Details and Statistics

Sport: Classical cross country skiing
Length of the race: 90km
Overall elevation: 813m
Difficulty: Very hard
Number of participants: 15800
Recommended training time: 2 years
Location: From Sälen to Mora

My first Vasaloppet race

After a cloudy, windy, rainy, snowy and dark February, the first week of March 2022 finally brought the dream Swedish winter weather. It’s sunny! Swedes call this kind of weather “vårvinter” and it literally means spring-winter. I love vårvinter because it isn’t only pleasant for its sun rays but it’s also perfect for cross country skiing. While the days are quite warm, the nights still get pretty cold. These changes in temperature make the snow very quick.

*Typical vårvinter weather at Vasaloppet*

My fiancée and I are driving now towards Sälen, a popular Swedish skiing resort but mostly the place known for the start of the most famous cross country skiing race in the world. The weather is supposed to be the same tomorrow. What a paradise weather for Vasaloppet!

We park our camper van at a parking lot just next to the Vasaloppet start. Now, the parking lot is almost empty. There are just a few more camper vans in the corner. It’s a quiet and peaceful night but volunteers preparing the tracks at the start remind us that something big is going to happen tomorrow. 15 800 skiers from all around the world will gather here in the early morning for one of the longest cross country skiing races in the world.

Aurora Borealis at Vasaloppet

Joanne and I are curious how the track looks like so we approach the Vasaloppet start. It’s very cold outside but it feels very cosy. The snow pleasantly crunches under our feet. While we are walking the dark sky suddenly turns to green. Am I dreaming? Northern lights just started to dance above the hard and solid track. It will be wonderful conditions for all the skiers tomorrow! We admire the amazing aurora borealis for a while, but we can’t stay long. We need enough sleep before the race starts tomorrow at 8! Good night from our comfy camper van!

Crazy wake up time and crazy snow conditions

I am woken up by my alarm at 2:30 a.m. on a mattress in a gym surrounded by 50 other waking guys. Shit! It was a dream! I quickly realize the reality. It is 2014. I am in a small village called Nusnäs at Siljan lake. Today, my father, our friend Håkan and I are doing Vasaloppet. We are two and a half hours of driving from the start, and we have to hurry to get some breakfast. While eating oatmeal and drinking tea we are looking outside. It’s snowing and temperatures are around 0 degrees. Damn it. This means the slowest possible snow for skiing.

*Evening before Vasaloppet. Lights were turned off at 8 p.m. and everybody went to sleep.*

Why am I talking so much about the snow conditions? For someone who doesn’t ski, it might sound like too much unnecessary information, but it actually matters a lot for skiers. Looking at the results of the past years´ races the bad and good snow conditions make a huge difference in racing time. While Petter Eliassen, the winner of 2020, needed 4:25:14 to complete the race, the next year’s winner Tord Asle Gjerdalen managed the race almost one hour faster with a time of 3:28:18. Among the amateurs, the time differences are even more significant. Slow snow means much more tough and demanding conditions.

*Beautiful winter weather but terrible for cross country skiing in Mora*

Don’t underestimate the preparation for Vasaloppet

After breakfast, we pack our skiing equipment, food supply for the race and head towards the bus. There I start to wonder. Did I train enough for Vasaloppet? As a kid I didn’t like cross country skiing much. It felt boring compared to other winter sports. Luckily, I was a happy kid. The winters were still cold so I could play ice hockey with my friends behind our house and my family spent most of the winter holidays in the mountains. There we did downhill skiing, and I enjoyed skiing at full speed.

After moving to Sweden though, my early disinterest in cross country skiing didn’t help me with my Vasaloppet goal. I was comfortable at downhills at least. These are often most scary for beginners. I was more worried about my poor technique and weak arms. Fortunately, I studied at Umeå University located in the north of Sweden, so I had a long winter to get ready!

First, I needed skis. As a broke international student, I only had money for second-hand skis. I bought all poles, ski boots, and skis for just 200 SEK (20 EUR). Well, the price equals the quality. My skis were made in 1988.

Old but very picturesque skis during sunrise — *My old but very picturesque skis*

When it comes to training, I never would have made it to the start without my amazing Swedish friend Håkan who is a big cross country skiing enthusiast and six times finisher of Vasaloppet. He often trained with me and gave me many valuable tips regarding technique. He also explained to me how important it is to do some race before: “Vasaloppet has many starting groups. If you don’t do a cross country ski race before, you automatically end up in the last seeding group 10. You’d rather start in some better group. If you start in the last group, there will be large queue in front of you and you will lose over one hour in time until you climb the first long hill.”

Long Vasaloppet start with 10 different seeding groups ready for 15800 racers — *The long Vasaloppet start with 10 different seeding groups ready for 15800 racers*

Take part in a preparation race outside north of Sweden

So that´s what we did. We participated in a local 40km race in Umeå called Vildmannaloppet. Unfortunately, I chose maybe the worst winter for the race. There wasn’t enough snow and Vasaloppet organizers were worried that the race will have to be cancelled due to lack of snow. A similar situation was going on in Umeå. The preparation race couldn’t happen on the usual 10km track due to the limited amount of snow so we had to do it on a 5km artificial snow track. We had to do 8 laps.

The race was not fun. Racing in the north of Sweden means that you compete with Swedes who were basically born on skis. It didn’t take a long time until all the local skiers left me behind. The only guy whose pace I managed to follow was another exchange student from France. Before I finished the first lap, I was already lapped by the fastest local skiers. This is not something that helps your self-esteem, but I kept on fighting.

The race was long and tough. I couldn’t even count how many times I was lapped but I was telling myself: “This will help you to qualify for a better starting group at Vasaloppet. You will have a better chance to finish it!” Here, I have to mention one more important detail. You can’t finish Vasaloppet in whatever time you feel like. There is a time limit and cut-off times on the way! The internal motivation helped me. I managed to complete the race even though I finished second last. Yes, I managed to beat the other exchange student! But most importantly – I will be seeded for Vasaloppet!

Vaxing cross country skis — *Another crucial task is to fix your skis. If you don’t know how to wax them and which way to choose, ask professionals. I was lucky to be helped by pros – my father and Håkan*

The start of Vasaloppet is full of emotions

We are arriving to Vasaloppet start. It’s 6 a.m., two hours before the actual start. Our bus manager´s tactics are to arrive early, so we get a good spot within our starting groups. My father and I are going towards the last group 10. Håkan forgot to mention one rule for the seeding – you need to finish the preparation race before a certain time to be seeded. I finished the preparation race too late.

Clever tip: In order to have better sleep before race, I highly recommend to find accommodation nearby the start in Sälen. Book it as soon as possible. All accommodation options are booked many months in advance

Coming early to the start helps for better position for the Vasaloppet race — *Coming early to the start helps for a better position for the race*

It’s still dark outside but huge lights are lighting up the thousands of skis placed in the tracks. I am putting my new racing skis, which Håkan lend me for the race (Thank you so much!), somewhere in the middle of group 10 next to my father’s skis. Now it becomes real: we will really run Vasaloppet! Today, I will either finish or I will die! Other members of our bus have already placed their skis in better groups, and my father and I watch them warming up their muscles with exercises and runs. We decide to save as much energy as possible and we take a short nap in the bus before the race.

