Mountain Archives - Page 2 of 5 - The Best Viewpoints

Hiker on top of Finland's highest mountain Halti

January 28, 2024 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Finland – Halti

Finland is a bit sad country when it comes to mountains. The north of Europe can boast of a unique landscape including deep fjords, large glaciers, high mountains and thousands of lakes. However, Finland can offer almost “only” the lakes from these. It’s Norway and partly Sweden who have the high mountains. The Finnish highest point Halti is only 1,324 m high and its peak is not even lying in Finland. The actual peak is situated a few meters behind the border in Norway and is 1,328 m high. It doesn’t mean however that Halti isn’t worth a visit. Follow this article for detailed information about Finnish highest point Halti including all practical information and maps for its visit as well as my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Halti from lake Gualosjárvi

Short description of the ascent: Short hiking but in a difficult terrain without a path
Essential equipment: GPS map or a printed map with compass
Best time to visit: June - September, suitable for winter climbs too, avoid months with short daylight (November - January)
Fees or restrictions: No 
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Olderdalen on the Norwegian side of the border; Kilpisjärvi at the Finnish side
Starting point: Parking lot at Gualosjárvi 
Height of the peak: 1,324 m 
Hiking distance: 6.6 km 
Time to ascend to Halti: 2 hours 30 minutes up, 2 hours down (time on mapy.cz below exaggerated)
Elevation climbed: 647 m
Water availability on the mountain: No
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Tromso 13 Saison ***** (6 stars maximum)

Two main routes to Halti

You can choose two different experiences if you want to climb Halti.

Route 1: From Finnish Kilpisjärvi – If you would like to have a proper Finnish experience, you will want to take this option. This popular route to Halti starts in the small village Kilpisjärvi located in the north-western corner of Finland. From Kilpisjärvi, you can follow a marked trail that leads to the summit of Halti. The trail is around 50 km long and can take anywhere from 3 to 5 days to complete, depending on your pace and level of experience. There are huts on the way where you can stay overnight. Alternatively, you can bring a tent. Along the way, you’ll pass through beautiful Arctic landscapes, including rugged mountains, deep valleys, and crystal-clear lakes. The trail is well-marked and maintained, so you shouldn’t have any problems finding your way. The hike can be challenging, but the stunning views are well worth the effort.

Route 2: From Norwegian lake Gualosjárvi – Another possible route to Halti starts at a beautiful lake Gualosjárvi. You can reach it by turning from the route E6 in Norway in Olderdalen at the village Biertavárri. The road is partly made of gravel so it can become muddy after heavy rains. After ca 30 km on this road you reach a parking lot at the Gualosjárvi lake. From there, head to mountain Ráisduottarháldi, and then continue towards Halti. There is no trail so don’t forget to bring a good GPS map or compass and printed map (if you can use it). This hike is shorter and you can take advantage of passing Norway by stopping at wonderful fjords on the way or visiting the city of Tromsø.

Maps of the hikes from Finland and Norway to Halti

My story of climbing Halti

I climbed Halti as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Since I was a bit under time pressure, I decided for the shorter route leading from Norway, the lake Guolasjárvi. This journey was supposed to take only one day.

Detail of Finland's highest mountain Halti — *Finnish flag on Halti waiting for our visit*

The weather played the most important role in the planning process. There is no trail to the Finnish highest mountain Halti from the Norwegian side so it would be advisable to go to the top in good conditions not to get lost. As the forecast for the following day showed fog, we chose to visit the Norwegian town of Tromsø near the Halti mountain instead. We did not regret that choice, because the weather was much better there and we could at least test Joanne’s new hiking boots.

Tent in a Norwegian fjord — *Tenting in Norway is a dream for every hiker*

The view over Tromsø from a nearby mountain (where you can get by a cable car Fjellheisen) was beautiful as it typically is in Norway. The view over fjords and high mountains around was simply amazing. I got a bit disappointed at the moment, that the Norwegian highest mountain is not in the EU. But what could be done?

Climbing Halti from Norway

We were looking forward to the Finnish summit where we headed the following day. The plan was to camp at the starting point. Unfortunately, there was some maintenance work in the tunnel the night before so we had to settle for camping by some random fjord. We didn’t really mind. Norwegian nature is beautiful simply everywhere. In addition to the view, nature served us a lot of raspberries growing right next to the tent.

Splashin water from a big wave in an Norwegian fjord — *I like random fjords*

When we woke up we were hidden in a deep fog. As I mentioned, the only problem with conquering the Halti mountain from the Norwegian side is navigation. There is no path to the top from Norway, so one must rely only on the map and on his own instincts. I didn’t want to get lost in the fog somewhere in the Finnish mountains, so we waited until the noon for the weather to get better.

Lake Guolasjärvi in Norway — *View over the starting point of the hike – lake Guolasjärvi*

It paid off. The path along the rocky terrain was a pleasant change from the beaten paths on the previous mountains. After the initial three-kilometer climb we found ourselves on a plateau with smaller peaks around. One of them was the Halti mountain.

Hiker and a view over Norwegian lake Guolasjärvi — *Reaching the plateau*

I checked my location according to the map and we marched to the mountain, which was supposed to be the highest point of Finland. Just to be sure, we cheated a bit and used a phone app called Mapy.cz, which confirmed to us that my presumption was correct. I highly recommend this app by the way. All hiking trails are perfectly marked there.

We were standing on the Halti mountain soon. The sad news for all Finns, however, is that the summit of the mountain doesn’t lie in Finland, but in Norway. The highest point of Finland is a few dozen meters away and a few altitude meters below. Fortunately, in this nice weather,we couldn’t miss it. It boasts of a stone-built pillar and a Finnish flag.

Hiker on top of Halti — *On top of Halti*

The last beer in Ylko’s life

As usual, I grabbed my summit beer to celebrate the ascent when one Finnish guy suddenly climbed to the top from the Finnish side. I wanted to make a toast with him but Mr. Ylko stopped me: “I don’t drink alcohol anymore.” He then confessed that he had decided to summit Halti to put an end to his drinking. He told me he had drunk 6000 beers in the last calendar year, and because his wife wanted to leave him, he decided that he’d rather stop drinking. Symbolically, he brought the last Karhu beer can to the highest peak of Finland. He poured the beer on the ground in front of me as a gesture of the end of his drinking period. From his determination, I felt that the resolution to stop drinking would end up well. I hope he has not been drinking since.

Beer Karhu at Finnish mountain Halti — *Ylko ready to spill the last beer of his life*

My tips for climbing the mountain Halti:

GPS navigation is necessary for the successful summit. There is no marked path to the top from the shorter Norwegian side.
I recommend high quality hiking shoes. You have to walk through difficult, rocky terrain.
If you have more time consider a trip to Halti from Finland. The return hiking trail is 89 kilometers long.
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Olderdalen on the Norwegian side of the border; Kilpisjärvi at the Finnish side

Happy tourist at the highest point of Denmark Møllehøj

January 21, 2024 • 0 Comment

All about Møllehøj: A surprising adventure to the highest spot in Denmark

Denmark is proud of having the lowest highest mountain of the whole European Union. Despite that, it’s very difficult to reach the peak. Why? Even Danish people are confused about their highest point and most of them don’t know which point is the highest. In fact, there are four mountains in Denmark where a sign claims it’s the highest one. In this article, I will explain everything you need to know before you “climb” the real highest point of the country – Møllehøj.

What is the highest point of Denmark?

Let’s start with the most important and actually a pretty complicated question. It’s funny because many Danes regard Himmelbjerget as the highest point of Denmark these days. The mountain’s name in English means “the heaven mountain” and it actually really looks like a mountain which is very unique for the Danish landscape. It also offers a surprisingly beautiful view (from Denmark’s perspective). All Danes regarded this place as the highest point until the end of 19^th century and many still do these days.