It’s 7:40. I am finishing the last snack before the start, and I am heading towards my skis. The atmosphere there is incredible. There is a tower in the middle of every starting group with dancers who have the task to warm up all the participants. Even my father and I dance to the Avicii songs. 5 minutes before the start all the dancers leave. We listen to Vasaloppets anthem, and I feel goosebumps.

Vasaloppet start 2022 — *Vasaloppet start*

The longest day of my life

BANG! The race is initiated. The elite racers move quickly towards the first hill. We wait for a couple of minutes until we can start moving. “Good luck, dad! See you in in Mora in 12 hours!” Our group 10 slowly moves forward. When we reach the first uphill the crowd stops. I see some space at the left of the track, and I manage to overtake some participants. I think I found a cool shortcut but it still takes a lot of time to get to the top of the initial hill. My watch says 65 minutes. Håkan was right.

I was surprised how many people I managed to pass. It must have been hundreds of racers. Very many of them chose the wrong waxing strategy and had to stop to re-wax their skis on both sides of the track. I made it to the highest point of the whole Vasaloppet without stopping. Here, the crowd finally starts moving. Let’s go racing.

Vasaloppet start with thousands of skiers — *Quick start of the elite racers*

For people who like downhills the first 11km to the first stop Smågan are amazing. After the initial climb, the route goes smoothly down, and you can pass a lot of slow racers. It was my favourite part of the whole race. From this point the route starts to be challenging. After Smågan, there are six more stops on the way. To manage the whole Vasaloppet, it is very important to get enough energy at every stop. At each of these stops you can get the famous Vasaloppet blueberry soup, energy drink, water, a broth, a bun and at some stops also coffee. The distances between stops vary between 9 to 13km so it’s good to study the map before so you can expect what comes next.

Vasaloppet Risberg downhill — *One of great downhills but be careful: There are many falls every year. Google Vasaloppet Risberg falls if you want to laugh a little bit*

Plan your nutrition intake before Vasaloppet

I heard that many racers manage to complete the race just by taking what is offered during the race, but should I risk it? Since I have never experienced such a long race before, I didn’t dare to underestimate it. You might laugh at me, but I brought small pieces of bread and my favourite food for emergency – 5 small schnitzels.

Mångsbodarna stop at Vasaloppet — *Mångsbodarna stop*

It turned out to be a great food strategy. At every stop I took one of each of the offered drinks plus one small schnitzel and I had enough energy for the first 60km of the race. Even though the snow was slow and my speed was only around 10km/h, I never had to stop. I passed Mångsbodarna, Risberg, Evertsberg and Oxberg and two thirds of the race were behind me.

*A volunteer giving out blueberry soups to a racer*

Count on an unexpected crisis

After climbing to Oxberg I felt quite confident. I had heard that there shouldn’t be any large climbs anymore. I believed I would manage to finish the race. But here I made a mistake. I underestimated my energy intake and my waxing stopped working due to a change in temperature. I collapsed somewhere halfway on the way to the next stop at Hökberg. The situation was bad. I suddenly went out of energy, and I experienced a big crisis. I could only go very slowly, and I was scared that I will have to give up. Many racers were passing me, and I felt hopeless.

The worst Vasaloppet weather ever — When I saw this weather forecast before the race, I felt hopeless. It was very difficult to choose the wax strategy for the race on Sunday (Sorry, the screenshot is in Czech. Let me give you a short language lesson – pátek – Friday, sobota – Saturday, neděle – Sunday, pondělí – Monday, března – of March)

At this point only a miracle could save me. And the miracle occurred. Out of nowhere I saw an angel. There was a small girl standing next to the track. She was cheering on the racers with her father in typical Swedish: “Heja, heja” and she was giving out pancakes to those in need. When I heard her say “Vill du ha en pannkaka?” my emotions just got to me, and I started to cry of happiness. The pancake gave me enough energy to make it to the next stop at Hökberg. There was a waxing service which fixed my skies and I could continue.

Finishing at Vasaloppet — *At the end of the race there are usually worse snow conditions. Save some energy for the last kilometers.*

The last 20 km hurt me everywhere in my body. I even felt pain in parts of my body where I didn’t know I have muscles. It was also getting dark but the supporting spectators along the way gave me enough energy to finish. At the last stop I took an extra boost by taking a coffee and at a time of 09:09:33 I successfully passed the finish line. What a feeling! Vasaloppet is finished!

*I made it! I finished Vasaloppet 2014!*

Now it’s just time to celebrate with my father and Håkan in a pub nearby over a local beer. We managed the Vasaloppet in one of the worst conditions in years. Out of 15800 who registered for the race only 11248 finished in 2014. We managed to beat for instance the Swedish ice hockey star Peter Forsberg who gave up his race somewhere between Evertsberg and Oxberg.

Back to the dream Vasaloppet 2022

Eight years later, the dream I had before Vasaloppet 2014 came true. Joanne and I just took a different role at the 100^th edition of Vasaloppet. This time I got a press accreditation to document the race. In this way I could return to my memories of my first Vasaloppet and show you pictures of how amazing the race is. If you consider doing the race, don’t hesitate for a moment. Even though it was the toughest physical exercise I ever experienced I would do it again. I actually already did. In my next post, I will tell you how Vasaloppet was in perfect vårvinter conditions, this time using a different skiing technique – skating/freestyle.

Vasaloppet goal — *See you soon Vasaloppet!*

Fun facts about Vasaloppet

Vasaloppet belongs to the four grand classic races. The other races are Italian Marcialonga, Czech Jizerska50, and Norwegian Birkebeinerrennet. A victory in all four races, a grand slam, gives the winner 100,000 Euros! If you get good enough in skiing you can also get pretty rich!
An average racer drinks over a litre of blueberry soup during Vasaloppet. During the whole Vasaloppet week 2022 (consisting of different races) the participants consumed 33,900 litres of blueberry soup, 28,000 litres of Enervit sport drink, 11,900 litres of vegetable broth, 3,100 litres of coffee and 200,000 Vasaloppet buns.
No littering! If a participant is found to have littered in or along the Vasaloppet course (which is a nature reserve) then he or she will receive a time penalty of 15 minutes.
The average age in Vasaloppet 2014 was 42.1 years. The youngest participant in Vasaloppet 2014 was 18 and the oldest was 87.
2.195 racers in 2014 were women which means 13,8% of all participants.
Racers from 73 countries participated in Vasaloppet 2014.
The average racer loses 3kg of body weight during a full Vasaloppet.
All 15 800 tickets for Vasaloppet 2014 were sold out in just 10 minutes!

Vasaloppet logistics — Vasaloppet organizes amazing logistics. You can leave your personal items in a plastic bag at the start and it will be delivered to the finish. Thanks to this service you can for instance prepare dry and warm clothes

My personal tips for your first Vasaloppet

Be ready to buy the ticket for Vasaloppet in time. They sell out in just a few minutes.
It’s recommended to start training at least two years before the race. During summer consider training on roller skis.
Try to participate in a race before to seed better than in the last starting group. Choose a race outside north of Sweden. There’s higher competition there, so it’s more difficult to qualify.
Take great care of your skis before the race. It’s worth spending some money for a professional waxing service.
Book your accommodation before the race close to the start at Sälen. You will have more time to sleep, and it will save you a lot of energy.
Plan your food strategy and test it before the race. Don’t experiment with something new on the race day.
Take some food at every stop on the way. You never know when a crisis gets you. Take some food with you for emergencies.