It is however 30 m lower than Møllehøj, situated 30 km away. You might think now that here the complicated story of the highest Danish point finishes but it actually just starts. Møllehøj is not easy to reach either. The problem is that there is another hill called Ejer Bavnehøj only 300 m away with a majestic observation tower. It was built in 1924 to celebrate the new discovery of the new highest point of the country. Unfortunately, it was the highest only until until 2005 when a thorough research and measurements were made. The research found out that the highest peak is Møllehøj with 170.86 m compared to only 170.35 m at Ejer Bavnehoj.

To make it even more complicated, there is one more mountain called Yding Skovhøj which is 172.54 m high. You might think: “Omg. So they changed the highest point for the third time!” Here, the story goes another way though. It is the highest but it was man-made. There is a Bronze Age burial mound on the top without which Yding Skovhøj is a little lower than Møllehøj and therefore isn’t accepted as the highest point of the country.

Important information for reaching Møllehøj

Short description of the ascent : Short walk 
Essential equipment: No special equipment needed
Best time to visit: All year around
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Food and drinks in a shop at Ejer Bavnehøj Accommodation: Den Hvide Farm (nearest), Fredensholm Annex (best review)
Height of the peak: 171 m
Distance to the top: 291 m (one way)
Time to ascend from Ejer Bavnehøj to Møllehøj: 5 min
Elevation climbed: 5 m 
Water availability on the mountain: A shop or a toilet at Ejer Bavnehøj
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: * (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Klosterbryg (fusion of an English Strong Ale and a Danish Strong Lager) **** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the walk to Møllehøj

My story of reaching the highest point of Denmark including personal tips

I visited the highest point of Denmark as a part of the European Peaks project during which I climbed the highest point of every European country. My arrival from Lithuania to Denmark was a bit sad. My plane landed in Billund, just next to the famous Legoland and that’s a dream of every boy. Unfortunately for little Jarda, I had another mission – to climb the highest point of Denmark.

*View from the mountain Himmelbjerget; Nikon 20mm f/1.8; single exposure*

We are at a wrong mountain

I didn’t plan to visit the highest point of Denmark on my own. I met my friend Alča and my girlfriend Joanne in Aarhus and together with Alča’s Danish boss we set out for our journey towards the Danish highest peak. The only Dane of our group took the lead and drove us to the highest peak. The problem occurred when I checked the map. We ended up on the wrong highest peak. My friend Alča and her boss thought the highest mountain of Denmark is Himmelbjerget. It makes sense. It actually really looks like a mountain and you have a nice view from there. All Danes regarded this place as the highest point until the end of 19^th century.

They wanted to start a picnic there to celebrate reaching the highest point but I had to be against it. I explained them the whole problem of the highest point of Denmark (see above) and we continued towards Møllehøj.

Tower at Ejer Bavnehoj in Denmark — *Tower at Ejer Bavnehoj; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Panorama consisting of 6 pictures in two rows + 3times bracketing*

Smelly Møllehøj

We parked the car at the second highest point of the country Ejer Bavnehøj which boasts of a huge observation tower and headed towards Møllehøj. There we found out that there is only a small stone on the highest peak and next to it you can find a large cow farm. You can choose then. Either take a view from the second highest point and its tower or listen to loud cow’s moo and enjoy a great rural atmosphere on the highest peak.

*Cow farm next to Møllehøj. I am the tiny blue dot; DJI Phantom 4 Pro; Single Exposure*

A pity that we witnessed the typical Danish weather with strong wind, clouds and occasional rains. We planned a picnic on the peak but instead we decided to have it at Alča’s place. Anyway, it was fun to hunt the highest peak of Denmark and I am glad we made it.

On top of the highest point of Denmark Møllehøj — *On top of the highest point of Denmark; Nikon 20mm f/1.8; single exposure*

My tips for Møllehøj

Read beforehand which mountain is the highest. On each peak they will claim that their mountain is the highest.
Be careful about the Danish weather.
If you want to stay in Danish country side overnight, book accommodation nearby Møllehøj at Den Hvide Farm (nearest), or at Fredensholm Annex (better review)

Hiker on top of Hungarian highest mountain Kékes

January 14, 2024 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Hungary – Kékes

Hungary is known for its lowlands and excellent wine but there are also a few high mountain ranges. Hungarian highest peak Kékes is even more than 1000 m high! With exactly 1014 m, it can challenge you for a steep climb by bike and it also offers a ski resort for winter activities. This article will give you all information you need before your visit including practical information, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Hungary – Kékes

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: 4 Évszak Hotel in Village Mátraháza nearby the peak; there are many food stands and a small restaurant on the peak
Starting point: Parking nearby the peak (see map below)
Height of the peak: 1014 m 
Hiking distance: 212 m 
Time to ascend: 5 min 
Elevation climbed: 18 m
Water availability on the mountain: Multiple small stalls and a hut on the peak
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Soproni klasszikus (classic lager) ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the short walk to Kékes

My story of reaching Kékes with personal tips

I climbed Kékes as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I first planned to reach the peak by bike but I lost three extra days in High Tatras due to bad weather so I only had 24 hours to stay in Hungary. That’s why I decided the easiest possible way to the mountain Kékes and I rented a car. The mountain is situated only 100 km from Budapest so it was not a long trip. I arrived to the mountain very late at night and I didn’t book any accommodation so Kekés became the first mountain on my expedition where I slept in a car.

Sunrise at Kékes

The parking lot was situated only 200m from the actual peak so it wasn’t really difficult to wake up early to catch sunrise. Since there is a deep forest on the mountain there isn’t really a view so I wanted to visit the observation tower.

Observation tower at Kékes — *Observation tower – Kékes*

I had to wait a bit longer until the tower opened. That means I still could sleep 3 more hours. The sunrise is very early at 4:30 a.m. during summer. I was woken up by arriving cars. I found out quickly that the mountain is actually pretty popular among Hungarians. Around 9 am the parking lot was already full and the mountain became busy with small stalls and many curious tourists. I became a bit sad that I didn’t have more time for conquering the Hungarian highest peak because there were many cyclists coming to the top. That must have been a challenge!

View from the tower on Hungarian highest point Kékes — *View from the tower on Hungarian highest point*

My destination finally opened too so I could enjoy views over the Hungarian countryside. I became mostly interested by the view of many wine fields at the bottom of the mountains.

Try amazing Hungarian wineries in the Eger region

I still had half a day before my night train to Romania so I decided to visit some local winery. I quickly checked the best winery according to Google Maps and a place called Szöke Mátyás Pincészet seemed to be the most interesting one.

When I arrived there I actually learnt that I am in one of three most famous wine regions in the whole Hungary called Eger. I quickly became very sad that I visited this winery by car. Tasting without being able to drink wine is one of the saddest activities, especially after I found out that the winery I chose won the Hungarian national wine competition in many categories. This is definitely a good reason to come back!

Hungarian wine Szöke — *The most tasty wine tasted on my expedition*

My tips for the mountain Kékes:

Come early to avoid crowds
For a view visit the observation tower and check its opening times in advance.
If you like biking, this is a perfect spot. There were many cyclists reaching the peak.
If you decide coming here in winter you can go skiing! There is a lift going to the top.
After visiting Kékes, visit one of the local wineries in the Eger region.

January 7, 2024 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Slovakia – Gerlachovský Štít

Gerlachovský Štít is a unique mountain in the European Peaks project. It is the only highest mountain of a European country where it’s forbidden to reach the peak on your own. If you want to climb it, you need a guide. That’s also why I was a bit stressed before my climb there. Is it a safe climb? It’s a challenge but the reward in terms of experience and views is worth it! In this article, I summarize all you need to know about climbing the highest peak of Slovakia including practical information, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Gerlachovský Štít

Short description of the ascent from Sliezsky Dom: Short but steep climb
Essential equipment: Climbing gear necessary - rope, harness and helmet
Best time to visit: June - October 
Fees or restrictions: Yes, it isn't allowed to climb without a guide
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Sliezsky Dom 
Height of the peak: 2655 m 
Climbing distance: 3 km (one way) 
Time to ascend to Gerlachovský Štít: 3-6 hours up, 2-4 hours back 
Elevation climbed: 1007 m up (one way) 
Water availability on the mountain: Only at the starting point
Difficulty level: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Prešovský medový ležák ****** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Gerlachovský Štít

There are several climbing routes to Gerlachovský Štít but the most popular one and the one which is used by local guides starts at Sliezsky Dom. There you can get either by a green trail from Tatranská Polianka or you can also order a taxi. The best idea is to stay there over so you can well rest before your climb. The climb starts at Velická Dolina after you pass the lake Velické pleso. From there, it leads directly up via Velický žlab. It’s difficult to find the route because it isn’t marked. This is another reason why a guide is a must. The climbing continues to the mountain Kotlový Štít and from there it’s already close to the highest peak of Slovakia via a ridge.