Come to Vasaloppet start in time — My last tip for you: Arrive well in advance so you don’t end up like these racers. Every year, hundreds of people come late to the start because of long traffic jams. You don’t want to miss the amazing start.

DISCLAIMER: Everything described in the dream actually happened. The only exception is the comfy camper van. We slept in a standard rental car and I have to admit: It could have been more pleasant. In -15°C we were pretty cold and when we got home we got sick. Rent a proper camper van.

February 25, 2024 • 0 Comment

Experience TOP 40 winter activities in Scandinavia

In 2012, I decided to move to Sweden to study and it was the best decision of my life because I love winter and here I can enjoy it fully! Since then, I managed to try a lot of winter activities in Scandinavia while others are still waiting on the list. Take a look at well-known and unknown winter activities that you can experience in Scandinavia.

1. Ice skating

Let’s start with the best winter activity you can do in the capital of Sweden. The region of Stockholm has hundreds of lakes of different sizes and together with the large areas in the Stockholm archipelago you have the best ice skating opportunities. Since it doesn’t snow much in Stockholm, you can skate pretty much anytime from the season start (usually November or December) until the ice melts (most often some time in April). If you would like to experience real freedom this is a winter activity for you. Imagine skating the whole day on the endless Swedish sea around islands and cute villages on islands. Would you like to join for a trip? In my free time I’m working as an ice skating guide. Learn more at my in-depth article about skating on natural ice. You can also take a look at how it is to fall through ice below.

*Skating in the city centre of Stockholm*

2. Cross country skiing – classic style

Let’s move to another traditional Scandinavian winter sport – skiing. Did you know that there are several kinds of skiing? We will go through all of them in this article. Let’s start with the most known skiing style which is classic cross-country skiing. Have you heard about Vasaloppet? This oldest cross country skiing race in the world has already attracted more than 1,700,000 participants around the world. The race is 90km long and promises an unbelieveable atmosphere not only for the racers but also for the spectators. Visit the finish of the race Mora and you won’t regret it.

If you would like to try cross country skiing yourself, many places across the country offer cross country skiing courses. Try it, it’s so much fun! And if you fall for skiing, after a few years of training you can participate in Vasaloppet too. Take a look at what my Vasaloppet experience was like.

*Start of Vasaloppet with over 15000 participants*

3. Cross country skiing – skating style

Recently, the skating technique of cross-country skiing has become more and more popular. The technique originated in the early 20th century and became widespread in the 1980s following Bill Koch’s success at the 1982 World Cross Country Championships. In order to compare the differences between the two cross-country styles, I managed to complete the Vasaloppet with both techniques. Which one do you think is better for such a long race?

4. Downhill Skiing

If you want to be even faster, go for downhill skiing. On downhill skis, you can easily reach speed above 100 km/h. There are many ski resorts around Scandinavia but you will find the best one in Åre. It offers the most tracks and most slopes. Another advantage is that Åre offers slopes for everyone regardless if you are a beginner, intermediate, advanced or pro skier.

You might be surprised but there is also a small ski resort in the middle of Stockholm. Hammarbybacken offers even a world cup competition for pro skiers. Even though the hill is relatively short, it also has its black slope which is perfect for a slalom race.

*Skiing in Åre can lead to ski jumping too*

5. Snowshoe hiking

Let’s take a break from skiing and let’s take a look at snowshoeing. Snow shoes are perfect for hikes in areas with a lot of snow. You’ll love the feeling of crunching snow under your feet. My personal favourite place for snow shoeing is Skuleskogen national park where you can hike daily 10-20 km and stay over in local huts, even free of charge. There you can have a great time having a barbecue under the Northern lights.

Beautiful snowshoe location in Swedish mountains (Jämtlands Triangel) — *This is another beautiful snowshoe location in Swedish mountains (Jämtlands Triangle)*

6. Watching Northern lights shows

Have I just mentioned Northern lights? It is the most exciting phenomenon to witness in Scandinavia so let’s take a look at them. Aurora Borealis occurs sometimes all around Scandinavia but you have the biggest chance to witness them behind the polar circle. I’m myself fascinated by Northern lights so much that I’m hunting them every time we have a chance to see them in Stockholm. Just keep in mind, you have to be patient to see the lights. If you want to learn more tips about when and where to see Lady Aurora, you can take a look at my Practical Guide to see Northern Lights.

*Admiring northern lights on Lofoten islands in Norway*

7. Ice fishing

Another activity which requires patience but brings a lot of joy is ice fishing. Create a hole in the ice with a special ice drill and catch your dinner. Ice fishing is so popular in Scandinavia that there are even ice fishing competitions. Can you beat the largest fish ever caught on ice in Sweden – 7kg arctic char?

*One of ice fishing competitions in Umeå*

8. Sauna

Are you becoming cold from all this talk about winter sports? I have something for you to warm up. Try a sauna with a jump into freezing water. It is not only a lot of fun but also healthy for your body. According to studies, taking a sauna helps with relaxing and detoxifying your body and Scandinavian countries know it. Therefore, sauna use in Finland, Sweden and Norway already starts in early childhood.

Cooling down in snow after sauna — *If there is no lake or sea to jump in after sauna you can ask your friends to cover you in snow. It works well too!*

9. Ice windsurfing

Let’s go from cold water back to ice. One of the most exciting winter sports I’ve ever tried is ice windsurfing. It is even more exciting than windsurfing on water. If you have a strong enough wind, you can reach speeds faster than 150km/h thanks to the very low resistence of the ice.

10. Snowkiting

The wind can also be utilized for snowkiting. Bring a kite and enjoy it either with skies in the mountains or with skates on a lake. Both are a lot of fun!

11. Ice hockey

Compared to summer, there are not many winter team sports but the existing ones are a lot of fun. You probably know ice hockey which is very popular around Sweden and Finland. Gather a group of friends to play a game or visit a match of Swedish hockey league and enjoy one of the best hockey games you can see in the world.

*When I was studying in the north of Sweden in Umeå we played ice hockey every week with other students*

12. Bandy

Have you already seen ice hockey but would you like to see something even more unique? Visit a match of Bandy. Simply said, it is like ice hockey just on a frozen football field played by 11 players on every side. It is regarded as one of the fastest sports in the world and is only played in northern countries. To give you a taste of the game, look at the best goals made in the Swedish league below.

13. Curling

Another winter team sport requires a lot of precision. Build a team and try curling in one of many curling halls around Scandinavia.

14. Biathlon

Currently, my favourite Olympic winter sport to watch is biathlon. Thanks to the shooting, the races are very unpredictable and that makes it very exciting! You can watch biathlon competitions every winter in Östersund which holds a world cup competition. When I visited one of the races, I was also happy to find out that you can even try biathlon yourself there. It was very cool to try to hit the targets like pro athletes. Now, I will not complain anymore about the biathletes who miss the targets. It’s pretty hard!

15. Winter camping

Do you like hiking and camping? Try it in winter too. There are much less hikers during winter so you can enjoy the nature on your own. It’s very cosy to wake up and have a view over a frozen landscape. As a bonus you won’t be bothered by mosquitoes compared to summer.

*Winter camping with my girlfriend at Jämtlands Triangle*

16. Ice Hotel

Do you prefer sleeping inside? Then, try something special during winter in Sweden. Visit the famous Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi and spend a night in an ice paradise. The hotel is unique every year with decorations made by artists from all around the world!

Once you’re there, don’t forget to take a shot in a glass made of ice and if you’re there with your fiancée, why not to get married there too? The Ice hotel also has a small chapel where couples from all around the world get married.

*Testing if it’s a good idea to get married at the Ice Hotel*

17. Back country skiing

Let’s get back to skiing. There are a few very popular ski activities you can try in Scandinavia. Let’s take a look first at ski touring and back country skiing. The difference is very small and the names are often exchanged with each other. In Scandinavia it’s two very different sports though. Back country skis in Scandinavia are very similar to cross country skis, they are just wider and they are used in free terrain. People often use these skis for travelling longer distances from hut to hut and they are also used for multiday trips with an extra sled where you can carry supplies. Try for example back country skis in popular mountain areas in Sweden such as in Jämtland close to Åre or far in the north at Kungsleden.

*A backcountry skier in the Swedish mountains*

18. Ski touring

Ski touring in Scandinavia is rather associated with off piste skiing. The skis are more similar to downhill skis and people use skins for going up in the hills. These skis are rather used to climb mountains and to enjoy downhill in free terrain rather than long distances. Thanks to ski touring you can for example climb Norway’s highest mountain – Galdhøpiggen.

*Climbing the highest mountain of Scandinavia in winter is a strong experience*

19. Ski jumping

One of the winter activities that I have not yet tried and have only observed so far is ski jumping. But if Eddie the Eagle could do it, why couldn’t I? 🙂

*Ski jumping championship in Falun, Sweden*

20. Heliskiing

Would you like to try world class off piste skiing in the best possible conditions? Try heli skiing behind the polar circle. In Abisko you can join a group of skiers and experience heli skiing.

21. Ice Cross

Have you heard about Ice cross? It’s popular mostly thanks to exciting Red Bull events. Check it out and if you dare, visit the ice cross facility in Stockholm.

22. Dog sledding

One of the most popular activities among visitors to Scandinavia is dog sledding. I have to admit I am a bit afraid of dogs so I haven’t tried it yet but I will one day. It looks very cosy! In addition to my own experience, I also have to see this special race in Norway once.

23. Ice climbing

If you like rock climbing you should definitely also try ice climbing. What about ice climbing directly on the highest waterfall in Sweden or the famous Gudvangen icefall in Norway shown in the movie below? It is also on my to try list this winter.

24. Winter swimming

We have already talked about sauna but did you know that it is very popular to swim in ice cold water without going to the sauna these days? There are even races in cold water in Sweden!

25. Winter kayaking

I prefer to utilize water in the solid state during winter for activities such as skiing or skating but there is also an option to experience an adventure on unfrozen lakes. Enjoy views over snow covered national parks or cities from a kayak. Stockholm offers many opportunities for instance.

*My frozen kayak during a sunrise tour in the Stockholm archipelago*

26. Fat biking

Biking and snow often don’t go together. Slippery roads can be tricky so bikers usually take a break from biking during winter months. Have you heard though about fat biking? These bikes have much thicker tyres so they can be used on snow. Would you like to try?

*My girlfriend testing a fat bike on a beach. It also works very well there. Next time we have to try it on snow!*

27. Car drifting

Let’s stay on snowy roads. Do you like cars? Then, I have a winter activity for you too. North west of Stockholm, there is a special lake where ice drive races are organized. Visit Dalarna and test your driving skills on ice!

28. Yukigassen

Yukigassen will bring you back to the childhood times when you had snowball fights with your friends. It is actually an official snowball competition. As you might guess from the name, it comes from Japan but there are Yukigassen associations in all major northern countries including Sweden. Visit Luleå for a national competition.

29. Sled

Let’s stay in our childhood and let’s enjoy children’s favourite means of transport in winter. Sledding is so much fun even for adults and there is even a sled championship in Sweden every year. Visit SM veckan and compete in Alpin Rodel.

30. Bobsleigh

We talked about the traditional childrens’ toy sled but how about a professional one? I admire the high speeds on skeleton/sled or bobsleigh tracks. Would you dare to try it?

31. Skijoring

Do you have pets and would you like to train together with them? Then, skijoring is the best thing for you! Skijoring is basically any sport where a person on skis is pulled by a horse, a dog (or dogs), another animal, or a motor vehicle (snowmobile or car for instance). In Sweden, you can find many cross country skiing tracks where pets are allowed.

32. Reindeer race

If you own a typical Lappland pet – reindeer, you can participate in a Reindeer race in Finland. This is a wonderful event when people gather from all around the world to admire Sámi traditions.

33. Snow mobiling

To be honest, I am not much of a fan of snow mobiling. I prefer moving in the pure nature with my own power but I understand snow mobiling is popular in Sweden. The machines are very quick and you can explore nature in much shorter time compared to skis or skates. For me, they are just very loud and smelly and I am not that happy to meet them on my trips. I am not surprised that they are banned in Norway in free nature and allowed only on specific paths. I hope Sweden will follow the rule in the future. Anyway, snow mobiles are allowed now so try them.

34. Snowboarding

I almost forgot about snowboarding. It’s not much a surprise because I am a skier and you know there is a small rivalry between both sports so maybe I forgot it on purpose 🙂 Anyway, Sweden offers perfect conditions for snowboarding too. If you are a skier like me, why not trying a snowboard too? Look what Ms. Ledecka managed. She won a gold medal both in snowboarding and skiing at the Olympic games. I am proud to be a Czech 🙂

35. Winter Safari

In winter it is wonderful to observe animals in their natural habitat. Witnessing a moose and reindeer in Swedish mountains during winter is pretty common. But how about watching polar bears on Svalbard?

36. Hunting for the lowest temperatures

I have to admit I’m a bit of a weather nerd. I follow weather forecasts every day and I’m fascinated by our atmosphere and its phenomena. That’s also why I decided to study a meteorology course at Uppsala University in Sweden. During that time I found out that it’s popular to “hunt” for the lowest temperatures. Very low temperatures are very interesting because you can try wonderful things like in the video below. Do you know where we can measure the the lowest temperature in Scandinavia?

37. Winter kicksleds

Have you ever heard of kicksleds? These are especially popular in northern Europe and are also used for classic shopping trips. Below is a video from one of the manufacturers.

38. Igloo

What is it like to sleep in an igloo? Despite the ice or snow structure, it should be “relatively” warm inside. It’s time to experience what it’s like to be an Inuit for a day.