On the way down, another route is usually taken. It goes down on the other side of the ridge to Batizovské Pleso. From there, it’s a regular hike back to Sliezsky Dom via Tatranská magistrála.

Map of the best route to Gerlachovský Štít and back

My story of climbing Gerlachovský Štít with personal tips

I climbed Gerlachovský Štít as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. It wasn’t an easy task. As I already mentioned in my article about the ascent to the highest point of Poland Rysy, I wasn’t lucky with the weather in the High Tatras. How did it go?

Some mountain guides are crazy

My first attempt to climb Gerlachovský Štít was on the 29th of June. Because it is obligatory to climb the highest mountain of Slovakia with a guide, my father and I ordered one (price 380 EUR in 2024) via Spolok Horskych Vodcov (the association of mountain leaders) and set up a meeting at 5 a.m. in our village Starý Smokovec.

We hoped to climb Gerlach before 10 a.m. I didn’t like our guide from the beginning. The first thing he said was: “Why the hell do you have such a huge backpack? Oh and it is so heavy!” Obviously he didn’t really understand photographers or never met any. He didn’t even listen to me so I had to say goodbye to all my camera equipment. When I repacked we were ready to go.

Pine bushes on the way to Gerlachovský Štít — *The first attempt to summit Gerlachovský Štít*

Our guide took us to the starting point of the climb Sliezsky Dom by car. He distributed all the security equipment and we started to hike up. The first 400 elevation meters were just a simple hike. It is usually a good warm up for the subsequent climb. This day was a bit different though. It was very windy and temperatures were close to 0 degrees Celsius.

It was obvious that the climb will be very tough. We reached the starting point of climbing within an hour. When we were roping up, two other groups of climbers were just on the way down: “We climbed 200 meters up and there was a freezing fog and crazy wind so we didn’t dare to take a risk. Time to return.” It was obvious. The weather won today. We didn’t feel like risking it either. The only group which didn’t care and decided to climb was a group of four Polish climbers.

Waiting for the weather

What can you do in the mountains when the weather is bad? We hiked a bit along the famous hiking route Tatranská magistrála and then didn’t find any better plan than coming back to our village to plan the next days above a chilled beer in one of the nicest cafés of my expedition. We decided to go to an easier mountain first until the weather calmed down (read what happened on mountain Rysy).

A man in pine bushes under Gerlachovský Štít — *Hiking on Tatranská magistrála*

Three days later, it finally looked like the weather would be better. We ordered another guide and we met at 6 a.m. at Sliezsky Dom. The morning was cold but the sky was completely clear and, most importantly, it was not windy. Today is the day! Because of my previous experience I brought a smaller backpack this time. Our second guide didn’t like that one either though. He said that my backpack is still too heavy but this guide was at least listening to me, so we made some compromise in the end and I could at least bring up my camera, a small tripod and a few lenses 🙂

Climbing guide to Gerlachovský Štít — *Our second guide checking our equipment*

Climbing to Gerlachovský Štít is an amazing experience

After the initial hike we roped up again and we finally started to climb. Our speed was great so we passed several climbing groups. Both my father and I enjoyed the climb a lot. It looked like that our guide is happy with our speed too despite my heavy backpack. It didn’t take a long time to get up to the ridge. We had a nice view to both sides. Unfortunately some clouds were starting to show up on Gerlachovský Štít. Starting a climb at 6 a.m. during summer is late if you want to have a cloud free view over the High Tatras.

Guide showing the High Tatras after reaching the ridge on the way to Gerlachovský Štít — *Our guide showing us the High Tatras after reaching the ridge*

Too late for a view

On the positive side, the wind was still calm so we could easily reach the peak. We were the first ones to reach Gerlachovský Štít in the last three days so we could enjoy the view on our own. Unfortunately, half of the view was already covered by clouds. Anyway, it was pretty warm so my father and I could enjoy our peak beer in peace, while our guide enjoyed his peak cigarette.

Selfie on top of Gerlachovský Štít — *On the top of Gerlach with my father*

After half an hour on the top we slowly started to descend. We took a different route to Batizovské Pleso and from there we hiked back to Sliezsky Dom via Tatranská Magistrála.

*View at Gerlachovský Štít from Batizovské Pleso*

The climbing difficulty to Gerlachovský Štít is lower than expected

The climb itself wasn’t as difficult as I expected but I was very happy to have our guide with us. The rope makes it feel much safer, especially at some exposed parts and the guide knows the route very well since he has climbed the route more than hundred times before. I think finding the route without a guide would be a big problem because it is not marked at all. Book your own guide too if you decide to climb this amazing mountain. It is even forbidden to climb on your own anyway and if caught you will get a very high fine! And that is not fine 😉

My tips for the mountain Gerlachovský Štít:

Book your guide with tatraguide.se in advance and try to avoid weekends which are usually very busy.
Spend a night before your climb at Sliezsky Dom so you don’t have to wake up extra early from further accommodation at Tatranska Polianka
Spend some extra time in the High Tatras in case of bad weather so you also can get a second attempt for the summit.
The climbing isn’t very difficult. This mountain is perfect for well trained beginners.

View from the highest point of Poland - Rysy

December 31, 2023 • 0 Comment

Essential guide to climbing the highest point of Poland – Rysy

The High Tatras including Rysy are sharp and beautiful mountains on the border between Slovakia and Poland. After visiting the highest peak of every European country, I regard them even as one of the most beautiful mountain range in the whole Europe. Hikes in the high Tatras are wonderful and summit to Rysy definitely belongs to them too. Follow this article for all information you need before your visit to Rysy. I provide all practical information, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Rysy

Short description of the ascent from Štrbské Pleso: Hike with easy scrambling on the way
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear
Best time to visit: 15th June - 1st November (the route is closed during winter)
Fees or restrictions: Yes, the route is closed between 1st November and 15th June, there is a small fee at the entrance of the national park if you decide to climb Rysy from Polish side
Camping allowed: No 
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Chata pod Rysmi
Recommended accommodation before the hike: From Poland - Zakopane; from Slovakia -  Popradské Pleso hotel
Height of the peak: 2499 m 
Hiking distance from Štrbské Pleso: 9.6 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Rysy: 4-6 hours up, 2-4 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1201 m
Water availability on the mountain: Chata pod Rysmi
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum)
Personal rating of the mountain: ***** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Salus Tatranský pšeničný speciál 13 (wheat beer) *** (6 stars maximum)

What is the best route to Rysy?

From the Polish Side:

1. From Palenica Białczańska via Morskie Oko: To get to the start of this route hikers usually stay at Zakopane where you can find a great choice of accommodation as well as good food, drinks and entertainment. From there you can take a car or bus to the trailhead at Palenica Białczańska. The hike takes you through the scenic Tatra National Park, passing the beautiful Morskie Oko lake. Until Morskie Oko, the trail is very popular and the route can be crowded. An early start is highly recommended. From there, the trail continues to the Rysy summit. The final section involves a bit of scrambling and the trail is secured with a via ferrata. Check out map of the hike.

From the Slovak Side:

2. From Štrbské Pleso via Popradské Pleso:

This route begins in Štrbské Pleso, Slovakia, a popular mountain village with a lot of options of nice accommodation. The trail leads than through the picturesque Popradské Pleso lake where you could also possibly start your hike if you want to make it a bit shorter. There is a pleasant hotel where you can take a rest before your hike and it brings you an opportunity to start the hike to Rysy earlier than other hikers from Štrbské Pleso.