39. Winter surfing

Surfing is very popular in the summer. However, while traveling beyond the Arctic Circle, I discovered that it is also popular in the winter in the beautiful Lofoten archipelago. Judging by the video below, isn’t it gorgeous?

40. Glacier caves

Finally, I have perhaps the most beautiful thing – the glacial caves that can be found in Iceland. See what nature can create. Let’s explore them quickly before the glaciers melt.

So what do you think: Is winter boring or not? 😉

April 2, 2023 • 0 Comment

Skating equipment for natural ice

Skating on natural ice is so much fun but it’s also very important to do it safely. Swedish lakes and especially the sea can be very tricky. I discussed different types of ice and ice safety in this article. Today, we will go thorougly through equipment you need on ice. Luckily, Sweden in general is very good with safety rules and you can see it also in the equipment of any Swedish skater.

Let’s start with the ice safety equipment

Skating is very popular in Sweden and there are many local Swedish skating clubs across the country. If you would like to become a member and join their skating trips you must first buy full ice safety equipment. All of the equipment is recommended to everyone who steps on natural ice. Let’s take a look at it briefly first:

Ice Skate & Boots – let’s start with the obvious equipment. It would be difficult to skate without them 😉
Skating Poles – important tool to check the quality and thickness of the ice, also helpful if you have to go against strong wind
Ice picks – a necessary tool to get you out of the water in case you fall through the ice
Whistle – helps you to call help if you are in trouble
Rescue Lines – will allow your friend(s) to help you get out of the water
Backpack with extra clothes in waterproof bags

Skater at Saltsjöbaden with full safety equipment — *You can see all the safety equipment well on my girlfriend Joanne*

I would never go to unknown ice conditions without the above mentioned equipment either. During the last seven years of skating in the Stockholm area and three years of being a guide I still explore new areas every winter and the right equipment is crucial.

Below you can see all equipment (including my camera gear) which I bring to every skating trip. Besides what you can see in the picture, I also bring medical kit and a waterproof bag with extra clothes in it which I would use in case I fall through. We’ll discuss these items below too.

List of ice skating equipment — *Ice skating equipment*

My ice skating equipment list

Let’s take a look at the equipment more in detail now.

Ice Skates and Boots

There are three main skates and binding systems for natural ice skating which you should choose depending on personal preference and skating style. In general, both of the nordic bindings are suitable for Swedish lakes and sea.

Nordic Bindings – Nordic bindings are a common type of skate binding used for natural ice skating. These are preferable for skating in Sweden over Dutch bindings (see below) because you can easily remove the skate from your boots and walk between lakes or if you have to pass a crack over land. These bindings use a clip mechanism that attaches the skate boot to the skate blade. The clip mechanism provides a secure connection between the boot and the blade while allowing for some flexibility in the ankle. Keep in mind that there are two types of Nordic bindings commonly used for natural ice skating. They are called the NNN (New Nordic Norm) binding and the SNS (Salomon Nordic System) binding. Both the boots and bindings must match. I have both of these pakcages and found out that SNS mechanism is slightly better for skating experience but the boots are less comfy for walking. If you would like to make trips with some walking in between, I would rather recommend the NNN binding and boots because they are more comfortable.
Dutch Skates– Dutch skates are different. Their blades are directly connected to the boots. These skates are much faster but they are not ideal for worse quality ice and you can’t just remove the boots and walk in between lakes. Dutch skates are therefore more suitable only for lakes with perfect ice or stadiums.

Would you like to buy some skates and boots too? There are many brands to choose from. I myself have skates from Lundhags and Skyllermarks and they are both amazing. Regarding boots, I have Salomon cross country skiing shoes for SNS binding and Crispi for NNN binding.

Skating Poles

Skating poles for testing ice thickness are an important safety tool for skaters, especially when skating on ice where conditions can vary widely. By using these poles, skaters can ensure that they are skating on safe, stable ice and avoid the dangers of falling through thin or unstable ice. They also work very well to pass parts of ice where the skating conditions are worse (for instance when there is snow or double ice) and help when skating against wind.

There are several brands offering skating poles and they differ in weight and the ability to go through ice. It’s important to know your own pole and “calibrate it” to test the thickness. I know for intsance that if I make a hard hit with my Skyllemarks pole and it goes through, I should turn around 🙂

Ice picks and a whistle

Safety ice picks are a specialized tool used for ice skating that are designed to help skaters pull themselves out of the water in case they fall through the ice. They are also sometimes called ice claws, ice awls, or ice gripers. Similarly to other equipment, there are also many different kinds on the market. I just recommend not to buy the cheapest ones. As this tool can save your life, rather spend a little bit more money to make sure your ice picks work well when you need them. Don’t forget to buy those which come with a whistle so you can call help in case of accident. Remember the last scenes of Titanic 😉

Rescue line

Rescue lines are an important tool for ice safety, as they can help to quickly and safely rescue someone who has fallen through the ice. They should be carried by all people who are venturing onto natural ice to be able to help each other. Every rescue line should also have a carabiner which you attach to a stripe at your back pack during the rescue. I am very happy with this one for example. It worked very well during my test fall through.

Backpack with a waterproof bag

Every skater should have a backpack with a waterproof bag inside full of extra clothes. It doesn’t only help to carry essential extra clothes which you would use to change after ending up in water but it also serves as a life vest. To make sure your backpack works best as life jacket, you have to have an extra stripe which connects your backpack to the stripe in the front of your body (see the red stripe on the picture below). It makes sure that the backpack will stay attached to your body. Without this stripe, the backpack would go up in the water and it wouldput your head down in the water.

I’m using a classic hiking backpack (30l) for skating with the additional strips. If you want you can also buy a special ice skating backpack where the stripes are already included.

*Ice skating safety backpack with safety line attached*

Clothes and extra clothes in the waterproof bag

When going to skate, it’s good to use layering system for your clothing. I always have the first two layers as described below and then I sometimes add additional layer in case it rains/snows or if it’s very cold. During skating, you can then easily adjust the layer based on how warm you feel or how the weather changes.

Base Layer: Start with a lightweight and breathable base layer that will wick moisture away from your body. This layer should be made of materials such as polyester or merino wool, and should fit snugly against your skin. I myself prefer merino wool as it doesn’t smell after sport.
Insulating Layer: The next layer should provide insulation to keep you warm. This layer should be made of materials such as fleece, and should be loose enough to allow for ease of movement.
Outer Layer: The outer layer should protect you from wind, cold and/or moisture. This layer should be made of materials such as Gore-Tex or other waterproof and breathable fabrics (in case of wet weather) or a down jacket in case it’s very cold.

In addition to the layers above, you should also wear a warm hat, gloves or mittens, and a scarf or neck warmer to protect your neck and face from the cold.

All above I carry once more in the waterproof bag. Don’t forget to add there a small towel to dry yourself. I also recommend to bring sealskinz socks which will keep your feet dry even in wet shoes. Another tip is to have a rain jacket in the waterproof bag to keep your back warm after you put on wet backpack.

Don’t forget to think about breaks. It gets cold pretty quickly once you stop moving. For these moments I bring with me a thicker down jackets and down pants. Thanks to them I am never cold during lunch/snack times.

Extra tips

All the above mentioned pieces of equipment are necessary on ice but I have some more tips which can make your experience even better.

Ice measurement: Skyllemark sells great measuring tools for ice thickness. They are small and fit nicely in a pocket. I use them when I want to know how thick the ice is.
Powerbank: As I am using offline maps on my phone while on ice skating trips, I also always bring a powerbank to make sure I ahve enough battry for the whole day trip
A torch: You never know what can happen on your trip. To make sure I also see in darkness, I always bring a torch
A camera: Don’t forget to document your trip. A smart phone is great but if you want special and unique pictures, I recommend also a 360 camera. I myself bring even a DSLR camera but it’s pretty bulky for skating.

Don’t go on ice alone

Now, the ice skating packing list is ready. I also have to add that it’s necessary to have a skating partner. In case of an accident it is important to have someone who could help out. That’s why I always go on a skating trip in a company.

Where to buy ice skating equipment in Stockholm?

If you would like to buy your own equipment I recommend Alewalds store in Stockholm. There you can get the best advice on winter equipment in Stockholm. If you would like to test the equipment first you can book a trip with the company I work. Take a look for more information here.

Perfect new black ice in front of Stockholm City Hall

March 19, 2023 • 0 Comment

Ice safety: How thick should ice be to be safe?

Ice is fascinating. If it’s thick enough it allows people to make wonderful trips on lakes or seas. But ice skating is an adventurous sport and safety should never be underestimated. Do you know how to evaluate ice? You can’t just simply check the thickness and say that if it is 5cm thick, then it’s safe. In fact, it’s such a tricky question that I devote this whole article to it. I have been guiding on ice for three years and I took a thorough ice knowledge course in Sweden. Here are my most important learnings.

There are different kinds of ice and the quality matters

First, we have to go through the different types of ice as their quality differs. Since ice skating is so popular in Sweden, there is a extended vocubalury regarding ice terms. In my course we took a look at 117 of them. It isn’t important to know all of them but I will present to you the 5 most important ones.

Macro photo of snow ice structure — *This is a macro photo of snow ice structure. Is it a strong ice? Read below?*

Which ice has the highest quality?

Black ice (in Swedish kärnis) – this ice is created on open water during cold and clear nights. It is the best ice to skate on. It’s so clear that you can see through the ice and 4 cm is usually enough to skate on. This applies though only if you are experienced and have full ice safety equipment with you. Check out the recommended ice thickness by authorities below. The only disadvantage of black ice is that it melts faster during spring time when sun shines strongly due to its colour. This ice makes wonderful sounds so you can also evaluate the thickness by listening to it.
Snow ice (in Swedish stöpis) – this ice is created when there is snow on top of an ice layer which turns into ice during stöpning (Swedish word for the process of snow slowly melting and turning to slush which subsequently freezes). This ice is white in colour due to many small bubbles in the structure. The advantage of this ice is that it melts slower in heat due to its white colour. The disadvantage is that it quickly becomes soft on top in warm weather. This ice also cracks easier than black ice. I fell through once when the snow ice was 8 cm thick because it cracked after many other skaters who passed and there was no stable black ice underneath.
Salt ice (in Swedish saltis) – salt ice has similar characteristics as snow ice. You hardly ever get black ice on the sea due to salt crystals. The water freezes during colder temperatures (-0,5C at Baltic sea and -1,8C at North Sea) and it also melts faster. This ice doesn’t make much sound compared to black ice so it is more difficult to evaluate the thickness.
Double ice (in Swedish överis) – this ice occurs when there is water on top of the ice, for example because of rain, which subsequently freezes. The water slowly freezing on top creates a double ice layer with some water in between. This isn’t dangerous when it comes to falling through. However, you can get serious injuries if you come quickly from classic ice to double ice: your skates will suddenly stop and you will fall forward, often leading to knee and head injuries. Sometimes noses are even cut off… If there is a danger of double ice, it’s important to be extra careful and go slowly.
Spring ice (in Swedish våris) – this is the most tricky ice. Spring ice is usually beautiful to skate on during early mornings if temperatures were below zero over night, but the quality of the ice can change dramatically under the hot sun. The structure of the ice can break into small pillars and you can suddenly fall through. So even if the ice is 20 cm thick, it can still fall apart under strong sun and your weight.

*Fresh and beautiful black ice in front of Stockholm City Hall*

*Salt ice looks similar to snow ice but if you look closely you will see snow crystals*

Combination of black ice and snow ice — *This is a combination of black ice and snow ice. It was created after a heavy snow fall when snow was lying in the water during a very cold night. The snow created beautiful patterns in the ice.*

Skating in double ice isn't fun. It's actually almost impossible — *Skating in double ice isn’t fun. It’s actually almost impossible*

These are the most important ice structures you should know before coming to the ice but there are many more. Take a look at summary of Swedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute.

Ice safety according to authorities

Now that you know the differences of ice quality we can finally take a look at how thick the ice should be to be safe. According to both Issäkerhetrrådet (Swedish Ice Safety Advisory) and Snowfed (Swedish Snowmobile association), the ice should be 10 cm thick to safely walk on, icefish or to ice skate. If you would like to take a snowmobile, car or a small truck the ice should be even thicker (see below). These numbers refers to the highest quality of black ice. If the ice is of lower quality, it must be even thicker.

The strength of the ice varies both in time and space

Has ice safety become more clear already? Let’s make it more complicated again because the ice does not have the same thickness everywhere. As we were told during our ice knowledge course: “The ice can hold here, but not there. It can hold here now, but not later.” Why? The reasons are explained on the pictures below. If you want to go ice skating, it’s always important to take a look at a map beforehand to investigate potential dangerous areas. The Swedish terms are explained under the picture.

Map os where ice can be weak — *Explanation of the Swedish terms is below.*

Areas with possibly weak ice

Even though it’s very cold, it doesn’t mean that the ice is safe everywhere. At some places the water flows more, so skaters must be extra careful. Below you can see a list of places where it’s worth being extra careful:

Grund – Shallow water – when there is suddenly shallow water, the water flows faster there, which often causes weaker ice or even holes.
Vindbrunn – Wind hole – is created when there is a new layer of ice after the first cold night but winds destroy a part of it.
Inlopp – Water inlet – when water enters into a lake/sea, it causes weaker ice due to the flow.
Utlopp – Water outlet – the same happens when water leaves a lake – the area nearby can have weaker ice.
Avlopp – Drain – Areas where pipes drain water cause weaker ice too, again because there is a stream of (sometimes even warm) water.
Udde – Headland – There is also usually some stream around headlands (edges of peninsulas). Be aware of these places.
Råk – Crack – Cracks occur when the ice is shrinking and expanding in changing temperatures. There is no surprise that ice can be weaker around cracks. Skate a bit along the crack to find the best place to pass it.
Ränna – Large crack caused by boats – These cracks are impossible to pass and there is also often a weaker ice around. Be careful around them especially when a new boat passes. Waves caused by the boats can cause new ice cracks.
Vass – Reed – Water around reed often doesn’t manage to freeze as effectively as on open water. Before I learnt this I fell through once in such area. Be careful.
Bro – Bridge – Ice under bridges is often weaker than elsewhere.
Brygga – Jetty – they usually absorb more heat from sun and the ice around them gets weaker.