From Popradské Pleso the route is known for its beautiful alpine scenery, with several mountain lakes along the way. The final stretch to the summit involves some steep sections, including the rocky and exposed Pyramid section, which leads to the highest point. You can find a cozy mountain hut Chata pod Rysmi just 250 elevation meters under the peak. I highly recommend to stay over at this hut if you would like to witness a wonderful sunrise/sunset from the top of Rysy. Take a look at the map. We’ll take a deeper look at this route in this article.

Map of the best route to Rysy

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Poland – Rysy with personal tips

I climbed Rysy both from the Polish and Slovakian side. The Polish route is a bit more challenging and exposed but otherwise both of them are very beautiful. In this article I will explain to you the Slovakian route which I took during my expedition European Peaks during which I climbed the highest point of every European country.

After a warm-up at Sněžka in the Czech Republic I finally headed to real mountains. I very much looked forward to the High Tatras mountains because when I was born these mountains still belonged to my country Czechoslovakia. Now the Tatras are shared just between Slovakia and Poland after the Czechoslovakian state split in 1993.

While waiting for better weather you can climb another mountain

Bad weather in Slovakia made me change my plan for the first time during my expedition. I wanted to climb the highest mountain of Slovakia Gerlachovský Štít first but the weather was so bad for three days that it was impossible. Luckily it was not difficult to find an alternative plan. We just followed the simple rule: It doesn’t rain in pubs, cafes and restaurants so we tasted some local specialties and loaded some energy.

The weather forecast was not much better for the following day either but my time was running out so I couldn’t afford to wait any longer. In the end my father and I decided to visit mountain Rysy first despite an expected shower and try to attempt to summit Gerlachovský Štít later during better weather.

The perfect hike for beginners

The Polish highest point Rysy is much easier to summit than Gerlachovský Štít. There is a very nice path leading to the top and there is also a cabin called Chata pod Rysmi just 200 m below it. You can use it for a break with some snack on the way up or even stay overnight. This cabin became our goal the first day. Then depending on the weather we wanted to summit Rysy either in the evening or during the following morning to catch beautiful light on the top.

*Mountain Rysy during a sunny day (captured during our descent); camera Nikon D750; lens Nikon 35mm, f/1.8; Panorama consisting of 4 pictures*

Unfortunately, we had to choose the easier way up from Slovakian side. The way up from the Polish side is much more exposed and we didn’t want to risk any danger. The weather forecast was not good so we started our trip from Popradské Pleso. The big advantage of the High Tatras is that you can reach the entrances to the national park by train. This place was not an exception.

Hiking to Rysy from Slovakia

We took a lunch at Popradské Pleso and my father felt so strong after eating the local goulash that he accepted a challenge to bring some supply to the mountain cabin Chata Pod Rysmi. This cabin works on an amazing principle. Since there is no road leading to it the only way to carry food and other products to the local restaurant is on people’s backs. If you manage to carry more than 5 kg to the hut you will receive a reward – a hot tea. The cabin has been working on this voluntary principle since its opening and it has worked perfectly so far. I am proud of my father who managed to take up 5 kg of beer. I was happy with my 20 kg of climbing and camera equipment so I sadly didn’t help this time.

Supply to Chata pod Rysmi — *My father packing his 5 kg extra to bring it to the cabin; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; Single Exposure*

Snow surprise at Rysy

The weather forecast was correct! We were halfway to the cabin when a storm came. To our surprise it was not raining though but snowing. After half an hour the High Tatras received 5 cm of fresh snow. Very surprising for the 1st of July. Luckily the path uphill was so steep that we never got cold.

Just before reaching the mountain hut the storm finished and dark clouds disappeared. Suddenly, we got an amazing view over surrounding mountains. I especially liked the view from the local latrine. Amazing place if you need to poo.

*Latrine close to the cabin Pod Rysmi; camera Nikon D750; lens Nikon 20mm, f/1.8; Panorama consisting of 6 pictures + 2x exposure bracketing*

The cosy hut Pod Rysmi

Since we managed to ascent 1000 m and ended up in a small blizzard we got hungry. We ordered typical Slovak food “Halušky s bryndzou” and to our surprise the food was better and cheaper than back in the valley! This cabin is amazing!

Unfortunately, clouds came back while we were eating so we didn’t go up to the mountain Rysy that day. Instead, we joined a little party with Slovak, Czech and Dutch visitors. There was a perfect atmosphere. Nobody was checking Facebook since there was no signal. We played cards under candlelight since there was no electricity and drank chilled beers taken up by my father. As a bonus the children of the cabin manager played relaxing piano songs.

*Cozy atmosphere at cabin Pod Rysmi; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; Single Exposure*

Next day I woke up at 3:30 a.m. to go up for sunrise. When I came to the window though I found out that the fog is even thicker than last night so I decided to continue sleeping. We woke up later at 6 a.m. but the weather was still the same. We took an excellent breakfast and wanted to go up. The weather was worse and worse though so we ordered some mulled wine. This order made my slightly impatient father able to wait a bit longer and finally at around 10 a.m. the weather started to improve. Time to go!

Waiting paid off

It took only one hour to summit the peak. The problem was which is the right one? The mountain Rysy has three peaks- the highest, the middle and the lowest. Instinctively I climbed the highest (2503 m) one but when looking on my map I realized that it was not the highest point of Poland. The peak I was standing on was lying in Slovakia. That’s why I had to descent to the middle one which lies on the border with Poland and that was finally the correct peak.

Our timing couldn’t be better. The clouds disappeared just when we arrived and we had a wonderful view over winter on the peaks and summer in the valleys.

Panoramic view from Rysy mountain — *View from Rysy mountain; Nikon 20mm, f/1.8; Panorama consisting of 7 pictures + 2x exposure bracketing*

View over the second highest mountain in Slovakia - Lomnický Štít — *View over the second highest mountain in Slovakia – Lomnický Štít; Nikon 200-500mm, f/5.6; Panorama consisting of 5 pictures*

Then, we had to go back in the valley. The 10 km long descent to Popradské Sedlo was tiring but still okay. The problem was that once we received phone coverage again we found out that the weather forecast for the following day is perfect. That meant only one thing: we have to move to the starting point of the climb to Gerlachovský Štít which is an additional 15 km hike. Good that it went smoother at least thanks to this awesome guide. We made it to the hut Sliezský Dom late in the evening.

A goat in High Tatras — *Our guide on the way to Sliezsky Dom; lens Nikon 85mm, f/1.8; Single Exposure*

My tips for the mountain Rysy:

Recommended accommodation before the hike: From Poland – Zakopane; from Slovakia – Popradské Pleso hotel
If you decide to climb the mountain Rysy, stay at the cabin Chata Pod Rysmi. It was for sure one of the most cozy accommodations on my whole expedition.
Summit both the highest and the middle peak of Rysy. Surprisingly, the middle peak is the highest point of Poland.
Help the mountain cabin Pod Rysmi and bring up at least a bit of supply. If you feel strong enough, you can bring over 5 kg and you will get a free tea.

View at Snezka, highest mountain of Czechia

December 24, 2023 • 0 Comment

Practical guide to reach the highest point of Czechia Snezka

My home country’s highest point Sněžka is one of the most visited mountains in the world. Thanks to the beauty of the Krkonoše mountain range and its relative easy accessibility from both the Czech Republic and Poland, it’s a very popular place to visit. With its height of 1603 m Sněžka doesn’t belong to the highest mountains in Europe at all but you can still experience extreme mountain conditions there, especially in winter. This article will give you all important information you need before your visit including practical information, a map and my personal experience.

Important information for climbing Sněžka

Short description of the ascent from Pec pod Sněžkou: Easy hike
Essential equipment: Standard hiking gear
Best time to visit: All year round
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Food available on the top in the post office "Poštovna"; nearest accommodation at Dom Śląski or at Luční Bouda (further but much nicer, recommended)
Height of the peak: 1603 m
Hiking distance from Pec pod Sněžkou: 6.1 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Sněžka: 1,5-3,5 hours up, 1,5-3 hours back
Elevation climbed: 835 m
Water availability on the mountain: Many huts (Dom Śląski, Luční Bouda, Růžohorky) on the way
Difficulty level: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Sněžka 16,03 (IPA) ***** (6 stars maximum)

What is the best route to Sněžka?

There are multiple routes to Sněžka. All of them offer are well marked and aren’t technically demanding. You’ll find the difference in distance and elevation meters. Here is the list of the most famous routes to the top:

From Pec pod Sněžkou: This is the most popular start of hikes to Sněžka from Czechia. There are two trails going up. The blue trail takes you through the beautiful Obří důl valley, passing by the Slaski Dom mountain hut. From there, it ascends steeply to the summit of Sněžka. Alternatively, you can take a green trail to Růžohorky hut and from there the yellow trail to the top. Both of these trails have similar difficulty level and can be well combined on the way up and down to have different views. Take a look at a map of the round trip.
From Špindlerův mlýn: Starting in the popular tourist destination of Špindlerův mlýn, this route follows the red trail up to Luční Bouda where you can taste a beer from the highest brewery in the Czech Republic. From there, the trail ascends towards Sněžka via the blue and the final red trail. This route is longer but offers a more diverse landscape and is less crowded than the Pec pod Sněžkou route. Check out a map of this route.
From Horní Malá Úpa: This route starts in the charming village of Horní Malá Úpa. The red trail goes through the forest, passes a hut called Jelenka and the final part offers wonderful views since it passes the forest line. This route is less frequented, providing a quieter and more secluded hiking experience. Here is a map of the route.
From Karpacz (Poland): This route begins in the picturesque town of Karpacz in Poland. The most popular yellow trail leads through the valley Dolina Lomniczki and waterfall Lomniczki up to Slaski Dom mountain hut. From there, it follows the same red trail like on the way from the Czech village Pec pod Sněžkou (option 1 described above). Take a look at a map of this route.

All the above mentioned routes can be combined if you use public transport. You can use public transport to all the starting points and make an interesting ridge crossing which is popular among Czech and Polish hikers.

Map of the best route to Sněžka

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Czech Republic – Sněžka

I hiked Sněžka as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I started the journey in the capital city Prague and the journey took around 3 hours by car to the starting point of the hike Pec pod Sněžkou. Unfortunately, the weather forecast was correct this time. It was cloudy, later foggy and it was even raining cats and dogs during our last 3 km. The first big rain of my expedition had to come sooner or later.

Early start of a hike to Sněžka from Luční bouda — *Early start of the hike to Sněžka from Luční bouda*

Beer is a part of Czech culture

Good that we didn’t care much because there are many cosy huts in Krkonoše and most of them have their own breweries so there are plenty opportunities to warm up and get some energy.

Czech beer Paroháč — *Tasting Czech beer culture is possible even in the mountains; camera Nikon D750; lens Sigma 35mm, f/1.4; 2times Exposure Bracketing*

If you decide to visit Krkonoše and have more time you can actually do the whole “Krkonošská pivní stezka” – the walk with a visit of all ten breweries and become a proud Czech (I guess you know the Czechs drink most beer per capita). The Czech cuisine will warm you up for sure too. We decided to taste local blueberry dumplings at Luční Bouda chalet. We also slept there with hope for better weather for sunrise.

Typical Czech mountain food - Blueberry dumplings — *Typical Czech mountain food – Blueberry dumplings; iPhone X; Single Exposure*

15 minutes of luck

We woke up very early in the morning to catch a gap in the bad weather which was supposed to come according to the forecast. Unfortunately, the forecast was wrong this time and it was still foggy when we woke up. We decided to go up to Sněžka anyway. Maybe, the good weather will come later. And really. When we got up to the top the clouds just disappeared and we could enjoy 15 minutes of an amazing view over both Polish and Czech lowlands.

Selife from the top of Snezka in sunny weather — *15 minutes of sun on Sněžka; GoPro 6; Single Exposure*

The clouds came back soon though and it became cold. We decided to get back to our car in the valley. Just before leaving we also checked out the local post office and we got lucky. It was just about to open. Besides sending postcards you can also order a hot drink or buy some souvenir.

Staring into fog at Sněžka

Personally, I couldn’t resist buying a ticket to the viewing platform from the post office’s roof despite the bad weather and I am happy I did that. I think I made the local seller’s day. When I got back she was still laughing out loud. Is it weird to buy a ticket for an observation tower with a view of fog?

Selfie from the top of Snezka in clouds — *Amazing view from the post office; GoPro 6; Single Exposure*

Despite not having perfect weather, I am happy to visit our highest peak. Even though it is not as high compared to other European Peaks the national park around is beautiful and I am glad to taste many interesting beers on the way.

Aerial picture of Olomouc city — *Olomouc captured from a helicopter; Nikon D5100; kit lens 18-55mm; single exposure*

After Sněžka I came home for two days to rest before a tough climb in Slovakia and look: Isn’t my city beautiful? Don’t miss Olomouc if you ever visit the Czech Republic.

My tips for Sněžka

Learn to say “Ahoj”. A greeting which you will hear often from other (Czech) tourists when hiking in Czech mountains.
Participate in “Krkonošská pivní stezka” – Krkonoše’s brewery walk and try many interesting beers on the way.
Send a postcard to your relatives from the highest point of the Czech Republic. It is the only EU Peak from which you can directly send a letter.
Visit hut Luční Bouda with the highest situated brewery in the hole country

December 17, 2023 • 0 Comment

How to climb the highest point of Andorra – Coma Pedrosa

Andorra is a beautiful mountainous ministate between Spain and France and the Pyrenees belong to my favorite mountain ranges in Europe. In summer you can plan there wonderful hikes and in winter you can visit amazing local ski resorts or do some ski touring to peaks of Pyrenees. In this article, you will find all the practical information you need to climb the highest peak of the country Coma Pedrosa, a map and you can also read about my personal experience of ski touring to the top.

Important information for climbing Coma Pedrosa

Short description of the ascent: Hike with little scrambling at the final ridge 
Essential equipment: General hiking gear
Best time to visit: May - October
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: No
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Comapedrosa hut
Recommended accommodation before the climb: Multiple options in Arinsal
Height of the peak: 2945 m
Distance to the top: 6,9 km (one way)
Time to ascend to Coma Pedrosa: 4-6 hours up, 2-4 hours back
Elevation climbed: 1385 m
Water availability on the mountain: Yes until the crossroads at the final ridge
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: **** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Boris Craft Beer Andorra Golden Ale **** (6 stars maximum)

Description of the best route to Coma Pedrosa

The most common route to the peak starts at the parking lot at the end of the road in the village Arinsal. You will follow a well-marked GR 11 trail that actually leads via the whole Pyrenees mountain range. The first part of the hike is relatively gentle, allowing you to warm up and enjoy the scenery. After 3,5 km at an elevation of 2223 m you have a chance to take a break and turn left to refuge de Comapedrosa. Check out the opening times. There is also a nice lake called Estany de les Truites (Trout Lake) nearby.

From Estany de les Truites, the trail becomes a bit steeper but still goes via a nice marked trail. The views will become increasingly impressive as you gain elevation. After an additional 2,4 km you will reach Estany Negre (Black Lake). This is another good place for a break and to replenish your energy.

After passing Estany Negre, there will be a crossroads at an elevation of 2750 m. The GR 11 trail continues left and the trail to Coma Pedrosa turns to the right. The last part is in rocky terrain on the mountain ridge so be cautious. When you reach the summit, the panoramic views of the surrounding Pyrenees mountains and valleys will be your reward.

Map of the climb to Coma Pedrosa

My story of climbing Coma Pedrosa in winter conditions with personal tips

I climbed Coma Pedrosa as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. Before Coma Pedrosa I reached the Norwegian highest peak on alpine touring skis and it was exciting so I decided for a similar summit in Andorra too. Follow our experience where I was accompanied by two friends, Honza and Blažej.