Wind hole which was created by wind during the creation of new ice — *Typical wind hole which was created by wind during the creation of new ice, then the hole increased in size due to even stronger wind*

There are two more interesting terms that aren’t included on the map but they are good to know about. They aren’t usually dangerous because they are usually very small but sometimes they can grow into significant sizes:

Slukhål – Suckhole – After rain, there will be some water on the ice which usually disappears slowly under the ice via small holes or cracks. The flowing water can create so called suckholes which can become pretty large if there is a lot of rain.
Stöpvattenhåll – Snow ice hole – we talked about the stöpning process when snow slowly turns into ice. What we haven’t mentioned is that wet snow becomes very heavy and that causes water coming from below through small holes or cracks to the top of the ice. If these holes become larger they create snow ice holes which look like neurons, aren’t they beautiful?

Stöpvattenhåll - Snow ice hole — *Stöpvattenhåll – Snow ice hole at Brunnsviken*

The danger of spring Ice

Let’s get once more back to the spring ice (våris) because it can be very dangerous. When the sun is very strong (in Sweden, it starts to impact ice significantly from beginning of March), it can change thick ice into dangerous area because the ice loses its structure from below and it’s hard to see it. Take a look what happened to an ice fisherman in 2023 in Sweden.

Ice Knowledge Summary

We have gone through all the important terms. We learnt about the different types of ice and we also checked all the potentially dangerous areas with weak ice. What I haven’t mentioned in this article is the safety equipment and the importance of experience and being in a group. I wrote a w h ole article about that before and you should definitely study it too before coming to the ice. You can also check out here how it is to fall through ice and how you save yourself. I tried it in a course and it was actually a lot of fun 🙂 If you would like to try skating on natural ice under safe conditions, I am also working as an ice skating guide in Stockholm. Let me know if you are interested. I hope to see you on the ice some day!

Selfie of group of skaters on a Swedish lake during sunset

March 12, 2023 • 0 Comment

Your guide to ice skating in Stockholm

After testing and finishing Vasaloppet, I present to you a new winter sport. Do you know what Stockholm is unique for in winter? Why is it called a winter paradise among a large outdoor community? The answer is ice skating opportunities. Thanks to hundreds of lakes and the largest archipelago in the world nearby there are countless opportunities. Would you like to try skating on endless lakes or sea too? Follow my tips or join me on an organized skating tour. I am not only enjoying trips on ice in my free time on my own, I also work as a skating guide in Stockholm.

Stockholm is the best place for ice skating in the world

If you look at the latitude of Stockholm, the Swedish capital lies far in the north but winters are surprisingly moderate here compared to other places this far in the north, for instance in North America. The gulf stream does its job so temperatures usually flactuate around 0 in winter. This might not sound perfect for Stockholm ice skating opportunities but it actually is!

Let me explain to you the unique ice skating conditions we have in the Stockholm area and why it is the best place to skate in the world. For great ice skating conditions we need to fulfil two assumptions:

Cold temperatures so lakes and the sea freeze
No precipitations so the ice is not covered by snow

Skating in central Stockholm, Sweden — *Winter conditions vary every year. In 2019 Mälaren in central Stockholm froze and we could skate in Stockholm city centre*

In Stockholm’s climate there is always a cold period when eastern winds prevail. During that time (usually coming in November and December), cold temperatures freeze the lakes and sea and it creates amazing opportunities for skating.

This moment usually doesn’t last long in other cold parts in the world because snow follows soon and the ice disappears under a thick white layer. On the other hand, snow is much less common In Stockholm and if it snows it often doesn’t last for a long time. Western winds show up, they bring warmer weather and the snow melts. This is good news for skating. Ice needs much higher temperatures to melt so the snow disappears and we can skate again!

These warm and cold periods usually alternate through the whole winter in Stockholm and that’s why we have the best skating conditions here. Another advantage of Stockholm is the large variety of water surfaces. We can find here small, medium and large lakes as well as the archipelago so there is also a new place to skate. Everything mentioned above brings the opportunity to skate basically anytime from the season start (usually November or December) until the ice melts (most often some time in April).

Skating on a mirror like sea. — *After rain and during plus temperatures lakes and the sea look like a mirror*

Safety first during ice skating

While skating is so much fun it’s also very important to do it safely. Swedish lakes and especially the sea can be very tricky and you have to know where it is safe to go. Luckily, Sweden in general is very good with safety rules and you can see it also in the equipment of any Swedish skater. Local Swedish skating clubs don’t allow their members to enter ice without:

Ice Skate & Boots – it would be difficult to skate without them 😉
Skating Poles – important tool to check the quality and thickness of the ice, also helpful if you have to go against strong wind
Ice picks– a necessary tool to get you out of the water in case you fall through the ice
Whistle – helps you to call help if you are in trouble
Rescue Lines – will allow your friend(s) to help you get out of the water
Backpack with extra clothes in waterproof bags

If you would like to buy your own equipment I recommend Alewalds store in Stockholm where you can get the best advice on winter equipment in Stockholm. If you would like to test the equipment first you can book a trip with the company I work for (booking below) and you can test the skating with me.

I also have to add that it’s necessary to have a skating partner. In case of an accident it is important to have someone who could help out. That’s why I always go on a skating trip in a company.

Skating at Saltsjöbaden — *My girlfriend Joanne demonstrates well the full ice skating equipment*

Skating at Siljan — *Joanne once more on an endless lake in Dalarna. The freedom you have on ice is amazing*

How is it to fall through ice?

It might sound crazy but I have never fallen through ice since I started to skate in the Stockholm area. I am always very careful and don’t give the ice the opportunity to trick me 🙂 I am mostly thankful to the skating poles which always help me to evaluate the thickness. I was curious though how it feels to be in the freezing water so I tried it out in a course.

I was supposed to jump in a hole in ice and stay there for three minutes. Then, I had to get out of the water on my own thanks to the ice picks. I have to admit I was a bit scared but the experience was not as bad as I had feared. It was actually similar to jumping into a freezing water after sauna, just without the sauna to warm up again 🙂 Luckily, the extra clothes are compulsory on such courses too so I changed into fresh and warm clothes and I was completely fine. Getting out of the water with ice picks worked very well too.

It was a great experience because I know now that in case of an accident it isn’t scary or a big deal. I am curious when my first fall through happens. I hope at least after seven more years 🙂

Swimming in a frozen lake — *Swimming in the frozen lake*

Try out skating in Stockholm with a guide

Of course, I started skating in Stockholm with guides. I had no idea what is safe or not. The guides give you safety because they have experience and they always go first on ice. If somebody from a group falls through the ice, it should always be the guide. The guests are 99% safe if they follow guide’s decisions and recommendations. I have learnt from many guides during last seven years and taken a special ice course in Stockholm and I am enjoying the time skating with both my close friends and clients while guiding.