Shopping in Andorra

Sunset over Barcelona — *We started our trip in Barcelona*

The nearest airport to Andorra is in Barcelona so we flew there. We picked up a rental car and drove towards Andorra where we arrived late at night. Before climbing Coma Pedrosa we needed to rent our skis. Our goal was to rent them in the capital city Andorra la Vela. At an altitude of 1023 m it is the highest situated capital of Europe. We realized soon that this city is a shopping paradise. Thanks to the low VAT (4.5%) everything is cheap there, especially alcohol and outdoor equipment. I bought several Christmas gifts in advance. It was so cheap!

Regarding the ski rental we were advised to get our equipment in another city – La Massana. There we found a small rental shop which was the perfect choice. We borrowed the newest ski touring equipment for only 22 euros. We packed all our climbing equipment and went to sleep early. Now everything is ready for tomorrow’s climb.

Time to climb Coma Pedrosa

View over Coma Pedrosa from La Massana after sunset — *View over Coma Pedrosa from La Massana*

The alarm rang at 6 a.m. at our cosy accommodation at Arinsal. After we managed to get out of bed we drove to the end of village Arinsal and parked our car behind a tunnel where the climb starts. We took a small breakfast – a great chorizo with some pastries which we had bought in a duty free shop the day before – and we were ready to go.

This time the weather was perfect unlike in Norway. Sunny, no wind and – 3° C. Let’s go. At the beginning of our climb, we had to tie our skis to backpacks because the snow has already melted at the low altitude. In the end we walked ca 1.5 km. Honza had a light backpack (32 liters) which is ideal for such a trip. Unfortunately, I didn’t learn from the Norwegian trip and I carried my photo equipment again. But this time I didn’t carry the heaviest burden. Blažej had a bigger problem because he is a snowboarder. Since he didn’t find any splitboard he had to carry his snowboard on his back plus an extra pair of hiking shoes for the whole journey.

When we reached a small river we finally crossed the snow line. Here the adventure began. We climbed up slowly with our skis on and soon reached the Comapedrosa hut which is closed in winter. At this point the sun showed up behind the horizon. What a beautiful day. I suddenly felt so warm that I decided to take off my pants and put on my shorts instead.

Modern back country skis are amazing

Skier close to Coma Pedrosa Hut — *Nearby the Coma Pedrosa Hut. Here we put on skis*

This time I really enjoyed the summit. It was so easy to climb up with these modern alpine touring skis. It was a big difference compared to the old backcountry equipment which I used in Norway. Only our snowboarder suffered. He had to keep going up on foot.

Two skiers climbing Coma Pedrosa — *Wonderful day on skis*

We passed a beautiful valley and we reached a lake below the summit after one hour from the Comapedrosa hut. It looked like a perfect camping spot but camping is unfortunately not allowed anywhere in the whole Andorra. We continued on skis until we reached a ridge. There the snow ended. We had to climb the last 150 meters of altitude on foot. It was still warm and there was no wind so I reached the peak in my shorts. Amazing March weather.

We took a break and ate some lunch while checking the beautiful views around us. The Pyrenees are very picturesque mountains, certainly nicer than Sierra Nevada in the south of Spain.

When we got back to our accommodation, we were very happy for a swimming pool to relax. What a day it was!

Enjoying the sun can hurt

Aerial view of the top of Coma Pedrosa — *On top of Coma Pedrosa*

The beginning of the downhill was perfect. No rush, only joy. We were back at the Comapedrosa hut in just fifteen minutes. Then the “fun” started. Slalom between trees on a steep slope on icy snow turned out to be the most unpleasant downhill of my life. Even Blažej with a board on his back was faster during the descent than Honza and I on skis. I am glad we managed without any injury and after 90 minutes we were back at our car.

When we got back to our hotel I started to feel my calves. Unfortunately, it wasn’t the muscles but the skin. I got sunburned again. Maybe it wasn’t the best idea to ski in shorts? I regretted my decision the whole night. The calves were in so much pain that I couldn’t fall asleep. I managed as late as after taking two painkillers.

Sunset at Coma Pedrosa — *Bye bye Coma Pedrosa*

My tips for climbing the mountain Coma Pedrosa:

If you are going to Coma Pedrosa in summer, spend the night at the hut with the same name and enjoy the night in the beautiful Pyrenees.
If you want to get to Coma Pedrosa in winter, beware of avalanches. Check out the current avalanche risk with local authorities. I highly recommend to summit the mountain on skis.
Andorra also offers excellent conditions for downhill skiing. If you visit the country in winter, definitely go skiing there. We spent one day skiing in the largest ski resort in Andorra called Grandvalira and it was amazing.

December 10, 2023 • 0 Comment

Your ultimate guide to the highest point of Spain – Mulhacén

Reaching Mulhacén isn’t an easy task. Even though there is no technical climbing on the way, count on a long distance as well as potential problems with the high elevation. Acclimatization is necessary. I myself was very surprised how long and tough the hike was. Follow this article for all necessary information before your visit including my personal experience. You will also find out why I felt like I was both on the Moon and Mars. If you are looking for a mountain guide, I will give tips too.

What is the highest point of Spain?

DISPUTE: Before I describe my ascent to the mountain Mulhacén, I must first explain the issue of Spain’s highest point. I was standing in front of a big dilemma. Should I climb Pico del Teide on the Canary Islands or Mulhacén in Sierra Nevada in the south of Spain? The goal of my expedition European Peaks was to ascend the highest mountain of every European country, but at the same time mountains that are a part of Europe. Since the Canary Islands belong geographically to Africa and since the area is an autonomous territory I decided to climb Mulhacén, although this mountain is lower than Teide.

Important information for climbing Mulhacén

Short description of the ascent from Hoya de la Mora: Very long hike with potential snow/ice fields on the way
Essential equipment: General hiking gear and crampons if it's icy - check conditions ahead!
Best time to visit: June - October
Fees or restrictions: No but guides recommended if you don't have experience with high altitude
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Hoya de la Mora and recommended accommodation Inside Plaza Sierra Nevada
Height of the peak: 3,479 m
Hiking distance: 13,9 km (one way)
Time to ascend and descend: 4-7 hours up, 3-5 hours down 
Elevation to climb: 1340 m up, 387 m down (one way)
Water availability on the mountain: No water on the way, bring enough supplies
Difficulty level: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: *** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Wasteland Wheatwine ** (6 stars maximum)

What is the most popular route to Mulhacén?

The most common route to Mulhacén starts at Hoya de la Mora. From there, it follows a ski slope to Pico del Veleta which is the second highest mountain of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. It’s also possible to take a shortcut to this point by a cable car.

Nearby Pico del Veleta you can find a cute refugio Vivac de la Carihuela. I used it to split the hike in two days and I highly recommend it to you too. It was an amazing spot to watch the night sky. The next day, the route goes down a bit and then continues around the small lake Laguna de la Caldera and at the end goes steeply up to Pico de Mulhacén.

Be aware that hiking to Mulhacén is at very high elevation and acclimatization is recommended. If you don’t have many experiences with high mountains, I recommend a local guide.

Map of the climb of Mulhacén from Hoya de la Mora

My story of climbing the highest mountain of Spain – Mulhacén

I climbed Mulhacén as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. My journey to Mulhacén started in Salamanca, where I returned my car on the road from Portugal. After the excellent Spanish motorways, I was impressed by another mode of transport. I had to get from the very northwest of Spain to Málaga in the southeast across the whole country. The journey was over 700 km but thanks to the Spanish high-speed rail the journey took only 5 hours and 20 minutes, including two transfers. Simply amazing. Can we build trains like this across the whole Europe, please?

Surprisingly cold Spain

After a busy day when I got up at sunrise in Portugal, drove halfway through Portugal by car and still got to the south of Spain by train in the evening, I decided to relax for two days on the beach in Málaga. I did not choose the best destination because the beach in the city was dirty. In addition, I found out that I arrived to Málaga during the coldest summer in the last few decades. When I went to the beach, I didn’t even go for a swim because it felt cold and dirty. I rather stayed in my sweater.

Sunrise at a beach in Málaga — *The cold beach in Málaga*

Instead of bathing, I chose to relax by consuming Spanish delicacies. For breakfast, I tasted churros with chocolate, a Spanish omelet for lunch, and a luxurious Spanish serrano ham for dinner. My gastronomic day ended up by visiting three bars serving the best sangria in town, tinto de verrano and a local dry cider. A good way to load energy for the next mountain.

But I’m not a food blogger, so let’s focus on what followed. I borrowed a car and headed to my 18th peak. The starting point of the hike is not far from Málaga. In 1.5 hours I arrived to the ski resort Pradollano in the Sierra Nevada mountains. I parked the car in Hoya de la Mora, the best spot to start.

Spend a night at Bivouac Carihuela

The first part of the trail runs right next to the ski lifts and ski slopes. It leads to Spain’s second highest mountain, called Pico Veleta. My goal was to sleep nearby this mountain in a smaller shelter called Bivouac Carihuela and go to the top of Mulhacén early in the morning. Unfortunately, I did not completely properly estimate the length of the initial hike. From the parking lot I thought I’d be up in an hour but it took much longer so I arrived after dark. It’s a shame because the sunset was amazing. The red sun together with the reddish-tinted soil created an amazing spectacle. I felt like I was on Mars. What a pity I did not use my camera and decided to get to the cottage as quickly as possible instead. Now, I have to come back one day just because of this Mars picture!

View at city of Granada from the mountains during blue hour — *Arriving to Bivouac Carihuela late had at least one advantage. I could see shining Granada*

Fiesta or siesta?

When I reached the refuge, I was surprised. Everyone was asleep. What happened to the famous Spanish fiesta? Did the Spaniards get tired of the hike so that they fell asleep at 10 pm? However, when I started to unpack my sleeping bag to sleep, two younger tourists Alejandro and Pablo got up and asked me: “We can’t sleep. Do you wanna join us for a few beers?” I was not really tired so I nodded.

It showed up that they were having a big headache, probably due to high-altitude illness. It’s not a surprise. Pico del Veleta is 3,398 m high. Based on my previous experience I recommended them: “If you feel a big headache you should actually descent down a few hundred meters. You can sleep in another shelter close to the starting point of the hike. You will feel better.” However, the Spanish teenagers didn’t listen and came up with their own solution. They opened their beers and started to smoke. Neither did they refuse my plum brandy. After a while, they surprisingly told me they feel much better and after our little party they slept like babies (not the crying ones).

Three friends taking a beer at Bivouac Carihuela — *A little party never killed nobody*

Hiking on the moon

I didn’t take the fiesta so seriously so I was able to get up at 4:30 in the morning. Unfortunately, my new friends weren’t able to do that. Their excitement to join me disappeared somehow. According to the map, it looked like the top is just two hours far so I didn’t spend much time having breakfast and decided to go. Shining stars were leading me to Mulhacén.

I was surprised by the large amount of snow on the way. Arguably, the last winter was as strong as this summer was weak in Spain (this was later confirmed by a local mountain guide. There was much more snow during this time of the year than usually). I would actually be happy having crampons with me when crossing some snow parts. Who would have expected that?

The road wasn’t interesting and Mulhacén was still far away. I actually felt like I was on the moon this time. A large black inhospitable environment with no vegetation. If you walk on your own in such an environment and in darkness it is difficult to find motivation to go fast. I was slow and due to my low speed I came late to the top, one hour after the sunrise.

Frozen climber taking a selfie at Mulhacén mountain — *The freezing top of Spain – Mulhacén*

Freezing on top of Mulhacén

I spent only a short time on the peak. It was really cold. It became the coldest mountain I visited on my trip so far. Even the famous hot Spanish sun didn’t warm me up. After a classic half-hour photo shoot I headed back to the car. The journey back seemed to be even longer, but I was in no hurry. I stopped several times on the way and enjoyed the awakening nature. When I reached the shelter Pablo and Alejandro were still sleeping.

I planned a few extra days for Spain because I had never been to Andalusia before. I stayed a day in Granada where I was mostly amazed by local tapas which I got always for free when I ordered a drink. All in all I paid 6 euros for three drinks and I got amazing food along with my order. This kind of service could work everywhere. I had also a perfect view over Alhambra from my accommodation.

Fortress Alhambra during sunrise — *The famous palace and fortress Alhambra built in 889*

Famous hike at Caminito del Rey

One day later, I decided to check the famous most dangerous trail in the world – Caminito del Rey. The walkway is built height 100m above a deep canyon. Previously, the trail was opened only for adrenaline sportsmen who could use via ferrata. However, after several accidents it was closed and today there is a safe path for all tourists. I was a bit disappointed how touristic this trail is but it was still worth to see. An amazing canyon.

The last place which I visited was the city of Ronda. It lies on two cliffs linked by a famous stone bridge and I liked it a lot because there were a lot less tourists. Then I just continued back to the airport in Málaga to fly for the next peak.

I thought I will have time for swimming before my flight. However, I was late with car return so I had to skip it. Therefore, I think I became the first tourist who came to Spain for a week and didn’t go for a swim.

My tips for the mountain Mulhacén:

I recommend to split the hike in two days, with an overnight stay at the shelter Bivouac Carihuela which lies very close to Pico del Veleta, the second highest point of continental Spain.
If you feel altitude sickness, descend down and try the summit one day later.
Don’t summit this peak on your own. The hike is very long and some tricky snow crossings can be found on the way.
Enjoy being in the universe. If you manage to see sunrise/sunset you will feel like you are on Mars. If you walk at night in the mountains you will feel like you are on the moon.
To start the hike without stress, I recommend nearby accommodation at Hoya de la Mora Inside Plaza Sierra Nevada

View over the highest mountain of mainland Portugal - Torre

December 3, 2023 • 0 Comment

All you need to know about the highest point of Portugal – Torre

Portugal’s highest mountain Torre is located in the northeastern part of the country near the Spanish border. Torre is very unique because it can “boast” of the heaviest traffic on any European highest point. Portuguese builders “honored” the mountain by building a roundabout on the actual highest point. It is a bit disappointing to get there since there are even ruins of old radars around. However, there is so much to explore around so I was very glad to visit the Portuguese mountains. This article will give you all necessary tips to visit Torre and its wonderful surrounding mountains and villages.

What is the highest point of Portugal?

DISPUTE: Before I start telling my story about Torre I have to explain why I selected this mountain as the highest point of Portugal in my project European Peaks (my climb of the highest peak of every European country). Torre is the highest point of mainland Portugal but there is also mountain Pico located in the Azores islands, which is 2,351 m high. However, since the Azores are an autonomous territory with its own government (similar to the “Danish” Faeroe islands), I don’t regard it as the highest point of Portugal.

Important information of the highest point of Portugal – Torre

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Guided tour: Yes, available from a local guide in the city Covilha
Fees or restrictions: No
Camping allowed: Yes
Nearest accommodation: HI Serra da Estrela - Pousada de Juventude in the village Penhas da Saúde
Nearest food supply: There is a restaurant and a shop at Torre
Height of the peak: 1,993 m
Time to ascend to Torre: 0 min
Hiking distance: 0 m 
Elevation climbed: 0 m
Water availability on the mountain: There is a restaurant and a shop at Torre
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum)  
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak:  Black Super Bock  *** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the position of Torre

My story of reaching Torre with personal tips

I climbed Torre as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. My trip to Portugal started in Madrid because all other flights from Malta were insanely expensive. My plan was to take a train to Guarda, a city at the foothills of the Serra de Estrela mountains but the only daily train was unfortunately fully booked. I found out that this train is very popular with Eurail/Interrail travelers so it was fully booked for the whole following week.

Aerial view of the highest point of Portugal - Torre — *The roundabout on Torre*

I had to find a different solution then and I found a good alternative. I took a train to the city Salamanca which was closest to the Portuguese border and I rented a car there to continue. After I reached the city Guarda by car, I took a small dinner – a great piglet. I also bought a bottle of port wine for the evening and set out for the trip to the highest mountain Torre.