If you would like to experience natural ice too, book a trip with The Green Trails below and I will take you to the best ice of the day and you will have an unforgettable experience. We guide both people who know how to ice skate already as well as complete beginners and we have the full safety equipment ready for you. Please note that we make the trips extra safe and no client has fallen through the ice yet. Ok, for except one guy who did it voluntarily. He was very curious about the cold bath experience so we allowed him 🙂

Skating guided tour in Sweden — *One exciting trip led us to the edge of the ice*

Book a skating trip with me below

I guide skating trips for all beginners, intermediate and advanced skaters. If you decide to book a skating trips with The Green Trails, don’t forget to leave a comment in the Special Requirements section in the checkout that you found this tour on my blog. By that, you will make sure that I will be assigned to your specific trip and as a bonus you will get a small present 🙂 Below you can see what all skating trips we offer:

Magic ball with a skater on a frozen lake

March 5, 2023 • 0 Comment

The Best Skating Locations in Sweden

Sweden has around 100 000 lakes and most of them freeze druing winter. It means a real ice skating paradise and we don’t even count the possibilities on the sea! Nobody will ever be able to skate even on a fraction of these ice surfaces. I am lucky to have tested more than 100 hundred of them during my 11 years in Sweden. Here are my tips where you can find the best skating locations in Sweden.

Before I start naming all the amazing lakes and archipelagos where I got the chance to skate, I have to tell you the most important thing: Every winter is different. Sometimes we have excellent conditions for skating all around the country, sometimes we have mild winter and there is less ice or we have too hard winter with too much snow which isn’t good for skating either. In general, Stockholm area is the best for ice skating. The climate is rather mild so the snow usually doesn’t stay long time but it’s cold enough so the ice freezes and we have great skating opportunities. I am explaining more about the unique ice skating conditions in Stockholm in this article.

As you know the most important now, let’s take a look where you can have the best skating experiences!

Stockholm City

The best winter I experienced in Stokholm was in 2019 when it was so cold that even the eastern part of the third largest lake of Sweden Mälaren froze. The lake flows to sea at Stockholm city centre, nearby Gamla Stan and the City Hall and it was all frozen! I will never forget our trip from Riddarfjärden via Barnhusviken, Ulsvsundasjön, Essingefjärden to Årstaviken. What a sightseeing on skates!

Höga Kusten

Have you heard about the High Coast area in Sweden (in Swedish Höga Kusten)? It’s a coastal region in northern Sweden that stretches for about 129 km along the Gulf of Bothnia. What makes Höga Kusten unique is its geological history. About 10,000 years ago, the land in the area was covered by ice sheets that were several kilometers thick. As the ice sheets retreated, the land slowly began to rise, at a rate of about 8 mm per year. This is one of the highest rates of land uplift in the world, and as a result, Höga Kusten is now one of the few places on earth where visitors can see the effects of post-glacial rebound in action.

Thanks to Höga Kusten history you can find there beautiful natural scenery, including towering cliffs, picturesque islands, and dense forests. I visited Höga Kusten many times before but my favourite visit was definitely in 2023 when the sea froze and we could skate all the way (with a short walk in between) from Docksta to Köpmanholmen. It was amazing to pass Skuleberget (the once nine-meter-high island which turned to today’s highest coastline mountain) and national park Skuleskogen!

The conditions we had at Höga Kusten don’t happen often since the area is known for a lot of snow precipitation but if you get a chance to skate there, don’t hesitate a minute!

Skating in front of Skuleberget, north of Sweden — *Skating in front of Skuleberget*

Uppsala – Stockholm

The same winter brought also the opportunity to skate on Mälaren from Uppsala to Stockholm which I did with my friends as a memory to old viking skating race Vikingarännet. What a pity this 80km race is not organized anymore due to weak winters.

*Wonderful end of a skating trip at Mälaren during sunset*

Vättern

The second largest lake in Sweden Vättern boasts of crystal clear water. Since it’s very deep, it hardly ever freezes all but its bays sometimes do! I had a chance to skate on a small part of the lake in 2021 and it was an unforgettable experience.

Siljan

The heart of Dalarna and its lake Siljan is not only famous for Midsummer celebrations. In winter, the whole lake usually freezes and you can make wonderful trips there. My trip in 2021 from Mora to Leksand was as long as famous Vasaloppet.

Karlholmfjärden

Skating on sea is special. Due to salt water and many currents it is definitely more tricky than on lakes and advanced ice knowledge experience is essential. If you dare though you are rewarded by wonderful trips among islands and cute villages. I made my favourite archipelago trip at Karlholmfjärden in 2023.

Saltsjöbaden

You can experience another great archipelago skating nearby Stockholm. Saltsjöbaden is a popular tourist destination reacheable by pubic transport in Stockholm and trips on Baggensfjärden and Erstaviken are wonderful.

Marvikarna

Sweden is a flat country in general. If you want to visit mountains, you have to head northwest to the border with Norway. It surprised me though that you can find though wonderful cliffs even in Stockholm area. I discovered them when I skated at Marvikarna lakes. It was a cool trip with wind in the back from Åkers Styckebruk via multiple lakes to Gnesta. If you want to try typical Nordic skating which combines skating and short hikes, this is a wonderful option.

360 picture of a skater on endless lake during sunset — *Long trip it Mavikarna was finished asfter sunset*

Ånnsjön

If you would like to skate next to real high mountains, you have to head to the north. Since mountains attract clouds and it snows there often, the skating season is usually very short. Lakes usually freeze already during October/November there and they are skateable until first snow comes. I got the chance to skate on wonderful Ånnsjön nearby ski resort Åre and it was amazing to skate with view over Jämtlands mountains.

Storsjön

You can skate at many places even if it snows because the municipalities clear skating tracks. The longest one is prepared every year on Storsjön in Östersund. The track is usually 30km long so you can enjoy new scenery during a whole skating day.

Norrviken – Edsviken – Brunnsviken

Let’s get back to Stockholm area. I will introduce to you the most popular lakes where you can usually skate from January to March. In the north of Stockholm it’s popular to make a trip on three different lakes with short walks in between. Try a trip on Norrviken, Edsviken and Brunnsviken. It’s easy to access these lakes by public transport and if you take a look at weather forecast in advance you can plan a one way trip with wind in the back from point A to B.

Skating on Brunnsviken with Swedish flag — *Brunnsviken is my “home” lake just a few hundred meters away from my home. Here I celebrated the first day of my Swedish citizenship*

Drevviken – Magelungen – Orlången

Similarly, you have great skating opportunities in the south. Drevviken, Magelungen and Orlången are Stockholm’s classics. There, I learnt also for example how it is to fall through the ice.

Bråviken

Let’s get once more on sea ice. Norrköping and it’s bay Bråviken offers often great skating conditions. In 2021, the conditions were there best of all Sweden and I made there multiple beautiful trips.

Ice sailing in Sweden — *You can also see ice sailers on ice in Sweden, like here at Bråviken*

Tyresta national park

Let’s end this summary by the unique opportunity of Stockholm region where you can go skate-hiking in national park Tyresta. There are multiple lakes in the national park and you can combine very well hiking and skating there!

More about ice skating in Sweden

Do you have any own tips on best skating locations in Sweden? Let me know! If you would like to read more about ice skting, I prepared a thorough guide how to skate safely. Take a look at my article here.

*Sunsets on frozen lakes are so beautiful!*

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