Torre “boasts of” a roundabout

I got to the top just before sunset. The climb was not demanding at all because, as I mentioned, there is a road to the top with even a roundabout on the actual peak. I was lucky. The view was beautiful, because I was above the clouds. It’s good that this great weather diverted my attention. Otherwise, the Portuguese mountain is quite tasteless. At the very top, besides the aforementioned roundabout, the Portuguese also built two large satellites, which no one cares about these days. The only thing that seemed to be functional was the local ski lift heading to the top. Obviously there must be a lot of snow in winter. In the middle of August, there were still several snow spots on the slope.

Sunset above the clouds on mountain Torre — *Sunset above the clouds on Torre*

The not so charming Portuguese highest peak did not kill my mood. I had a bottle of port wine made just 100 kilometers away in the famous Douro Valley. I found the best spot to watch the epic sunset above the clouds, opened the bottle and enjoyed the view. Unfortunately, the bottle of the excellent port wine was not bottomless so it was soon time to settle down in the back seat of my rented car and sleep.

A climber drinks a beer on mountain Torre in Portugal during sunset — *A climbed mountain without a peak beer would not be a mountain*

In the morning, I woke up a bit broken and bitten by mosquitoes, which apparently enjoy the local wet climate. It was definitely a mistake to leave a window in the car half-open. Luckily, another nice sunrise woke me up and made me explore the mountain area.

Portugese hidden gems

Amazing hidden gem of Portugal - the village Piodao — *Amazing hidden gem of Portugal – the village Piodao*

Aerial image of an amazing hidden gem of Portugal - the village Piodao — *Amazing hidden gem of Portugal – the village Piodao*

Since I only had half a day, I set out on my way. The plan was to visit the lost villages in the mountains which I had read about several times before and which had really impressed me. I stopped subsequently in the villages of Loriga and Piodao. All of them were amazing. I felt like I was in Vietnam. The villages were surrounded by terraced fields with various crops and high mountains. Moreover, tourists have not discovered this area yet so it felt really peaceful.

Most of all, I liked the village of Piodao where a flock of sheep assisted me when taking pictures. I definitely have to get back here and spend more time. I was a bit sad I couldn’t stay longer. There was a wonderful hotel with view over the whole village and I just wished to stay for a night or two to enjoy the surrounding mountains and views.

Aerial view of cute village Loriga in Portugal — *Another hidden gem of Portugal – the village Loriga*

Tasting Port wine

I had to return the car soon in Spain again, but there was one more hidden gem which I could not miss. Just 100 km to the north, there is the river Douro which is famous for growing grapes used in the production of port wine. I found one smaller Quevedo port wine factory with great references.

When I arrived, I found that I didn’t choose the best time to visit. All the winemakers were having lunch. However, they were very accommodating and quickly came to serve me. In a second, I got 10 kinds of their port wine to taste. I tasted white, red and pink in several age categories. I learned the difference between Ruby and Tawny (Ruby is stored in larger barrels with no air access – the color and flavor doesn’t change much; Tawny is allowed to ripen in smaller barrels; both color and taste change over time) and I strongly regret that I visited this wine bar by car. I had to spit out all the wines after tasting. One of the saddest moments of my European Peaks expedition. Next time I will spend more time in Portugal!

My tips for the mountain Torre:

If you have time, consider biking to the highest point of Portugal from the city of Guarda or Covilha where you can get easily by train.
If you come here in winter to Torre, try skiing at a local slope.
The villages around the national park are amazing and even more interesting than the actual peak. I recommend Loriga and Piodao.
The valley around the river Douro is not far. I think you should not leave Portugal without tasting Porto wine. I tested wine at the Quevedo port wine factory and it was amazing.

The highest peak of Cyprus - Mount Olympus

November 26, 2023 • 0 Comment

Planning your journey to the highest point of Cyprus – Mount Olympus

Did you know that there are two Mount Olympuses? Not only the famous Greek mountain can boast of this name. You can also find a Mount Olympus in Cyprus and it’s also the highest point of the country. I was surprised how high the mountain actually is and I found out that you can even ski in Cyprus in winter. Unfortunately, this mountain has one major disadvantage as it is a very tourist unfriendly mountain. This article will give you the answer why. Besides that, it will tell you all you need before your visit of the highest point of Cyprus including a map and my personal experiences and tips.

Important information for visiting the highest point of Cyprus – Mount Olympus

Short description of the ascent: Short easy walk
Essential equipment: Nothing special, it's a short walk
Best time to visit: All year round
Guided tour: Yes, available guide from Yeroskipou, Paphos, Kissonerga, Coral Bay or Chlorakawhich
Fees or restrictions: You can't reach the actual top of the mountain as there is a military base but you can come very close
Camping allowed: No, but it's tolerated
Nearest accommodation/food supply: Trodoos hotel
Height of the peak: 1952 m
Hiking distance: 1,3 km (one way)
Time to ascend : 30 min (one way)
Elevation climbed: 81 m (one way)
Difficulty level: * (6 stars maximum) 
Personal rating of the mountain: ** (6 stars maximum) 
Beer on the peak: Kea Beer ** (6 stars maximum)

Map of the route to Mount Olympus

What is the best way to reach the highest point of Cyprus?

The easiest way is to get a popular guided tour with a pickup from cities/villages Yeroskipou, Paphos, Kissonerga, Coral Bay or Chlorakawhich. It will take you not only to the highest peak of the country but also to traditional villages, waterfalls, tastings and the unique nature of the mountaneous region of Cyprus.

If you are more adventurous, you can rent a bike and challenge yourself to get to the peak with your own power. The last option is to rent a car and make the trip according to your wishes as I did. See below how I enjoyed.

My story of reaching the highest point of Cyprus with personal tips

I visited Mount Olympus as a part of my project European Peaks during which I climbed the highest peak of every European country. I was very curious about Cyprus and since I didn’t make much research in advance I was looking forward to what I’ll see. The first surprise happened already at the airport. When picking up a rental car in Paphos I found out that I will be driving on the left. It makes sense. It used to be a British colony!

Romantic evening at Mount Olympus by myself

I had a romantic plan to spend the night at the famous beach Petra tou Romiou where the goddess Afrodité was born according to the legend. Once I reached it though I found out how hot and wet it was outside. I realized I would never be able to fall asleep there so I changed my plan and headed directly to Cyprus mountains. Since it was late there was no traffic and I was soon close to the highest point of the whole Cyprus.

At the height of 1900 m there was a different extreme. It was very cold there but I preferred that and I also had a view to the beautiful Milky Way. I think I selected the best place to spend the night at. If you prefer to stay inside, I understand. You can stay over in a pleasant hotel in nearby village Troodos.

Milky Way at Mount Olympus in Cyprus — *My sleeping spot under the Milky Way at Mount Olympus*

Zeus skiing slope

The other advantage of this sleepover place was that I woke up very close to Mount Olympus. I just had to climb the skiing slope called Zeus and I was on the top. Unfortunately it is impossible to reach the real highest point of Cyprus because there is a military zone with a large radar. It was even forbidden to take pictures there. Since there were no guards unlike the place where the main road leads to the top I took some pictures. Happy I didn’t end up in prison.

Summit selfie from Mount Olympus — *Illegal summit picture*

Short holiday on Cyprus

Since this mountain was very tourist unfriendly I didn’t stay long and headed back to Petra tou Romiou to get 10 years younger. According to the legend everyone gets 10 years younger after a swim in the waters where Afrodité was born. Since I didn’t become a teenager again I doubt this legend, though.

View over the Afrodité beach at Cyprus — *View over the Afrodité beach*

Then, I headed to the beach city Larnaca to spend some time on the beach before I moved to the next mountain. I took another amazingly warm swim in the local sea and got refreshed for my next mountain and my next adventure.

My tips for the mountain Mount Olympus:

Don’t come to the peak on the main road. There are guards and you will not be able to make a summit picture. Instead find the start of the skiing slope Zeus and climb the few hundreds meters up. You will have a better view without guards.
Spend the night in Cyprus mountains and watch the amazing Milky Way (avoid full moon period). I recommend accommodation nearby the highest peak at Troodos hotel
If you have time, rent a bike in one of the rental shops below the mountain.

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